Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 20. Understanding The Shotgun

New shooters being introduced to the shotgunning sport may find the many terms and techniques rather confusing, with words like ‘load’, ‘bore’, ‘gauge’, ‘choke’ and others bandied about by more experienced shooters without explanation. Let me attempt to clarify these terms.

The sporting shotgun is usually of three types: firstly, the double-barrel, either side-by-side (s x s) or over-and-under (o/u) configuration. Secondly, there is the single-barrel, singleshot and thirdly, the single-barrel, multi-shot, either pump (or slide) action, or auto- (self-) loader. Just to muddy the waters, there is also the combination, which is a shotgun barrel (or barrels) with a rifle barrel. These are more popular in Europe than in South Africa.

Most sport shooting or field sports favour the double-barrel, with the over-and-under design being more popular nowadays. The side-by-side version is more traditional and there are many shooters, especially the older generation, who still prefer this style. The side-by-side usually has a slimmer, sleeker action and is lighter to carry and use over long periods in the field than the over-and-under. These are ideal for waterfowl and terrestrial game bird-hunting.

Because of the barrel configuration, the over-and-under has a deeper, bulkier action, is heavier and is therefore able to withstand heavier loads or charges than the side-by-side. This allows it to contend with more sustained shooting volumes, such as done in clay target-shooting.

Double-barrel guns come in two main action designs. The box lock is a shorter action and appears more truncated at the rear, with its strikers, springs and working parts all housed inside the action body. Box locks are easier to manufacture and generally more robust. The side lock is more intricate and labour-intensive to manufacture, with its firing mechanisms and springs individually pinned to separate side plates extending rearwards behind the standing breech of the gun. These side locks provide extended flat outer surfaces to allow for extensive engraving, especially scenic engraving, making them a popular choice for best-quality guns. However, this is not to say that the box lock is in any way inferior.

A side-by-side shotgun with sidelocks.

An over-and-under box lock shotgun.

American sportsmen generally favour semi-auto and pump action guns for waterfowl and upland bird-shooting, but in the UK and South Africa, these are not readily accepted in shooting circles. This is mainly for safety reasons, as a double is visibly safe when the action is open, which is not the case with a pump and auto-loader. These have magazines which can normally take about five cartridges, but in terms of South African regulations, they must be plugged to accept only two rounds. Multi-shot pump guns are mainly used by law enforcement and security services in South Africa.

Just a point on safety: I remember an incident where a group of us were on a bird shoot. One of the party was a man of continental extraction, who was using a semi-auto shotgun. We had returned to the vehicles for a welcome coffee and a sandwich and noticed that his gun was leaning against the car with the action closed. When asked if it was unloaded, he assured us that it was, and promptly picked it up and pulled the trigger. With a loud bang, a shot went off, fortunately into the air.

Everyone was shocked, not least the owner of the gun. Needless to say, he was never invited to a shoot again. This just proves the point of the danger of semi-auto and pump action guns.

Barrel length is a matter of purpose and personal preference. There is a common misconception that the longer the barrel, the further (or harder) the gun will shoot. Longer barrels are solely to add muzzle weight for balance and ‘swing’. Common sporting barrel lengths are 25-30” (63-76cm), with 28” (71cm) being the most versatile for all-round use. Dedicated clay target-shooters normally opt for longer barrels. In my experience, barrels of 30-32” (76-81cm) appear to deliver a downward muzzle ‘flip’, while barrels of 25-27” (63-69cm) seem to give an upward ‘flip’. The 28” barrels are more stable, with no significant muzzle ‘flip’.

The distance and spread of the shot charge are determined by the degree of choke, and not the barrel length. It is not clear who first came up with the idea and design for the choke on shotgun barrels to give various spreads of pellets, but it is known that Alexander Pape first patented the design in England in 1886. Thereafter, WW Greener went on to improve and develop chokes on his guns. The choke is the constriction within the last section of the muzzle which concentrates the shot pellets. A full choke has a tighter constriction and gives a tighter pattern, resulting in denser shot patterns for longer range. True cylinder means no restriction at all, allowing the shot to spread more widely after leaving the barrel muzzle. 100 The most popular and versatile chokes for all-round shooting are improved cylinder for closer shots and modified choke for longer shots. Many modern guns come with a set of normally five interchangeable screw-in choke tubes, rendering the gun suitable for any type of shooting and range required.

The term ‘bore’ is derived from the age-old English tradition, whereas ‘gauge’ is an American term meaning the same. The bore or gauge of the barrel is calculated from the number of pure round lead spheres or balls of equal size which fit through the barrel and which, together, would weigh 1lb (454g). Where 12 balls of 0,729” (18,5mm) diameter (the diameter of a 12-bore barrel) weigh 1lb, the gun is a 12-bore. Twenty smaller balls of 0,617” (15mm) diameter would denote a 20-bore gun. Obviously, the numerical bore designation increases as the bore becomes smaller. Nowadays shotgun bores or gauges for all practical purposes are mainly 10-bore, 12-bore, 16-bore, 20-bore and 28-bore, which are popular sizes. An exception is the .410 shotgun, which is not a bore designation, but is a calibre and is the actual barrel diameter measured in inches.

Chamber lengths also deserve a measure of understanding. Many older guns (roughly pre-WWII) have chamber lengths of 2½” (65mm) and longer cartridges must not be used in these guns. They may seem to fit into the chamber, but when they are fired, the crimp opens into the forcing cone, which is a restriction ahead of the chamber at the start of the actual barrel. This can cause raised pressure to dangerous levels. Most modern guns have chambers of 2¾” (70mm) and some guns may be chambered for magnum loads of 3” (76mm).

Let us have a brief look at cartridges and loads. (These will be covered in detail in a following chapter.) Today most shot cartridges have a metal case head (base and rim) and the walls of the case are made of plastic with a fold or ‘star’ crimp at the mouth. Varnished paper cases are available for those traditionalists who enjoy the nostalgia of shooting vintage-type loads in vintage guns. Pellet size in game bird or clay target loads is usually numbered from number 9 shot, which is small (2mm) to about number 3 shot (3,3mm) or even number 1 shot (3,7mm). The larger pellets are usually used for hunting geese and larger birds. There are tables available showing recommended shot sizes for use on various game birds. As a rule of thumb, 8, 7½ and 7 are usually used for clay target doves and pigeons, 5 and 6 for terrestrial game birds and duck, and 3 and 4 for geese and waterfowl. Generally, 5 and 6 shot sizes are a good all-round compromise. Shot loads are normally shown in grams, being the weight or mass of pellets in a load. A 28g load (1oz) of number 6 shot would have about 270 pellets in the cartridge. Most game loads are 28-32g, with 34g being a heavier game load. Obviously, the bigger the shot size, the fewer pellets will be in the load. It is generally acknowledged that pattern kills, so the more pellets striking the bird or target, the higher the chance of a kill. Larger pellets mean less dense patterns and a higher chance of a lost bird. Until recently, most modern cartridges had a plastic cup wad enclosing the pellets, which effectively improved shot patterns and reduced bore leading. Nowadays, though, many game loads are being loaded with biodegradable fibre wads, which are environmentally friendly, but open the patterns somewhat.

Much is said and written about being ‘gun-fit’. Unless you are sufficiently well-off to order a bespoke gun made to fit your personal physique, you will have to make do with the ‘average’ gun off the shelf. Fortunately, most leading gun manufacturers have done much research into the measurements of the average person and the guns are manufactured by CNC process to fit most shooters, without much alteration.

The most common problem with a gun off the shelf is stock length (length of pull). This is measured from the front surface of the trigger to the rearmost centre of the butt-plate or recoil pad. If this is too long, it can be shortened by a competent stock-maker by cutting a slice off the butt end of the stock. If it is too short, the stock-maker can add a spacer or thicker recoil pad to lengthen it, depending on the length of your arms and neck, as well as your shoulder width. Most other problems of fit can be adapted or corrected by good gun mounting and style. Muscle memory is wonderful and by ‘fitting yourself to your gun’ and continually practising correct gun mount, your shooting will improve dramatically.

A wise shooter once said: ‘Shooters will improve their shooting by using a gun with a shorter stock, more open chokes and a shorter barrel.’ Whichever gun you use, go to a shooting range and have an instructor check your hold, style and mount. Once you feel comfortable and know the right moves, stance and mount, go home and practise these over and over. Standing in front of a mirror can help. (Please make sure your gun is unloaded before you do this!) For dry-firing, invest in a good set of snap-caps or dummy cartridges, which will prevent firing pins or strikers from being damaged.

As with any expensive piece of equipment, a gun should be cleaned and oiled after use during the shooting season, and at least once or twice during storage in the off-season. A good cleaning kit and gun oil are essential for the maintenance of your firearm. There is a trend among some shooters of simply pulling a bore-snake (pull-through) through the 102 barrels after a shoot and then putting the gun away. This is highly inadvisable. Although the barrels may seem clean when one looks down them, there will be powder and lead residue which are not easy to see and could cause corrosion or damage. I suggest using a rod, brush, patches and woollen mop to give the barrels a thorough cleaning, followed by a light coat of oil. Wipe all the metalwork with a lightly oiled cloth. Do not spray a lot of oil into the action or barrels. Light oiling is all that is required, as too much oil is also detrimental, especially to the stock and wood. Use a cotton bud or small art-painting brush to get into the inner parts of the action and fore-end mechanisms to remove grass seeds, dust and other debris. Remember to oil under and around the safety catch. If sweat and moisture get under this, they can cause rust and seize the catch. Lightly wipe the wood with a good stock oil or stock wax once or twice a season, especially in wet weather, and again before long-term storage. A good idea is to wipe a light coating of petroleum jelly along the junctions of the wood and metal around the locks and action to prevent moisture or rain from getting into the action. When storing my guns in a safe, I enclose them in a good silicone oil-coated gun sock such as ‘Sack-Up’ or similar and then stand them muzzle-down to allow any excess oil to drain downwards to the barrels, rather than soak into the wood. Never store guns in a bag or case, as this may cause them to ‘sweat’ and rust.

Looking after your gun in this manner will ensure that they give trouble-free service for your lifetime and that of the next generation. Many guns well over 100 years old are still shooting as well today as the day they left the gun-maker’s bench.

Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 18. The Slug Gun

As I approached my mid-60s, I decided I would ‘retire’ from game hunting and concentrate on wingshooting. I have a passion for vintage and well-made side-by-side shotguns, and it gives me great pleasure to step into the veld with a gun that is over 100 years old and still shoots as well today as it did when it left the gun-maker’s bench.

This is the epitome of the gun-maker’s art. I sold my hunting rifles and kept a selection of favourite shotguns with which to pursue my chosen sport.

Winchester Model 37 slug gun after restoration.

In the areas where most of my wingshooting takes place, I often come across warthog and feral pigs which do a lot of damage to farmers’ crops, causing a loss of income for the landowner.

This sparked an interest in me to hunt these problem animals, but I had no gun appropriate for the task. Carrying a few rifled slug loads in a pocket while hunting birds was not an ideal solution, as these are not at all accurate in my vintage side-by-side shotguns and could be damaging to them. My thoughts turned to a dedicated slug gun.

During a visit to the Krugersdorp workshop of my good friend and gunsmith, Hennie Mulder, I mentioned that I was looking for an old single-barrel 12-bore shotgun such as a Harrington and Richardson, Stevens, Savage or similar to convert to a slug gun as a project.

I noticed a faraway look in Hennie’s eyes as he walked over to one of his storage safes. Scratching around in the deepest recesses, he produced an old, very rusty Winchester model 37 which he had taken into stock many years ago. He offered this old gun to me, saying that if it would serve the purpose, I could work on it in his workshop and he would help where he could.

Despite the exterior rusty and neglected look, the gun was in sound shooting condition. On dismantling it, we found a lot of rust and surface pitting on the outside of the barrel and action, but Hennie assured me that this could all be cleaned up. So a project was born.

The first order of business was for me to polish out the barrel with ISSO bore paste, bore solvent and a piece of ‘Scotch’ pad using a long rod and a drill. With a bit of hard work and elbow grease, the barrel was soon shining again, with extraordinarily few signs of pitting, and appeared to be in quite reasonable condition. Next was using the lathe to cut the 32” (81,28cm) barrel down to a manageable 25” (63,5cm) and carefully crown and polish the muzzle. This also served to remove the extra-full choke and turn it into a cylinder choke, which is ideal for optimum slug accuracy.

I had decided to fit a ghost-ring sight which would be tter for my tired old eyes, so I searched for through my boxes of old Magnum magazines and found some articles by Gregor Woods and Koos Barnard covering their ideas and experiences with these sights. I started cutting them out and filing them, and I soon had a couple of prototypes to try out. Hennie had a low-profile, front-sight ramp and bead sight which would serve nicely, but the ghost ring rear-sights I had made were not quite suitable. Scratching among some spares in Hennie’s storage trays, I found a sling swivel ring that I thought would make an ideal sight. At around 4mm, the aperture looked right and if we could find or make a base to mount it on, it would be ideal. Also among the spares, I found a sight base that someone had cut down, which could be adapted. The biggest problem was cutting the radii of the front- and rear-sight bases to match those of the barrel round where the mounting points would be. This was where Hennie’s expertise came to the fore. He carefully worked these down on a lathe until the fit was perfect. He then fixed these onto the barrel with Superglue as a temporary measure until we could bore-sight and test-shoot the gun.

The stock was a bit short and needed lengthening, so I added a recoil pad to bring the length of pull up to my required 14½” (36,8cm). Once this was done, I tackled the stripping and sanding of the stock and fore end, which took a lot of elbow grease. I then started filling, sealing and oiling to bring out the grain and give it a durable finish. I used Birchwood Casey’s True Oil, which I rubbed into the stock in very thin coatings, leaving it to dry and set for a day between applications. This was done over a period of about a week. Once I was happy with the seal and finish, I hand-rubbed a mixture of Schaftol and walnut oil into the wood, repeating it several times. I then polished it with a piece of oiled sheepskin. This took days of hard work, but the wood turned out looking good. Well worth the effort.

Hennie again came to the rescue with his expertise, doing a wrap-around checkering pattern at about 18 lines per inch to provide a good grip, since we figured the lightweight gun would produce a sharp recoil with slug loads. Before polishing and re-blueing, we went to the range to carry out a rough bore-sight and preliminary firing to ensure the sights were correctly positioned before soldering them into place. Hot Power Guns in Krugersdorp has a convenient indoor range that allowed us to test-fire at 25m, which we felt would give an indication of where the shots were going. We used SP Brenneke slugs, as well as African Rifled Slugs loaded with Borra slugs from Italy. These were remarkably similar to the old SP Penetrator slugs. These slugs produced a three-shot group measuring 3,5cm x 5cm. This was the first time I had used a ghost- ring sight and I was impressed with the quick target acquisition it facilitated.

The next and most time-consuming task was removing the rust and grime from the outer barrel, action, interior and flats, as well as all the other nooks and crannies, and then preparing the metalwork for blueing. Fortunately, Hennie offered the help of his able assistant, Sam, who did most of this work. Among his other areas of expertise, Sam was excellent at preparing the metalwork for the bluing tank, so I left this in his capable hands.

When the metalwork was done to satisfaction, Hennie applied his special rust-blueing formula which he used for his custom rifles and shotguns. This produces a deep, rich and durable gun-blue finish to the metalwork which protects it from rust and corrosion.

Well, finally, the hard work and the long wait paid off. The old gun, which had spent years in the back of Hennie’s gun safe rusting away, now had a new lease on life and had been 96 transformed from a dirty, rusty old ‘sow’s ear’ into a functional, good-looking and working ‘silk purse’, which can once again be taken with pride into the hunting field.

My grateful thanks go to Sam, whose draw filing and polishing of the metal to remove the rust and pitting brought it almost to a mirror finish, ready for the bluing tank. Without his hard work, the finish would not have turned out as well as it did. And, of course, my special thanks go to Hennie Mulder for his expert advice and help in achieving the final result of this interesting project.

All that is left now is to arrange a pig-hunt for the ultimate test!