20 Years Tracking & Hunting in South Africa

By Alessandro Cabella

 

“Moments like these are what make hunting so deeply meaningful – not just the pursuit, or the danger, or the kill – but the partnership with the land, the species, and the timeless rhythm of survival.”

 

A Legacy of the Land 

I remember it clearly: the light just before dawn in Kamala, near East Somerset. The sky – painted in tones of violet and grey – slowly gave way to soft streaks of pink, as if reluctant to reveal the secrets hidden in the bushveld. I was back in South Africa for my third hunt with Ryan Beattie of Dubula Hunting Safaris, and although I had walked this land before, something about this trip felt different. After twenty years of hunting in South Africa, the anticipation hadn’t faded – it had only matured. Experience teaches a hunter many things: patience, precision, and above all, humility. This wasn’t just another trip. This was a return to a place that shaped me, and I felt in my bones that the land was about to test me once again.

Gear Used on This Hunt

Rifle: .416 Rigby

Ammunition: 400-grain soft point

Optics: Leica Magnus 1-6x24mm scope with illuminated reticle

Outfitter: Dubula Hunting Safaris

PH: Ryan Beattie

Location: Kamala, Eastern Cape, South Africa

Target Species: Cape Buffalo (Syncerus caffer)

Shot Distance: Approx. 60 yards

Conservation Status: Least Concern (IUCN), with population control supported through ethical hunting

The Journey to Kamala 

Before arriving in Kamala, we had explored several concessions – each with its own terrain and tempo. Some were open and sun-scorched, while others offered shaded valleys teeming with life. Kamala itself, nestled near East Somerset, is a region of contrasts: thick bush alternates with rocky clearings, and tall grasses sway beside ancient trees like acacia and marula. In the early morning, the air bites with cold and carries the sharp scent of dew-soaked soil. But by midday, the sun bears down, the wind shifts, and the bush changes entirely – animals move into deeper cover, and the silence becomes thick, almost sacred. It’s the kind of land where your senses stay on edge, even when the rifle is at rest. We made camp with careful planning. Ryan, ever the strategist, mapped our movements around recent animal activity, fresh spoor, and wind direction. No shortcuts. No rushing the process. That’s something I’ve always appreciated about hunting with him—each decision is driven by respect for the animal and the environment.

 

Tracking the Old Warrior 

For two days, we tracked a particularly large Cape buffalo – an old bull whose massive hoofprints and wallows told a story of age, strength, and survival. The buffalo is a symbol of raw, untamed power. They’re not to be underestimated. When wounded or cornered, they become incredibly dangerous. But when observed with patience, they become something more: a mirror of the land’s resilience. Our mornings began in darkness, with boots damp from dew and breath misting in the cold air. With Ryan and a pair of skilled local trackers, we followed fresh dung, flattened grass, and hoof impressions along watering routes and feeding areas. The buffalo had circled back at least once, doubling back in a way that revealed its experience. He was testing us as much as we were tracking him. We remained silent for hours at a time, communicating with small gestures and hushed whispers. We paused to glass open areas. We read the terrain, the light, the wind. The .416 Rigby rested comfortably in my hands – its weight familiar, its purpose clear.

 

The Shot That Echoed 

It was early on the second morning when it happened. We had tracked the bull to a low rise overlooking a thicket where buffalo often bed down. The terrain dipped gently, offering natural cover. As the first light crept through the trees, the shape of the bull emerged – massive, deliberate, and unmistakable. Even at a distance, you could see he was an old warrior. His horns were thick and deep-curved, worn and pitted by years of life in the wild. Scars marked his hide – evidence of past battles with predators and perhaps other bulls. Ryan leaned close and whispered, “Forty-five inches at least.”

 

The wind held steady. The distance was perfect. My breathing slowed. I took position, steadied the Rigby, and focused. When I squeezed the trigger, the shot cracked through the morning silence – echoing against the hills. The buffalo dropped immediately. A clean, vital hit. No suffering. No second shot. We approached slowly. Even when they fall, Cape buffalo demand caution. But it was over. The great beast lay still. Up close, he was even more impressive – muscle, horn, and age carved into one formidable animal.

The Moment After 

The silence that follows a successful hunt is unlike any other. It isn’t triumphant. It’s reverent. We stood over the bull quietly, absorbing the gravity of the moment. I knelt and placed a hand on his hide. I thanked him. Not out of ritual, but out of real respect. He had lived a full, hard life. He had earned this dignity. The trackers and guides joined us, and together we processed the animal with care. In the tradition of ethical hunting, nothing was wasted. Meat, hide, horns – all accounted for. The story of that buffalo would live on, not just in memory or trophy, but in sustenance for many.

 

Campfire Reflections 

That night, under a vast African sky ablaze with stars, we gathered around the fire. The air buzzed with the sounds of the bush—hyenas laughing in the distance, insects humming like a chorus. We ate well, told stories, and shared laughter. But for me, the moment was still sinking in. I’ve hunted across continents. I’ve pursued everything from antelope in Namibia to red stag in Argentina. But something about South Africa holds me in a different way. It’s not just the terrain or the game – though both are exceptional. It’s the depth of the experience here. The connection between hunter, guide, and land feels ancient, sacred. And with Ryan Beattie and the team at Dubula Hunting Safaris, it always feels purposeful. Every hunt is approached with professionalism, ethics, and an understanding that we are guests here. The animals, the trackers, the bush – they are the hosts.

 

20 Years of Lessons 

Two decades of hunting in South Africa have taught me that the true essence of the hunt is never the shot. It’s everything before and after – the months of preparation, the hours of tracking, the split-second decisions, the lessons from failed attempts, the campfire conversations, the stories passed down. Over the years, I’ve seen seasons change. Herds migrate differently. Rainfall shift. Predators adapt. I’ve seen what happens when conservation is handled poorly – and what happens when it’s handled well. Ethical hunting, when practiced responsibly, supports anti-poaching initiatives, funds habitat preservation, and sustains local communities. This hunt – harvesting that 45-inch buffalo – was the culmination of years of growth, both as a hunter and as a human. But it wasn’t an ending. If anything, it renewed my sense of responsibility: to do more, to give back, and to protect the wild places that have given me so much.

 

Final Thoughts 

What we take from the land must always be matched by what we give. And as I look back on this unforgettable adventure in Kamala, I carry more than just a trophy. I carry a story of pursuit, partnership, and profound respect – for the animal, the people, and the place. This memory – etched in dust, smoke, and stars – is one I will revisit often. And when I do, I’ll hear the wind over the ridge, feel the weight of the rifle in my hands, and remember the stillness that came after the shot. A lifetime memory, made once again in my favorite country: South Africa.

Hyena Hunting in Kruger – A Once-in-a-Lifetime Experience

By Alessandro Cabella

 

Hunting near Hoedspruit, deep in the greater Kruger area of South Africa, offers something that few places on Earth can match: untamed wilderness, raw unpredictability, and adrenaline-charged encounters with some of the world’s most elusive predators. After landing in Johannesburg, I was greeted by my longtime friend and professional hunter, Ryan Beattie, owner of Dubula Hunting Safaris. We loaded the gear, packed the rifles, and began the drive northeast—leaving behind the highways and entering the African lowveld where baobabs tower, the mopani trees stretch wide, and the wild begins to speak. The road to Hoedspruit isn’t just a drive—it’s a slow descent into another world. A world where time slows down, senses sharpen, and the unknown always seems just one rustle away.

 

Camp, Bait, and the Stillness of the Bush 

Our arrival at camp was greeted with warm hospitality, cold drinks, and a sense of readiness. The staff knew why we were there. And more importantly, so did the land. The baits had already been hung. The trail cams had shown promising activity—leopard, hyena, even a large crocodile crossing near one of the waterholes. The night shift of Africa was active. We planned to hunt from a blind, positioned near a bait site where hyena activity had been frequent. Hunting hyena is not for everyone—it requires patience, nerves of steel, and often takes place under cover of darkness, when the bush becomes a theater of shadows. That first

Gear & Hunt Details

Rifle: .300 Winchester Magnum

Ammunition: 180-grain soft point

Optics: Night vision-compatible scope with IR assist

Outfitter: Dubula Hunting Safaris

PH: Ryan Beattie

Location: Hoedspruit, Greater Kruger, South Africa

Species: Spotted Hyena (Crocuta crocuta)

Distance of Shot: Approx. 85 yards

Time: 11:30 p.m.

Conditions: Moonlit, dry season, high predator activity

Trophy Status: Largest hyena harvested in recent years; full-body mount commissioned

Display: Trophy donated to Dubula Hunting Safaris Lodge for display and conservation education

night, we settled into the blind at dusk. The air was still and heavy, but the bush was anything but quiet. Movement was constant. A leopard moved silently near the bait—unseen, but heard. Later, the unmistakable glide of a crocodile slipping into the shallows. Every creak of the branches or crack of grass heightened the tension. We sat in near-total darkness, rifles ready, eyes scanning, hearts pounding. No shot was fired that night, but the experience was unforgettable. It was a reminder that in Africa, success isn’t always measured in trigger pulls—but in proximity to the untouchable.

 

The Night It All Came Together 

The second night was different. The air carried a strange electric stillness. Ryan and I climbed back into the blind just before nightfall. The bait was refreshed, and game trails were promising. Still, nothing in Africa is guaranteed—especially when it comes to predators. Hours passed in silence. Then, at 11:30 p.m., I caught subtle movement in the shadows near the waterhole. It wasn’t the silent glide of a leopard this time—it was the low, slinking movement of a clan of hyenas, drawn by the scent of impala. Their arrival was fast and focused. These were no scavengers simply passing through—they were hunting, and they knew exactly what they wanted. In the darkness, with only the dim light of the moon and infrared assistance, I steadied my rifle — my trusted .300 Winchester Magnum. The moment came fast. A large hyena stepped into the clearing, eyes scanning, powerful jaws visible even in the low light. I had only a fraction of a second to act. Breathing steady, rifle locked in place, I squeezed the trigger. The sound cracked across the night air—and in an instant, it was done. The hyena dropped, clean and final. All around, the bush held its breath.

 

Predators in the Dark 

But the night was far from over. Just as the adrenaline from the shot began to subside, we heard the low growl of a leopard, still nearby. The crocodile had not moved far either. The hyenas that remained scattered into the brush, but the predators that had been watching never left. We sat in silence, processing what had just happened. Not just the shot—but the presence of three apex predators, all within yards of one another. This was pure Africa—not staged, not arranged, not controlled. Just raw nature, as it has always been. The moment was humbling. Not just for the trophy I had earned, but for the environment I had shared it with. Few hunters will ever take a shot under the eyes of a leopard and crocodile.

A Trophy Worthy of Legacy 

The following day, I received news that made the hunt even more extraordinary. I was informed—no later than yesterday—that the hyena I had harvested was the largest taken in the region in years, a true outlier in both size and age. A rare, once-in-a-generation trophy. Out of respect for such a remarkable animal, I made the decision to have it mounted in full body, so that its presence—and the story of this hunt—can be preserved in a way that honors it.

The mount has been donated to Ryan Beattie and Dubula Hunting Safaris, where it will be displayed at the lodge for all hunters to see. Not as a boast—but as a tribute to the bush, the animal, and the powerful connection that ethical hunting can create.

 

Final Thoughts 

 

Some hunts you remember. Others become part of who you are. This was one of those hunts. A powerful, unpredictable, deeply humbling experience—now immortalized not just in memory, but in legacy. Unforgettable.

A Zimbabwean Buffalo Hunt

By Roger Moore

 

It was the first day in a 10-day safari in early September 2009.  My youngest son and I were in Zimbabwe to hunt Cape buffalo and plains game.  It was Jordan’s first safari and my first hunt for dangerous game.  Jordan took a very large Cape eland with spiral horns of 41 inches around the curves.

 

We left camp with PH Collen Van der Linden and a few local trackers.  We spotted a herd of buffalo and followed to see if one of them was a shooter.  We stalked as quietly as we could.  The ground was littered with a million dry leaves that sounded like walking on big corn flakes.  The herd led us through heavy cover for a couple of hours.  One learns that as the morning warms, the wind begins to swirl and you get busted as the game catches your scent.

 

We went back to the hunting truck and drove to a dry riverbed for lunch and talked through a plan for the rest of the day.  We decided to try a different area and headed to it.  We were quiet as we drove a little faster than normal and when I looked out my door and saw a small bunch of buffaloes, I asked Collen to stop and started glassing them.  There were seven or eight buffalo – all of which were bulls.  They were walking along parallel to us going left to right about 160 yards away.

 

I scanned the herd and the bull on the far right looked like a shooter.  “You’ve got to be kidding,” Collen said, “That’s the smallest buff of the bunch!”  I looked up from my binoculars and he was glassing a herd of about fifteen bulls on his side of the truck 180 degrees opposite of where I was looking.  I pointed out the ones I was looking at and he said, “You’re right, the front bull is definitely a shooter.” Jordan had my Winchester model 70 in .416 Rem Mag in the back of the truck.  I got out, had him hand me the rifle and turned around to find the buffalo stopped and looking us over.

 

I bolted a 400-grain soft point into the rifle and set it on the sticks.  100 percent of my attention was on the furthest right bull and settled the crosshairs on his shoulder.  Collen advised me to hold off since another bull was coming up just behind the bull I was focused on, and we didn’t want a pass through.  It seemed to take forever but when the bull behind the one I was set up to shoot cleared and I heard Collen yell, “Don’t shoot!”  I straightened up and looked at him as the bull I had cussed while waiting for him to clear, stopped broadside and turned his head to look at us just as Collen yelled, “That’s the biggest buffalo I have ever seen!  Kill him now!”

 

I had gotten the rifle back on the sticks and one-third up from his belly and in the middle of his shoulder.  As the trigger broke, the bull hunched up and began the run on three legs, typical of a good hit.  Collen yelled, “Shoot him again!”  As the buffalo continued trying to put distance between us, I hit him a second time about one inch from the first bullet hole.  He continued without even wincing.  I bolted a 400-grain solid into the barrel as preloaded and swung along with him until the rifle roared again.  That shot seemed to not even faze him.  Collen said, “Run one up the base of his tail.  Get him on the ground!”  With the fourth shot he went down.

 

With the adrenalin going full bore and we were walking up to him, we realized that we had walked in between the two herds of bulls!  On our left we had six or seven bulls out of which I had shot my bull, and on our right we had fifteen or more bulls now about fifty yards away!  To say we kept an eye on them would be an understatement.  We were sandwiched between twenty-five or thirty buffalo all of which were mature bulls!

 

When we got to my fallen bull, Collen walked up to him and kicked him in the rump.  The bull started thrashing around and got back on his feet!  Collen said, “One more time.”  With that shot, he went down again.  We gave him a few minutes before Collen walked back up and kicked him in the rump again. He began thrashing around again but didn’t regain his feet.  With the fifth shot up through his brisket, he was down for the count.  He gave not one but two death bellows before we went up to put my hands on him.  He had three .416s in his right front shoulder within one or two inches of each other.  The first two were perfect round holes but the third shot on the move had a rectangular hole about an inch and a quarter long.  I had been so focused on swinging with him, I never noticed a six-inch mopane tree that I had fired that third shot through, setting the bullet tumbling.

 

After pictures, Collen brought out his cloth tape measure which told us the boss were 16¼ inches front to back and the outside measurement was 53 ⅝ wide. My best trophy on the first day of the safari.

 

We caped him and sent the cape and skull to my taxidermist in Denver, CO.  I ordered a pedestal shoulder mount and never saw the horns again.  The shop went out of business and all the trophies disappeared.

 

Late last summer, I read Richard’s article on the replication of the kudu in the Afton house, reached out to him, and asked if he could arrange a replica of my bull from photos and measurements.  They did a fabulous job of crafting and copper plating him. 

Tim, the taxidermist, was more of an artist than a taxidermist.  If you need a replica of a trophy, reach out to Richard Lendrum at the African Hunting Gazette.

Ed’s Note

It’s incredible how some people could not give a damn and just close business and not apologize (at the very least) to their client about their trophy.

 

Anyway, we have a stunning copper-plated buffalo skull on display at Afton, this is seriously a monster. Kind of thinking we should have kept it!

 

Africa Keeps Luring Me Back

The Bergzicht team poses with my waterbuck.

By Aleen Kienholz

 

In October 2020, I was signed up for a photo safari to Kenya and Tanzania and then a follow-up hunt back at Bergzicht Game Lodge in Namibia. The Covid pandemic nixed my travel plans along with those of thousands of others, and worldwide air travel nearly ground to a halt. We managed a salmon and halibut fishing trip to Elfin Cove, Alaska that June, but masks and Covid tests were an integral part of it, and the lodge was running at less than 20% capacity. We took photos of king salmon wearing the ubiquitous blue masks.

 

Covid protocols were still in effect when I finally flew back to Namibia in late August 2021, but it was more of an annoyance than a danger. Frankfurt airport was very quiet and the lounges and most of the shops were closed. When I got back “home” to Bergzicht, PH Steph Joubert was up north with Italian clients. The father had already taken the Big Five and was hunting hippo and crocodile to complete the Deadly Seven, so owner and PH Hannes Du Plessis was my hunting and photography guide.

 

I had a prioritized list of species that I wanted to take, but anyone who has spent much time hunting knows that a plan is merely an outline and is not written in stone. We started out looking for a nice gemsbok for a rug and a skull mount. If you read my previous article titled If Only We Had More Wall Space, you could correctly assume that we had nowhere in the whole house to put a shoulder mount. Ah, and the gemsbok were skittish and consistently vacated an area before we could even think about trying a stalk in mostly open country.

 

Hannes stopped so that I could photograph an old warthog. He just stood there, so I took him as my first trophy of the trip. One of the effects of a bad drought between my first hunt here in 2018 and this one was that warthog numbers were way down. Efforts to control black-backed jackal numbers had enhanced the nesting success of ostrich, and their numbers were way up. No matter what we do, both action and inaction have consequences, but I love learning more about ecological interactions.

 

My time at Bergzicht was limited, and I did not want to take up too much of it in pursuit of gemsbok, so the second morning we set out for the number two priority on my wish list: a nice representative waterbuck. Along the way, an old blue wildebeest with interesting horns posed for us. I asked the trackers if he was a good one and they replied in the affirmative, so I set down the camera and picked up the rifle. He bolted before I could set up for a shot. Smart old boy. He soon disappeared into the heavy brush. The trackers set out to follow him, keeping in touch by radio, and Hannes and I moved to what might work as an intercept position. It didn’t work.

Even a bachelor impala can be impressive.

Eventually we found a small group of brindled gnus in more open country, and Hannes coached me on which one to shoot. The photo brown lenses in my glasses were so dark from the sun that I was having trouble with the sight picture through the scope. I did not make as good a shot as I normally would, and he ran off with the right leg broken close to the body. That rattled me and more shots were required, but eventually, the old boy was ours. I was astounded to learn that it was the very same animal that we had started out tracking a long way back. Those guys are amazing. The bull’s face was full of battle scars and his incisors were well worn. He eventually made a beautiful rug, and his painted skull hangs in our stairwell. A gemsbok was now OFF my hunting wish list.

 

The Italians had early success and were now back at the lodge. They would continue to hunt with Steph. On the third morning, Hannes and I again headed out in search of waterbuck. We had not driven very far into their preferred habitat before I saw a beautiful bull standing broadside to us. We set up quickly, and I got him in my sights, but I took those dark glasses off first. A gentle squeeze on the trigger, and he dropped in his tracks. Hannes approached him carefully with rifle in hand to make sure that he was dead, always respectful of those wicked horns. He was not terribly old, but was one of the best specimens ever taken on the property. 

Hannes approached him carefully with rifle in hand to make sure that he was dead, always respectful of those wicked horns. He was not terribly old, but was one of the best specimens ever taken on the property. Even though I had NO idea where I could put him, he was prepped for a shoulder mount. I am not fond of the customary tradition of posing with the quarry, but they use some photos for advertising, and I am happy to help with that. I prefer to photograph that experienced team of PH and trackers with the trophy animal. They do so much to make these hunts successful.

 

That afternoon we hunted on a different portion of the property and I was equally lucky to connect with a lovely black impala. He was all by himself and had worn horn tips. If he ever HAD been a harem master, his chances of ever breeding again were very low. He was past his prime, but he was so beautiful. He would also be a shoulder mount. I spent the balance of the afternoon with Steph and the Italians in pursuit of a waterbuck for the son. Along the way, I got great photos of zebra, giraffe, eland and kudu. I was having a wonderful time. We also checked a bait and trail camera that had been set up to lure in brown hyena. Both a leopard and a hyena were caught on camera well after sundown, dining individually on a kudu haunch. A blind was built nearby for the father’s evening hunt for the hyena. (That was successful, but that is the Italian’s story, not mine.)

 

The next morning Hannes and I were looking for red hartebeest. We approached one herd and then another, but they were as skittish as the gemsbok had been. The tracker again did a phenomenal job of discerning the hartebeest tracks from all the other hoof prints in dry soil. We would see them and then lose them, see them again and then lose them again. They finally settled down once they got behind a screen of trees over 200 yards away, but they were not relaxed enough to resume grazing. We waited. I had the scope positioned with a nice view of the edge of the trees. Again, Hannes had his binoculars on the herd and was advising me of their movements. When a lone bull stepped into view, I held over the vitals and pulled the trigger. Again, the animal dropped in his tracks. Like my wildebeest, this fellow had a somewhat funky set of horns. I am normally drawn to symmetry, but I really liked that old bull.

These blesbok rams spent very little time in camera range.

Southern giraffe cow and calf.

I photographed this sable bull again in 2024, and though his horns were then shorter, he was still impressive.

Now the only thing left in my hunting Bucket List for this trip was a springbok, preferably a copper. On the drive the next morning to another part of the property, we found ourselves paralleling a lovely quartet of gemsbok bulls well within shooting range. I just started to laugh. Of course, they were available when I was no longer hunting them! I am a strong believer in the vagaries of Murphy’s Law. Hannes stopped so that I could start taking photos, and all four bulls crossed right in front of us, one at a time, and then stood and watched us from light cover. One of my very favorite photos from the trip has one bull caught in the phase of his elongated trot where all four feet are off the ground.

 

As I had before, I planned to make all of my edited photos available for their advertising needs, be it their website or Facebook. I had asked Hannes’s daughter, Marie Louise, which animal she would must like me to photograph. Blesbok. That is usually easier said than done. When we found a small group that offered a few quick photos, I took advantage of them. Then Hannes noticed a lone copper ram standing broadside ahead of us. I again set down the camera and picked up the rifle. I had to shoot through a screen of grass, but the hit was fatal and the little antelope did not go far. I knew that we could find space on the walls for a shoulder mount that size. It was a warm day, so we took him back to the skinning shed and relaxed over a nice lunch and a glass of wine.

 

That afternoon they dropped off a tracker, me and my camera in a storage building overlooking a waterhole and feeding troughs. It took very little time before the area wildlife filtered back in to eat and drink. First it was the nyala, more of them than I had ever seen before. Then it was the tsessebe. The biggest shock was when herd of sable came in together. There must have been five dozen of them, everything from the year’s calves to young bulls and old veterans. The horns of the herd bull were so long that he had worn marks both through his mane and across his shoulders. Wow. I have made many trips to Yellowstone National Park for photography, but I told Hannes that those few hours sitting by an open window exceeded all of those experiences for productivity. I took over 300 photos and had more work to do, editing them on my laptop computer.

 

The next morning, we did photography closer to the lodge. Among other things, I got nice photos of white blesbok, a leucistic color phase. Bergzicht has four colors of springbok and offers a springbok slam. That morning I completed it my way, with photos. Then we went back to the storage shed. I was again sitting on a cooler by the window, with plenty of water and a big lunch at my disposal. It was HOT, but it was worth it. Many of the same cast of characters came by, plus young warthogs, impala, a few copper springboks, and a pair of blesbok rams. Like an old hunting dog, one was speckled with white beyond his white blaze. Before the tracker and I got picked up for the drive back to the lodge, a nice herd of red lechwe were approaching.

Again, I had over 300 photos to edit. It would not be easy to choose which photos to put into another photo book, and which to leave out. What a trip it had been.

 

Obed took me out for photos on my last full day in Namibia, and we saw a variety of birds, golden oryx (a leucistic gemsbok), black impala, roan, nyala, sable, kudu, giraffe and steenbok. Bergzicht also offers a masked slam, and I now had photos of all four of those antelope too.

 

 

I spend far more time looking through the camera lens than the rifle scope, but both count as “hunting” to me.

This gemsbok bull was momentarily suspended above the road.

Yellowstone has been compared to the Serengeti, but wild Africa is more diverse. Here is my black impala.

This is the first roan antelope that I ever photographed in Africa.

My funky red hartebeest made me smile.

Getting back home again required another Covid test clearance, and airports were still rather quiet. I did not book another hunt right then, but I went back to Bergzicht again in March 2024 so that I could photograph a lot of antelope babies, both on the hunting property and up at Mount Etjo Safari Lodge. Steph helped me to check off all six species on my hunting list for that trip, and I got so many photos that I had to create TWO photo books, one for each lodge. I cannot speak Afrikaans of course, but Google Translate is a helpful tool. The cover of my 2021 photo book says, Ek is lief vir Afrika. Dit besit deel van my siel…or “I love Africa. It possesses part of my soul.” And it always will.

If only we had more wall space…

A black wildebeest was my first plains game trophy.

I am strolling down Memory Lane again with a smile on my face. My six trophies just arrived this morning from my third hunting trip to Bergzicht Game Lodge in Namibia. Every year our house looks more and more like a hunting lodge. We like it that way. It has been a very gradual process. Our wall space and floor space are now so limited that we need to be creative on what we take down, what we put up, and how it is arranged. But let me back up a few decades.

 

I did not grow up in Africa, but it has always called to me. I still watch every BBC and National Geographic special on its lands, people and wildlife. It never grows old. I read Robert Ruark’s Horn of the Hunter before I even became a hunter. My Dad taught me to shoot as a young teen, but I became a huntress in the company of my husband and our friends when we were in college in the early 70s. For decades we hunted white-tailed and mule deer in several states for meat but not for trophies. One of our adages back then was, “you can’t eat antlers”.

 

We both got degrees in biology, and Ron was a self-employed professional taxidermist for over thirty years. Other people’s hunting trophies were therefore part of our income stream, but we did not personally engage in that aspect of hunting. Until we retired and moved to Montana in 2001, we did not even consider making trophy hunting for anything a priority in our lives. There were too many other things to see and do and places to go. Africa never called to Ron. He frequently said that if he could not go to Africa as it was in 1950, he wasn’t interested. Science Fiction time travel aside, that outlook made no sense to me. So, I went on my own. I took out a loan and did a photo safari in Kenya in 1992. That was well before digital cameras and smart phones, when the World Wide Web and personal computers were still technological babies.

 

By the time that I went on my second African photo safari to Zambia in 2014, I was at least in the digital age, and the experience was magical. So yes, wildlife photography also preceded trophy hunting. But I am inching closer to that transition.

 

We had our first trophy hunt in Austria in 2017. In May 2018, a couple of long-time bird- and deer- hunting friends were making a return trip to Bergzicht Game Lodge, and I tagged along with my old Nikon camera and my new 150-600 mm lens. I had no plan to hunt for anything. One of my friends was only after jackal and baboon on this trip, so I rode with the other fellow who had a longer list of desired plains game. On a hunting trip, a mere photographer accedes to the agenda of the hunter in the vehicle. That was OK too, but I saw so many things that I wanted to stop and photograph! One day I borrowed my friend’s rifle to shoot a red hartebeest that was causing problems by fighting through a fence with another bull. He was in a buffer strip between the hunting lands and the neighboring property that ran cattle. PH Steph Joubert put the range finder on him when he stopped running from us, and he was standing broadside about 300 yards away. Although we had all been instructed to hold in line with the front leg, I had hunted for over forty years holding just behind the front leg, and I defaulted to that automatically. It was OK. I took out both lungs and the cull animal died quickly. Steph and the tracker were both impressed with the shot. Now I had the itch to pull the trigger on trophies of my own. Years ago, I saw a quote about how everything in Africa bites, but the worst of all was the Safari Bug. It’s true. That is how it happened to me. I was still taking photos at every opportunity, but I also set my sights on shooting a black wildebeest and a nyala.

 

I know that many hunters go on and on about the make and caliber of their rifles and the particulars of the loads that they shoot, but to me a rifle is a tool. You just need the right one for the job, and the skill, judgment and patience to use it accurately. I have one rifle at home, a Browning .270 that was a gift from my father. I did not bring a rifle to Namibia, so on the sensibly obligatory trip to the rifle range, I was shooting a borrowed gun. I cannot even tell you what it was. I can only say that it was easy to use and did the job. It was time to hunt.

 

When we reached an open area with many black wildebeest in view, we left the vehicle behind and started walking single file through the short, dry grass. Steph went first with the shooting sticks, and I followed close behind with the rifle. I lost track of how many times I set the rifle on the shooting sticks only to have a solitary bull bound further away or into the herd, waving his glorious blonde tail and kicking up his heels. We would spot another loner and head in his direction, but I never had that extra fraction of a second to get the crosshairs on target and pull the trigger. Finally, there was a bull standing still and quartering toward us at about 250 yards. I held just right of center low on his chest to catch both heart and lungs and pulled the trigger. He did not go far, and I had my very first African trophy. That taxidermy mount now hangs in an upstairs bedroom. I give him a pat on the nose every now and then. A wildebeest in the bedroom? Remember, I told you we are very short on wall space.

 

Although eight hours a day might be spent hunting, that still left plenty of time to enjoy the meals and the ambience back at the lodge. Wild game featured heavily in the menu, and I loved that. We even had a chance to sample choice cuts from animals taken that week. For one dinner appetizer, Steph grilled blue wildebeest tenderloins over acacia coals, and they practically melted in your mouth. I also learned that he was quite a joker. He photo-bombed a picture that I was taking of my hunting partners at the dinner table before I even knew what that behavior was called. How was he as a PH? Great. He knew the property. He knew the wildlife and their behavior. He knew how to set up for a good shot. Experience counts, and he demonstrated that he had it in spades. I wish that he would write an article for AHG!

 

What I wanted next was a nyala. That species captivated me the first time that I ever saw one hanging on a friend’s wall…so beautiful. That herd was being built up at the time, and owner Hannes DuPlessis had very few that he was willing to have taken. He allotted two days for that hunt. We patrolled the hunting area in two vehicles, working to spot a suitable nyala or at least find a set of fresh tracks. That was also one of those times when a desired photo op flashed by before I could even say “stop, please”. We drove right by a pair of bat-eared foxes, the first ones that I had ever seen outside of a zoo. I was already thinking that I would have to come back some day, so I put bat-eared fox photos in my Bucket List. Before long Hannes radioed Steph to say that they were following a nice nyala that had just lost his status of herd bull that morning to a younger challenger. Once we were in the right area, we got fleeting glimpses of that bull, but he would disappear behind a screen of large shrubs before I could get the crosshairs on him. Eventually the trackers set out to follow him on foot, and we set up in what we hoped would be an intercept position. Suddenly there he was, walking in our direction. Steph wanted me to wait for a standing broadside shot, but there was no guarantee that it was going to happen. He could just as easily have slipped away in the cover once again. Lines of sight were very limited. As he kept walking, I put the crosshairs on his chest much as I had done for the black wildebeest, and I pulled the trigger. He dropped in his tracks. I was thrilled. As he was being set up for the customary photos of a successful hunt, I could not stop smiling. I was so grateful to the owner, my PH, and the trackers who had made that moment possible. I laid my hand on his forehead, a gesture of respect for the life that I had just taken. I stroked his side, admiring the markings. When Hannes checked his teeth, the wear on his lower incisors showed that he was an old guy. He had been in a lot of battles in his life. His hide was full of old scars plus the new marks from the fight that he had just lost. Back at the lodge, all of the guys kept asking me what I wanted to hunt next or offering suggestions for what they felt I should hunt. Kudu? No. I had too much affection for that regal antelope to kill one. Gemsbok? No. There was still the issue of mount size and wall space. Where could I put a big antelope with big horns? We had already been taking down artwork to make room for trophies from Austria. For the rest of my stay at Bergzicht I only took photos, but I knew that I had to come back some day. The Safari Bug had bitten me, and I was firmly under Africa’s spell.

 

I went back to Bergzicht by myself in both August 2021 and March 2024, hunting again with both camera and rifle, but those adventures and successes are a story for another time. I know that a lot of African hunters and guides frown upon hunting from a vehicle or within any size of enclosure delimited by fences. In my opinion and based upon my experiences, fair chase is not a “one size fits all” code of conduct. Is shooting a white-tailed deer from a hunting stand more ethical than taking an African antelope from a parked vehicle? That is a fine line. I do not condemn others for having different hunting goals or methods from mine. For me, hunting ethics have a core of following the law wherever you hunt, minimizing an animal’s suffering, and of making safety the top priority of every outing. One shot. One kill. It is not something that I have achieved every time that I seek to put meat in the freezer at home, or cross an ocean to hunt in another habitat, but it is true most of the time. Non-hunters don’t understand that the hunt is so much more than just the killing. It is the sights and sounds and smells and sensations that just make you feel more alive, and sharing it with folks who appreciate all of it as much as you do is integral to the whole experience. If I ever lose that twinge of regret when my quarry is lying dead at my feet, that animal that I both desire and respect, then it will be time to quit hunting. I am 74 and I have not reached that point yet. If only we had more wall space!

The face of the red hartebeest was scarred from fighting through a fence with a rival bull.

The photo of a young blue wildebeest scrambling to catch up to Mom was one of my favorites.

Another spectacular Namibian sunrise.

Hannes posed with me and my lovely old nyala.

This young kudu bull was heading for higher ground.

Silhouette of a secretary bird.

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