Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 23. The Ultimate Big Bore

For those big-bore shooters who always claim they are addicted to back pull, I have come across the ultimate rifle which should satisfy their every craving for brain rattling, shoulder-thumping RECOIL!

The rifle I have found is in a private collection, carefully and jealously guarded by the owner, so it is unlikely anyone will actually get the chance to experience a shot with this behemoth.

The gun referred to is a double rifle in four-bore calibre made by Rodda & Co almost 150 years ago. Rodda breech-loading double rifles in the monstrous four-bore calibre are extremely rare. It is rumoured that Rodda only made five of these four-bores and that these were made for an Indian maharajah’s private collection. Only four of these can be traced today, giving one an idea of how rare these guns are. Truly a collector’s dream.

The Rodda rifle in this chapter was manufactured circa the 1870s, having Birmingham

Proof House marks for view and proof dating to about 1868. Given the vintage, it is in very good condition, but then, because of the calibre and massive weight, these guns saw very limited use, especially in Africa. At a weight of about 25lb (approximately 11,4kg), these guns were not really meant to be carried by the hunter, but lugged along by a team of gun bearers until needed in an extreme case of last-hope survival. Any bearer on a safari used to carrying a 70-80lb (32-36kg) tusk or similar load would not have a problem carrying a 25lb rifle, but handing this heavy, unwieldy gun over to a hunter in an emergency would be awkward, as it would not be easy bringing these two weighty barrels to bear onto a fast approaching target. This could well compromise the hunter’s safety. Most ivory-hunters during this period preferred either a single-barrel four-bore or a lighter double rifle in eight-bore calibre.

The Rodda four-bore double rifle.

The majority of these four-bore doubles saw use in India for hunting tigers and elephant from a howdah mounted on the back of a trained elephant, but even this use was rather limited. This is also the reason that any of these guns found today are in remarkably good condition.

The gun in this collection is a back-action hammer gun with a Jones large grip underlever and the trigger guard extending along the pistol grip to the ebony grip-cap. Between the hammers along the top of the action, the long tang extends to the top of the pistol grip. The action still retains about 80-85% of original case-hardened finish. The browned Damascus barrels are attractive and show very little sign of wear and use. Having an extended doll’s head lock-up, the action is still as tight as the day it left the factory. The action detail has fine English scroll engraving, with gold inlay reading “RB Rodda & Co” in English script on the side plates. Along the barrels, also in gold inlaid English script, are the words: “RB Rodda & Co. Makers by appointment to HE the Viceroy & HRH the Duke of Edinburgh. London & Calcutta”. In front of each hammer is a safety lock which engages when the hammer is brought to the half-cock position. The broad rib is finely filed and has a standing express sight for 50 yards (46m), with two fold-down leaves marked ‘100’ and ‘150’ (yards?), while the front sight has a fine bead dovetailed into the rib.

The fore-end is a typical ‘splinter’ type and is fixed onto the barrels with a wedge key or locking pin and lug. The four-bore was the ultimate ‘stopping rifle’ which fired a ¼lb (1,750 grain) lead bullet in front of a 14- to 16-dram load of black powder. A conical moulded bullet of about 1 880-2 000 grain was normally loaded with 380-430 grains of black powder to give about 1 500fps and a muzzle energy approaching 6,000 foot-pounds!

Later, Kynoch four-bore loads for Nitro-proofed rifles were loaded with 70 grain cordite, but these should not be fired in Damascus barrelled guns made for black powder. Holland & Holland’s last four-bore was made for the Maharajah of Rewa in 1922. This was a Nitrofor-black load of 70 grain cordite firing a conical 2 000 grain bullet generating in excess of 8,000 foot-pounds of energy!

The Rodda double rifle, showing a four-bore cartridge compared witha .458 Lott.

Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 22. Useful Equipment for Shotgunners

The long-awaited day has finally arrived. You have your licence for your new shotgun and have collected it from the gun shop – and the season is open! You cannot wait to get out into the field and hunt game birds. You also have a cleaning kit, a game licence, a letter of permission to hunt and a supply of ammo, as well as the necessary eye and hearing protection. What else do you need?

Before we look at the basic needs for most wingshooters, just a reminder: buy the best you can afford and if you look after it, it should last a lifetime.

It is assumed that all potential hunters have a good supply of old denim or khaki trousers and shirts that can serve as “hunting clothes”. If not, there are many styles of outdoor hunting clothes available at shops and stores throughout the country. Camouflage patterns are not obligatory for game bird-hunting, except perhaps for pigeon and waterfowl (especially when the hunter is concealed and shooting from a hide).

Firstly, a good shooting vest or waistcoat is essential. Look for a practical and well-designed one, which should be available from most shops specialising in shotgun equipment and accessories. This should be a light waistcoat with enough room in large box pockets to hold numerous bits and pieces, such as a pocketknife, cord, a few snacks and energy bars, perhaps a pair of gloves, a few shotgun shells, a small torch and other items that may come in handy. It should also have a spacious inside pocket with a zip closure to hold your game licence, gun licence, car keys and smaller items such as earplugs. In addition, the shooting vest or waistcoat should have a large ‘game pocket’ at the back, with a blood-proof lining to hold a few game birds that you may have to carry back to your vehicle or camp. This will leave your hands free to handle your shotgun.

The next important thing to consider is footwear. Invest in a pair of comfortable and durable boots, just high enough to give some ankle support, especially when crossing uneven terrain or ploughed farmlands. Leather boots with durable soles and a good tread are ideal. Cared for with waterproofing leather treatment, saddle soap or Neatsfoot oil, these should give years of good service. When walking across the veld, you often get grass seeds, blackjacks, khakibos and other weeds and burrs sticking to your socks or entering your boots. The solution is to invest in a pair of gaiters which fit around and over your boots and ankles, helping to keep out all these irritating seeds and debris. These gaiters can be made of canvas, corduroy, leather or oilskin material. I find that gaiters which fold over the boots around the ankles and legs, and fasten at the back with a strip of Velcro and press studs, are a good option. They can be fitted or removed without having to take the boots off.

A cartridge belt.

If you are hunting in areas where there are wetlands or marshes, or perhaps doing waterfowl hunting around dams and rivers, a good pair of waterproof ‘wellies’ or even gumboots is worthwhile purchasing. Imported wellies, if available, are very expensive. A good option is a pair of polyurethane boots that are lighter and softer than normal PVC gumboot. These are supple and comfortable, reducing fatigue and providing excellent insulation because of their neoprene lining.

A comfortable, warm and waterproof jacket is a must for cold winter mornings, but this should also have spacious pockets and should be large enough to fit over a light pullover and shooting vest, as well as being comfortable enough to swing your arms when gunmounting without catching in your armpits.

Now, heading out into the field, you realise that you need more than just your pockets to store and carry your shotgun cartridges. The ubiquitous cartridge belt, which is designed to hold about 25 cartridges strapped around your waist, is one option. This seems to be an age-old tradition, but it has its drawbacks. Firstly, when loaded with 25 cartridges, it is quite heavy around the waist, somewhat uncomfortable and always seems to pull your pants down. What is more, the rims of the cartridges are always knocking against the stock of your gun and soon the wood begins showing numerous dents and dings, making it rather unsightly. A Payne-Gallwey-style cartridge bag with a hinged lid or cover that folds back, allowing easy access to the ammo, is a good choice. These are made in either leather or canvas and designed to hold 50-100 rounds. They hang over the shoulder from a strap and are quite comfortable for a day in the field. Another option is an ammo pouch, which also hangs from your belt and allows easy and fast access to ammo when needed. If you feel like only carrying a few cartridges for a short walk, you can get a small pouch which holds 15-20 rounds and slides onto your belt. This can be made from leather or canvas and rides flush against the waist, so that it is comfortable.

The next consideration is what to do with birds you have shot. As mentioned before, you cancarry a few in the back pouch of your shooting vest, but this also has some disadvantages.

One, two or three francolin, or one or two guinea fowl, are not a big problem, but if you start carrying more than that, you start to look and feel like the hunchback of Notre Dame! It is definitely not comfortable – and don’t even try to climb through a fence with this ‘hump’ on your back!

So what other options are there? There is a bird-hanger that fits onto your belt and has several clips or thongs from which to suspend the birds by either their necks or feet, so that they dangle from your waist. However, birds carried in this way are inclined to thump against your legs when walking and your trouser legs are always blood-spattered. The hanging birds also tend to hook and drag on bushes and undergrowth as you walk, causing you to stumble. Trying to cross a fence with birds dangling from this hanger is also difficult.

A belt attached bird-hanger.

I find that a game bag is the easiest and most convenient way to carry birds, leaving my hands free to handle my shotgun. My favourite is an old, well-worn leather bag with are movable blood-proof lining (a large, strong plastic bag will also do) which holds about four guinea fowls or six francolins. The weight distribution is more comfortable when carrying birds this way, as the bag has a broad strap that hangs over the shoulder and if you are traversing fences and obstacles, it can easily be slipped off and passed over or under the fence or obstacle. Game bags are available on order in the traditional classic style, made of canvas and leather, which are hard-wearing, comfortable and have a bloodproof inner lining that can be removed for cleaning.

A cartridge bag.

If you plan to do a fair amount of waterfowl – or pigeon-shooting, you might consider buying a camo bird hide to keep yourself out of sight. There are a number of good hides on the market. Some of them are rather heavy and awkward to transport and erect. I suggest a lightweight, pop-up hide which is easy to carry and get into the field.

If the hunting of waterfowl and pigeons appeals to you, you could eventually consider investing in a selection of decoys to bring the birds into shotgun range. The easiest ones to transport and set up are shell-type decoys for pigeons and geese. There are also decoys which stand on stakes pushed into the ground. Floating ducks and geese are great attractors for open water. If your budget will allow, there is a rotary pigeon device (‘pigeon magnet’) which works off a drive unit. It is battery-operated, with flexible rods on which the decoys are mounted and which rotate the decoys, making them look as if they are birds coming in to land and feed. This works well and brings birds from far out. Flapping shell decoys with extended wings and rotary wing decoys are also good attractors to bring birds into range.

You will have to transport your gun from home to and from the shooting field and may have to carry it in the field as well. A good choice for protecting and transporting a gun in a vehicle is a gun case or travel case. This can be purchased as a standard, lockable case made of durable ABS plastic with a foam lining, which is ideal for rough handling – especially when the gun shares space in a vehicle with hunting dogs and other equipment. Another alternative is a good aluminium case, which is also very strong and durable, although more expensive. If your budget will allow, you can have a handmade custom gun case in canvas and leather, or oak and leather. This is a rather expensive investment, and you may not want to subject such a gun case to the harsh conditions of hunting, but it does add considerable value to your shotgun.

Once the gun is assembled for hunting, you may have to transport it from one area to another. For this, a good gun-slip is ideal. These are normally made of canvas or leather and have lightweight padding to protect the gun. A broad strap allows easy carrying over the shoulder.

Over the years, you may find more items and equipment which will make your shooting more successful and enjoyable. There are many reputable dealers around the country who are hunters at heart and salesmen only by vocation, and can offer sound advice based on experience. They will not try to make a quick buck by selling ‘gizmos’ that you will never use.

I would also recommend joining a shooting association or club where novices can interact with like-minded members and obtain access to shooting opportunities.

Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 21. Shotgun Cartridges and Their Development Over the Years

Today most wing and clay target-shooters using modern shot cartridges show very little interest in the ammunition they use, apart from what they feel is their favourite brand and the ideal load for their specific sport.

To gain a better understanding of the development of centre-fire ammunition, we need to go back in time to the year 1850 and onwards, after the first breech-loading centre-fire guns became available.

Prior to then, from 1815-1835, gunsmiths were competing to get away from the flintlock. In 1830 the percussion cap, which was the intermediate stage on muzzle loaders, led to the development of pin-fire guns and subsequently opened the way for breech-loading centre-fire cartridges and guns. Thanks must go to Mr JV Needham, who invented and produced the ‘hammerless’ or internal hammer action that started the revolution in the development of the ‘modern’ style of ammunition. The centre-fire cartridge was designed.

In 1875, William Anson and John Deeley – who were both employed and associated with Westley Richards – developed and introduced the Anson and Deeley box-lock action, which was so successful in design that it has seen very little improvement up to the present day. This action was ideally adapted for the modern centre-fire cartridge. The action was less expensive and easier to produce than the traditional side-lock action, which was carried over from the days of the hammer and percussion actions. The Anson and Deeley action helped place guns in the hands of general shooters who were neither nobility nor landed gentry and could not afford expensive, handmade side-lock guns from top-name gunsmiths, but also wanted to get involved in the sport of ‘shooting flying’.

Side-locks were, and remain, more complicated to produce and are today sought after mostly for more expensive handmade top-grade guns.

The first breech-loading centre-fire ammunition was carried over from the days of muzzle loaders and used the traditional black powder propellant. When fired, these cartridges produced clouds of white smoke which sometimes obscured visibility for follow-up shots or even seeing the hits on targets. It was not unusual to see a shooter smartly dodge to one side to get past the cloud of white smoke in order to see the hit on his target. Soon there were calls for cleaner-burning propellant, which led to the development of Schultz powder. This burnt a lot more cleanly, producing less smoke and recoil, and was not as noisy as the old black powder loads. It became popular for its advantages to shooters. Further developments in modern smokeless Nitro powders led to more efficient and faster ignition, with more regular ballistics, less pressure and the absence of fouling, which also meant less corrosion in gun barrels.

Today cartridge manufacturers are continually striving to develop and improve the quality of their cartridges, with a view to more environmentally friendly components and consistent results. This is true of all the components which make up the modern cartridge.

The first step in the ignition process is the primer. Percussion ignition was first invented in 1807 by Rev Alexander Forsyth, a Scottish clergyman, but required a lot of refining. The early primers were very corrosive and could be unstable. Modern primers have vastly improved and have standardised on a 209-boxer type for shotguns which are largely non-corrosive, give quick and reliable ignition, and are well sealed and protected from contamination by moisture and oils, which are the cause of many misfires.

The following is a basic explanation of the firing procedure and sequence:

When struck by the firing pin of the gun, the primer should ignite, causing the propellant powder to burn and form a gas. This creates pressure, driving the wad and shot load up the barrel and, on exiting, causes the shot to spread into a pattern given by the choke selection, then on to the target.

Briefly, the modern shotgun cartridge consists of a brass or metal base, rimmed to fit onto the extractor or ejector rim of the action and chamber of the gun. The primer fits into this brass base. The body or case of the cartridge, which was traditionally made of varnished paper or card, is today usually plastic. The length of the cartridge body depends on the requirements of the gun chamber. This can range from 2½” (65mm) to 2,6” (67mm), 2¾” (70mm) and 3” (76mm). These are nominal lengths of factory cartridges, but exceptions are a shorter 2” (50mm) and a magnum 3½” (89mm), which are sometimes called for. The 67mm case was designed to allow the use of this cartridge length in either 65mm or 70mm chambers, allowing a slightly heavier load than normal for 65mm chambers.

Cut-away cartridge and wads.

Early cartridges all had fibre or compressed paper or card wads. Today the wad can consist of either formed or moulded plastic or biodegradable fibre. The plastic wad normally has a cup-shaped fore section with segmented ‘petals’ which hold the pellets in place and peel back and open as the shot column leaves the muzzle, releasing the shot in its forward motion to start spreading. This allows for a more controlled spread and pattern.

The fibre wad remains behind the shot load, acting as a gas seal and pushes it forward, with the shot column spreading faster on exiting the muzzle to create a more open pattern. The fibre wad is mainly used on game loads.

Most modern cartridges are enclosed with a segmented ‘star’ crimp at the mouth. Some cartridges can still be found with a ‘rolled’ crimp, but these are normally older or traditional loads.

As previously mentioned, with the trend towards environmental awareness, cartridge manufacturers have made great strides in the development and use of components that are ‘greener’ than in the past.

As a result of concerns about pollution of the environment (especially wetlands) caused by lead from shot pellets, cartridge manufacturers are now producing non-toxic shot using Bismuth, copper-coated or annealed steel pellets. These have a number of drawbacks, but research is ongoing. There is also a marked controversy in the claim that pollution from lead pellets causes problems. To date, no proof of this has been forthcoming, but it

is nevertheless wise to be proactive in this regard. For many years, lead shot had a 0,5% antimony added for hardness and this is now also treated by electroplating with either copper for hunting loads or nickel for clay target, small birds and pigeons. This reduces pellet deformation, keeping the pellets spherical to allow consistent patterns.

Pollution from wads has also been problematic, mainly in areas where high-volume shooting takes place. A number of game loads are now loaded with biodegradable fibre wads, which have a short lifespan once exposed to outdoor conditions. These wads are made from compressed wood materials, with paraffin wax as a binder to give added strength. Plastic wads are also a problem, especially in areas where they could be ingested by livestock. Research into the use of photodegradable wads, which have a limited lifespan when exposed to outdoor elements and sunlight, is ongoing. Plastic wads have a UV light stabiliser to give longevity, but photodegradable wads have this stabiliser removed or reduced, which allows them to break down into smaller pieces within a few weeks when exposed to sunlight.

Non-corrosive primers and progressive burning propellants are also the subject of continuing research in striving for more efficient and cleaner performance. Numerous overseas manufacturers, particularly in the UK, regularly select random cartridge samples from batches on their production lines and submit these for chronograph, pressure and velocity testing sometimes twice a day (morning and afternoon). Some have their own testing tunnels, but also send check samples to various proof houses. Some do tests of the loading machines for dosage rates of both powder and shot on an hourly basis. Velocity is measured at 2,5m and 10m from the muzzle and a ballistic analyser is used to calculate velocities. In this way, the quality of cartridges can be monitored and improved on an ongoing basis. Based on this research, UK and other manufacturers have a preference for single-base nitrocellulose powders in which the burn rate is determined by the surface area of the flake. For example, a larger flake area burns faster for light weight charges, whereas a smaller flake gives a slow burn used for heavier weight charges or smaller calibres where pressure build-up is rapid.

American propellants mainly use double-base nitrocellulose powder with an element of nitroglycerine added to it. This allows for a more energetic burn, but a dirty one, leaving residue in the barrel. An advantage of this propellant is that it is more stable in extreme temperatures.

The next time you load a couple of cartridges into the chambers of your favourite shotgun, spare a thought for the difficulties faced by early-day shooters and give thanks for the hard work, research and innovation that make our shooting today easier, safer and trouble-free.

Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 20. Understanding The Shotgun

New shooters being introduced to the shotgunning sport may find the many terms and techniques rather confusing, with words like ‘load’, ‘bore’, ‘gauge’, ‘choke’ and others bandied about by more experienced shooters without explanation. Let me attempt to clarify these terms.

The sporting shotgun is usually of three types: firstly, the double-barrel, either side-by-side (s x s) or over-and-under (o/u) configuration. Secondly, there is the single-barrel, singleshot and thirdly, the single-barrel, multi-shot, either pump (or slide) action, or auto- (self-) loader. Just to muddy the waters, there is also the combination, which is a shotgun barrel (or barrels) with a rifle barrel. These are more popular in Europe than in South Africa.

Most sport shooting or field sports favour the double-barrel, with the over-and-under design being more popular nowadays. The side-by-side version is more traditional and there are many shooters, especially the older generation, who still prefer this style. The side-by-side usually has a slimmer, sleeker action and is lighter to carry and use over long periods in the field than the over-and-under. These are ideal for waterfowl and terrestrial game bird-hunting.

Because of the barrel configuration, the over-and-under has a deeper, bulkier action, is heavier and is therefore able to withstand heavier loads or charges than the side-by-side. This allows it to contend with more sustained shooting volumes, such as done in clay target-shooting.

Double-barrel guns come in two main action designs. The box lock is a shorter action and appears more truncated at the rear, with its strikers, springs and working parts all housed inside the action body. Box locks are easier to manufacture and generally more robust. The side lock is more intricate and labour-intensive to manufacture, with its firing mechanisms and springs individually pinned to separate side plates extending rearwards behind the standing breech of the gun. These side locks provide extended flat outer surfaces to allow for extensive engraving, especially scenic engraving, making them a popular choice for best-quality guns. However, this is not to say that the box lock is in any way inferior.

A side-by-side shotgun with sidelocks.

An over-and-under box lock shotgun.

American sportsmen generally favour semi-auto and pump action guns for waterfowl and upland bird-shooting, but in the UK and South Africa, these are not readily accepted in shooting circles. This is mainly for safety reasons, as a double is visibly safe when the action is open, which is not the case with a pump and auto-loader. These have magazines which can normally take about five cartridges, but in terms of South African regulations, they must be plugged to accept only two rounds. Multi-shot pump guns are mainly used by law enforcement and security services in South Africa.

Just a point on safety: I remember an incident where a group of us were on a bird shoot. One of the party was a man of continental extraction, who was using a semi-auto shotgun. We had returned to the vehicles for a welcome coffee and a sandwich and noticed that his gun was leaning against the car with the action closed. When asked if it was unloaded, he assured us that it was, and promptly picked it up and pulled the trigger. With a loud bang, a shot went off, fortunately into the air.

Everyone was shocked, not least the owner of the gun. Needless to say, he was never invited to a shoot again. This just proves the point of the danger of semi-auto and pump action guns.

Barrel length is a matter of purpose and personal preference. There is a common misconception that the longer the barrel, the further (or harder) the gun will shoot. Longer barrels are solely to add muzzle weight for balance and ‘swing’. Common sporting barrel lengths are 25-30” (63-76cm), with 28” (71cm) being the most versatile for all-round use. Dedicated clay target-shooters normally opt for longer barrels. In my experience, barrels of 30-32” (76-81cm) appear to deliver a downward muzzle ‘flip’, while barrels of 25-27” (63-69cm) seem to give an upward ‘flip’. The 28” barrels are more stable, with no significant muzzle ‘flip’.

The distance and spread of the shot charge are determined by the degree of choke, and not the barrel length. It is not clear who first came up with the idea and design for the choke on shotgun barrels to give various spreads of pellets, but it is known that Alexander Pape first patented the design in England in 1886. Thereafter, WW Greener went on to improve and develop chokes on his guns. The choke is the constriction within the last section of the muzzle which concentrates the shot pellets. A full choke has a tighter constriction and gives a tighter pattern, resulting in denser shot patterns for longer range. True cylinder means no restriction at all, allowing the shot to spread more widely after leaving the barrel muzzle. 100 The most popular and versatile chokes for all-round shooting are improved cylinder for closer shots and modified choke for longer shots. Many modern guns come with a set of normally five interchangeable screw-in choke tubes, rendering the gun suitable for any type of shooting and range required.

The term ‘bore’ is derived from the age-old English tradition, whereas ‘gauge’ is an American term meaning the same. The bore or gauge of the barrel is calculated from the number of pure round lead spheres or balls of equal size which fit through the barrel and which, together, would weigh 1lb (454g). Where 12 balls of 0,729” (18,5mm) diameter (the diameter of a 12-bore barrel) weigh 1lb, the gun is a 12-bore. Twenty smaller balls of 0,617” (15mm) diameter would denote a 20-bore gun. Obviously, the numerical bore designation increases as the bore becomes smaller. Nowadays shotgun bores or gauges for all practical purposes are mainly 10-bore, 12-bore, 16-bore, 20-bore and 28-bore, which are popular sizes. An exception is the .410 shotgun, which is not a bore designation, but is a calibre and is the actual barrel diameter measured in inches.

Chamber lengths also deserve a measure of understanding. Many older guns (roughly pre-WWII) have chamber lengths of 2½” (65mm) and longer cartridges must not be used in these guns. They may seem to fit into the chamber, but when they are fired, the crimp opens into the forcing cone, which is a restriction ahead of the chamber at the start of the actual barrel. This can cause raised pressure to dangerous levels. Most modern guns have chambers of 2¾” (70mm) and some guns may be chambered for magnum loads of 3” (76mm).

Let us have a brief look at cartridges and loads. (These will be covered in detail in a following chapter.) Today most shot cartridges have a metal case head (base and rim) and the walls of the case are made of plastic with a fold or ‘star’ crimp at the mouth. Varnished paper cases are available for those traditionalists who enjoy the nostalgia of shooting vintage-type loads in vintage guns. Pellet size in game bird or clay target loads is usually numbered from number 9 shot, which is small (2mm) to about number 3 shot (3,3mm) or even number 1 shot (3,7mm). The larger pellets are usually used for hunting geese and larger birds. There are tables available showing recommended shot sizes for use on various game birds. As a rule of thumb, 8, 7½ and 7 are usually used for clay target doves and pigeons, 5 and 6 for terrestrial game birds and duck, and 3 and 4 for geese and waterfowl. Generally, 5 and 6 shot sizes are a good all-round compromise. Shot loads are normally shown in grams, being the weight or mass of pellets in a load. A 28g load (1oz) of number 6 shot would have about 270 pellets in the cartridge. Most game loads are 28-32g, with 34g being a heavier game load. Obviously, the bigger the shot size, the fewer pellets will be in the load. It is generally acknowledged that pattern kills, so the more pellets striking the bird or target, the higher the chance of a kill. Larger pellets mean less dense patterns and a higher chance of a lost bird. Until recently, most modern cartridges had a plastic cup wad enclosing the pellets, which effectively improved shot patterns and reduced bore leading. Nowadays, though, many game loads are being loaded with biodegradable fibre wads, which are environmentally friendly, but open the patterns somewhat.

Much is said and written about being ‘gun-fit’. Unless you are sufficiently well-off to order a bespoke gun made to fit your personal physique, you will have to make do with the ‘average’ gun off the shelf. Fortunately, most leading gun manufacturers have done much research into the measurements of the average person and the guns are manufactured by CNC process to fit most shooters, without much alteration.

The most common problem with a gun off the shelf is stock length (length of pull). This is measured from the front surface of the trigger to the rearmost centre of the butt-plate or recoil pad. If this is too long, it can be shortened by a competent stock-maker by cutting a slice off the butt end of the stock. If it is too short, the stock-maker can add a spacer or thicker recoil pad to lengthen it, depending on the length of your arms and neck, as well as your shoulder width. Most other problems of fit can be adapted or corrected by good gun mounting and style. Muscle memory is wonderful and by ‘fitting yourself to your gun’ and continually practising correct gun mount, your shooting will improve dramatically.

A wise shooter once said: ‘Shooters will improve their shooting by using a gun with a shorter stock, more open chokes and a shorter barrel.’ Whichever gun you use, go to a shooting range and have an instructor check your hold, style and mount. Once you feel comfortable and know the right moves, stance and mount, go home and practise these over and over. Standing in front of a mirror can help. (Please make sure your gun is unloaded before you do this!) For dry-firing, invest in a good set of snap-caps or dummy cartridges, which will prevent firing pins or strikers from being damaged.

As with any expensive piece of equipment, a gun should be cleaned and oiled after use during the shooting season, and at least once or twice during storage in the off-season. A good cleaning kit and gun oil are essential for the maintenance of your firearm. There is a trend among some shooters of simply pulling a bore-snake (pull-through) through the 102 barrels after a shoot and then putting the gun away. This is highly inadvisable. Although the barrels may seem clean when one looks down them, there will be powder and lead residue which are not easy to see and could cause corrosion or damage. I suggest using a rod, brush, patches and woollen mop to give the barrels a thorough cleaning, followed by a light coat of oil. Wipe all the metalwork with a lightly oiled cloth. Do not spray a lot of oil into the action or barrels. Light oiling is all that is required, as too much oil is also detrimental, especially to the stock and wood. Use a cotton bud or small art-painting brush to get into the inner parts of the action and fore-end mechanisms to remove grass seeds, dust and other debris. Remember to oil under and around the safety catch. If sweat and moisture get under this, they can cause rust and seize the catch. Lightly wipe the wood with a good stock oil or stock wax once or twice a season, especially in wet weather, and again before long-term storage. A good idea is to wipe a light coating of petroleum jelly along the junctions of the wood and metal around the locks and action to prevent moisture or rain from getting into the action. When storing my guns in a safe, I enclose them in a good silicone oil-coated gun sock such as ‘Sack-Up’ or similar and then stand them muzzle-down to allow any excess oil to drain downwards to the barrels, rather than soak into the wood. Never store guns in a bag or case, as this may cause them to ‘sweat’ and rust.

Looking after your gun in this manner will ensure that they give trouble-free service for your lifetime and that of the next generation. Many guns well over 100 years old are still shooting as well today as the day they left the gun-maker’s bench.