Into The Thorns

Into The Thorns

Chapter One

Ambush Alley

 

On one of the farms on the far western boundary of the Project, just ibefore we cross the Ingwezi riverbed onto AJ’s properties, the dirt road snakes its way between two high ridges of rugged koppies that run parallel to the road. At some point the ridges are only about 50 yards away from the road and further on they stand about 200 to 300 yards away. I don’t know where the name “Ambush Alley” originally came from. Possibly a farmer was ambushed here during the Rhodesian war, or maybe the farmers were convinced that if they were going to be ambushed, this is where it would happen. Either way, this piece of road is made for ambush, that’s for sure.

 

Graham told me that this section, a couple of miles of it, is actually part of the original Pioneer settlers’ road. After crossing the Ingwezi it winds its way north and east past our camp at the Mangwe Pass. Standing between those brooding ridges it’s easy to picture the old wooden wagons with their 16 trudging oxen, creaking and trundling north, whips cracking, voorloopers shouting, heading into new land filled with adventure, excitement and sorrow.

 

On both sides of this road, the narrow alley is choked with the dreaded ‘wag ‘n bietjie’ bush. ‘Wag ‘n bietjie’ is Afrikaans, the language of so many of the ‘trekkers’, or settlers, and it means ‘wait a bit’. It means wait a bit because that’s exactly what happens when you’re hooked by one of these treacherous bushes. You actually wait a lot more than ‘a bit’ when you have to unhook yourself. These bushes are the young of the Mkhaya, or knob-thorn (Acacia nigrescens) tree and are covered with hooked thorns similar to those found on a rose bush. One cannot force one’s way through these bushes, they will shred flesh like flensing knives. Most hunters to southern and central Africa have met the ‘wag ‘n bietjie’ bush, but ambush alley is the headquarters for the damn things.

 

In June of 2001, the season of the monsters, we found tracks of a very big leopard utilising this road. I was hunting with Fred and Julia Herbst from Pennsylvania, a couple who would return for several more safaris and become good friends with my wife and I. Fred’s focus was a big male leopard and Julia was going to try to collect a few plainsgame trophies, including kudu. Fred and Julia had travelled over with John White and his friend Cheryl.

John wanted to hunt leopard with dogs and was being guided by professional hunter Kevin Du Boil and Tristan Peacock, a houndsman from Bulawayo, and was focusing his attentions on a large cattle killer on our eastern boundary which we had named ‘Smith’s Block’. Smith’s Block was ambling around with feet that squared eleven. He was obviously a monster!

 

We had about fifteen baits out which had only produced two females and one young male, and we were on day eight. The tracks we found now in ambush alley looked very promising and Peter and I got down to examine them more carefully. They squared ten, and they had been made that night. We decided to move one of our already smelling beef hind legs into the valley immediately. We found a suitable flat-topped acacia tree about 60 yards east of the road, near a cattle fence and metal gate. We cleared a shooting lane to the southwest and hung the beef.

 

Two days later, on our bait-checking rounds, we saw the size ten leopard track in the dust again. Hearts in our mouths, we made our way slowly down ambush alley. Our bait had been hit! It was now quite decomposed, but about five or six pounds had been ripped out of it by this big male. We were excited and turned the Land Cruiser around and headed back toward the mountain camp. On the way we were lucky enough to collect an impala ram which I decided to hang in place of the rotten beef leg. I was worried that the leopard might return, take a perfunctory sniff at the deteriorating meat, and then move on. Now he would have brand new impala meat to get stuck into.

 

We reached camp in high spirits. Things were not tip-top for John White, however. They told us that they had indeed cut the tracks of Smith’s Block, and the hounds had raised Cain in pursuit of him. Unfortunately he headed back toward his home stomping grounds on the ranch called Smith’s Block (imagine that) where we had not secured the hunting rights. Tristan called his dogs off at the boundary and a weary peed-off group returned to camp. To rub salt in the wounds we found out later that the owner of Smith’s Block would have been ecstatic for us to nail this gnarly old cattle killer, C’est la vie. So, John and crew were unhappy, but Fred, Julia and I were very excited.

 

We returned to ambush alley at about 3pm. Julia was determined to be in the blind for the kill, so we set up three sleeping positions, set the shooting sticks and sandbags, secured the warning line, and then made last minute adjustments to the camouflage of the blind. I had given Fred the standard briefing that morning which covers what happens in the blind, what to expect, and most importantly the actual shot. We cannot afford to have a big male leopard leave the bait without a shot being taken. Big male cats are scarce. The time and work involved in getting one into shooting position has to be witnessed to be believed. So we needed to avoid ‘educating’ a cat at all costs. When the light goes on most leopards will look into the light then look away, then, after about five seconds or so they will slowly move off. This gives the shooter plenty of time to assess the target, decide on a shot and squeeze off. Remember that the rifle is already aiming at the spot the leopard should be feeding from. Very little adjustment should be necessary, and the rifle is bedded down into small sandbags at the rear and fore end of the rifle. Every hunter, including myself, has a hammering heart and shaking hands when the light goes on. Some people obviously suffer from this more than others, but our method of securing the rifle cuts out a lot of room for error.

 

The leopard itself is not massively boned and muscled like a lion. Any medium calibre rifle firing proper ammunition can reach the leopard’s vitals from any angle. We cannot afford to sit there with the spotlight on waiting for the perfect shot. The hunter must take the one that is on offer. If a cat is on his haunches facing away, a spine shot into the lungs is perfect. If he is walking away a rectum shot will do the job. If he is angling away a raking shot into the area behind the ribs angling into the front offside shoulder will kill him.

 

Front on, and side shots need no elaboration. But it will amaze the hunter who has not yet tried leopard hunting, to hear the percentage of our leopards, even with the sand bagging and gun rests, that are missed or wounded at under a hundred yards. It is quite unbelievable. In an average year with about 15 leopard hunts, two will be failures through bad luck. Of the remaining 13, five or six will be missed or wounded. Professional hunters bitch when we pay our yearly life insurance policies. But if you are a leopard specialist, and you sit down and think about it, these insurance brokers have a point. We are a very bad risk!

 

Another aspect which is covered in the briefing before we actually sit, is that the hunter must not fire unless the PH says the word. Occasionally the culprit who has bent the warning stick is one of the small cats, or even a honey badger. All this is swimming around the poor excited hunter’s head as we settle in. Find the cat, select best shot – don’t procrastinate, don’t jerk trigger, wait for PH to tell me to “shoot”, be quiet, don’t pee, don’t snore, don’t cough. Confusing instructions, but we only ever have four or five super cat males on our area at any one time. In one season we take only two, sometimes three of these giants; and we cannot afford to let one slip away ‘educated’.

Fred was nervous after all these admonishments; and I think that must have had some influence on the bizarre incidents which followed. The three of us settled in. We removed our shoes, unwrapped our sandwiches, uncapped the water and Fred checked his rifle one last time. We were ready. One last sniff and cough, and the trackers drove off in the Cruiser.

 

This, for me, is one of my favourite times. It’s been a frantic day checking baits, securing new bait, getting back to camp to fetch all the equipment, and then working flat-out to make sure the hide is perfect by sundown. We are all quite worn-out and it feels good to lie down on a comfortable mattress out in the open with the evening coming on. Of course the feeling of anticipation, knowing that a giant leopard should be coming in, adds to the feeling of wellbeing, of a job well done.

 

Fred lay on the left side of the hide as we looked toward the bait, Julia in the middle, and me on the right. Fred and Julia are both bow hunters back in the USA and their self-discipline showed. They were quiet. The doves, francolins and a group of nearby green wood pigeons provided the evening serenade. We could hear a group of baboons barking in the distance. The gentle fitful breeze was still steady from our right as we looked toward the bait. I lay there hoping that the high ridges of ambush alley were not going to play tricks with the wind as they cooled down.

 

About an hour after dark Julia nudged me in the ribs. I opened my eyes and focused on the warning stick above our heads. The stars provided us with enough dim light to enable us to see the stick and each other, but that was all. Sure enough, the stick bent. Gently forward, relax, gently forward. He must be licking the bait. I gestured for Julia to stay still and for Fred to sit up very very slowly. Once he was up behind the rifle I silently stood up with the light and turned it on. An eye flashed, went out, then two green-white eyes flashed. Close together. A small cat, probably a genet. I moved a short step to the right to get a better look. Boom! Fred’s rifle clapped, and I nearly soiled myself. It was the last thing I was expecting! I saw the unscathed genet now; he took one more look toward us then skittered down the tree.

 

“Jesus Christ Fred. That was a damned genet cat!”

 

“Ah hell, I just, ah hell….” He answered. I could see that he was devastated. He knew he had screwed up. “I saw the eyes flash, I saw spots, I thought maybe it was part of the leopard, I was remembering what you said – I didn’t want him to get away. Ah shit, I’m sorry, I screwed up”.

 

I didn’t want to belabour the obviously ruined super-cat hunt. I felt more sick with remorse than anger at Fred. God damn it. All that work and luck of getting a giant male on bait ruined. Shit! I felt deflated and resigned. Fred sat with his head in his hands. I knew he felt worse. Julia lay still with the blanket up to her nose. I could make out her wide eyes in the starlight. She said nothing.

 

“We’ll just sit tight until the car comes. But remember if there’s a next time, wait till I ask you to shoot, okay?”

 

I told Fred to reload his rifle and we sat quietly to see if the truck would arrive after hearing the shot. When half an hour had passed, I knew that they had not heard us. It was a clear night with no hint of rain. We were warm and I decided to spend the night. It was only 7pm. I reckoned that the cat had to be nearby and must have heard the shot. I was convinced that the only thing we were going to enjoy was a good night’s sleep out in the fresh air, and that any chance we had at a leopard had disappeared with the roar of Fred’s rifle.

 

“Settle in for the night Fred. Who knows, maybe he wasn’t near. Stranger

things have happened”.

 

I lay down again, but Fred sat for a long-time head in hands. He told me the next day he hated himself that night. He must have been feeling like hell. The night wore on. I was dozing when once again Julia nudged me. The stick was active again. It was still not an aggressive wild movement. It bent, relaxed, bent again slowly. I was puzzled. Would the same genet be back after being shot at? Had the leopard arrived? I gestured for Fred to get into position. When he indicated that he was ready I put the light on. Our friend the genet was back. We could see him clearly this time. I switched off the light. Four more times Julia nudged me. Didn’t this woman doze? Each time I checked the stick’s movement, but it was the same gentle action. We left the light off and let him feed.

 

At about ten o’clock the genet must have left. The stick was still. I could hear both Fred and Julia sleeping quietly. Thank God they were not snorers. The next thing I knew was that something was ripping the bait! Not only was the warning stick gyrating wildly, but I could hear crunching and tearing from the bait as well as nails ripping at the rough bark of the acacia tree! This had to be him!

 

Both Julia and Fred were sitting up.

 

“Quickly Fred, it’s him, I’m sure”. Fred dropped the huddled blankets away and moved into the bedded rifle. He nodded and I put on the light. The white light blazed onto one of the sights I still find so thrilling. A huge male leopard, green-white eyes flashing, white stomach, and gold and black back.

 

Tail slashing, left, right…. right paw hooked into the impala, jaws bloody.

 

“Take him Fred. Right shoulder, shoot”. Boom!

 

The leopard was slapped sideways by the bullet. He hit the ground, began roaring, stopped, then we heard him smashing through the thick vegetation. “He’s hit Fred, I’m sure of it, how did you feel? He’s a goddamn beauty! He’s a giant. Jeez Fred what did your sight picture look like?” I think I was more excited than Fred.

 

I was amazed that he had even come in. Fred said that he had seen the cat perfectly. He had been sideways, right side toward us, slanted upward on the acacia branch at about a 45-degree angle, and Fred had gone for the shoulder. I looked at my watch. 3.25am. I fired another shot over the hills to the east where I knew the trackers had driven to bed down. We talked excitedly and replayed the hunt over and over again until the Land Cruiser arrived. I yelled to George that they should bed down on the road until dawn. The three of us snuggled back down into the blankets for the coldest part of the night.

 

We were up with the first grey light of dawn. I cocked my .460 and George and I went forward to the bait tree. Sure enough there was the blood. We could see where the big cat had thrashed around and then made off through the thick vegetation to the east. Into the thorns. Peter, my tracker, was assisting Kevin with the dog hunt, so I decided to let George do his best on tracks while I stood over him as cover. We followed light blood-sign for about a hundred yards before I realised that we had a proper follow-up on our hands. This blood was definitely not heart or lung blood. I had felt so sure that this big leopard would have poured gouts of lung all over the brush and that we would find him expired not far from the bait. But I was very wrong. This hunt was just beginning.

 

I stopped George and we went back to where we had left Fred and Julia, and George went back to the truck to fetch my pistol and belt. After all that had happened, Fred was really downcast that the cat had not been found dead near the bait tree. He said that he had been steady, and he had been dead on with his sight picture. I tried to cheer him up, saying that the cat was probably lying not too far away, but I was worried. We both were. I cocked the Glock, jammed it in my belt and George and I went carefully back to where we had left the blood trail. Where we were at this moment was quite thorny, but mostly green leafy low bushes. The real stuff, the acres of wag ‘n bietjie, lay further to our left, or north, a couple of hundred yards away. I looked over that way and a feeling of dread flooded in with the butterflies already in my stomach.

 

The blood had already thinned. It was not thick, dark arterial blood. It was not orangey-red, frothy, bright lung blood. It was not watery, stomach-content, gut blood. I could find no bone shards. This blood seemed like muscle blood. At that range, the way the leopard had shown himself, I couldn’t imagine that Fred had hit the muscles of the back legs. If he had gone into the front leg surely there should be bone? If he had nicked the front leg there would be less blood than this. We pressed on, yard by slow yard. The cover was becoming thicker.

 

Whenever possible we try to call in help when following up wounded leopards in our areas. One more experienced PH is ideal. You can cover each other and the tracker perfectly without “over cluttering” the operation. My nearest assistance would be Graham, some 20 miles back up the main road, but I wasn’t sure he was home at that moment.

 

I decided to push on. George and I moved noisily through some burned out crackly undergrowth, trying in vain to move without sound. Fred called something to me from back near the bait. I didn’t answer for fear the big leopard was within charging range. George forced his way through an archway of head-high hook-thorn bushes, snagging his coveralls at every step – I went slowly around the side, .460 at the shoulder. This was becoming nervewracking and I needed to rest. A small cluster of granite rocks rose up out of the thorns about 30 yards ahead. I signalled to George to leave the spoor and fall in behind me. I felt certain that the cat was in the rocks waiting for us. He had to have heard us. I was ready for the charge and walked left foot leading at every step, my rifle up in the firing position ready to go. Sure enough, about four good paces up between the rocks I spotted a flattened area in the black koppie soil. I gestured with my eyes for George to crouch down and check it out while I covered him. He bent down, looked closer at the ground, lay the back of his hand against the flattened patch and immediately backed off behind me, whispering “U kona – dusi.” (He’s here – close!) I stood still for a full minute. Nothing. I crouched, looked down. There was fresh blood in the leaves. I felt the ground. It was warm. We had spooked this animal in the last few minutes. He was very much alive. I edged on to the top of the small outcrop, adrenalin singing through my veins. He wasn’t there. The tracks, no blood now, led down, and turned left. Straight into the intertwined acres of wag ‘n bietjie and thick yellow grass. This needed discretion. It was pure madness to go into this stuff with one gun. We pulled back and returned to update Fred and Julia back at the bait. Fred looked sick. After all that had transpired, this was too much. The poor guy was absolutely gutted.

 

I figured out it would be a smarter choice to try to find Tristan and his dogs who were hunting with Kevin and John White on AJ’s properties nearby, rather than drive 20 miles on the off chance that Graham was home. This turned out to be a lucky choice. We found Tristan within an hour, parked at one of AJ’s workers’ compounds. He had John and Cheryl and the dogs with him. Kevin was somewhere else looking for fresh tracks. We set off immediately for ambush alley. Peter too was there, and I was glad to have him in the team once again. When we arrived at the bait tree I battled to brief Tristan on the situation as the hounds could obviously smell the wounded leopard and were barking and howling in excitement.

 

We barely had time for hurried instructions to Fred, John and the staff, and the dogs were off. They clambered unerringly straight down the path George and I had taken, whining and barking all the while. Tristan, his main handler, Moyo and myself were in close pursuit, with Fred, John, Julia and Cheryl following with the remainder of our staff. To me, someone unfamiliar with dog hunting, it all looked too disorganised and slap-dash. But then Tristan had apparently taken many leopard this way. I decided to withhold council and see what developed. Either way it had to be better than going into the “point blank” vegetation alone.

 

The hounds hit the lying-down position by the outcrop and went ballistic. Fresh leopard scent was all over the place. They scampered around the rocks briefly then went howling into the wag ‘n bietjie. The hounds had hardly entered this sickening maze when the guttural burping roar of the enraged leopard could be heard in deep base against the high-pitched yelping, then ‘ow-ow-ow’ from one of the dogs. We stopped at the edge of the thorns. The battle raged on unseen for a few seconds then off the dogs went again – toward the road in the centre of ambush alley.

 

We were unable to keep up with the animals, the thorn was just too thick, and the dogs were on their own. We were all bleeding from cuts on our legs and arms as we fought our way back toward the road. As we reached the road, once again the leopard was brought to bay. The guttural roars, and the excited yelping and howling all rose in intensity and in volume. It sounded as though the battle was being fought in an area of thorns thicker than the rest – if that was possible.

 

Tristan had a dozen dogs. Not all were seasoned hounds, but I could not understand why they were unable to force the leopard into a tree or up some rocks where we could get a shot. I would find out in due course.

 

We regrouped on the road. Dog handlers, trackers, Tristan, myself, Fred and Julia, and John and Cheryl. The Americans had been kept safely to the rear out of harm’s way, but we were in a quandary. I wanted Fred to be able to finish off his own leopard, but Tristan and I both did not want to endanger the dogs or any person in trying to achieve that end.

 

The fight had now moved further northward up the valley and closer to the western ridge of hills. Tristan and I decided to climb the ridge and see if we could take a better look at the overall picture. We were hoping that at least one of us could get on some high ground or up a tall tree within shooting range of the leopard. Meanwhile, the leopard would fight the dogs off then bound away into the thickest cover he could find and then stop and make a stand. No one had seen the leopard since the fight began.

 

While we were standing on the road two dogs emerged from the bush, Buck and Gabe. Their tails were down, heads hanging. Buck had some bloodbearing scratches on his hindquarters, but we could find no teeth marks in either of them. These two had taken a hammering and had thrown in the towel. Gabe may have taken a blow to his left shoulder and probably had internal bruising as he was favouring his left front leg.

 

The commotion now from the dogs was sporadic. We decided to leave everyone on the road except for Tristan, myself, Fred, John and George. We walked north up the ambush alley road until we came parallel to the action. Dube, Tristan’s handler, was still with the dogs. After yelling and confirming with him that the leopard was still grumbling away in some very thick stuff, we cut into the thorns until we reached a fence line. We had now passed the subdued pack. The fence line showed about a yard of open ground on each side and we were now standing on a raised area about six feet higher than the surrounding bush. We could not see into it at all. We decided to get Fred ready for a shot down the fence line and then work the dogs up in the hope of pushing the leopard west, toward the wire.

 

Dube started whistling and yelling to the dogs and Tristan joined in, calling them all by name. They commenced barking louder, Whip and Biggun howling the bayed call. Suddenly, building up like a diesel motor, the grumbling growl of the leopard! A sudden burp and one of the dogs went off screaming. The plan was working! We could hear the cat bounding through the thickets right toward our fence. “Get ready Fred. Get ready, here he comes!”

 

As I said that, the monster poked his head and neck out of the bush into the fence line. I should have whacked him right then. It was a serious error on my part, but I so wanted Fred to salvage something out of this, I wanted him to finish the cat off. But the huge head swivelled immediately up at us on the rise. He glared at us for only a second or two, slipped back into the bushes and launched into the hounds once more. This time the screaming and barking was fierce.

 

“He’s hammering the dogs; we’ve got to go in!” This came from Tristan.

 

He was now seriously concerned for his hounds, and he had his .44 revolver out. This was not good. The cat would move out of the impenetrable thickets and he would not tree, he wanted to fight it out. I had zero experience with dog hunting, but Tristan said it was extremely unusual. Most leopards apparently would go for a cave where they could face their attacker, or they would go up a large tree to escape the hounds. The dogs were showing serious signs of battle-strain and we could hear two or three of them still baying around the grunting cat. As we found out later another three were ‘hors de combat’ and had gone back to the truck. Enough was enough apparently.

 

We hastily made a new plan – Tristan and I would go down right to the remaining dogs and try to get a shot at the leopard. The niceties of waiting for Fred to finish his cat were over. He was resigned to this and urged us to get the job finished. We moved as quickly as we could, getting snagged and ripped at every step. The leopard was in a thicket about seven yards by four. We could see the white and red flash of a dog every now and then and we could see the tops of some six-foot-high grass and saplings moving, but nothing else.

 

It seemed risky to me, but Tristan decided to put some .44 bullets into the bottom of the moving grass. They were his dogs and I supposed he knew what he was doing. The blast of the revolver temporarily silenced the dogs; another shot, blam! Now the long grass moved to our left. We had moved him. Once again he held. I decided to climb a mopane tree and get Tristan to pass my rifle up. This was achieved and I stared carefully into the thorns. The damn things were as impossible to see into from up there, as they were at ground level. I thought, from the movement of grass and bushes, that I had a pretty good idea where the brute was. Once I accounted for all the dogs (or had a good guess anyway), I braced myself up in the tree and fired a round into the spot where I thought the leopard was. It is not an easy matter to fire a .460 Weatherby magnum while you’re trying to balance in a mopane tree. I do not recommend it. At the ‘boom’ of the .460 the dogs went silent. The leopard continued to grumble and growl as he did before. He sounded exactly like a lion down there. I did not believe I had hit him.

 

I climbed down and reloaded. Three rounds sit in this rifle, now there were two. There is a standard unwritten rule in big game hunting. When you leave the truck make sure you have enough ammunition. In all my years of professional hunting I have never found myself far out in the bush without ammunition; but I can see how it could happen. Rounds being fired in desperation when one is lost, mislaid ammo belt, too many bad shots taken at a lightly wounded elephant. Murphy is watching. When I follow wounded leopard I like to feel unburdened and able to move easily, unhindered in any way. I have become used to wearing my leather belt with my 9mm pushed into the front. I take my ammunition holders and my knife off the belt; these go into the hands of my tracker. The other pertinent point is that when facing a charge, especially from leopard, buffalo, and lion, I make sure that I hold my fire until the absolute, absolute last second. The closer the adversary is, the less chance I have of missing him. I resigned myself a long time ago to the fact that there is no second shot. There is one shot only!

 

“Point blank” for a leopard, for me, means just that. At the end of the barrel if possible. With buffalo and lion I will fire at about five paces, which enables me to get out of the way of the still moving, but dead animal. An elephant in fairly open woodland can be taken more easily on the charge. They are a much bigger target and even if the brain is not hit with perfection, the animal will be stunned from the .460, giving me time for another shot. An elephant will also often turn from a failed brain shot. Buffalo, however, will not turn. Elephant in thick jesse or heavy cover are a different matter. The shooter is hampered by tearing and crackling bush and tree limbs and will have to fire upward at 40 degrees, or steeper, at the enraged animal’s head. This again is the time to wait until there is no going back. Point blank. This topic is covered with more care in the chapter “Follow Up”, so it will suffice to say here that I normally have three soft nose rounds in my .460 when following wounded leopards, but now I was down to two. Still in good shape.

 

Tristan and I decided to try to take the fight more to the leopard. We were running out of dogs. But every time we started yelling at the dogs and to each other to provoke a response from the cat I had to be up and ready for the charge. It was damned tiring as the adrenalin surges left me weak for a while afterwards. Once again we pushed forward, the dogs went in, the cat started burping his roars out, louder each time! Tristan fired at the whipping brush, I did the same. Had we nailed him? No! Off they went once more, howling like banshees back across the road into the wag ‘n bietjie on the other side.

 

This was exasperating. It was now very hot and approaching 11am. We sent for the girls and some water and the cool-box, and sat down in some shade on the road. This hunt was looking like it might slip away from us. Peter, who is the best tracker I have ever seen, is not the bravest soldier in the army, however, and had long ago taken himself out of the front line and appointed himself “dog looker-after”. He informed us that all the dogs, save two, had had enough of the morning’s festivities and retired to the vehicle. The only two left were Jessica and Biafra. Jessica was an outstanding hound and in my opinion the hero of ambush alley this day. She was not a big dog, and she was quite young. She was tenacious and lived for the hunt. She alone was still yapping in the bush as we all sat down to reassess the situation and cool down with some cokes and cold water. We called her over and she too settled down in the shade.

 

Tristan felt that with every hour that slipped away the chances of finishing this cat were disappearing. Too few dogs still had the vinegar to face this leopard, and you couldn’t force a leopard anywhere with only two dogs.

 

“This leopard seems reluctant to leave this maze Tristan, can’t we force him, provoke him into charging us?” I asked. I couldn’t see any other way out and I was tired of ripping my way through this stuff.

 

Tristan considered this a while and decided. “Yup, I think it’s the only way, Wayne. The dogs are done. If we can get them to work a little longer, and rile up the cat enough, he’ll come.”

 

It was a daunting prospect, but one which we’d been prepared for right from the start. For some reason Tristan had a protective Kevlar vest in his truck and George put it on. He was made of the right stuff and was ready, albeit unarmed, for battle. We stood up. I checked my rifle and pistol, and decided to force this thing to conclusion. I only had one round left. The one in the barrel. I toyed with the idea of sending George back to my truck for a few more. I didn’t see the point. I didn’t want to delay any longer and there was only going to be one shot now anyway. Tristan had exchanged his .44 for a .375 rifle. Jessica stood too, and Tristan began to get her excited and back into the hunting mode. To my surprise, and puzzlement, she faced the east side of the road and began to yelp at full volume. Tristan admonished her then stopped. He knew his dogs. Jessica and Biafra now had their hackles up and were barking furiously.

 

“Watch it Wayne, he’s right here in this thicket, he has to be, look at the dogs,” said Tristan. My God. Right where we were having a damned picnic! We yelled for everyone to back off. Tristan and I came closer together and began to shout obscenities at the cat, stamping our feet and kicking the bushes, advancing a yard at every step, rifle in the shoulder and hearts hammering. Guttural growling in short ascending bursts. Louder each time. Suddenly, for the first time since the fence line, I saw him, but so briefly and so little of him I could not get a shot off. He bounded back further into the bush, Biafra and Jessica hard on his tail. Tristan and I ran forward as best we could, George in tow. The leopard stopped again in some thicker stuff about 20 yards away. The two dogs continued yapping and circling the thicket and the loud growling was getting louder! Tristan and I shouted louder! We were psyched now into ending it.

 

“Come you bastard, come on!”

 

And with raging lion-like belches he came. The thing I noticed and remember the most was his hate-blazing eyes and the hugeness of his round head, ears flattened down in fury.

 

“Wait Tristan, wait, wait!” I shouted. I wanted him close. At about six feet I blasted him in the chest and he went down. I dropped my rifle and drew my pistol at the same time that Tristan let go with the .375. With a burbling sigh the monster from Ambush alley was finished.

 

It had been a long stressful night and morning, and I was suddenly tired. The staff rejoined us and George commenced regaling them with descriptions of the rogue’s last movements. They lifted the cat to carry him to the road and it was now that we saw what an extraordinarily large animal he was. Four of our staff were battling to get him to the road, his thick tail snaking along behind.

 

We lay him down in ambush alley and examined him. He was a beautiful specimen possibly just facing the end of his prime. His teeth were not yet broomed and yellow, but he’d lost all the serrations behind his upper canines. He was thick and fat with exquisite mountain-type colouring on his back and flanks. His big head was cut with fight marks that had just begun to heal, and it looked like he had received a bite which had damaged his right eye and his nose. What a battle it must have been. I wish I could have examined his opponent.

 

We turned the cat over to examine Fred’s shot and I was amazed to see his bullet-hole in exactly the right place! I could not understand it. If I were to take that shot I would have shot the animal in exactly that spot! It was puzzling. How had the bullet missed the heart/lung area? We rolled him over again. The left shoulder was broken. This explained why he could not tree and opted to fight it out on the ground. But how could a bullet enter behind the right shoulder and break the left shoulder, but avoid the vitals? It was strange bullet behaviour indeed. We decided to check the bullet’s path when the animal was skinned out.

 

We took some photos at the scene, but decided to do most of the photography at camp. This scarred old battler also had my .460 hole in the chest and another where it came out behind the right leg; as well as a hole high up above the left shoulder blade from Tristan’s .375.

 

Tristan took out his dogs’ medical pack and injected several of the dogs with antibiotics after cleaning all the wounds that he found. He then put in stitches on several large open cuts.

 

Fred was thankful that the giant leopard had not been lost, but he was glum. I tried to explain that he had made a good shot and pure bad luck had interfered via the bizarre bullet track.

 

This was an extremely heavy leopard and I am still angry with myself for not trying harder to find a good scale before gutting the cat that day. Graham and his client killed and weighed the leopard that became the biggest ever killed in the country some years later, and looking carefully at the photographs, I reckon this leopard was easily that size. Graham’s cat weighed 196 pounds. When we finally did get this beast comprehensively photographed and skinned, Graham and I went to the skinning shed to try to work out the puzzle of Fred’s shot. Strange indeed. The bullet went in at the right armpit and seemed to skim slightly downwards, along the ribs, but not entering the chest cavity, and staying under the skin. It then crossed the meat of the brisket, exited under the left armpit and went in a strange upward channel into the left shoulder, breaking the shoulder bone. The cat must have had his left side at a slightly different, higher angle than it looked in the bait tree. Fred probably should have aimed a little higher, but at the time I can see why he squeezed off where he did.

 

The dried skull of this fighting machine scored well over 17 inches and we ushered another Matobo giant into the record book.

 

Fred and Julia went on to enjoy the rest of their safari, with Julia collecting a beautifully shaped 55-inch kudu bull in the Shangani plains.

 

The Herbsts returned to our leopard areas five years later and Julia, now the hunter, put another big male leopard into the salt.

 

John failed to connect on his dog hunt, so I offered him a free return safari which he accepted. The following season he took a beautiful 160 pounder on the first night out

 

I remember one particularly unpleasant incident when I was about sixteen years old. We had a small ten foot boat powered by a 20hp motor which had cut out. My friend was standing on a rock, holding the boat while I tried to repair the engine. We could hear very little over the thunderous roar of the Victoria Falls, and when I looked up I saw that a Zambian police boat was making its way toward us. We were on the Zambian side of the river and it was obvious that they wanted to arrest us. This was not good. Not only would we be dragged across to Zambia and cause an international incident, but we had a bushbuck and some large bream in the boat, which we had shot with a .22 rifle that morning.

Into the Thorns is now available at Good Books in the Woods

www.goodbooksinthewoods.com

jay@goodbooksinthewoods.com

Into The Thorns

In 2008, renowned Zimbabwean leopard hunter, Wayne Grant, wrote a book called “Into The Thorns,” which was published by Mag set publications. This book was very well received, and regarded by many, as the best, most complete work on leopard hunting and leopard conservation. Due to its popularity, Into The Thorns sold out rapidly, and has not been on the shelves for many years. The shelf price for this book was $100, but these days, second-hand copies are advertised on eBay and elsewhere for prices between $300 and $400.

In 2020, Wayne completed a second book called “Drums of The Morning”, which primarily covers lion hunting and lion conservation issues. This book was also popular amongst big game hunters and collectors, and several veterans of the safari industry stated that these two books should be required reading for anybody preparing to be a professional hunter.

Because of the interest in, and scarcity of Into The Thorns. Wayne’s agent in Texas (Good Books In The Woods) persuaded Wayne to produce a second edition of this book with an additional five chapters. (approx. 50 pages). This second edition was published and limited to 1000 copies signed by the authors, and are available at Good Books In The Woods, in Houston, Texas.

Into The Thorns

Introduction

 

Malindidzimu. “Dwelling place of the benevolent spirits.”

 

Silozwane. Shumbashava. Njelele. Bambata Caves. Old names.

 

Old names, conjuring up hidden, misty scenes. Ancient rituals, cleansings, murders. All sorts of magic and divinings performed here over the centuries by the tribal spirit men.

 

The giant balancing boulders, purple now in the late evening, brood silently over the hidden bush-choked valleys, caves, and crevasses. The Matobo hills. Unspeakable happenings, disappearing slowly in the drifting shadows of time.

 

Here in south western Zimbabwe hundreds of thousands of acres of jumbled granite hills, known in southern Africa as “koppies”, sprawl in broken rugged splendour all the way from the Bulawayo – Johannesburg road in the east, to the Botswana border, 120 miles away to the west, where the hills melt away into the dry scrubland of Botswana’s semi desert.

 

Two thousand million years of erosion has removed six miles of earth to expose these fantastic formations. Some of the koppies are quite small – about 120 feet higher than the surrounding bush, but other giant hills rise up a thousand feet – sometimes more, often forming almost impenetrable ranges over 20 miles long. It is wild country. Long before the black tribes came down from the north about a thousand years ago, these hills, caves and valleys were home to the Bushmen – the small hunter-gatherer people who were the original occupants of so much of southern Africa. These lithe gold-brown nomads were gradually forced out by the ever-increasing northern blacks, until finally, over the centuries, they adapted to the western desert areas, covering what is now Botswana, Namibia, and southern Angola. Today small clans still exist in these areas, but it would be hard to find many Bushmen still existing in their ancient traditional ways.

 

But these original African aboriginal folk have left rich records of their passing. Hundreds of caves and other surfaces protected from the weather, still today, show beautiful accurate scenes of the hunt: dancing scenes, trance scenes and symbolic pictures of every description – all lovingly painted in amazing proportion. Some of these wonderful pictures have been reliably dated to over two thousand years old.

 

Today’s Bushmen who have known only the great thirst-lands have lost these skills with the painting. They’ve long since lost the verbal history of the early inhabitants of the mystic Matobo hills. But you can find a hidden cave still, up in a cool gorge far from prying eyes and you can sit there quietly, staring at the simple clean lines of a running kudu bristling with arrows, the hunters running behind, bows drawn and blood obo range. Small family groups allied with other groups. The weak were defeated by the strong. The Torwa dynasty weakened. Alliances crumbled.

 

Influx from as far away as Lesotho and Vendaland, in what is now South Africa, influenced and added to the colour and history in what is now south western Zimbabwe, and the Matobo hills were the spiritual centre for them all.

 

In the early 1800’s, far to the south, in what is now Zululand in South Africa, Shaka, King of the Zulus turned his attention to one of his subjects – Mzilikazi, leader of the Khumalo clan, who had become wealthy in status and in cattle. Mzilikazi and his people fled north – settling temporarily twice, before they moved into what is now south western Zimbabwe in 1837. This was the birth of the Amandebele nation, and with their warlike Zulu traditions they dominated and influenced the fractured tribes around them, amalgamating into a powerful force who, some fifty years later, would have to deal with a new threat – the threat of the white tribes. Once again massive strife and bloodshed amongst the people between the rivers. Gold, or rather, perceived gold, and millions of acres of vacant land enticed the hungry colonial powers to look toward the “unknown” country between the two great rivers, and once again the tribes fought. The strong dominated the weak. The weak found new friends and became strong. Nothing changed in the giant scheme of things.

 

The humans fought, lived, and died. They are still fighting. Today. Between the two rivers. But the haunting hymns of wind, playing gently through the ancient watching rocks, are the same gentle melodies that were listened to by the Bushmen so long ago.

 

And through these secret gorges and ancient wooded valleys another hunter pads silently along the winding trails. Oblivious to the madness of man and the unhappy relations the peoples have with one another. He was in these hills before the Bushman, and he knows the dappled valleys well. He is the hunter. The ultimate survivor. The Matobo leopard. Millions of acres of rocky wilderness have housed him, hidden him, and fed him through the centuries, and he is hunting there still.

 

I was ready for the charge and walked left footing leading at every step, my rifle up in the firing position ready to go. Sure enough, about four good paces up between the rocks I spotted a flattened area in the black soil. George bent down, looked closer at the ground, lay the back of his hand against the flattened patch and immediately backed off behind me, whispering “U kona – dusi.” I stood still for a full minute. Nothing. I crouched, looked down. There was fresh blood in the leaves. I felt the ground. It was warm. We had spooked this animal in the last few minutes. He was very much alive. I edged on to the top of the small outcrop, adrenalin singing through my veins. He wasn’t there. The tracks, no blood now, led down, and turned left.

Into the Thorns is now available at Good Books in the Woods

www.goodbooksinthewoods.com

jay@goodbooksinthewoods.com

Where The Turacos Sing

Usually, hunting bongo is not very difficult; it doesn’t require insurmountable physical effort. But it does demand tenacity, concentration, and the willingness to face the often-hostile and sometimes painful equatorial forest. One must also accept the long, tedious 4×4 drives day after day, often seeing nothing until the right track is found.

 

This story will show that sometimes it can be excessively difficult, both mentally and physically, far beyond the usual hardship. This is not necessarily what we seek in a hunting trip, since the hunter is supposed to be on vacation. I believe that big game hunting in general should be associated with a quest that requires a minimum of physical effort. In this particular case, it was extreme and without enjoyment.

 

At the beginning of June, we welcome a European hunter, accompanied by his agent and cameraman. The trio is young, full of energy, and very friendly. The hunting season in Congo had started several weeks earlier. The rains are regular, and the salt licks are frequented by bongos, buffaloes, and other forest animals. The hunting conditions are good. After six days of hunting (half of the trip), we still haven’t found any signs of a solitary bongo bull. We’ve already covered several hundred kilometres in 4×4 and several dozens on foot.

 

On the morning of the seventh day, we finally reach the “hot spot” of the territory at the moment, the Lokongo baÏ. The bridge, about ten meters long, had broken the last time the heavy Toyota passed. The vehicle had dangerously reared up but had not fallen into the river. A team had spent two days repairing it, and we could finally access the area. After the famous bridge, we have to take the infernal road. Only three kilometers have been opened up with machetes and elbow grease. The ruts, mud, and roots force us to drive slowly, and the jolts are brutal for the human body…

 

Then, we reach the end of the trail, in the middle of the equatorial forest. There is nothing, just the hostile and brutal jungle. From here, a small path opens up, which we cleared with the Baka trackers. It takes about half an hour to walk the two kilometers to reach the Lokongo baï. The small meadow is located on the right bank of the crystal-clear river of the same name as the baï. These natural clearings, rich in minerals, attract countless multicolored butterflies, Gabon grey parrots, green pigeons, gorillas, buffaloes, and of course, bongos, which are the main goal of this safari.

 

It is still early, and the fog has not yet dissipated when we discover a beautiful track of a solitary bongo. The front hoof is long and wide, making deep marks on the wet ground. After a thorough inspection, we notice that one of its legs shows an unusual mark, as if it had been cut. The animal has probably gotten caught in a poacher’s trap and can no longer place its foot normally. The trail camera check confirms the presence of a large bongo… Indeed, its body and neck are massive. Its roman nose shows a mature animal. The horns are long and thick. All the signs are there to start the pursuit.

After the excitement of this great discovery, all the members of the team focus and prepare for the tracking. The Baka trackers rip a few leaves from nearby plants and attach them to their belts for “good luck”. The superstition or the citizen of the forest plays an important part in everything they do, especially when they go hunting. The six dogs are unleashed, and the hunt begins.

 

An hour later, we find ourselves back at the starting point, returning to the salt lick… The animal made a large loop, we took the wrong trail… Frustration is visible on everyone’s face. The hunters’ expressions are slightly mocking and irritated… there’s a feeling of shame among the trackers and the guide for making the mistake. The good mood takes a hit, but we remain confident. A few minutes pass, then Robert, the experienced Baka tracker from neighboring Cameroon, restarts the tracking. We are in single file behind the solitary, who is heading deeper into the Congolese forest.

 

Suddenly, the forest darkens, the wind blows dangerously through the treetops, and then comes the rain… or rather, the tropical deluge, where each drop feels like a liter… our hopes of seeing the bongo vanish. We shelter for a few minutes under our ponchos, but the storm is too violent. It takes two hours of walking through the pouring rain to reach the 4×4. We are, of course, soaked to the bone, shivering from the cold, and all the muscles in our bodies are stiff and sore. The return to camp is uneventful, but still in good spirits. That was the first tracking of the trip.

 

The next day, the eighth day of the safari, we return to check the salt lick after the deluge. The verdict is clear—no track. Nature tests our patience…

 

Ninth day of the safari; a day of grace and pain

The generator starts at four in the morning. A hot coffee helps wake everyone up. By four-thirty, the whole team and the dogs are in the car. It’s time to leave. We need an hour of driving to reach the parking area deep in the jungle.

 

By five-thirty, with the first light of dawn, we begin walking towards the salt lick. We still don’t know that a long day awaits us… At six in the morning, we arrive at the baï and find that a bongo left only an hour ago. The track and the images from the trail camera show that it is the same animal we followed two days ago. Eyes meet, gleaming with excitement. A few words are exchanged, and the six Basenji dogs are released. I know from experience that the tracking should not take more than thirty minutes before the dogs corner the bongo. I don’t say anything and give the signal to go. The sun is already high in the clear sky. Sweat pours down, and shirts are soaked. The long human column stretches out into the humid forest without making too much noise. With the ground still very wet, the tracking is easy and fast. The animal heads southwest, towards the small swampy river called Baboundou. After twenty minutes of walking, we bump into a herd of lowland gorillas. We see them running and descending from trees, sliding down the trunks. It’s total chaos… The large primates scream and break branches, the dogs bark fiercely. The trackers shout insults 

n their local dialect and bang their machetes on the trees. It takes several minutes before the dogs are all gathered safely, because without them, it would be impossible to bay a bongo in this environment. I know deep down that the solitary has heard it all and has fled at full speed. Now alerted, it won’t be easy to catch. But it’s still early, and we don’t have many days left in the trip. We have no choice but to pick up the trail and go on.

 

Two hundred meters after the drama, we realize that the animal has begun to run at full speed. The hunter asks me if we can still catch it. I explain that we need to try for a few more hours. The morale is a bit shaken, but we are still full of energy. The tracking continues.

 

At this point, the bongo is no longer feeding; it is seeking the most impenetrable spots. We must crouch, climb over fallen trees, crawl, and avoid the thorny vines that tear at the skin. Although the trackers clear the way with machetes, the progress is slow and difficult. The body is being put to the test.

 

Now the bongo is walking with the wind at its back and leaps into a river, following it for a few hundred meters. It’s trying to outwit us; it’s very clever. We wade through water and mud up to our thighs. Soaked, we emerge from the swamp and fall into a column of ants. Thousands of ants moving, and of course, they climb on us and bite our legs. We run and jump, but they are everywhere, within thirty meters of the group.

 

Some dive into the river, others strip off their pants to get rid of the ants. The torment is added to the hours of walking and the uncertainty of the chase. After several hours, our solitary bongo mixes its tracks with those of a herd… Is it a coincidence or yet another trick?

 

Thanks to the determination and patience of the pygmy trackers, we are able, after several minutes, to continue our journey. I glance at my watch—five hours of pursuit, and our bongo shows no signs of fatigue, unlike the hunters and dogs. At this point, I don’t know what the hunter is thinking. I avoid looking at him or asking questions.

 

The suffering is real… I know the trackers will not give up, but I think about the hours of walking back and dread the thought of facing the jungle at night. The steps are heavy and uncertain; roots and vines trip us up. We must accept and push beyond our comfort zone, continue deeper into the forest.

 

After six hours of walking, we find ourselves at the footstep of a mountainous area with steep, slippery slopes. Robert, my faithful tracker, looks at me and says, “It’s going to stop at the top; it’s not too far now.” I’m convinced the solitary is going to climb to the top of its domain, find a thick thicket, lie down, and chew cud while watching for danger.

 

The small hunting party stops to rest before the final rush. We gather the dogs, who immediately fall asleep. The usually talkative pygmies are silent. While smoking their cigarettes, I see the weariness in their faces. Do they doubt the outcome of this hunt?

 

I don’t know, and I don’t ask. I know deep down that everyone is physically drained, and I also know the return will be a nightmare.

 

The slope is so steep that the beautiful striped antelope climbs in zigzags… we must grab onto shrubs to avoid sliding down the slope on our stomachs… calves and thighs burn, breath is short, and temples throb. At the top, we must stop to recover.

 

The summit is made up of exceedingly dense, almost impenetrable vegetation. The vines entangle us, blocking our path. Again, we must climb over, duck, and cut through quietly. The wind is blowing slightly in our direction. Robert is at the front, and we follow closely behind. The dogs walk around us as if they know the end is close.

 

Suddenly, the small lead female with red fur raises her nose and darts off at full speed, taking the rest of the pack with her. We hear the bongo fleeing in a cacophony of leaves and branches. The dogs catch up and bay the bongo. Despite the fatigue, they stand strong against the aggressive bongo. It is the final rush for the hunters. We run as best we can through the vines, which scratch our arms and faces. A tunnel opens between the low branches, and the solitary is there, head lowered, facing the dogs. The hunter calmly raises his rifle to his shoulder, he’s side-on, ten meters away. The shot went off with a deafening echo.

 

The beautiful antelope collapses, struck down. It has come to offer itself to the hunters at the highest point of its territory, as if to honor its memory and make way for another bull. A group of turacos sings in the tall trees.

 

The hugs between the men are sincere, warm, full of brotherhood and respect. Everyone realizes how intense the effort has been. It is time for photos and to skin the animal. All the meat is loaded into baskets made on-site using vines. Each load weighs over 40 kg. I try to dissuade Robert, Oscar, Diky, Rodrigue, and the old Bado from carrying such heavy loads, but nothing works.

 

Only the stomach contents are left behind. I don’t know where they find the strength for this, as we still have several hours of walking to reach the 4×4. The GPS shows the vehicle is 11 kilometers away in a straight line. The return mission seems almost impossible since we need to clear a path through the jungle, which would take far too long. We decide to head towards the Baï Baboundou, four kilometers away. From there, we have a trail about nine kilometers long to the vehicle. It’s hard to express how harsh and exhausting the first part to the meadow was. We had to clear the path with machetes. The trackers, loaded like mules, keep stumbling under the weight, and the ropes of the vine baskets break regularly. We have to redo everything and keep going—walking, ducking, climbing, it’s just torture.

 

Our soaked pants hinder our movements. Once on the trail, each root becomes an insurmountable obstacle. The difficulty is at its peak, and there is no more pleasure. Again, the rain joins in, adding even more challenge to our ordeal. I remember suffering during a Derby eland hunt in the Central African Republic, but not to this extent. The environment in which the bongo lives is so difficult that it puts both body and morale to the test.

 

It’s 7 p.m., and night has already fallen when we reach the vehicle. That’s over 13 hours of effort. The last pygmies arrive 30 minutes later. I thank and congratulate each of them. The arrival at camp is around 8:30 p.m. The day lasted sixteen hours…

 

We are exhausted, but the hunter is still smiling. His good humor kept us going throughout this memorable day. I thank him for his trust and to have endured such an effort.

Is this the most physically and mentally difficult hunt of my career? Yes

Are we exhausted? Yes

Did we enjoy it? No

Are we happy? Yes

Would we do it again? No (and yet the story will unfold such that we will return to these hills)

Are we proud of this experience? Yes

Does big game hunting deserve to be this tough? I don’t think so.

 

Before everyone heads to bed, I take my loyal tracker, Robert, by the shoulder to thank him once again. He simply says, “We should never go there again, it’s too far, it’s where the turacos sing.”

Africa Keeps Luring Me Back

The Bergzicht team poses with my waterbuck.

By Aleen Kienholz

 

In October 2020, I was signed up for a photo safari to Kenya and Tanzania and then a follow-up hunt back at Bergzicht Game Lodge in Namibia. The Covid pandemic nixed my travel plans along with those of thousands of others, and worldwide air travel nearly ground to a halt. We managed a salmon and halibut fishing trip to Elfin Cove, Alaska that June, but masks and Covid tests were an integral part of it, and the lodge was running at less than 20% capacity. We took photos of king salmon wearing the ubiquitous blue masks.

 

Covid protocols were still in effect when I finally flew back to Namibia in late August 2021, but it was more of an annoyance than a danger. Frankfurt airport was very quiet and the lounges and most of the shops were closed. When I got back “home” to Bergzicht, PH Steph Joubert was up north with Italian clients. The father had already taken the Big Five and was hunting hippo and crocodile to complete the Deadly Seven, so owner and PH Hannes Du Plessis was my hunting and photography guide.

 

I had a prioritized list of species that I wanted to take, but anyone who has spent much time hunting knows that a plan is merely an outline and is not written in stone. We started out looking for a nice gemsbok for a rug and a skull mount. If you read my previous article titled If Only We Had More Wall Space, you could correctly assume that we had nowhere in the whole house to put a shoulder mount. Ah, and the gemsbok were skittish and consistently vacated an area before we could even think about trying a stalk in mostly open country.

 

Hannes stopped so that I could photograph an old warthog. He just stood there, so I took him as my first trophy of the trip. One of the effects of a bad drought between my first hunt here in 2018 and this one was that warthog numbers were way down. Efforts to control black-backed jackal numbers had enhanced the nesting success of ostrich, and their numbers were way up. No matter what we do, both action and inaction have consequences, but I love learning more about ecological interactions.

 

My time at Bergzicht was limited, and I did not want to take up too much of it in pursuit of gemsbok, so the second morning we set out for the number two priority on my wish list: a nice representative waterbuck. Along the way, an old blue wildebeest with interesting horns posed for us. I asked the trackers if he was a good one and they replied in the affirmative, so I set down the camera and picked up the rifle. He bolted before I could set up for a shot. Smart old boy. He soon disappeared into the heavy brush. The trackers set out to follow him, keeping in touch by radio, and Hannes and I moved to what might work as an intercept position. It didn’t work.

Even a bachelor impala can be impressive.

Eventually we found a small group of brindled gnus in more open country, and Hannes coached me on which one to shoot. The photo brown lenses in my glasses were so dark from the sun that I was having trouble with the sight picture through the scope. I did not make as good a shot as I normally would, and he ran off with the right leg broken close to the body. That rattled me and more shots were required, but eventually, the old boy was ours. I was astounded to learn that it was the very same animal that we had started out tracking a long way back. Those guys are amazing. The bull’s face was full of battle scars and his incisors were well worn. He eventually made a beautiful rug, and his painted skull hangs in our stairwell. A gemsbok was now OFF my hunting wish list.

 

The Italians had early success and were now back at the lodge. They would continue to hunt with Steph. On the third morning, Hannes and I again headed out in search of waterbuck. We had not driven very far into their preferred habitat before I saw a beautiful bull standing broadside to us. We set up quickly, and I got him in my sights, but I took those dark glasses off first. A gentle squeeze on the trigger, and he dropped in his tracks. Hannes approached him carefully with rifle in hand to make sure that he was dead, always respectful of those wicked horns. He was not terribly old, but was one of the best specimens ever taken on the property. 

Hannes approached him carefully with rifle in hand to make sure that he was dead, always respectful of those wicked horns. He was not terribly old, but was one of the best specimens ever taken on the property. Even though I had NO idea where I could put him, he was prepped for a shoulder mount. I am not fond of the customary tradition of posing with the quarry, but they use some photos for advertising, and I am happy to help with that. I prefer to photograph that experienced team of PH and trackers with the trophy animal. They do so much to make these hunts successful.

 

That afternoon we hunted on a different portion of the property and I was equally lucky to connect with a lovely black impala. He was all by himself and had worn horn tips. If he ever HAD been a harem master, his chances of ever breeding again were very low. He was past his prime, but he was so beautiful. He would also be a shoulder mount. I spent the balance of the afternoon with Steph and the Italians in pursuit of a waterbuck for the son. Along the way, I got great photos of zebra, giraffe, eland and kudu. I was having a wonderful time. We also checked a bait and trail camera that had been set up to lure in brown hyena. Both a leopard and a hyena were caught on camera well after sundown, dining individually on a kudu haunch. A blind was built nearby for the father’s evening hunt for the hyena. (That was successful, but that is the Italian’s story, not mine.)

 

The next morning Hannes and I were looking for red hartebeest. We approached one herd and then another, but they were as skittish as the gemsbok had been. The tracker again did a phenomenal job of discerning the hartebeest tracks from all the other hoof prints in dry soil. We would see them and then lose them, see them again and then lose them again. They finally settled down once they got behind a screen of trees over 200 yards away, but they were not relaxed enough to resume grazing. We waited. I had the scope positioned with a nice view of the edge of the trees. Again, Hannes had his binoculars on the herd and was advising me of their movements. When a lone bull stepped into view, I held over the vitals and pulled the trigger. Again, the animal dropped in his tracks. Like my wildebeest, this fellow had a somewhat funky set of horns. I am normally drawn to symmetry, but I really liked that old bull.

These blesbok rams spent very little time in camera range.

Southern giraffe cow and calf.

I photographed this sable bull again in 2024, and though his horns were then shorter, he was still impressive.

Now the only thing left in my hunting Bucket List for this trip was a springbok, preferably a copper. On the drive the next morning to another part of the property, we found ourselves paralleling a lovely quartet of gemsbok bulls well within shooting range. I just started to laugh. Of course, they were available when I was no longer hunting them! I am a strong believer in the vagaries of Murphy’s Law. Hannes stopped so that I could start taking photos, and all four bulls crossed right in front of us, one at a time, and then stood and watched us from light cover. One of my very favorite photos from the trip has one bull caught in the phase of his elongated trot where all four feet are off the ground.

 

As I had before, I planned to make all of my edited photos available for their advertising needs, be it their website or Facebook. I had asked Hannes’s daughter, Marie Louise, which animal she would must like me to photograph. Blesbok. That is usually easier said than done. When we found a small group that offered a few quick photos, I took advantage of them. Then Hannes noticed a lone copper ram standing broadside ahead of us. I again set down the camera and picked up the rifle. I had to shoot through a screen of grass, but the hit was fatal and the little antelope did not go far. I knew that we could find space on the walls for a shoulder mount that size. It was a warm day, so we took him back to the skinning shed and relaxed over a nice lunch and a glass of wine.

 

That afternoon they dropped off a tracker, me and my camera in a storage building overlooking a waterhole and feeding troughs. It took very little time before the area wildlife filtered back in to eat and drink. First it was the nyala, more of them than I had ever seen before. Then it was the tsessebe. The biggest shock was when herd of sable came in together. There must have been five dozen of them, everything from the year’s calves to young bulls and old veterans. The horns of the herd bull were so long that he had worn marks both through his mane and across his shoulders. Wow. I have made many trips to Yellowstone National Park for photography, but I told Hannes that those few hours sitting by an open window exceeded all of those experiences for productivity. I took over 300 photos and had more work to do, editing them on my laptop computer.

 

The next morning, we did photography closer to the lodge. Among other things, I got nice photos of white blesbok, a leucistic color phase. Bergzicht has four colors of springbok and offers a springbok slam. That morning I completed it my way, with photos. Then we went back to the storage shed. I was again sitting on a cooler by the window, with plenty of water and a big lunch at my disposal. It was HOT, but it was worth it. Many of the same cast of characters came by, plus young warthogs, impala, a few copper springboks, and a pair of blesbok rams. Like an old hunting dog, one was speckled with white beyond his white blaze. Before the tracker and I got picked up for the drive back to the lodge, a nice herd of red lechwe were approaching.

Again, I had over 300 photos to edit. It would not be easy to choose which photos to put into another photo book, and which to leave out. What a trip it had been.

 

Obed took me out for photos on my last full day in Namibia, and we saw a variety of birds, golden oryx (a leucistic gemsbok), black impala, roan, nyala, sable, kudu, giraffe and steenbok. Bergzicht also offers a masked slam, and I now had photos of all four of those antelope too.

 

 

I spend far more time looking through the camera lens than the rifle scope, but both count as “hunting” to me.

This gemsbok bull was momentarily suspended above the road.

Yellowstone has been compared to the Serengeti, but wild Africa is more diverse. Here is my black impala.

This is the first roan antelope that I ever photographed in Africa.

My funky red hartebeest made me smile.

Getting back home again required another Covid test clearance, and airports were still rather quiet. I did not book another hunt right then, but I went back to Bergzicht again in March 2024 so that I could photograph a lot of antelope babies, both on the hunting property and up at Mount Etjo Safari Lodge. Steph helped me to check off all six species on my hunting list for that trip, and I got so many photos that I had to create TWO photo books, one for each lodge. I cannot speak Afrikaans of course, but Google Translate is a helpful tool. The cover of my 2021 photo book says, Ek is lief vir Afrika. Dit besit deel van my siel…or “I love Africa. It possesses part of my soul.” And it always will.

If only we had more wall space…

A black wildebeest was my first plains game trophy.

I am strolling down Memory Lane again with a smile on my face. My six trophies just arrived this morning from my third hunting trip to Bergzicht Game Lodge in Namibia. Every year our house looks more and more like a hunting lodge. We like it that way. It has been a very gradual process. Our wall space and floor space are now so limited that we need to be creative on what we take down, what we put up, and how it is arranged. But let me back up a few decades.

 

I did not grow up in Africa, but it has always called to me. I still watch every BBC and National Geographic special on its lands, people and wildlife. It never grows old. I read Robert Ruark’s Horn of the Hunter before I even became a hunter. My Dad taught me to shoot as a young teen, but I became a huntress in the company of my husband and our friends when we were in college in the early 70s. For decades we hunted white-tailed and mule deer in several states for meat but not for trophies. One of our adages back then was, “you can’t eat antlers”.

 

We both got degrees in biology, and Ron was a self-employed professional taxidermist for over thirty years. Other people’s hunting trophies were therefore part of our income stream, but we did not personally engage in that aspect of hunting. Until we retired and moved to Montana in 2001, we did not even consider making trophy hunting for anything a priority in our lives. There were too many other things to see and do and places to go. Africa never called to Ron. He frequently said that if he could not go to Africa as it was in 1950, he wasn’t interested. Science Fiction time travel aside, that outlook made no sense to me. So, I went on my own. I took out a loan and did a photo safari in Kenya in 1992. That was well before digital cameras and smart phones, when the World Wide Web and personal computers were still technological babies.

 

By the time that I went on my second African photo safari to Zambia in 2014, I was at least in the digital age, and the experience was magical. So yes, wildlife photography also preceded trophy hunting. But I am inching closer to that transition.

 

We had our first trophy hunt in Austria in 2017. In May 2018, a couple of long-time bird- and deer- hunting friends were making a return trip to Bergzicht Game Lodge, and I tagged along with my old Nikon camera and my new 150-600 mm lens. I had no plan to hunt for anything. One of my friends was only after jackal and baboon on this trip, so I rode with the other fellow who had a longer list of desired plains game. On a hunting trip, a mere photographer accedes to the agenda of the hunter in the vehicle. That was OK too, but I saw so many things that I wanted to stop and photograph! One day I borrowed my friend’s rifle to shoot a red hartebeest that was causing problems by fighting through a fence with another bull. He was in a buffer strip between the hunting lands and the neighboring property that ran cattle. PH Steph Joubert put the range finder on him when he stopped running from us, and he was standing broadside about 300 yards away. Although we had all been instructed to hold in line with the front leg, I had hunted for over forty years holding just behind the front leg, and I defaulted to that automatically. It was OK. I took out both lungs and the cull animal died quickly. Steph and the tracker were both impressed with the shot. Now I had the itch to pull the trigger on trophies of my own. Years ago, I saw a quote about how everything in Africa bites, but the worst of all was the Safari Bug. It’s true. That is how it happened to me. I was still taking photos at every opportunity, but I also set my sights on shooting a black wildebeest and a nyala.

 

I know that many hunters go on and on about the make and caliber of their rifles and the particulars of the loads that they shoot, but to me a rifle is a tool. You just need the right one for the job, and the skill, judgment and patience to use it accurately. I have one rifle at home, a Browning .270 that was a gift from my father. I did not bring a rifle to Namibia, so on the sensibly obligatory trip to the rifle range, I was shooting a borrowed gun. I cannot even tell you what it was. I can only say that it was easy to use and did the job. It was time to hunt.

 

When we reached an open area with many black wildebeest in view, we left the vehicle behind and started walking single file through the short, dry grass. Steph went first with the shooting sticks, and I followed close behind with the rifle. I lost track of how many times I set the rifle on the shooting sticks only to have a solitary bull bound further away or into the herd, waving his glorious blonde tail and kicking up his heels. We would spot another loner and head in his direction, but I never had that extra fraction of a second to get the crosshairs on target and pull the trigger. Finally, there was a bull standing still and quartering toward us at about 250 yards. I held just right of center low on his chest to catch both heart and lungs and pulled the trigger. He did not go far, and I had my very first African trophy. That taxidermy mount now hangs in an upstairs bedroom. I give him a pat on the nose every now and then. A wildebeest in the bedroom? Remember, I told you we are very short on wall space.

 

Although eight hours a day might be spent hunting, that still left plenty of time to enjoy the meals and the ambience back at the lodge. Wild game featured heavily in the menu, and I loved that. We even had a chance to sample choice cuts from animals taken that week. For one dinner appetizer, Steph grilled blue wildebeest tenderloins over acacia coals, and they practically melted in your mouth. I also learned that he was quite a joker. He photo-bombed a picture that I was taking of my hunting partners at the dinner table before I even knew what that behavior was called. How was he as a PH? Great. He knew the property. He knew the wildlife and their behavior. He knew how to set up for a good shot. Experience counts, and he demonstrated that he had it in spades. I wish that he would write an article for AHG!

 

What I wanted next was a nyala. That species captivated me the first time that I ever saw one hanging on a friend’s wall…so beautiful. That herd was being built up at the time, and owner Hannes DuPlessis had very few that he was willing to have taken. He allotted two days for that hunt. We patrolled the hunting area in two vehicles, working to spot a suitable nyala or at least find a set of fresh tracks. That was also one of those times when a desired photo op flashed by before I could even say “stop, please”. We drove right by a pair of bat-eared foxes, the first ones that I had ever seen outside of a zoo. I was already thinking that I would have to come back some day, so I put bat-eared fox photos in my Bucket List. Before long Hannes radioed Steph to say that they were following a nice nyala that had just lost his status of herd bull that morning to a younger challenger. Once we were in the right area, we got fleeting glimpses of that bull, but he would disappear behind a screen of large shrubs before I could get the crosshairs on him. Eventually the trackers set out to follow him on foot, and we set up in what we hoped would be an intercept position. Suddenly there he was, walking in our direction. Steph wanted me to wait for a standing broadside shot, but there was no guarantee that it was going to happen. He could just as easily have slipped away in the cover once again. Lines of sight were very limited. As he kept walking, I put the crosshairs on his chest much as I had done for the black wildebeest, and I pulled the trigger. He dropped in his tracks. I was thrilled. As he was being set up for the customary photos of a successful hunt, I could not stop smiling. I was so grateful to the owner, my PH, and the trackers who had made that moment possible. I laid my hand on his forehead, a gesture of respect for the life that I had just taken. I stroked his side, admiring the markings. When Hannes checked his teeth, the wear on his lower incisors showed that he was an old guy. He had been in a lot of battles in his life. His hide was full of old scars plus the new marks from the fight that he had just lost. Back at the lodge, all of the guys kept asking me what I wanted to hunt next or offering suggestions for what they felt I should hunt. Kudu? No. I had too much affection for that regal antelope to kill one. Gemsbok? No. There was still the issue of mount size and wall space. Where could I put a big antelope with big horns? We had already been taking down artwork to make room for trophies from Austria. For the rest of my stay at Bergzicht I only took photos, but I knew that I had to come back some day. The Safari Bug had bitten me, and I was firmly under Africa’s spell.

 

I went back to Bergzicht by myself in both August 2021 and March 2024, hunting again with both camera and rifle, but those adventures and successes are a story for another time. I know that a lot of African hunters and guides frown upon hunting from a vehicle or within any size of enclosure delimited by fences. In my opinion and based upon my experiences, fair chase is not a “one size fits all” code of conduct. Is shooting a white-tailed deer from a hunting stand more ethical than taking an African antelope from a parked vehicle? That is a fine line. I do not condemn others for having different hunting goals or methods from mine. For me, hunting ethics have a core of following the law wherever you hunt, minimizing an animal’s suffering, and of making safety the top priority of every outing. One shot. One kill. It is not something that I have achieved every time that I seek to put meat in the freezer at home, or cross an ocean to hunt in another habitat, but it is true most of the time. Non-hunters don’t understand that the hunt is so much more than just the killing. It is the sights and sounds and smells and sensations that just make you feel more alive, and sharing it with folks who appreciate all of it as much as you do is integral to the whole experience. If I ever lose that twinge of regret when my quarry is lying dead at my feet, that animal that I both desire and respect, then it will be time to quit hunting. I am 74 and I have not reached that point yet. If only we had more wall space!

The face of the red hartebeest was scarred from fighting through a fence with a rival bull.

The photo of a young blue wildebeest scrambling to catch up to Mom was one of my favorites.

Another spectacular Namibian sunrise.

Hannes posed with me and my lovely old nyala.

This young kudu bull was heading for higher ground.

Silhouette of a secretary bird.

One for the Road

Masailand, 2006.  A scene that could have occurred in 1906, or 1806, or… But memories are more real than any photograph.

By Terry Wieland

 

Dreaming, Remembering, Reliving

 

Three levels of fantasy

 

In a column for Esquire in 1935, called “Monologue to the Maestro: A High Seas Letter,” Ernest Hemingway reflected on the mechanics of writing and, in particular, how to recreate action so as to have your reader experience it as you did.

 

The key, he told the Maestro— “Mice,” for short, a young man who’d traveled to Key West to seek advice from the master—is to relive the event, isolate the specific thing that caused your emotion and, if you then describe it truly enough, you will evoke the same emotion in your reader.  Hemingway’s example was watching the fishing line strip as a big fish ran, and the line rising into the air and squeezing out the water so it hung in drops, refracting the sunlight.

 

I read that first in 1977—I can remember exactly where and when, but I won’t belabor it—and took it to heart as I attempted to write serious literature in the years that followed.  First, I learned that reliving, and simply remembering, are two different things.  Those who relive and then recreate, on paper, are a world away from those who merely remember and describe.

 

For the record, the former is exhausting.  At the end of a morning, you may be completely wrung out and have one short paragraph to show for it. The latter is considerably less taxing, depending on the writer’s determination to do it well, which is why we have good writers, bad writers, and those who should never touch a keyboard.

 

In 1988, I hunted Alaska brown bears on Montague Island and, some months later, attempted to recreate the incident in a magazine article.  It entailed less than 60 seconds of action as the bear came in fast, responding to a deer call, and finally dropped, five shots later, with its neck broken.  In attempting to relive that event, I learned that one can, through a process almost of self-hypnosis, relive something but (in my case at least) one can do it only three times.  After the third time, it becomes merely remembering.

 

Something similar occurred, attempting to relive a very hot few moments with a Cape buffalo high on Mount Longido in 1993.

 

Sometime in the early 1970s, Gene Hill, who wrote for Guns & Ammo and later for Field & Stream, made a safari in Kenya.  He loved Africa, and after he got home he kept his bags still partly packed with his Africa gear, just in case he got a last-minute invitation to return.  This remained in his closet until after Kenya closed hunting in 1977 and he knew he would never go back—not, at least, to the places he’d been and remembered with a fondness so fierce it resembled Humbert Humbert’s feelings for Lolita.

 

Hill, an extremely gifted writer, wrote about finally unpacking his things, surrendering to the reality that the dream could never come true.  Not now.  The Kenya he’d hunted, and experienced, and grown to love, was gone.  All he had left were dreams.  At least, he called them dreams.

 

Reading that piece, now almost 50 years later, I began reflecting on the difference between dreams—anticipation of things that may never come—and memories—recollection of things that really happened.  And, finally, the reliving of an event the way Hemingway described it.

 

As age has crept up on me, I find myself, usually in the early afternoon, feeling the need to sprawl in a nice chair and close my eyes, just for a bit.  Very rarely do I actually fall asleep, so this hardly qualifies as the much-storied “nap.”  I do, however, descend the cosmic stairs toward nap-dom, one step at a time, and occasionally enter a realm, in the infinitesimal interface between sleeping and waking, that is like time travel.

 

It’s not a dream and it’s never long; it’s a snatch, a snippet—a glimpse at a real place, that I really experienced, years before.  The glimpse is brief, but so intense as to be almost painful.  The water of the lake is real water, the smell of the juniper is real, and the ferns in the hot sun.  Rarely is there any action, just a vivid image lasting only seconds, after which I always jerk back to consciousness, and I am often panting.

 

Never having been hypnotized, I can’t say if this is similar.  From what I’ve read, it appears to be.  Sometimes I can sort of will it to happen, but more often as I drift off my mind wanders and suddenly, there I am—in a tent in Africa in the early morning, with the ever-present cooing of doves, or walking into a biltong shop in Pretoria and smelling the droewors.  And the smell of treated canvas, like old tents?  Back in the army, back in a campground at the age of eight, back in the Okavango.  Could be any of them.  Ah, but that old canvas smell!

 

Sometimes it can be sparked by a whiff of gunpowder or, more usually, a spice.  The merest sniff of cumin and other, mysterious, spices can put me back in the open market in Kampala in 1971— a world that has truly disappeared—and the smell of creosote, well, we won’t go into that.  But if you can’t imagine creosote as an aphrodisiac, think again.

 

The most famous instance of this phenomenon in literature is Marcel Proust and his taste of a madeleine cake dipped in lime tea that brought forth all the memories recounted in Remembrance of Things Past—all seven wondrous volumes—and in the outdoor field, closer to home, Robert Ruark’s The Old Man and the Boy series in Field & Stream in the 1950s.

 

Memories sparked by an aroma are, of course, a different thing than the deliberate drawing of one’s self back into an event in order to isolate the emotional center, à la Hemingway.  In that case, I found, if you do it only twice, leaving the third and last time for a later date, then you always have it, like a diamond tucked away for safe keeping.  It’s always available to be taken out and relived, but you never do it, because then you wouldn’t have it anymore.

 

This is, I know, a long way from Gene Hill’s Field & Stream column about dreaming of Africa, and remembering, and—in his case—regretting that which once was and would never be again.

 

The truth is, and I hate having to quote Thomas Wolfe, who wrote only one memorable thing in his word-drenched life, and that a title, but you can’t go home again.  No, really, you can’t.  Many have tried, and maybe that’s why children today never want to leave home in the first place.  But once gone, we quickly learn that what we left ceased to exist the moment we left it.

 

My Kampala of 1971, or Nairobi of 1972, or even, most recently, 1999.  The Okavango in 1990?  The Rift in 2006?  Gawd, I even remember when downtown Johannesburg was a pleasant place, and the Carlton Hotel in the center of town, with its pinball arcade in the bottom floor, attracted the little black African kids off the street, and they would challenge us to pinball matches and always win.  They were pinball wizards worthy of The Who, and I learned a few words of Xhosa and Zulu, long since buried, and I wonder where they are now?

 

One time, I caught a whiff of woodsmoke and was instantly transported to a campfire outside Gaborone, grilling mutton on sticks.  I want to say the wood then was acacia, and there are varieties of acacia in America, so the firewood must have been some of that.  Where it came from I have no idea, and it passed as quickly as it came.  More’s the pity.

 

Speaking of wood, sand a piece of walnut and you’ll find me back in my parents’ basement in the 1960s, refinishing the stock on a Cooey .22.  Or melt some linotype for bullets and I’ll be in the composing room of the newspaper where I started out way back when, and everything will be bright in spring and everything will be possible, because that’s the way it is when you’re 19.

 

They say your sense of smell is the strongest link to memory, and I have found nothing to dispute that.  Hearing—music—is a distant second, while sight and touch do not figure at all.

 

What I’ve learned from all this is that our memories long outlast even the most pleasurable experience.  They are a world, however, that most people never bother to really, truly, explore.  Which is unfortunate cuz, I hate to tell you, eventually that’s all you’ll have, and a little practice ahead of time never hurts.  It’s all I have left of the Africa I knew.

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