Biggest is Not Always Best – An African Lesson

Namibia: 2012

 

By Donald Roxby

 

I’ve made a number of African plains-game safaris over the years. After each trip, a short period of satisfaction is followed by a sudden longing to go back.

 

One evening as I watched a colorful sunset, I started daydreaming about the red sands of Africa and the many friends I’ve made there. I could almost feel the fingers of the Dark Continent reaching out to draw me back. I went inside and asked my wife Denise if she was ready to return. Her a nswer was immediate – she looked me in the eye and said, “Let’s start planning.”

 

This time, however, I wanted to take along some other family members and invited my stepson, Levi Hulsey, to come along as his college graduation gift. When I told my daughter Brandy, she decided to give her husband the safari as a wedding anniversary gift, and my son-in-law, Robert Smith, was added to the group. It would be their first safari, and I was sure it would be a great adventure for all.

 

I spoke with my friend, Johann Veldsman, the owner of Shona Hunting Adventures, and he promised to make the trip very special for Levi and Robert, who were both interested in taking large antelope trophies.

 

Upon arrival in Windhoek, we were met by apprentice PH Willie Ilse, and traveled to Shona’s Tualuka Safari Lodge, in Kaokoland in the Kunene Region, in north-western Namibia. The beautiful, five-star lodge offers hunting on 16,500 acres of privately owned land on the banks of the non-perennial Huab River.

 

As promised, Johann and his staff lead Robert and Levi to the gold-medal animals they desired: blue wildebeest, kudu, gemsbok, and a tremendous 14-ich warthog that Johann and Levi worked at for three days. Since I’d previously taken these animals, I focused on black wildebeest, impala and Cape eland. With our trophies in the salt, we all took a break from hunting and found ourselves talking about other hunting possibilities. Johann’s seven-year-old daughter Zoe was listening to the talks with interest.

 

Zoe is a lovely little girl who quickly wins the hearts of all the hunting clients. She was born in Swakopmund but moved to the family’s hunting camps in Kaokland shortly after her birth. The first time I met Zoe, she was very shy and elusive. But with some effort, we became friends and enjoyed sitting under a tent flap in the afternoons to talk to the birds. She knew them all by name and could mimic their every sound with precision. It was amazing to watch her do this.

 

Hunting was a big part of Zoe’s life, and her dad took her for small game with her little pink .22 caliber rifle. She was very familiar with safari routine and, without realizing it, was becoming Africa’s youngest PH in training. She’d already become the camp’s unofficial social director. She enjoyed being around the clients and kept them entertained when they were not hunting. She has a bubbly laugh and you could not help but love her.

 

Since the subject that evening was small game, I pulled Johann aside and suggested we allow Zoe to take Levi on a guided “small-game” hunt for dassies, which is the Afrikaans name for hyrax. There are hundreds of these squirrel-like creatures living in the rocky ridges surrounding Tualuka.

 

Johann thought it was a great idea, and Levi thought it would be fun. He was happy to help Zoe show off her hunting skills. When we asked Zoe if she’d like to guide a client for pay, she jumped at the chance. That evening Zoe took Levi aside and instructed him on shot placement, using a mounted dassie she’d shot herself.

 

In the morning she greeted her client and, with Dad in tow, started out on the great dassie hunt. She led Levi to a dry riverbed and pointed out a group of dassies sunning in the rocks. They moved in slowly, trying hard not to spook the wary critters, which always position themselves in a good vantage point high in the rocks. Dassies have keen eyesight, so hunting them can be very challenging.

 

The range was a little far, and Levi’s first shot with his .17 caliber rifle was a miss. One shot is all you get. At the first sign of danger, the dassies dash for the safety of the many cracks and crevices in the rocks where they hide.

 

With this group now hidden from view, Zoe led Levi to another kopje where she spotted more dassies. She moved in closer to this group of hyrax, put up the sticks, and pointed out the large male she wanted him to shoot. It all came together. The shot struck home and Zoe congratulated Levi, and then led him up the ridge to find the trophy. She was brimming with pride when they found the dassie dead on the rocks.

 

After supervising the photo shoot, they walked back to camp to settle the details of the hunt. Levi gave her US$20 for the hunt and a $5 tip for her services. She was all smiles, having successfully completed her first safari.

 

That little dassie may have been the smallest trophy taken on our hunt, but it is the first memory that comes to mind when I look back upon it. That day is burned into everyone’s mind, and it was a thrill for all of us to take part in what will probably lead to the development of another outstanding Namibian PH.

 

If you’re hunting Namibia, look up Zoe for a small-game hunt. She would love your business and will leave you with memories that will hang with you forever.

Bio

Don Roxby has over 50 years of hunting experience and has hunted extensively in the lower Untied States, Canada, and Alaska. In Africa, he enjoys hunting plains game..

Bushpigs By Moonlight

By Doctari

 

My book, “It Shouldn’t Happen,” contains four stories: Being Dumb, Even Dumber, Dumber Still, and Dumbest Yet. This incident also qualifies.

 

In the early 1980s my wife Catherine and I purchased Halstead, our Zimbabwean farm. With it came a small herd of six very wild and spookish sable antelope. Halstead lies in Mashonaland West, just outside the one-horse town of Karoi (now Chinoyi), and those of you who have ever driven from Harare, Zimbabwe’s capital, to either Lake Kariba or the nearby Zambezi Valley that lies beyond Makuti and Marongora will have passed through it. The area is described as miombo woodland and it is prime agricultural country with reliable rainfall, good soils, and an almost perfect climate.

 

Sable used to occur in this area naturally, and I made it my mission in life to protect the traumatized few that hid out in a remote and undisturbed area of Halstead farm. I never high-fenced Halstead simply because I couldn’t afford to in the kick-starting years of my farming career, but what I did manage to create, however, through careful management and the employment of three game scouts, was the right environment in which the sable could thrive – and this they did. Without fail their number doubled every two-and-a-half years, and by the time my world was turned on its head by Mugabe’s disastrous land reform program, there were at least 120 of these magnificent antelope on not only Halstead, but neighbouring farms as well.

 

I soon became convinced that Africa’s various wildlife species can in some way communicate with each other, because all of a sudden waterbuck, bushbuck, impala, even warthogs appeared in the wildlife haven I had created, which I referred to as my “game section.” Unfortunately Potamochoerus porcus, the bushpig, also flourished there, and they are the reason for this story.

 

In the late 1980s and early 1990s, Zimbabwe’s cattle industry was booming. The reason for this was the Lomé Convention – a treaty that granted cattle ranchers access to the lucrative European Economic Union export market. Deboned, vacuum-pack and chilled, Zimbabwean beef hindquarter cuts commanded a premium price on the EEU markets and this translated into good prices. Only the best quality beef was exported and this necessitated the pen finishing of young steers with high-energy, maize-based diets.

 

Like much of Zimbabwe’s higher rainfall areas, Karoi was also good for growing maize, and I took advantage of this so as to be able to finish for slaughter the offspring of my rapidly expanding beef herd. My cattle thrived on the maize I grew for them, but so did the bushpigs!

 

It’s amazing the knowledge that could be gathered at the local country club’s pub. One evening after a farmers’ meeting, I complained to Jack Waddle, a grizzled local farmer, about the damage bushpigs were causing to my maize crop. Over a couple of scotches he told me of a “plan” to alleviate my problem. He said he’d done it once and claimed it was “deadly.” Due to being both young and, in those long-ago days, foolish (and a few too many beers), I neglected to ask Jack why, if his plan was so “deadly,” it was not more commonly practiced. I also should have asked why he’d only used the plan once, but foolishly I didn’t…

 

The plan is as brilliant as it is simple. On a full-moon night (because any form of artificial light makes bushpigs very wary and this defeats the object), take a 44-gallon metal oil drum to where the bushpigs are causing havoc, and stand in it while clamping a domestic piglet between your legs. Squeeze the piglet enough to get it squealing nicely and the action will quickly be forthcoming. (Remember, this all took place well before predator-calling gadgets became available.)

 

To his credit, Jack did offer up a piece of very sound advice – and it was simply this: “Make bloody sure you dig the drum into the ground and fill it with the soil so removed – otherwise the bushpigs will knock it, and you over!”

 

Thanks to good Scottish Highlands genetics and the typical Zimbabwean “three Bs” diet – beef, biltong and beer – I soon realized there wouldn’t be enough room for both myself and a “Babe” in the oil drum, so I prevailed upon the services of my ever-faithful tracker, Special. He was slightly built and just the right size to fit into an oil drum along with Babe.

 

The plan was subsequently modified to use two oil drums. It just so happened there was, in one of my bushpig-damaged maize lands, an area about half the size of a basketball court that was stony. When preparing it for planting, we just ploughed around the stones; to mark the spot, a nice and big msasa tree had been left to grow there. This made the area easy to find at night, and I soon realized it would make a fine bushpig killing ground.

 

In the storeroom that secured all my safari equipment were two good, thick-metal oil drums usually used in my operation to heat bathwater during the winter hunting season. They were perfect for my plan, so I had them carried to the open stony area in my maize land. My labourer also cut all the grass there nice and short so the all-round visibility would be good.

 

It took some careful thought as to how best to position the oil drums, because the very last thing I wanted was to inadvertently shoot Special when the action got going. His drum was subsequently positioned behind the msasa tree, the trunk of which was thick enough to offer him good protection. Large stones and some strategically placed branches behind Special’s drum would also force the pigs to only approach from the front. The best position for my drum was a couple of paces off to the side so that I could get a clear, close-range view of any bushpigs that approached Special, but without me being able to see either him or his drum. Holes were dug and the drums duly buried to about a third of their length. Special’s was also wired to the tree for extra support – just as well that this precaution was taken!

 

My other profession, that of being the local veterinarian, made it easy for me to acquire a suckling-sized, just-ready-for-the-spit, domestic Babe, small enough for Special to carry and to fit into their drum together.

 

We chose the night for our “attack” carefully – the night after full moon so it would still be dark when we entered the field after sunset but with enough time to prepare ourselves before the moon rose. On a clear autumn night, the bright rising moon would provide enough light to see the end of my shotgun barrel and any bushpigs that Babe’s squeals would attract.

 

For the occasion. I armed myself with a Mossberg 12-gauge pump-action shotgun. With its magazine plug removed, it could be loaded with six shells. This number, plus one up the spout, would be plenty of very effective firepower, especially when stoked with Special SG buckshot.

 

To say that the plan worked would be an understatement! Two things really surprised me. The first was the level of noise that comes out of such a small bundle of bacon, ham and pork chops! No doubt, the amplifying effect of the empty metal drum had something to do with it, but WOW, what an ear-splitting racket Babe produced when dear old Special firmly squeezed her abdomen between his knobby knees! The second was the ferocity of several big bushpig sows and the protective boar that soon came running in, in response to Babe’s ear-numbing squeals.

 

It quickly became obvious why the oil drums were a necessity and why, indeed, they needed to be dug in and secured. In fact, so vicious were the attacks to Special’s drum, they dented it! A large, very angry bushpig is a fearsome creature. By moonlight, when it’s trying to climb into the drum you’re standing in, is something extremely intimidating.

 

Unless you’ve done it before, shooting at night, even with a shotgun and at close range, is something a lot easier said than done. I shoot a shotgun with both eyes open and at night, even in bright moonlight, the muzzle flash blinds you for a few seconds. In such situations you’re supposed to close your eyes the moment you pull the trigger, and I simply could not force myself to do this. Alternatively, you’re supposed to close your non-aiming eye the moment you pull the trigger, and then close your aiming eye and open the non-aiming one immediately afterwards, so you can still see what’s going on around you while your suddenly night-blinded aiming eye re-adjusts itself. (As a result of the muzzle flash, the pupil of the aiming eye quickly closes. This results in temporary night blindness. A few seconds are needed for it to open up again and for your night-vision to return.)

 

But unless you’re thoroughly practiced in this art – and an art it really is – because to be able to open and close your eyes alternatively, like a blinking railway-crossing warning sign, takes lots and lots of practice. I wasn’t, and in the heat of all that action I quickly became confused. Every shot I took, and it was many, was with both my eyes open, and this repeatedly night-blinded me.

 

To stand totally night-blind, with screaming pigs all around you, even banging into the drum you’re standing in, is most definitely not for the faint-hearted! In all honesty, it soon became very clear to me why you only do this “plan” once in your life. The action was fast and furious, and I can recall having to recharge the Mossberg’s magazine more than once. However unpleasant the experience might have been, as a population reduction exercise the occasion proved itself to be extremely effective.

 

Over an almost two-decade period, a lot of which was spent pursuing dangerous game in the Zambezi Valley, I never once had to question Special’s intestinal fortitude. Many was the time we’d together faced tense moments and yet, although he carried only a knife, ash-bag and the shooting sticks, while I was invariably armed with my .505 Gibbs, he never once displayed an ounce of fear. For this, I respect his courage and admire him greatly.

 

Special’s date with Babe in the drum that night was, I somehow suspect, different. Like myself, he too, was very obviously out of his comfort zone. At the conclusion of it all, at least a dozen bushpigs of different sizes littered the killing field; and despite the fact that he and his family were to gorge themselves on their meat for the next few weeks, Special absolutely refused to even consider doing such a stupid exercise again. I can’t say I blame him. I’d held the shotgun, and even I had been scared spit-less! Like those before me, I also only ever tried this foolish exercise once.

 

Bio

Kevin Robertson, a.k.a. “Doctari,” is the author of the well-known Safari Press published books, “The Perfect Shot,” “Africa’s Most Dangerous,” and “It Shouldn’t Happen.”

 

A Zimbabwe-licensed PH and wildlife veterinarian, Kevin spends many months each year in the mid-Zambezi Valley, and currently lives in Namibia.

Crossroads for Adventure

Botswana: 2011

The normal, routine patterns of daily life ended as we left Florida en route to Maun, to meet PH Clive Lennox for a 10-day elephant hunt on Kgori Safaris’ Kwatale NG 43 concession.

 

All my life I’d dreamed of a classic African elephant hunt. Now, the time had finally come. I’d spent several months convincing my wife, Denise, that she needed to experience the adventure with me, and she finally consented and became our photo- and videographer.

 

Jim van Rensburg and the Kgori Safaris’ staff brought a wonderfully elegant style and friendly attitude to their camp, which we shared with Texas hunter Ronnie Rod, who kept us laughing from daylight to dark.

 

On Day One, we headed with Clive to our base camp, Tuskers, seeing giraffe, impala, kudu, eland, reedbuck, steenbok and zebra along the way. Elephant and their spoor were everywhere. At one waterhole a teenage bull was feeling his oats and ran after our truck. Along the way, Denise videotaped some good footage of different groups of elephant. As we were returning to camp we spotted a nice mature bull, but on closer inspection he had a broken tusk.

 

After a long day in the bush we arrived at camp, tired and hungry. After snacks around the fire, a four-course meal in the dining room, bed was a welcome sight for our tired bodies.

 

Day Two had the threat of an incoming front of rain. Clive had us on the trail by 6.30 a.m. and we visited one waterhole that had some decent tracks. Clive took note and then went to check as many areas as he could before the rain came. The morning rain was light, so it didn’t hurt our tracking.

 

After lunch under a shade tree and a 45-minute siesta, we started back on the trail at 3.00 p.m., looking for the track of the big bull. What a life!

 

About an hour later, we found a waterhole with steaming dung. Denise decided to stay on the truck working with the video, while Clive, the trackers, and I followed the hot trail. Once out of sight of the truck, the tracker climbed a tree for a better view of the situation. All of this took about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, the three bulls that we were tracking had circled back to the waterhole where Denise was sitting! She became more anxious by the moment as they advanced towards the truck. Quickly she reviewed her options: “Should l call for Clive and Roger”… “No, that might bring the elephants closer.” Just before she called out, she saw us reappear. We moved the truck, and she got some great footage of the elephants.

 

As we traveled, Laroto, the tracker spotted a group of elephant some distance away. Clive stopped the vehicle and sent the trackers to inspect the group. They returned wearing big smiles – there was a group of four bulls, and at least one was a good trophy

 

Now we were all starting to feel the excitement and anticipation. Quickly, we loaded our rifles (and cameras) and, with the wind in our faces, we took the track. After closing the gap, we checked the wind, then began glassing the four bulls feeding together. “Let’s get a bit closer,” said Clive.


Rodger convinced Denise to come along as the safari photographer and videographer and she was able to get some good photos and footage of different groups of elephants.

 

Now we were all in stealth mode – no spoken words and stepping only in each other’s tracks. After careful inspection, Clive whispered: “There’s the bull you want.” My mind was racing. Clive worked us into a better position. This bull was a giant! Twelve feet tall and weighing six tons.

 

I feel as though we’re in Jurassic Park and a dinosaur is bearing down on us. Time is slowing down. I can feel my heart pounding in my ears. I feel each breath. I find myself on the shooting sticks. Clive says: “Take him.” He has turned to face us and the wind swirls. He lifts his head to look at us as the trigger releases. He crumbles. Clive and I put in shots for assurance.

 

What a trophy! Congratulations continue all the way to camp.

 

Hunting elephant in Botswana is a special experience. During the day one hears a symphony of African birds and, at night, the call of lion. Experiencing life in the bush has a special intrinsic value that, unfortunately, words cannot describe.

Biography

 

Rodger and Denise Haag of Florida have been married for 32 years and have two daughters, Jennifer and Katie. Dr. Haag enjoys hunting and ranching.

White Rhinoceros – The Last Rung in My Big–Five Ladder

South Africa: 2007

For the past 45 minutes I’d crouched immobile behind a low thornbush on the edge of a 20–acre grass–covered meadow, watching five rhinos graze. Moving their enormous heads from side to side, they cut a swath through the field, ingesting an impressive amount of green groceries.

A slight wind was blowing in our direction; the quarry was completely unaware of our presence. When first spotted, they were approximately 70 yards off and had come no closer during their recent machinations. In the last three minutes, this situation changed. Two of the rhino, one with the largest horn, grazed in our direction moving from my left to right. The smaller one came to within 20 yards of us, while the larger was approximately 50 yards away.

 

For reasons known only to them, both rhino suddenly stopped not agitated, just frozen. The larger rhino was partially obscured by the closer. I held the dart gun on ‘ready.’ Carl had set the pressure for a distance of approximately 50 yards. Barry’s hands tightened on his .470 Krieghoff Classic double rifle just in case! Lady Luck smiled. After two to three minutes (it seemed a lot longer) the larger rhino walked forward, giving me an unobstructed view.

 

A moment of truth had arrived. I sighted the red dot on its right shoulder and squeezed the trigger. Following the whooshing sound as the dart flew, I could see the red tip impaled on the rhino’s shoulder. Startled by the sound, both rhino charged forward full speed luckily, not in our direction. They were joined by their companions and rapidly ran downhill. I breathed a sigh of relief and felt elated. Perhaps my final quest was over.

 

Six months prior this event, I had little interest in hunting a southern white rhinoceros. On two previous occasions I’d seen them in the wild and neither encounter had whetted my appetite to hunt these apparently docile behemoths. However, last fall I shot a very large male leopard in Namibia, and now had four of the African Big Five, all of record–book quality. I needed only a rhinoceros to complete SCI’s African Big Five Grand Slam.

 

The major impediment to my shooting a rhinoceros was the kill fee – at least $50,000… Out of the question. On the other hand, I could afford the substantially less cost of darting one of these ‘Pleistocene holdovers.’ Frank Cole of Cabela’s Outdoor Adventures arranged for me to hunt with Barry Burchell of Frontier Safaris. The hunt was to include darting a rhino, hunting caracal with Barry’s hounds, and introducing my daughter, Ruth Ann, to big–game hunting.

 

Accordingly, we arrived in Port Elizabeth in April after the obligatory 24–hour air travel. The facilities of the game ranch were very impressive. Approximately 50 miles inland from the Eastern Cape, the spectacular hilly terrain was sparsely covered with small bushes and short trees. The weather, early winter, was dry and the temperature ideal.

 

The first day, while getting over the jet lag, Ruth Ann practised shooting Barry’s Ruger Model 77 .270 calibre rifle. That afternoon she killed her first big–game trophy a very impressive Cape kudu bull.

 

The next morning, we drove 30 miles to the Lalibela Game Reserve through heavy fog and met PH Carl van Zyl, our primary guide. The veterinarian, a delightful individual, showed me the ins and outs of using his dart gun. This gun had a long, thin barrel and a red–dot sight. The maximum range was 50 yards. He made it very clear that, due to the parabolic trajectory of the dart, the precise distance to the quarry must to be known. (If the rhino was 20 yards away and the gun was set at 50 yards, the dart would go over its back. Conversely, if the rhino was 50 yards away and the gun was set at 20 yards, the dart would hit the dirt before reaching the rhino.) I practised several times, and managed to hit a small cardboard box.

 

We piled into a Land Cruiser and went hunting for rhino, first encountering a female rhino with a young calf. She didn’t seem too perturbed at our presence, but it was obvious she expected us to move on which we did. After about an hour, we found five grown rhinos in a grassy meadow and crawled slowly to the edge. One rhino had a trophy–quality large horn. Frankly, at that juncture, I could have borrowed Barry’s .470 Krieghoff and killed the rhino without further ado not a particularly challenging event, to say the least. However, since I was on a darting mission, the next 45 minutes were filled with excitement and anticipation as I sat still and waited…

 

After the rhinos had left the field, they soon disappeared from our view. Carl whistled for the crew to bring the vehicle and pick up Ruth Ann and the vet who’d hidden behind a tree about 75 yards behind us to watch the spectacle. All boarded, we followed the path made by the rhinos as they ran downhill into a ravine and spotted the darted rhino in thick bush – about 750 yards in all.

 

We gingerly approached the downed behemoth, but it became clear that the animal couldn’t move. Its respiration was shallow and rapid and its skin felt quite hot. The vet quickly began taking horn measurements, drawing blood samples, administering antibiotics, etc. The rest of the crew chopped down the nearby brush so that the rhino could be photographed. The dart was still in place; it had been driven in exactly perpendicular to the surface. This is important so that the sedating agent was injected directly into the muscle and not into the very thick skin.

 

After about 15 minutes, the dart was pulled out – we were ready to begin the final step. With all of us aboard, the vehicle was turned around and made ready to exit. The vet administered the antidote and hot–footed it back to the truck. The rhino seemed to shake itself somewhat and attempted to rise. We made a circle and returned higher up on the hill. By that time, approximately five minutes had elapsed. The rhino was up and walking around unsteadily, but headed in the direction of his departed buddies. Ten minutes later, we saw him grazing with the group as though nothing had happened.

 

Carl had told us that this was only the second rhino they’d darted, and that it had never been darted before. Also, they would not dart any animal more than once a year. He said that this darting episode had gone as smoothly as he’d experienced. (The next day, I received a certificate of the horn measurements for the SCI Record Book. A fibreglass replica of the horn using these measurements would be sent later.)

 

We drove back to Barry’s ranch. That afternoon, about 3 p.m., we rode in the high hills looking for smaller plains game. The scenery was absolutely spectacular, and we saw a number of different species. Just as the sun began to set, Barry decided to drive through an area of pines that looked much like Virginia spruce pine to look for a bushbuck with impressive horns.

 

Barry spotted the animal approximately 120 yards off. Ruth Ann put the rifle on the shooting sticks, but couldn’t see the bushbuck in spite of Barry’s directions. Finally, he said, “Do you see that brown rock?” She concurred. “Shoot the rock!” She did – and the bushbuck promptly fell.

 

We had an early start the next morning to hunt caracal. The hounds were turned out close to the lodge where two caracals had been seen crossing the road the day before. The handlers released the hounds and walked with them in a brush–covered valley while we remained on the crest of the hill watching their progress. After about 30 minutes, we heard the dogs strike. It soon became quite clear they’d jumped a predator. They ran in full cry for about 30 minutes, finally baying a caracal within about 300 yards of us. When we arrived at the tree, a large male clung to a branch that was densely covered by leaves. Although it was quite visible when I was close, from more than 10 feet away the cat was totally obscured by the foliage. This created a difficult situation because the rifle had a telescopic sight mounted close to the receiver. If I moved far enough away to see clearly through the telescope, the caracal was obscured by the leaves. At a short range, when the cat was visible, the scope couldn’t be focused. In desperation, I sighted down the left side of the barrel and guessed where the bullet should travel.

 

By sheer luck I killed the caracal. The cat fell out of the tree and was immediately retrieved by one of the handlers so that the hounds couldn’t tear the hide.

 

That afternoon, we drove to the edge of the Karoo dry–lands, approximately 75 miles north–west, where the terrain was flatter and the vegetation sparse – where Rush Ann completed her goal to acquire three antelope with her springbok. Barry told us that when springboks run a lot or are excited, the hairs on the back exude a particular odour much like cotton candy.

 

After a day of rest we began the tiring, boring long flight home. In the air, I relived the experience and mulled over the future. I’ve hunted four African countries and taken the Big Five. This safari clearly was not as high a level of excitement as I’d experienced before, but it certainly was far more of a challenge than killing the rhino would have been. I’m certain that our rhino was happier regarding the chosen alternative. In any case, I’ve now climbed the final rung in the African Big Five ladder.

Biography

 

Joseph C. Greenfield, Jr. is Professor of Medicine at Duke University. After stepping down as Chairman of the Department of Medicine, he hunted dangerous game on 12 safaris to four African. A number of these are chronicled in “Bwana Babu,” published in 2006 by Safari Press.

Last Chapter: Ninety Miles of Gravel

Cameroon: 2010

I went out the last morning of hunting and, except for a few baboons and some oribi that I never did spot, it was pretty quiet. By this time it was no great surprise to me.

 

René dug up some more roots and cut off some more bark to be made into manly medicine to keep his three wives back at the village happy. Occasionally he would set a fire in the long grass and if he and the tracker took too long, I would get up when I thought that we had rested long enough, make a few dorky dance moves… They always took the hint and away we would march. We did track one more roan that day, but again the beast was never spotted and eventually we started the long walk back to camp.

 

When I got back to camp I spotted my buddy Phill, and I swear that poor guy looked like 90 miles of gravel. He was about done. Sadly, around 10.00 a.m. that morning they’d come across the fresh spoor of a herd of buffalo heading into the mountains. With eight hours of daylight remaining, there was a chance to snatch victory out of the jaws of defeat. A buffalo bull is never to be despised and is certainly worth all the trouble and expense we had undergone to be there.

 

My great friend, totally worn out, declined to follow up the tracks and ended the hunt. I think that everyone involved was so disappointed. I sure in the hell was.

That evening we had the men come up one at a time and gave them each a tip and a brand–new panga. Cam Grieg had suggested the amounts for the tips, and mentioned that if more money were given, the guys would buy guns and/or ammunition and shoot game.  I should have packed some clothes/watches or something to augment the tips, but I really didn’t have any room in my suitcases. And money is always good.

 

When we broke camp early the next day, we had to make almost a seven–hour detour to the north to pay for the buffalo at the office that was in charge of such things. It was nice to see some new country along the way, and we were in no great hurry to get to town anyway, as the train left at 6.00 p.m. the following day. One always leaves a lot of extra time to allow for breakdowns in that country. Even the train was not beyond such things.

 

Daniel set us up in a $33–a–night motel back in Ngoundéré and we both quite liked the place. Phill had been craving a cold beer a few days earlier so when he went to his room to shower and rest for a while I sent the local cook/waitress out for two cold beers for my friend.

 

Later:

Me: Phill, I got the girl who works here to go out and get you a cold beer!
Phill: It had better not be Guinness!
Me: No! No! I saw the two bottles. They’re not Guinness.
Phill: Well, O.K. I’ll have a little. But what I really want is cold milk or iced tea.

 

That night the lady made us up some tasty but rather tough chicken and chips for supper. The meal for the two of us cost 8,000 Cameroon francs – about $16.00. I was happy with that but did wonder if they whacked the chicken as it was running a marathon race past the restaurant.

 

I really wanted to contact my wife, Margaret, after the satellite phone fiasco so Daniel and I walked down town about 7.00 p.m. As we left the gated compound we had to walk by about 10 or 12 men yelling at each other in the dark. We were about three feet from them as we walked by. A few big rigs were parked there and obviously the men were not happy about something. I probably should have taken a few flash pictures of the angry guys, but I have yet to descend into total stupidity.

 

I had no luck getting into the hotmail account, but I did try. We came back with Coke and watermelon and some oranges. All this pleased Ol’ Sir Phull.

 

The next morning Phill did his very best to get the cook to make him some fried eggs, over easy. He explained verbally, he drew pictures, he had a tracker there that could speak some English and had that guy explain it in French to the lady. And then he followed her into her tiny restaurant, grabbed an egg, pantomimed putting it in a frying pan that was sitting there… paused… pretended that he took the egg out of the pan onto a plate.

 

Twenty minutes later, my delicious ordered omelette was handed to me. Phill got a couple of eggs fried together, flipped over as an omelette and handed to him. He was not at all happy, as fried eggs are of utmost importance in his universe.

 

A day later he was wanted to order Coke and bitters from a lady in a bar in the last hotel we stayed at.  Wasn’t going to happen, and he quickly realized that when I pointed out the absurdity of the wish.

 

As a change of pace, we ordered fish and chips for lunch and were given a complete little fish on a plate. I’m happy to say that it was delicious. After that, our ride to the train depot showed up, and we grabbed our gear and drove away. Phill forgot to pay, I didn’t. I left my motel key in the room; Phill handed his to Daniel later that night a few hours into the train ride.

 

We did the long train ride, and again we had chicken for our evening meal. Hard to know how they kill them as they’re tough old birds. But tasty.

 

We told Daniel we were willing to pay more money for a hotel room as Phill was craving air–conditioning. As so often happened on this trip Daniel listened carefully, agreed totally, and then took us back to the old hotel where nothing worked including the air–conditioning.

 

It wasn’t all bad – Phill finally got his fried eggs the next morning. The waiter not only could speak English, but also knew enough not to bring the change back after the meal, so Phill ended up giving the chap about a four–dollar tip.

 

On the trip downtown I had the pleasure of watching a traffic cop in a traffic circle go nuts! Some dude in a car had offended him and he was shouting at the fellow, and then started kicking the front of his car, then kicked down on his hood denting it. From there he went around to the side of the rapidly depreciating automobile and started kicking in the side! Suddenly, from out of nowhere came the only jeep that I was to see in Cameroon. It was driven by another cop who rammed the car head on!

 

Later we drove by the poor shell–shocked fellow. He was having a very bad day. I think that he was in the wrong lane, but since most drivers in that city drive like they’re insane, I’m not exactly sure what set off the copper.

 

After a shopping trip that was mostly a fiasco, we spent the last six hours in Cameroon in Daniel’s house watching music videos. The Cameroon chicks sure like to shake their booty…

 

Pascal, our driver, did not show up to take us to the airport. Daniel got on the phone and yelled for a while. He then drove us to the main road and waited. Once again he got on his cell phone and did some more yelling.

 

Eventually, Pascal showed up with his little boy. He got behind the wheel and started shouting at Daniel as he drove. Daniel was now silent. Pascal next phoned some lady and hollered at her.

The airport was about 10 miles away and we had five hours to get there. Pascal tried to do it in five minutes. About eight miles into the trip, and after just missing another head–on collision, I saw Phill putting on his seatbelt. My nerves might have been getting a bit frayed about then as I snarled at him, “Are you nuts? Now you’re putting on your seat belt?”

 

My big consolation in all this was that if I got killed in a head–on, Pascal was not going to be getting any tip from me! On that I was adamant.

 

At the airport we got our guns cleared for take–off … a nice lady wanted elephant meat but we had shot no jumbo. Daniel gave the official a bribe when all the paperwork was done.

 

Later, we went through security and the lady cop hit me for 5,000 francs. She pointed at her breast and said, “Pour moi.” I gave her the nasty bribe and, now that I think about it, being a man (and all men being pigs), if she’d taken off her blouse, I might have given her 10,000 francs and there would have been no hard feelings…

 

Phill was taken for 3,000 francs. He was sent to the same lady with the person doing the sending saying, “An American. They will take him.” Or some such comment of what was about to happen.

 

On the long flight to Zurich, Phill finally got his milk that he had wanted for so long.

 

It was warm.

Biography

 

Richard Powell is an average–looking, middle–aged (if he lives to be in his 120s) redneck from Alberta, Canada. The chap with the silver Fu Manchu moustache writes hunting books of assorted misadventures in Africa, and in North and South America. His tenth book, “Obsession” will be published this year.

The Common Zebra is an Uncommon Mammal

The Common Zebra is an uncommon mammal Richard D Estes, PhD, explores the evolutionary rationale behind this most intriguing paradox.

 

If you have ever tried to sex and age the Common or Plains Zebra, you will know it is hard work. Eagle-eyed driver-guides will tell you that the stallions have brighter, more contrasting stripes, but I find that method unreliable. Wildlife researchers and managers tasked with telling the sexes apart can also pick out mature stallions from their more robust build, especially as reflected in their necks, which are thicker than those of mares. And it helps to know that herd stallions usually bring up the rear of a family unit. But the most reliable way to ID the sex of both adults and young is from a full rear view. 

 

The female’s vulva forms a broad band of black skin between the buttocks. Males also have bare black skin extending down from the anus, but this extends only a short way and is of a more triangular shape. The difference is not always clear, however – you really need an under-tail good look. But why is this scrutiny necessary? Why not just check out the male’s external genitalia? Because these are hard to see, that’s why. Seen from the rear, the testes blend in with the broad black stripe running along the belly midline, and the hind legs obscure the penile sheath except in a three-quarter view looking from front to back.

 

The difficulty of telling males and females apart begs the question: why is the Common Zebra the hardest of all plains game to sex and to age (with the possible exception of the oryx)? Such species contradict Darwin’s theory of sexual selection (Darwin 1871), according to which zebra stallions should look very different from mares. The theory holds that, in polygynous mating systems, in which some males can monopolize mating with more than one female at the expense of other males, male sexual competition (coupled with female preference) will lead to increased size and conspicuous display organs – that is to say, pronounced sexual dimorphism.

 

The Plains Zebra has an unusual (in mammals) harem social/mating system, shared by the Mountain Zebra and the horse, where stallions own harems numbering as many as five or six mares, captured one by one in fierce competition. Mare-less stallions associate in all-male (bachelor) groups.

 

Clearly then, the Common Zebra is an exception to Darwin’s theory. How come? I was confronted with the same paradox in my studies of antelopes. The wildebeest, subject of my PhD dissertation and later research, also displays minimal sexual dimorphism despite being highly polygynous. Females even have a faux penile tuft that makes it harder to determine gender. When I am recording the sex and age of a long line of passing gnus, I rely on differences in the horns, which are thicker and wider in the males. The same applies to the related topi and blesbok. In the oryx, however, females have horns as long as or longer than the males’ horns, and sport identical, highly conspicuous colouring and markings. Even the penile sheath is inconspicuous.

 

It took me decades to come up with a plausible explanation. The first clue emerged when I made a survey of the social and mating systems of the 72 species of African Bovidae, comprising antelopes, sheep and goats, and the buffalo, for a symposium on the behaviour of hoofed mammals (Estes 1974). It turned out that nearly all the herd forming (i.e. sociable) species with minimal sexual dimorphism live for at least part of the year in aggregations that include adults of both sexes. There had to be some kind of counter-selection, I reasoned, against development of conspicuous male secondary characters in species that live in sexually integrated groups.

 

Conversely, species with pronounced sexual dimorphism (such as impala, sable, Grant’s gazelle and kob) tend to remain segregated according to sex and age except for breeding. In territorial species, only males with exclusive territories succeed in breeding. The small über-class of breeding males enforces separation of bachelor males from females and young. Non-territorial bovids – notably kudu, nyala, eland, cattle, goats and sheep – are still more sexually dimorphic, and are also the most segregated. Male sexual competition is more rigorous in such dominance-hierarchy breeding systems, causing males to keep growing long after females mature, while at the same time developing the most extreme gender differences in size and display organs.

 

What is the source of selection that counters male peer competition for conspicuous secondary characters? Broadening the scope of the inquiry to other classes of vertebrates, we find that the sexes are virtually indistinguishable in schools of many fish species and in many birds that live in flocks. Pigeons, geese, and swans come to mind – “Birds of a feather flock together,” as the saying goes. It is clear that in such societies natural selection would weed out individuals that fail to fit the mold; ones that are different are likely to be peripheral to the school or flock and are most likely to be picked off by predators. An outstanding characteristic of these schools and flocks is the wonderful coordination of all the members; they wheel and turn simultaneously as though responding to an unseen conductor.

 

Could any of this information help explain the case of the zebra? I think it can:

    A. Minimal sexual dimorphism correlates with living in mixed groups. The closer the resemblance between the sexes, the more integrated and coordinated are group movements.
    B. Obvious sexual dimorphism correlates with sexual segregation. Males and females live in largely separate societies except for breeding males that, intolerant of potential rivals, are the enforcers of segregation.

How might these findings apply to Plains- Zebra society? In zebra aggregations, you have herds of bachelor stallions interspersed with families of females and young, each guarded by a stallion. Herd stallions interact with one another and with bachelors, yet rarely fight; most encounters take the form of the greeting ceremony. This is really a test of fitness, whereby a herd stallion serves notice that he is the owner of a group of females and young. An illustration of the greeting ceremony adorns the cover of my book, The Safari Companion (Estes 1999).

 

The respect of a stallion’s right of ownership is remarkable; it is comparable with the respect of the property rights of territorial males. In both systems, males have made a huge effort to win mating rights, and are prepared to defend those rights against all comers.

 

Probably the harem system of the Plains and Mountain Zebra and the horse evolved from a territorial system, which persists in other extant members of the family: the wild asses and Grevy’s Zebra. My colleague, Hans Klingel, who carried out his seminal study of Plains Zebra socio-ecology at the same time as I was studying the Ngorongoro wildebeest (1967; in press), believes that early equids such as the ‘dawn horse’ Eohippus defended resource territories like solitary antelopes (e.g. did-dik, oribi, blue duiker).

 

By exchanging ownership of real estate for ownership of females, the Plains Zebra and the horse gained the freedom to lead a nomadic existence, whether in separate herds or in aggregations of many units. This very unusual social and mating system largely explains why the Plains Zebra is – and why the undomesticated horse was – among the most numerous and successful of hoofed mammals.

 

As a consequence of the gentleman’s agreement about ownership of mares, males compete mainly over fillies. Now we’re talking about serious fights. Beginning in their second year (indeed, as early as 18 months), females come into heat for as many as five days every month. They advertise their condition by frequent urination and a conspicuous posture with hind legs straddled and tail slightly raised. Reacting to this come-on, stallions converge from far and wide, each hell bent on adding a filly to his own harem. They fight with the father, who behaves as though his mares were up for grabs, and with one another. Battles lasting for hours and whole days test the mettle and endurance of the contestants . Eventually a stallion succeeds in abducting the filly, which – after a trial period perhaps lasting weeks – is accepted into the company of mares already in the seraglio.

 

Adult mares display the estrous posture only immediately before copulation, ensuring that other stallions are not attracted and the family is left in peace. When approached by a stallion, and during copulation, young and adult mares assume a facial expression that Germans call Rossigskeitgesicht – a splendid term with the mundane English translation “mare-in-heat face”. This display also signals submission.

 

Unfortunately for the stallion that abducted her, however, the filly comes into estrus again a month later. The battle royal begins all over again and he may well lose her to another stallion. And she keeps coming into heat without becoming pregnant for up to a year. When she is finally in foal, the filly settles down for good in the sire’s harem.

 

The resemblance between male and female Plains Zebras is close enough that, in a band containing family and bachelor groups, it is behaviour, rather than looks, that makes the stallions stand out. The herding (Fig. 5) and greeting behaviour of herd stallions and the horsing around often seen in bachelor herds are a give-away. Call me crazy, but I see a parallel between zebras and pigeons (which I kept as a child). Like zebras, male pigeons are a bit more robust than females, but you cannot pick them out in a flock until the males start courting and fighting.

 

Alert readers may at this stage be saying to themselves: “This is all very well, maybe even interesting, but the real question – how did this masking of male secondary characters came about – remains unanswered.” Point taken… My attempt to account for this looks at the zebra’s presumed ancestral social organization and draws on my explanation of minimal sexual dimorphism in wildebeest, oryx, and the like. Both may be considered highly speculative. Indeed, the theory I advanced, in Estes (1991), to account for the condition in bovids is not widely known and has even been discounted – at least by some colleagues of mine who have read the paper.

 

I proposed that male sexual competition comes in two forms with opposite effects: the familiar peer competition that Darwin recognized, and a much less familiar kind called despotic competition that he didn’t. Peer competition, involving males of the same age and development stage, promotes sexual dimorphism. Despotic competition involves aggression by older and bigger males against younger, weaker males. Competition of the latter kind leads to the eviction of adolescent males from female herds when they develop secondary characters that reveal their gender and trigger the aggression of breeding males. Following eviction, the sex ratio, which remains roughly equal as long as both sexes stay in their natal herd and home range, becomes skewed due to higher male mortality rates.

 

Accordingly, natural selection should favour a suppression of male secondary characters until the stage is reached when the benefits of leaving (to join bachelor herds and engage in peer competition) outweigh the costs of skulking in female herds. Considering that the fittest males pass on their genes to far more offspring than females can (large antelopes produce only one calf a year for say eight to ten years), mothers should do whatever they can to promote survival of their sons. The same holds true for zebras and horses, which have a 12- month gestation and can produce only one foal a year.

 

In my obscure 1991 paper, I proposed that female bovids get around the problem of keeping their sons with them, while at the same time allowing them to develop the weapons essential for peer competition, by themselves growing horns and copying other male secondary characters.

 

When horns of similar size and shape are present in both sexes, they cease to be badges of gender. Ditto markings, beards, manes, and other traits evolved by males to advertise their gender. While I know that females with horns use their horns as weapons, I maintain that natural and sexual selection for keeping males with females until they are prepared to join male society is stronger than selection for horns as weapons in females. There is not much evidence, after all, to suggest that horned females are subject to lower predation rates than hornless ones.

 

My theory would explain how it happened that oryx males and females are more alike than, say, wildebeest or topi. These desert species roam widely and exist at very low population densities. Evicted subadult males would be unlikely to find a separate bachelor herd they could join. Consequently, the costs of leaving are greatly outweighed by the benefits of staying. So oryx herds include bachelor males intermixed with females. The alpha male treats them all the same as long as they behave the same: that is, submissively. Female-mimicry of male horns and other markings originally reserved for males to the adult stage might explain how this unusual transformation of an originally territorial mating system came about.

 

Enough said already about bovids, however. This article is supposed to be about a hoofed mammal from an altogether different order: an odd-toed, not an even-toed ungulate. What gave rise to the selection pressure that would account for look-alike male and female Plains Zebras?

 

I cannot even use the argument that the risk of being evicted from the herd is the source of counter-selection, because male offspring are not evicted. In the harem system, selection favours stallions that take a paternal interest in their offspring by allowing them to stay on in the natal family.

 

Eventually, at between two and three years of age, they leave of their own accord and join a bachelor herd, where they remain until mature and ready to start their own harems at five years or so.

 

If the zebra’s ancestors were territorial, then that might explain how it all started. The benefits of staying with the mother in a female herd would select for sons that avoid eviction by territorial stallions through continuing to look like females. Regardless of how the harem system might have come about, minimal sexual dimorphism would facilitate association in aggregations with minimal strife and become what socio-biologists call an evolutionarily stable strategy (ESS).

 

I want to make just one final point: Grevy’s Zebra was once widely distributed in Africa. It is now an endangered relict species that the Plains Zebra has replaced everywhere except in the most arid parts of its former range. The same may be said of the wild asses. This is proof (I would argue) that the nomadic harem system of the Plains Zebra and the horse is superior to the territorial society of the Grevy’s Zebra and the wild asses. Although the explanation I have offered for the Plains Zebra’s lack of sexual dimorphism is pure speculation and is unprovable, I hope that I have made the case that toning down gender differences by reducing male aggressiveness helps Plains Zebras to live together in relative peace.

References: Darwin, C R 1871. The Descent of Man and Selection in Relation to Sex. Appletonn New York.

Estes, R D 1974. Social organization of the African Bovidae. Proceedings of an International Symposium on the Behavior of Ungulates and its Relation to Management. IUCN Special Publication (New Series) No. 24, Morges, Switzerland, pp. 166- 205.

Estes, R D 1991, The significance of horns and other male secondary sexual characters in female bovids. Applied Animal Behavior Science 29: 403-51.

Estes, R D 1999, The Safari Companion. Chelsea Green, White River Junction, VT.

Klingel, H 1967,. Soziale Organisation und Verhalten freilbender Steppenzebras (Equus quagga). Zeitschrift für Tierpsychologie 27: pp. 580-624

Klingel, H (in press). Equus quagga (in) Kingdon, J S and Hoffmann, M: The Mammals of Africa Vol. 5: Equids

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