One for the Road

By Terry Wieland

 

The Forest, the Trees, and Missing the Boat

 

A couple of years ago, I was part of a group pheasant hunting in North Dakota.  As with many of these gatherings, it was an eclectic crowd of writers, cameramen, and industry types.  One of the cameramen was a young guy, starting out in the business, and ecstatically happy to be invited anywhere at someone else’s expense.

 

Much of his time was spent quizzing one of the older writers about his time in Africa.  Now, this particular guy had been to Africa a half-dozen times, starting in the mid-1980s.  He’d been to Zambia early on, for about a week, and later spent time in Zimbabwe and South Africa.  I’ve known him for 20 years, and was interested to eavesdrop during dinner and see how he would present his experiences.

 

I should add that he’s from the Deep South, pushing 80, and retains some attitudes towards other races that most young people today would find highly questionable, if not downright repugnant.  More than that, though, was his eagerness to push his impressions from several once-over-lightly trips to Africa as being deep insights into the realities of the Dark Continent.  In fact, although he’d visited several countries, over about a 25-year period, he had spent no more than eight weeks total on the continent, and then had seen little more than airports and safari camps.

 

His loud view on Zimbabwe today was that it was, indeed, being mismanaged, but that conditions were not nearly as bad as were being presented.  He’d been there, after all, and hadn’t seen any shortages.

 

Well, naturally not.  Hunters being a serious source of very scarce foreign exchange, the authorities in Zimbabwe are anxious they not only be treated with some regard, but shielded from the realities of life in Harare and Bulawayo today.  After this particular discourse on modern African history, I asked him for particulars about his last trip.  How long?  Six days.  How much of Harare did you see?  Well, none.  My PH picked me up at the airport and we were in the bush that afternoon.  And after the hunting was over?  Straight back to the airport.

 

Obviously, modern life is different than life was 50 years ago.  Travel is faster.  Everyone makes a fetish of being constantly busy and unable to afford the time.  In 1908, a safari lasted six months to a year; by 1938, it was three months, and in the early 1950s, six weeks was a long time.  By then, though, air travel had already cut the time required to get there — and the early safaris were really long, not only because of the slowness of foot, or early motorized safaris, but because, having to spend three weeks or more on ships each way just getting to and from, it made no sense to spend less time actually in Africa than you spent on the ship.

 

In his 1967 book on big-game hunting, Jack O’Connor presented his credentials for writing about Africa, and calculated that, from his first safari in Kenya in 1953, he had spent a total of six and a half months in Africa, hunting in East Africa, Angola, and French Equatorial Africa.  Six months is a good long time.  I calculated my own total, starting from my first trip in 1971, and it added up to almost two years.  Granted, these were not all safaris.  The first ones were straight journalism — four months in Uganda and the Sudan, three months the following year in Kenya and Uganda, and two months in 1976 in South Africa and Rhodesia.  After that, whenever possible, if I was planning a trip to Africa I would build in as much activity as possible into as long a time as possible.  I became, to all intents and purposes, a temporary resident of South Africa, Botswana, or wherever.

 

Looking back on all that time, I find that my most prominent and vivid memories were less the hunting — although some certainly stand out! — than the time I spent living in grass huts, mud huts, in the old Indian quarter of Kampala, with the Masai in the Rift, or among the highway workers paving roads around the Okavango.  Two months on a remote farm in the wilds of the Orange Free State might not provide the most pleasant memories, but they are vivid none the less.

 

This is not to suggest that everyone should have the same experiences I have had.  Obviously, that’s not possible.  What bothers me, though, in the modern rush to “hunt Africa” is the common  desire to get in, shoot as much as possible in as little time as possible, and then get the hell out with a minimum of inconvenience, unpleasantness, or exposure to the actual people who live there.

 

From his first trip to Africa in 1951 until his death in 1965, Robert Ruark would spend months at a time in Kenya, or on safari in Mozambique, Uganda, or Tanganyika.  He developed a genuine love for many of the non-safari, non-hunting aspects of life in Africa, and it shimmers in his writing.  Although he was not here as much, and he was always limited to depicting his experiences in magazine articles, O’Connor had much the same attitude.  If he had been able to spend months at a time in Africa, I suspect his writing would have shown the same interest and insight as his many stories of hunting in Arizona and Sonora earlier in his life.

 

Obviously, modern life is not going to get any slower, but we all lead our own lives, and we all shape our own destinies.  Some shape them deliberately, others passively allow them to be shaped by others, which amounts to the same thing.  You can’t tell me that a man wealthy enough to fly to Africa for a two-week hunting trip cannot afford the time to build in an extra week to visit Stellenbosch and taste the wines, or take a few days in the beginning to visit Spion Kop.

 

Of course, to do that, you’d need to know about the attractions of sipping Pinotage, or the events that made Spion Kop a byword for military slaughter only eclipsed, 15 years later, by the Somme.  Too many people today make the trips, but the object of the game is not to see or learn anything, merely to show the people at home that they’ve been there, and to check it off their list.

 

More than any other single factor, it was reading Robert Ruark as a teenager that ignited my deep desire to see Africa and spend time there.  As I mentioned, my first three trips in 1971, ’72 and ‘76, which totalled nine months in six countries, I did not hunt a single thing.  When I was able to start hunting in Africa, in 1990, the focus became different, but then, so did the publications I was writing for.  Still, the hunting was an excuse to go back to Africa; it was not a case of being forced to make the distasteful and inconvenient trip to Africa in order to put a kudu head on the wall.

 

At dinner on the last night of the trip to North Dakota, with which I began this tale, my Deep-South acquaintance was holding forth yet again, this time on the quaint practices of the Masai.  He’d seen some at a distance on a four-day wingshooting trip to Kenya, and found them amusingly naive.  Can you imagine, he asked, when they get some money, what do they buy?  A cell phone!

 

Having spent some time among the Masai, it seems to me that a cell phone is a more useful acquisition than, say, a dress suit or an electric kettle.  Who are they going to call? he asked, to uproarious laughter.  Well, other Masai — like his brother, in his cluster of huts four miles away, who he could not talk to unless he walked over, and even then would have no idea if he was home.  Eminently useful, a cell phone.

 

Sitting there, listening to this, gritting my teeth, I could see where modern writers are largely failing modern readers.  In our anxiety to tell about the myriad kudu in this country, or the huge flights of sandgrouse in that one, or where the biggest elephants are found, we have forgotten the passion of seeing something new and exotic, and instilling that same passion in our readers.

 

Instead of writing about what it was like, we write about how long the horns were, which, when you think of it, hardly matters at all.  In an era when technology would allow us to see so much more, we choose to see and feel so much less.

Cape Fearsome

Wieland with his Mount Longido bull – a Cape buffalo that proved the legends to be true.

By Terry Wieland

 

Years ago, I was told that professional hunters in East Africa wanted a young PH to have a close call with a Cape buffalo early in his career.  Why?  Because, they said, you could hunt and kill 500 buffalo without incident, become complacent, and number 501 would get you.  Better to learn a lesson early.

 

Recently, a writer I know and respect, who has hunted all over the world, including many Cape buffalo, wrote that he did not know, personally, anyone who had experienced a problem with a buffalo, much less an injury.  Nor, he wrote, did any of the professional hunters he canvassed on the subject.  Cape buffalo, he insisted, are over-rated.  (In fairness, he later told me it was semi-serious hyperbole.)

 

Well, I beg to differ, and I would like to point out that his statement about none of his acquaintances is patently untrue, because he knows me, and in March, 1993, high atop Mount Longido in the Great Rift Valley of Tanzania, I had a problem that ended only with a bullet in a buffalo’s skull at four feet.  Had that bullet — my third shot —  not found its mark, I would probably have ended up dead.

 

A brief explanation:  I was hunting with just my PH, Duff Gifford.  Our trackers were eating breakfast by the fire while we scouted in the early morning.  I found a big bull amid the brushy dongas on the mountainside, put a bullet into his lungs at 75 yards, and he dashed into a ravine.  From up on the edge, we could see nothing through the brush but we could hear his labored breathing.  If he did not come out in ten minutes, we decided, we’d go in after him.  At ten minutes almost to the second, the bull came out at a run and up the trail on our side.  He was hunting us.

 

At any time, he could have escaped down the ravine under cover.  Instead, he lay in wait, facing back the way he’d come, with one purpose in mind:  He was dying, I believe he knew it, and all he had left was revenge.  He soaked up three shots, never wavering, before the final bullet dropped him.

 

Before that incident, I had killed two Cape buffalo; I’ve killed four more since, and been in on the deaths of a dozen others.  Of them all, the Mount Longido bull was the only one that demonstrated mbogo’s legendary traits of vengefulness, determination, and cool ability to formulate a strategy and carry it out to the bitter end.  But one example was all I needed, and I’ve never since questioned the legends.

 

Unlike the other notably dangerous game of Africa — lion, leopard, elephant — the Cape buffalo is a decidedly Jekyll-and-Hyde character.  Most of the time, he’s a peaceful herd animal who just wishes to be left alone.  Let him be angered, or wounded, or caught in a snare, or have a toothache, however, and he can turn into an enemy as calculating and dangerous as Doc Holliday.

 

What’s more, he’s not content just to rough you up and move on.  Once the decision is made, he’s not happy until you are are reduced to a bloodstain in the dust.

 

In 2004, two men were killed by Cape buffalo, in separate incidents in the Rift Valley.  Neither was hunting buffalo.  In fact, Simon Combes, a wildlife artist of my acquaintance who had lived in Kenya his entire life, got out of his car to look at the view over the Rift when a bull came out of the bush and savaged him.

 

The other victim was a Canadian outfitter — an experienced hunter — looking for tracks around a waterhole.  He was carrying only a .270.  Again, a bull buffalo, and again, out of nowhere and for no known reason.  Neither bull was ever found.  Snare?  Toothache?  Old wound?  To this day, no one knows.

 

If, however, you read that Cape buffalo are over-rated, oversized cattle without a malicious bone in their bodies, please keep the above incidents in mind.  And when in buffalo country, carry a buffalo rifle.

The 30th is Pearl

By Bob Bixby

 

My wife Pam and I marked our 30th wedding anniversary not with a Caribbean cruise or a European tour, but with nearly five weeks in Southern Africa. It is a place that’s always meant more to us than just a destination. On our 20th anniversary, we renewed our wedding vows in a church overlooking the Indian Ocean. This time, we returned to make more memories.

 

The trip had three distinct phases. First, we spent time in the Victoria Falls/Livingstone region, exploring Chobe National Park in Botswana and visiting Victoria Falls from both the Zimbabwe and Zambia sides. Then came the heart of the trip, a 14-day hunt with Huntershill Safaris. We wrapped up the trip with a week in Cape Town and the surrounding wine country, a peaceful end to our adventure.

 

We flew into Victoria Falls then immediately traveled to Botswana. We settled into a quiet resort on the edge of Chobe National Park, right along the river. That first evening, we had dinner outdoors overlooking the water. The food was good, and the setting was unforgettable, hippos grunting in the distance, the sun melted into the river like gold into a fire.

 

The next morning, we boarded a boat for a game-viewing ride. It felt like stepping into a different world, untouched and raw. Elephants, hippos, crocodiles and buffalo, all going about their business and all indifferent to our presence. That evening, we switched to a land-based game drive and saw four of the Big Five – everything but the leopard. We got close enough to a male lion that we swore we could hear and feel its breath. It was one of those days that reminds you why we came – not just for the animals, but for the feeling of being part of something bigger.

 

Day two flipped the order: morning drive, evening boat ride. The bush doesn’t follow a schedule, and that’s part of the magic. Every outing revealed something new. We’d previously been to Kruger Park, and while it’s impressive, Chobe felt more personal. Less traffic, fewer tourists. There were moments when it felt like we had the whole park to ourselves.

 

After Chobe, we returned to Victoria Falls and spent five days exploring both sides. The Zambian side had more viewpoints; Zimbabwe had fewer, but arguably the better ones. The falls themselves? Nothing short of incredible. They call it Mosi-oa-Tunya – “The Smoke That Thunders” – and it’s not just a poetic name. It fits. We spent two full days exploring the falls. On our first evening in Victoria Falls, we had dinner at the Lookout Café, perched above the Zambezi near the falls.

 

On our last day we visited Livingstone, a bit less touristy than Victoria Falls with a lot more of the old-time safari-hunter feel. We had dinner on the Royal Livingstone Express, which travels to Victoria Falls Bridge. That was an amazing end to the first phase of our adventure.

 

Time in Africa is strange. The days fly by, but the moments seem to stretch. I always wish they’d last longer.

 

From Victoria Falls, we flew to Johannesburg for an overnight stay, then caught an early flight to East London. That’s where we met our professional hunter, Chris Kriel. Young, sharp, and easygoing, Chris helped us load our gear, which was more than his truck could comfortably hold, and drove us to Huntershill Safaris main camp.

 

After two days of travel, we were ready to rest. But Africa had other plans. The hunt was about to begin.

 

We’d spend the first week at Huntershill’s main property, chasing plains game across wide, varied terrain. The main property was split pretty much evenly between bottom flats and rugged mountains. Then we’d move to a more remote and mountainous camp for a different set of species. Each location promised its own challenges, its own stories, and its own rewards.

 

A few hours after arriving, Chris knocked on our door. “Want to check the rifle?” he asked. This was my fifth safari, but my first without my own rifle. It felt strange, like forgetting to wear my wedding ring. We drove to the range as the light began to fade. It would most likely be the last thing we did that night.

 

Chris handed me his Remington Model 700 chambered in .300 WSM. It had a Sig Sauer scope and a ballistic app that dialed in windage and distance. I usually bring my .300 Ultra Mag and 7mm Ultra Mag, both Remington and with Swarovski glass, so the setup felt extremely familiar.

 

One thing was new though, a suppressor. I’d never shot a suppressed rifle before. The first shot at the range told me everything I needed to know. The reduced noise, the softer recoil – it was smooth. Leaving my own rifle behind didn’t feel like a compromise at all.

 

The rifle was dialed. We were ready. The bush was waiting.

 

Huntershill has a resident rhino family that roams near the lodge. On the drive back, we took our time, snapping photos and watching the hills. On a previous trip, I’d walked out of my chalet and nearly walked into a group of rhinos. I had to shoo them off like oversized cattle. Africa doesn’t do fences like we do back home, animals here pretty much go where they want.

 

Dinner was excellent, hearty and simple. We turned in early, tired from travel but excited for what lay ahead. Tomorrow, the hunt would begin. Not just for trophies, but for stories. And that’s what we came for.

The Lechwe, Copper Elegance

The first morning of the hunt started the way it should, early, quiet, and full of possibility. The air was cool, the light just beginning to stretch across the hills, and the bush had that stillness that only comes before the first pursuit. Pam and I had a quick breakfast, and by first light, we were rolling out with Chris, in search of “something.”

 

My list for this trip was ambitious but flexible: kudu, bushbuck, lechwe, waterbuck, golden wildebeest, black impala, nyala, mountain reedbuck, bontebok, and warthog. I wasn’t chasing numbers, five or six would be my limit. I was going to let the trip play out as to which animals I went after. I wanted animals with stories, not just the best scores.

 

We spotted a herd of golden wildebeest almost immediately. Their color is something else, a rich copper tone with brindled highlights that shimmer in the sun. I’ve always had a soft spot for red tones, maybe because Pam’s hair carries that same fire. But none of the bulls stood out, so we moved on.

 

A small herd of blue wildebeest crested a hill toward us. One bull looked decent, but I wasn’t interested in another blue wildebeest. Watching wildebeest, the blues and blacks, is always entertaining. They’re the clowns of the savanna, bouncing and bucking for no reason at all. We watched for a while, then pressed on.

 

A short drive brought us to a herd of Cape buffalo. I wasn’t hunting buffalo on this trip, but I’ve dreamt of that day. There’s a gravity to buffalo, a presence that demands respect. We glassed the hillsides for an hour or so, hoping something else might show, but the bush stayed quiet. It was time to head back for lunch.

 

Just a few minutes into the drive, Chris stopped the truck, jumped out, and said one word: “Lechwe.” Across the valley, behind a small kopje, was a bachelor herd of three bulls. Two were shooters, one with the classic symmetry and sweeping hooks, the other with a twisted crooked horn that made him a trophy in his own right. We moved to the near side of the kopje, but the cover was thin. Two more younger bulls approached from behind, and if we moved too soon, they’d bust the whole setup.

 

We waited. The bulls shifted direction, meandering back the way they came. We circled low, hoping to intercept them. It worked. At about 150 yards, they came into view. Chris asked, “Unique or traditional beauty?” I chose the latter, the fourth bull in line, graceful and balanced.

 

Chris got a final range and dialed in the scope and had me set up perfectly. I settled behind the sticks and found the bull in the scope. I made sure it was the right lechwe, a mistake I’d make later in the trip. Once confirmed, I placed the reticle just above the front shoulder. Calm breath. Gentle squeeze. The shot broke.

 

What followed was a sound I’d never heard before in Africa: a soft “thwap,” courtesy of Chris’s suppressed rifle. The rifle felt great, dialed in and my confidence was high.

 

The bull ran no more than 30 yards. His hide was stunning, a deep chestnut color with a golden sheen, and horns that swept back like an impala’s but longer and more dramatic. One of my top animals, and it was already headed to the salt.

 

By the time we finished photos, it was well past lunch. We returned to camp for a quiet meal, just the three of us. After a short siesta, we went back out, not to shoot, but to scout. I didn’t want to take everything on my first day. Africa rewards patience, and the best stories are never rushed.

The Golden Wildebeest – the Chestnut Dream

The second day began much like the first. A quick breakfast and the anticipation of something extraordinary happening. We set out towards the area we’d scouted the night before, and almost immediately we were reminded why we were here. A mother rhino and her calf stood just off the road, framed by the morning light. Few things in the bush are more precious than a baby rhino. Maybe a sheep farmer’s newborn lambs.

 

We watched for nearly twenty minutes, taking photos and soaking in the moment. It’s surreal, really, two teachers from small towns in Iowa, sitting in silence, watching a rhino calf nuzzle its mother. Unbelievable.

 

We moved on, passing a few small waterbuck bulls just inside the tree line, but nothing worth pursuing. Chris led us to a semi-secluded flat that he knew was a good glassing spot with cover and a couple of flat rocks to sit on. He scanned the landscape with ease, calling out animals like a conductor reading sheet music. I had my Swarovski binoculars up trying to locate anything, but as usual, I couldn’t see a fraction of what he saw. It’s a skill that comes with time, and Chris had it in spades.

 

We glassed for a couple of hours before moving on to another vantage point. The goal was kudu, ever elusive and majestic, and now at the top of my list as the lechwe was in salt. Chris mentioned a particular bull that had been giving the other PHs a run for their money. Big horns, big body, definitely a shooter. We were after kudu, but if another opportunity presented itself, I wasn’t about to let it pass. There is an old saying, don’t pass up something great to get something good. The list was a guide, not something written in stone, and Africa has a way of offering surprises worth taking.

 

At the second spot, we saw a lot of game, but nothing extraordinary: giraffe, zebra, impala, springbok, blesbok, blue and black wildebeest. We didn’t see anything I was after until just before lunch. As Africa often does, it delivered at the last moment. A herd of golden wildebeest appeared, distant but promising, and clearly different from the one we’d seen the day before. Chris made a mental note, and we headed back for lunch.

 

Lunch was full of expectation. No siesta today, just an extra cold drink and a plan. Within 30 minutes of finishing lunch, we were back at it and headed towards a new vantage point, 400–500 yards from the herd of golden wildebeest. Chris broke out the spotting scope and studied the herd with the intensity of someone reading between the lines. After what felt like an eternity, he pulled away with a grin. “There’s a giant in there,” he said. “One that stands out so much bigger, it’s crazy.”

 

We packed up and began the stalk, weaving through trees and brush, always keeping something between us and the herd. At 250 yards, we hit a dry riverbed, more canyon than creek, and scrambled down and up the walls like two nearly 60-year-olds trying to be 30 again. More likely, two 58-year-olds acting like two 90-year-olds. We laughed, but not loud enough to spook the herd.

 

At 150 yards, we reached the edge of the field where the wildebeest were grazing. They were in the open, but we had good cover. Chris was right, one bull did stand out, even I could tell. His horns extended what seemed like 6 to 8 inches beyond his ears, a brindled chestnut dream in motion. Only one problem – he wouldn’t stand still.

 

Chris set up the sticks, and I got on the gun. For at least an hour, I tracked that bull through the scope as he wandered, meandered, and mingled with the herd. My reticle was on him the whole time, but he never gave me a clean shot. Until he did.

 

He made the one mistake: stepped just far enough from the herd. Chris had already ranged the herd and dialed in the scope for the distance, so all I had to do was to take a calm breath and gently squeeze the trigger. The rifle cracked, then the sound every hunter wants to hear, the thwap. The bull ran 75–100 yards and dropped.

 

The herd circled and returned to their original spot and watched us, never leaving. The bull, though, ended up much closer to us after he ran. We only had to walk about 50 yards. And the closer we got, the more beautiful he became; red-orange hide, vibrant brindle stripes, and horns that seemed sculpted.

 

The sun was setting as we took photos. Too late to continue, so we headed back to an excellent dinner and the firepit where I discovered European-style hard apple cider. Nothing like the American version. It is crisp, dry, and dangerously drinkable.

Chasing the Grey Ghost

The next morning, Chris told us we’d be heading to the other farm where we had two days left to chase the bull we’d been hearing about.

 

Huntershill spans some 60,000 acres, split between flat plains and rugged mountain terrain. We knew the bull wouldn’t be in the low country, so we headed into the hills. The plan was simple: drive to a lookout, glass for an hour or so, move on, and repeat. We saw plenty of game. The kudu were thick, but all too young or female. The only notable sighting was a herd of Watusi cattle winding their way up a mountain trail. Entertaining, but not what we were after.

 

After a quick lunch, we went back out. Not long into the afternoon hunt, Chris got a call from another PH, Nippy Bridger. He thought he’d seen the bull near where they were hunting warthog. We loaded up and met Nippy who slipped away with Chris to scout the area. Thirty minutes later, they returned; they’d seen the bull cresting the mountain on the far side. We left Nippy and drove around hoping to cut him off before we lost him.

 

We reached the other side and began glassing, but it seemed the kudu had given us the slip. We continued to scan the area for what seemed like hours but never saw him again. Chris suspected the bull had circled back toward where we’d started. We decided to return the next day.  

 

Morning came early and we headed back to the spot where we’d first met Nippy. Whether by luck or instinct, Chris spotted the bull not long after sunrise. He was moving up out of the shadows, into the warmth of the sun, but still too far for me to judge his size. Chris said he was the best bull seen on the property this year.

 

The bull moved directly toward us, to around 400 yards. Then he turned left and started moving along the mountain’s side. We quickly packed up and followed, trying to stay close enough for a shot but far enough to remain unseen. We moved three or four times, but never got within 300 yards, and he never gave us an opportunity for a clean shot.

 

As he neared the crest of a ridge that spilled into a valley, I could sense Chris felt that we were on the verge of losing the kudu.

 

“Can you run?” he asked.

 

“Not fast anymore, but yes.”

 

As soon as the bull crested the ridge, we took off, scrambling uphill, boots slipping on loose stones, hearts pounding not just from exertion but from urgency. Under normal circumstances, running after a kudu isn’t the best plan. But this wasn’t a normal circumstance. This was a chance at a great bull, and we weren’t about to let him vanish into the folds of the mountain without a fight.

 

When we reached the ridge, the terrain opened into a broad plateau to the left, while to the right it dropped into a deep valley against the mountainside. It could hide a kudu with ease. We glassed quickly, scanning everywhere, but saw no sign of the bull.

 

Just then, a herd of black wildebeest wandered onto the plateau and began their usual antics. They chased each other in circles, stopped, bolted, and repeated the cycle like children at recess. It was entertaining as they’ve earned their reputation as clowns, but our focus was elsewhere. We were hunting a ghost, and the clock was ticking.

 

We had to make a choice. The bull had crested the ridge, and now it was anyone’s guess – had he gone left toward the plateau or right into the valley? We chose left. Moving slowly and deliberately, we crept toward the plateau, using every bit of cover we could find. The wildebeest were still clowning in the open, but they hadn’t seen us. We reached the edge and glassed the area.

 

Just then, Chris caught movement behind us. A group of kudu cows had slipped in quietly, and miraculously, we hadn’t spooked them, considering we were focused entirely on staying hidden from the wildebeest to our left. Chris shifted his attention to the cows. He thought he saw horns. No idea on size, and at that point, we were pretty sure it couldn’t be our bull as we had earlier “decided” he’d gone the other way.

 

But Africa has a way of rewriting your assumptions, and this hunt was far from over.

 

The cows had settled into a quiet rhythm, feeding in a patch of brush that gave us clear views as they weaved in and out of one another. Then, almost casually, the bull eased his head out from behind the cover.

 

At first glance, it looked like a whitetail buck back home curling his lip in what a biologist would call the “Flehmen response”. I just call it curling their upper lip. It’s where an animal will flare his upper lip to better catch a scent. What I saw seemed relatively ordinary, but Chris was puzzled. He’d never seen a kudu behave that way. It wasn’t a scent test, it was something else. Something off. And while we didn’t yet know it, that odd moment would be the first clue to a bull unlike any we’d ever seen.

 

They had fed down to within 50 yards of us, drifting into a small clearing that gave us a perfect window to study each animal as they moved through the brush. Chris was able to gauge the size of the horns and confirm it was the bull we’d been chasing. He quietly set up the sticks. I got the rifle into position, and Chris dialed the scope for a 50-yard shot.

 

We were tucked just below an outcrop of the plateau, and the bull had moved ever so slightly down the slope. That small shift was enough to throw off the shot – my crosshairs were no longer on the kudu but instead locked onto the rocks in front of me. It was frustrating, but in Africa the terrain is as much a part of the hunt as the animal itself.

 

We had to move up onto the plateau, fully exposed to the wildebeest that, until now, hadn’t paid us any mind. As soon as we crested, they bolted across the open like a thunderclap, a thundering herd in full retreat. Thankfully, the kudu remained undisturbed, still feeding, still unaware.

 

Chris got the sticks up again, this time higher, and we were back to within 50 yards. I settled behind the rifle, and Chris confirmed the distance. I took a calm breath and gently squeezed the trigger. The rifle let off a crack, and almost immediately, I heard the third thwap of the trip – that unmistakable sound of a bullet finding its mark.

 

The cows scattered in every direction, and the bull bolted, maybe 25, possibly 30 yards further down into the ravine before piling up. I’ve never claimed to be a great shot. If you asked my friends, I hope they’d say I’m at least a competent shot. In this case, I almost wish I’d been a little less competent. Where that kudu dropped was at least 200 yards from the nearest spot the truck could reach, and even that would require the trackers to cut a new trail through the brush just to get us that close. It’s one of those moments where the excitement of the shot is quickly tempered by the reality of terrain.

 

That side of the mountain was steep, brutally steep. It took everything Pam and I had to get down to where the bull lay. But we made it, and there he was. A truly magnificent animal. Kudu have always been my favorite African animal. On each trip, it had been the top priority  to hunt. This bull was special, but as we got closer, something wasn’t right.

 

When we first saw him curling his lip, I’d assumed it was the Flehmen response. But it wasn’t that at all. He’d been attacked, something had torn his upper and lower lips, splitting them into four distinct flaps. It gave him a rough, almost grotesque appearance. An ugly face, no doubt, but what an incredible hunt.

 

That kudu story was already one for the books, but the real spectacle was just beginning. Nippy and his crew had heard the shot and came over to see the bull everyone had been chasing. He was a fine animal, not a 60-inch Namibian giant, and not a top-ten record book entry either, but he had a beautiful curl, thick bases, and what stood out most to me: six-inch ivory tips. Not the torn lips; it was those tips that made him truly unique to me.

 

That side of the mountain was steep, and now it was time to pay the price. There was no way we were getting that kudu out intact. The crew didn’t want to skin and quarter him, so they made the call to cut him in half. Then, two trackers hoisted one half each onto their shoulders and started the climb. It was only 200 yards, but when it’s straight up, that distance feels like a mile. This bull was no lightweight either, easily in the five- to six-hundred pounds range. That meant each man was carrying close to 300 pounds uphill, through brush and loose rocks, without complaint.

 

Watching that kind of grit and strength made me grateful all over again, not just for the hunt, but for the people who make it possible. The whole hunt so far, from the first glassing session to this final shot here at the main property, had been unforgettable. It was lunchtime, and we were hungry, so we loaded up and headed back for our last meal at Huntershill.

 

After lunch, we made our way to the caves to see the rock art, a quiet detour. The path wasn’t easy, winding through brush and stone, but the reward was worth every step. The bushmen paintings, etched into rock thousands of years ago, stood as silent witnesses to a time long before rifles, before lodges and fire pits. We stood in awe, trying to imagine what life looked like when those figures were drawn. What were they hunting? What stories were they telling?

 

Africa has a way of making you feel small, and in that moment, we felt it deeply.

 

After the taxidermy was complete and the mount hung on the wall, the bull still bore the scars of that encounter. The taxidermist did a fine job making him look as normal as possible, but I’ll always remember the truth in his face — the war wounds, the chase, and the moments where he almost got away.

The Old Warrior Bushbuck

The drive to Rocklands was uneventful. The place was known for warthog, waterbuck, and bushbuck, animals from my wish list, and they were in abundance, as well as big herds of buffalo, pods of hippos in two lakes, hartebeest, eland, zebra, and especially giraffe in great numbers. But I wasn’t after any of those. The bushbuck would come from an adjacent farm, one with a river and thick tree cover, their perfect habitat.

 

The first morning at our new camp, we headed to one of Chris’s favorite lookouts, one of several elevated vantage points surrounding a lowland flat. Each gave a slightly angled view to below us. We set up at the first, overlooking a watering hole. The activity was constant. Several waterbuck came in to drink as the sun rose. A few were tempting, but it was day one, and we were going to be selective. Warthogs came and went, either a lot of them, or the same ones making repeated appearances.

 

A very nice warthog came in late that morning, and I was hoping Chris would give the nod. He didn’t. “We can do better,” he said. At the time, I wasn’t so sure. A bit of foreshadowing, that would end up being the warthog I would take, and yes, I know for a fact we could have done better.

 

The tusks were long and thick, at least to my eyes. They would’ve been longer if not for the worn tips, but they held their mass all the way to the blunt ends. He looked like a bruiser, and I was excited. When Chris passed, I was disappointed. He must’ve seen it on my face, because he followed up with a grin: “Don’t worry, he’ll be here every morning. Plan on this one if we’re down to the last day.”

 

I smiled. That was good enough for now.

 

That afternoon, we climbed a road up the side of a mountain. On the way, we spotted a proper kudu. He would have been worth chasing if I hadn’t already taken one. We chased him for a while, keeping note of his direction and where he was headed to pass along to the next group. Back on the road, we reached the first stop. More waterbuck. One stood out, horns that swept forward and curved together like a football perched atop his head. Unique, but again, we passed.

 

We moved from spot to spot, glassing at each before moving to the next. We saw plenty of animals, but nothing that was truly special. By this time it was getting late, so we headed back to camp. Chris prepared our first braai here at Rocklands, including a traditional Afrikaans treat, roosterbrood, on the grill. The meal was incredible.

 

The next morning, we headed to an adjacent property with a river running through it. Early light brought mist and fog to the lowlands. We walked along the river’s edge, staying on a road just beside the tree line. We spooked several bushbuck, never saw them, but heard them close. We saw others farther out, but nothing worth taking or nothing that presented a shot.

 

Lunch was a field affair. Chris brought a portable grill, a semi-sphere with a propane tank underneath. He cooked one of the best field lunches I’ve ever had. I do enjoy African game meat.

 

After lunch, we climbed out and onto the bank, more of a canyon than riverbank, with a 50-foot elevation change. We walked along the rim, glassing down into the trees. We continued walking and glassing until we reached the far end of the property. We considered moving on to a different farm, but Chris made the call to send our tracker, Moses, to the other end to walk back toward us through the bottom, pushing the game in our direction. We set up just above a large clearing about midway along the bank.

 

It worked. A good ram moved out of the trees, heading toward us. Two problems: he was walking fast, and he was moving toward the side of the canyon. By the time I got on the sticks and found him in the scope, he was almost beneath the bank and about to disappear. He kept moving quickly, almost perfectly parallel to the edge of the riverbank. To keep him in the scope, I had to get up on my toes and point the gun lower. I never felt comfortable enough to take the shot. He slipped away, and I felt that familiar ache of a missed opportunity.

 

Then, from the far side of the clearing, an old ram fed out into the open, slowly and deliberately. Chris got his spotting scope out. The ram didn’t seem to be in a hurry to go anywhere. Through the glass, you could see he was well past his prime. His horns weren’t terribly long, but they were as thick at the top as they were at the base. He was an old warrior. One eye had been gouged out, the truest definition of a perfect trophy. The only problem: he was feeding 400 yards away.

 

I’m not a great shot. I’ve made longer and missed shorter. Prone would’ve been ideal, but the terrain wasn’t right. Chris set the sticks, dialed the scope, and I settled in. Calm breath. Gentle squeeze. The rifle cracked. The fourth thwap. He dropped.

 

We celebrated the shot, though it wasn’t quite as good as I’d hoped. Moses walked over to where the bushbuck lay. When he got close, he started waving his arms like something was wrong. Crap. We made a mad rush to where the ram lay. He was mortally wounded, but not dead yet. He lay still, even with Moses just five paces away. A wounded bushbuck is known to be dangerous, so we approached cautiously.

 

For whatever reason, he didn’t care that Moses was so close. But when we got to 20 yards, he struggled to his feet and started to lumber away. Not a run or a walk, just a labored, painful effort to escape. Chris handed me his .44 Mag revolver. One shot at 15 yards finished the ram.

 

We took photos, and then I stepped on what looked like a dandelion in flower. It wasn’t. Thirty barbed spines embedded in my jeans, some through to my calf. It took vice grips to pull them from my boot. A few pierced the skin, painful, irritating. Thankfully, we had pain relief Neosporin to help with the pain… and those Savanna ciders back at the lodge.

 

Bushbuck now crossed off the list. Seven days remained, and I could be as selective as I wanted. I’d already seen suitable warthog and waterbuck. I was on cloud nine. We returned to the lodge for dinner and a celebratory cigar around the fire. We stayed up later than usual, enjoying the company and the warmth. We planned to sleep in a bit — waterbuck now became the number one priority, unless some incredibly massive warthog stepped up.

 

Halfway through the trip, four of my target animals were already in the salt. This hunt was shaping up to be one for the ages.

The Waterbuck: the Worst Day of the Trip… Then It Wasn’t

The morning started like the others but would end as one of the most emotionally charged days of the entire trip.

 

We set out for a new section of the farm, aiming to start high and glass the bottoms as animals fed upward. At the first vantage point, we had a commanding view, though there were still plenty of places for game to move unseen, although that tends to be true everywhere in Africa. We glassed for about an hour, spotting warthogs and a variety of other species, but nothing we were after. We slipped back to the truck and moved on.

 

The next spot offered even better visibility. Giraffes dotted the landscape, watching us as intently as we watched for game. We stood out to them, no question. They knew something was off.

 

After nearly two hours of glassing and being silently interrogated by giraffes, Chris spotted a lone waterbuck. Even at 1,000 yards, the spotting scope revealed a promising set of horns. That classic forward sweep, with mass carried all the way to the tips. Not a record-book bull, but exactly the kind I was hoping for.

 

We made a plan to intercept him. Driving down, we circled ahead, hoping to catch him as he moved up the mountain. We parked on a plateau and began walking with purpose, not rushed, but deliberate. After about 45 minutes, we spotted him again. He was elegant. I’ve always thought waterbuck were regal in the way they hold their heads when they walk. He moved parallel to us, roughly 400 yards away. We closed the distance some while trying to cut him off, but he disappeared over a small rise before we could get into a comfortable shooting distance.

 

It wasn’t much of a hill, but it was enough to help him vanish on the other side. We moved carefully to the crest, staying low to avoid skylining ourselves. At the top, we had good cover and began glassing. The terrain was a mix of bush and open patches, perfect for hiding. He had vanished.

 

After 15 minutes of glassing the area, a waterbuck poked his head out from behind a tree. The horns looked right. Chris set up the sticks, and I got into a seated position. He ranged the animal at 100 yards and dialed the scope. As always, he said, “Let me confirm.” After a long look, he said, “OK.”

 

As soon as I heard the “Oh,” I was already taking my calm breath and gently squeezing the trigger. The rifle cracked, and the now familiar thwap followed. Five for five now on hearing that sound — but instead of excitement, I was working out the “Wait” I’d heard as I finished squeezing the trigger.

 

Chris had said, “OK,” and then immediately, “Wait!” But it was too late.

 

The waterbuck dropped straight down at the base of the tree. It didn’t run at all. As we approached, the horns and body seemed to shrink more than usual. It was immediately clear that this wasn’t the bull we’d been chasing. Not a terrible trophy, but not the one we’d worked for.

 

Chris was mortified. He knew things had gone sideways. It had been too easy. We’d lost the original bull over the rise, then when we got to the top, this one stuck his head out. His body and horns were much smaller, but nearly identical in proportion. Through binoculars, you couldn’t tell the difference in scale. It had to be the same one. At least, that’s what we told ourselves. But the reality on the ground was unmistakable.

 

We still took photos. Pam and I were pleased, maybe not as excited as we could have been. It was still the biggest waterbuck I’d ever taken, and it was in salt. I had six days left and only one animal remaining, the warthog. I planned to be as selective as possible. That warthog would need dinosaur tusks to earn a shot.

 

After lunch, Chris left briefly to call Huntershill and explain the mix-up. He returned with good news. We could continue after the original waterbuck.

 

That afternoon, we returned to the same hill I’d shot from earlier. It didn’t take long to find the bull, farther down, about 250 yards out. We adjusted slightly for a standing shot. Chris ranged him at 225 yards and dialed the scope. I settled in, with the reticle just above the front shoulder.

 

Calm breath. Gentle squeeze. Crack. Then the sixth thwap.

 

The bull turned downhill, moved maybe 10 yards, and dropped. No shrinkage this time. He was big at 200 yards and even bigger up close. His horns swept back and hooked forward, with mass carried all the way to the top. Chris said that’s what set him apart.

 

We took a lot of photos, this time with real excitement. I was in awe. A kudu, lechwe, golden wildebeest, bushbuck, and now a waterbuck. All great trophies, not just in score, but in story as well.

 

With him loaded, we headed back to camp to enjoy another braai, a few more celebratory cigars, and definitely more ciders. The trip had already exceeded every expectation.

 

That night after dinner, we settled around the fire. The pit was on the elevated courtyard, about six feet above the ground. This was part of the lodge’s quiet charm. As the flames began to fade and the stories wound down, I noticed two small lights flickering in the bush, maybe 10 or 15 yards from the edge of the deck. They moved, not fixed like lanterns, and I realized it had to be eyes catching the light from the fire.

 

I quickly stepped into our room, grabbed my flashlight, and returned to the edge of the patio. I aimed the beam toward where I’d last seen the lights, and what I saw took a moment to register.

 

Standing there, staring back at me, was a mature Cape buffalo bull. Not just close, very close. Five yards away and six feet below me, locked in a silent stare. It wasn’t just the eye contact, it was his presence. He wasn’t looking at me; he was looking through me.

 

Then the rest came into focus. Behind him, a herd. Fifty, maybe sixty strong. My flashlight caught dozens, maybe hundreds of eyes reflecting back. It was unnerving. I stood there with a cigar in my mouth, a drink in one hand, and the flashlight in the other, sweeping the beam across the herd. The magnitude of it was staggering. And all I could think was: Could they charge the patio? Could they jump?

 

Time slowed. It might’ve lasted five minutes, but it felt like an hour. A silent standoff. Then, the cigar fell from my mouth. It hit the patio with a soft burst of red sparks, just enough to break the moment. The herd turned, thundered back toward the hills, the sound like a low tornado rolling away.

 

I’ll remember that forever.

The Warthog That Wasn’t, Then Was

With five full hunting days ahead and only the warthog left on my list, we knew we’d be working for the perfect pig. Chris brought chairs for Pam and me, knowing we’d be spending long hours at fewer spots. It could’ve ended quickly, if I’d done my part.

 

That next morning, we headed to the last section of the farm we hadn’t yet explored. High ground, good visibility. A big herd of eland greeted us and promptly spooked, running from one end of the property to the other, kicking up everything in between. Fortunately, the interior remained quiet.

 

We glassed across to the opposite mountain, scanning dense scrub and scattered clearings. For me, spotting game is like finding a needle in a haystack. I was proud when I spotted a few warthogs that usually Chris had already seen, studied, and moved on by the time I found anything. One pig I found looked massive, bigger than the one from day one. But Chris said, “Not big enough to shoot with all our time left.” That’s the hard part, passing on something good in hopes of finding something better.

 

Later, Chris spotted a true brute. His tusks stuck out and curled up like American football goalposts. Through the spotting scope, they looked like bodybuilder arms flexing from his face. Even with five days left, this one was worth going after.

 

He was 1,500 yards out. We worked our way down, gaining ground. As we moved closer, we found ourselves moving lower more than closer. At 600 yards, we hit a limit. If we got any closer, we’d lose sight of him. He was still high in the clearing, if we moved any closer, the trees would obstruct our line of sight.

 

We had to set up there. I laid out jackets and packs to lie on, trying to get comfortable on the decline. The warthog was uphill, and I was lying downhill, struggling to keep him in the scope. It was like trying to look at my eyebrows through the scope, I just couldn’t get comfortable.

 

My breathing was shallow, labored. Chris noticed. “Relax. Breathe. Squeeze the trigger.” I tried. I wish I could say it was because the pig moved, but the reality was that I never did feel comfortable with the shooting position. I knew it was a monster pig. I got the scope as best I could onto the warthog, took a deep breath, closed my eyes, and pulled the trigger.

 

Missed.

 

Chris had been filming. The video showed the bullet passing just under the belly. I wasn’t upset about the miss, I was disappointed in myself for not being able to relax and go through the steps. The rifle and scope were perfect. I hadn’t done what was necessary to make the shot.

 

We kept after it. Returned to the same spot the remaining days, hoping for another chance. It never came, and I was okay with that. The hunter who came in after me ended up getting that pig. It was a monster, and I was happy for him.

 

One afternoon, we went for a walkabout, no rifles, just quiet steps. We got close to a herd of buffalo, probably the same one from the fire pit encounter. We found a warthog sow under a tree and filmed our approach. The wind was perfect. We got within five yards of Chris, with Pam in the middle and me at the back filming. Then the wind shifted. She bolted, one moment lying down, the next tail up and gone. So much fun.

 

On the final morning, we returned to the first vantage point. After a while, that old boar came into view. Chris knew his pattern and moved us to where he’d likely be in 30 minutes. We waited. Giraffes watched us, but the rest of the bush was unaware.

 

Right on time, the pig walked into the field. About 300 yards out. Chris asked if I was ready. I nodded. He set the sticks. I found the pig in the scope.

 

One last calm breath. Gentle squeeze. Crack. Then the final thwap.

 

He ran maybe 30 yards and dropped. We walked out for photos. He didn’t disappoint. Long tusks, worn down with age, but full of character. I was happy. We took plenty of pictures.  As the last pictures were being taken, a small amount of dejection crept in as I knew that this meant the hunt part of the trip was over. It is always a bit saddening when the reality hits that we are nearing the end of our time with new friends.

 

Back at camp, we had an early lunch and made a quick trip into Fort Beaufort and packed for the airport the next day. I’m never ready to stop hunting, but the next chapter was Pam’s, a week in Cape Town. Four nights in the wine region, Franschhoek to be specific, then four more on the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront in Cape Town.

 

The hunt was over, but the trip continued.

Cape Town, Our New Favorite Place

Franschhoek is a beautiful small town, nestled in the Cape Winelands and framed by the Drakenstein mountains. Its French Huguenot heritage is evident in the architecture and the town’s name. Franschhoek literally means “French Corner” in Dutch. The name honors the refugees who settled there in the late 1600s. The first Huguenots arrived around 1688, fleeing religious persecution and bringing with them their knowledge of winemaking. We visited the Huguenot Memorial Museum and Monument to learn more about their history.

 

The town’s main street is lined with boutiques and art galleries, and Pam thoroughly enjoyed exploring them. We spent our first day walking the street, slipping in and out of shops, enjoying the relaxed pace.

 

The next two days were dedicated to the Wine Tram experience, which took us to various vineyards throughout the region. Many trams and buses connect the estates, making it easy to spend full days tasting wines and enjoying meals at some truly remarkable locations. We especially enjoyed the Méthode Cap Classique, or MCC for short, really what most would simply call Champagne.

 

Though four days may seem long, they passed quickly. We returned to the main street each day, revisiting our favorite shops and soaking in the peaceful atmosphere. It was a welcome contrast to the more rugged and adventurous parts of our trip. Given the choice, we could have stayed forever, but our children and grandchildren were waiting for us back home. We left with far more than we arrived with, even needing to purchase an extra suitcase to carry everything home.

 

On our final night, we sat by the fire in the courtyard, reflecting on the experience and taking it all in. The next morning we headed to Cape Town to begin the last leg of our journey.

 

Our friend arrived mid-morning to pick us up. We stopped in Stellenbosch to visit another friend’s leather shop, Els & Co. The shop is a favorite of Pam’s for purses and bags. Coincidentally, they also carry a variety of hunting and safari-related items. We caught up over drinks, toured the workshop, and then visited the store. While Pam shopped, they kept our glasses full, wine for her, freshly brewed beer for me. I picked up a knife and a humidor, and Pam chose two beautiful bags. The owner offered to emboss the bags, giving us time for one more drink before we left in high spirits.

 

We had lunch at a nice spot in Stellenbosch before continuing to Cape Town. Once we arrived, we checked into our hotel near the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, got settled, and headed out to explore. The V&A Waterfront includes the Victoria Wharf Shopping Centre and a large surrounding area filled with shops and restaurants. We spent the first day exploring the mall and nearby attractions, ending the evening with a champagne cruise around the bay, a perfect way to capture the moment.

 

The next day, we visited Table Mountain, perhaps the most iconic attraction in South Africa. We spent the morning hiking trails at the top. The weather was dramatic, strong winds and clouds sweeping up and over the mountain, creating a misty, surreal atmosphere.

 

That afternoon, Pam went paragliding off Signal Hill. Her flight lasted about 30 minutes, offering stunning views of Table Mountain before landing at the Sea Point Promenade, where we stayed for dinner. Afterward, we returned for another evening cruise.

 

We enjoyed our morning on Table Mountain so much that we repeated it the next day. It was our final full day in Cape Town, and we wanted to make the most of it. After another morning of hiking at the top, we spent the afternoon shopping at the Waterfront. One last late-night cruise marked the end of our journey, and we returned to pack for the flight home.

 

Departure from Cape Town International Airport offered one final, breathtaking view of the region, a fitting farewell to a journey that had been unforgettable from start to finish. As I looked out over the landscape, I found myself already thinking ahead, making quiet plans for a return in the summer of 2026.

Conservation Controversies

The vista from the summit of Mount Stupid is vastly different from the view from the Valley of Despair

By Morgan Hauptfleisch – Namibia Nature Foundation, Oppenheimer Research Fellow in People and Wildlife

 

12 November 2025

Knowledge of wildlife behaviour, how animals care for their young, how they communicate with each other, and other cute and interesting facts are common in nature guidebooks, magazine articles, and safari guide rhetoric. The eco-tourism experience is about giving the animal a place in our hearts. Conversely, knowledge of ecosystem processes, energy flow, homeostasis, genetic bottlenecks, and carrying capacity is not well understood by the general public, as it is seldom explained outside of scientific writing and lecture halls. The last thing an avid tourist on safari wants to hear about is how a six-carbon sugar is converted into two molecules of pyruvate, allowing an elephant to locomote.

 

A love of animals, combined with a limited understanding of ecology, is possibly one of the root causes of many vitriolic debates about wildlife conservation. My teenager would call it a clap-back battle – a mud-slinging contest by camouflaged keyboard ninjas on social media. Some of the topics that incite these debates include elephant culling, trophy hunting, and alien invasive species extermination (especially if the species is a ‘cute’ mammal). I will attempt to unpack two of these topics affecting biodiversity conservation in southern Africa: trophy hunting and elephant management.

 

Trophy hunting and the Dunning-Kruger effect

The narrative around trophy hunting is driven by equally vociferous pro- and anti-hunting activists on social and traditional media. Meanwhile, economic and ecological statistics are hidden in scientific journals alongside thousands of unrelated writings.

 

A group of scientists from the University of Reading in the UK randomly selected 500 social media posts about the trophy hunting debate. They found that 350 of these opposed trophy hunting, and only 22 advocated for it. The other 128 either had a neutral view or their stance could not be determined. The general tone was unsurprisingly classified by the scientists as hostile, while 7% of the posts were classified as abusive. The posts were largely considered to be unproductive in terms of exchanging ideas and opinions. They further characterised four archetypes opposing trophy hunting: the activist, the condemner, the objector, and the scientist. Only the objector and the scientist allowed for any form of productive discussion.

 

The problem with social media is that information is provided in snippets of around 20 words, making it easy to retain in memory. If a reader were to digest the first 10 social media posts in the example above, it is quite likely that they would feel supremely confident about the “facts” presented, especially the persuasive ones. This leads them to steadily climb up “Mount Stupid”.

 

Let me explain what I mean by Mount Stupid. In 2011, two scholars of psychology – David Dunning and Justin Kruger – published their research on why people with little knowledge or competence in a particular subject are overconfident in their understanding of that subject. Their resulting graph (see below) is now known as the Dunning-Kruger effect.

 

The Dunning-Kruger model shows that as we move from no knowledge to a little knowledge, there is a dramatic rise in our confidence: we think that we have mastered the subject and therefore form a strong opinion. As we educate ourselves further, however, our confidence tumbles down the mountain, reaching the “Valley of Despair”. Here we discover the complexity and nuance of the subject and start to realise that we know very little. Often, the scientist is clawing his or her way out of the valley, somewhere towards the “Slope of Enlightenment”, but their confidence is nowhere near that of those left behind on the crest of Mount Stupid. Without trying to gain more knowledge on the subject, those on the mountain are seldom budged.

Dunning-Kruger-Confidence-Competence-graph

               © Wallstreet Mojo

 

 

From the anti-hunter’s mountaintop, it is overwhelmingly evident that the hunter poses a threat to the animal, and its demise will result in the loss of a sentient being to the earth, likely threatening the species with extinction. The act is savage and cruel, equal to murder. It is equally clear from the hunter’s mountain that hunting is a sport that is good for conservation and economics and that the opposing view is elitist, idealistic, and even neocolonial.

 

Upon further investigation, however, the complex context of communities coexisting with wildlife can be better understood. Hunting provides job opportunities, meat, and economic benefits, which increase tolerance for the species’ long-term existence. This comes at the cost of a living creature, which was wild and free until the trigger was pulled. But does the loss of that individual result in a weaker or stronger gene pool for the population? Does it affect the viability of the species? What roles do ethics, motivation, social and economic status, or other factors, play in the hunter’s actions to benefit or harm conservation? These are the questions that scientists grapple with in the Valley of Despair.

 

One way to test the effect of an action, such as hunting, is to compare “treatment” and “control” scenarios, where the thing being evaluated is either present (treatment) or absent (control). Namibia has allowed trophy hunting since 1967 on freehold lands and 1996 on communal lands, and is therefore our treatment. Kenya outlawed trophy hunting in 1977, making it a controlled activity. In Namibia, wildlife populations have increased substantially since the 1970s, particularly outside formally protected areas where hunting is permitted. In Kenya, wildlife populations declined by 68% between 1977 and 2016.

 

This prompts us to ask: Does Namibia have stable or growing populations because of hunting, or does hunting occur because there are healthy wildlife populations, or is it a coincidence? To further add to the complexity, Namibia and Kenya have changed in many ways besides just allowing or not allowing hunting – human population growth, changes in legislation on related matters (e.g., land ownership), and their years of independence are just a few of the many differences between the two countries. This comparison did not happen in a controlled laboratory setting!

 

Trophy hunting is clearly not a topic to be judged in the court of Instagram or Hello magazine. The complexities need to be translated into hypotheses, tested, and accepted or rejected, leading to new knowledge and further scientific advancement. This should move us a little further up the Slope of Enlightenment.

 

Too few or too many elephants? Another case for Dunning-Kruger

Herd of African elephants

Returning to the first point made in this article, elephants are one of the major attractions for tourists visiting Africa. They are the main characters in storybooks, films, and commercials. They are indeed magnificent, gentle, wise, and intelligent creatures. Any thought of interfering with their existence or population numbers through lethal means is, therefore, horrifying and inhumane to a large proportion of humans. To compound matters, only a fragment of the savanna elephant’s historical range throughout Africa is still occupied by elephants today, and many subpopulations across the continent are in decline. It is, therefore, understandable that elephant-lovers on Mount Stupid believe that all elephants must be saved at all costs.

 

Proceeding to the opposite peak of Mount Stupid, a farmer in the Kalahari who wakes up one morning to a destroyed borehole and reservoir, flattened fences, and a stripped crop field sees a marauding herd of beasts that stole his livelihood. There may not have been elephants there in that farmer’s lifetime, so he imagines that there must be far too many of them.

 

A debate has been raging for decades about the need to reduce elephant populations in certain parks and reserves across southern Africa. Between the 1960s and 1990s, elephants were regularly culled in Namibian and South African parks if they were thought to have exceeded the park’s carrying capacity. As elephant numbers grow within parks and cause increasing conflict with humans outside the parks, culling is again becoming an option. There is, however, public sentiment that it is cruel and barbaric, and killing individuals of a species that is globally under threat goes against conservation principles.

 

To push the needle of knowledge and understanding of the elephant debate towards the Valley of Despair, we need to consider some complexity: if the African elephant population (see map) is considered by region or country, there are vastly different conservation management priorities in each. In many parts of West and Central Africa, elephant populations are small and isolated, with poaching for ivory being a common occurrence. Here, active preservation of each elephant, including protection against poaching, is critical.

 

In southern Africa, however, the situation is different. Elephant populations have increased, in some cases dramatically. In the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (KAZA), there are over 220,000 elephants, 62% of all savanna elephants. Human-elephant conflict and loss of tree diversity and structure are the major concerns in this area. A 35-year study of vegetation in Chobe National Park documented a steady decline in riparian forest and woodland vegetation. The riverine forest disappeared completely between 1985 and 1998. There seem to be far too many elephants to maintain that ecosystem.

The focus on too few or too many might be the wrong angle. Historically, elephants were seldom confined to one area for very long. In his 1934 book Mammals of South West Africa, Captain Shortridge noted that elephants were “tireless walkers” that “cover hundreds of miles trekking backwards and forwards from one drinking place or feeding ground to another”. They would gather in large numbers in areas where good rains had fallen, but only till the surface water dried up and they needed to move on. This resulted in a natural grazing rotation system, giving vegetation time to recover and reducing over-use.

 

In Namibia’s Kunene Region, Shortridge noted that “elephants were wet season migrants to southern Kunene”. Today, with borehole water available throughout the area, the Kunene elephant population has grown and become resident. Their permanent presence can be argued to be a man-made phenomenon. Increased human-elephant conflict across much of Kunene’s farmland has been widely reported, and damage to vegetation is being observed.

 

A long-term solution proposed by the renowned elephant scientist Rudi van Aarde and others is re-establishing space and corridors for elephants to move over long distances. This is easier said than done. Africa’s human population has grown from just under 285 million in 1960 to over 1.5 billion today. Is there enough space for elephants and us? Can we realistically make enough space for elephants to move as they would have historically? If there are clear overpopulations of elephants, why should culling and hunting be forbidden at the cost of biodiversity and ecosystem balance? In such cases, conservationists need to actively manage wildlife (including elephants), and all available options need to be considered, including lethal ones. In some cases, not acting quickly results in devastating habitat destruction and starvation of wildlife, including elephants.

 

One example is Madikwe National Park in South Africa, a 75,000-hectare fenced park surrounded by densely populated rural settlements. In 1992-93, the population of 219 elephants was thriving. Over the years, the negative effects of a growing elephant population became evident. A few were caught and relocated to other parks, but a government policy banning culling, largely driven by a fear of international uproar, meant the population continued to grow.

 

A drought in 2024 pushed Madikwe’s elephant-damaged vegetation over the edge. Pictures of skeletal, starving elephants hit the headlines. The NSPCA charged Provincial Park Management with animal cruelty for poor management. The elephant population has reached over 1,600 animals, which is one elephant every 43 hectares. Imagine the effect on the ecosystem. Finding a home for the excess elephants, or even the logistics of catching and relocating such a large number of animals, is impossible. It is clear that culling is needed in addition to translocations, contraception, feeding, and other options.

Conclusion

 

In an age where a buffet of information, opinion, facts, and lies is available, and sometimes even forced upon us, it’s easy to reach Mount Stupid rapidly and condemn the actions of conservationists. To truly understand issues such as hunting or culling and make positive contributions towards preserving our biodiversity and ecosystems, we need to leave the false clarity from the mountaintop and descend into the Valley of Despair with studious and critical thought. Ultimately, science needs to regain its popularity and importance to generate targeted and objective knowledge to drive management and public education.

About the Author

Morgan Hauptfleisch is Director of Research at the Namibia Nature Foundation, Oppenheimer Generations Research Fellow in People and Wildlife, Extraordinary Professor at North-West University, and Adjunct Professor at the Namibia University of Science and Technology.

Into The Thorns

Chapter Ten

 

The Ethics

 

The hunters found a track yesterday, shortly after noon, and followed it south towards the escarpment. It was a big elephant. His tracks indicated that he was old and had experienced some kind of mishap with his back left foot which, every now and then, when the elephant trod in the soft red dust, showed a scarred or raised ridge. For the first four hours the elephant did not stop. He did not feed and he ignored several clear trickling streams. He was, the hunters said, “on a mission”. But as evening crept in, the Zambezi Valley escarpment was no longer a soft blurred hazy blue. The tired group could now clearly make out the rock formations, individual trees and bush-thickened crevasses. Still the tracks headed south towards these hills, but now several shrubs had been ripped from the rocky soil and the bull had chewed on their roots as he walked. He was slowing down. The wind was still good, coming down off the escarpment and into the faces of the hunters but it was no longer heavy and hot, it was cool, and gentle.

 

The hunters found a small grassy basin protected from the wind safely out of any elephant road or buffalo trail, and they sat, exhausted, and drank water. There would be no fire tonight. No loud talking or laughter which could alert the elephant. They ate their cold sandwiches and as the now chilly breeze pushed the last of the sunlight over the edge, the purple then black of the African night fell into the valley and quickly the glittering stars came out. A hyena questioned up in the hills, but no one answered.

 

The American was both tired and sore. This was the twelfth day of his sixteen days in which he must collect his bull elephant. He had planned and dreamed and anticipated this safari for nine years. He had wanted it like some people want a new car, or a new house, or retirement. It was not so much that he wanted the elephants teeth, or his skin, or his feet, or tail. He wanted the experience. He wanted to experience the feeling, the adventure, the danger, the smells, the hardship. He wanted to experience the hunt. This man had an inner craving to tramp the trails of two hundred years past. He craved to endure, and satiate himself with a time of Africa that had slipped away into torn, sepia-toned photographs and nearly forgotten memories of adventure, and a kind of romance.

 

He had now done these things and was pleased. His guide and friend also loved these things and was also a part of them. He loved them but he also loved that be had been a part of this adventure before it could no longer be had. So he was pleased, and tired, but he was anxious too. The experience by itself, with no conclusion, was a half-full cup. There must be a conclusion. They must find the elephant and the hunter must take the life of the elephant if his tusks are big enough. If he is old enough. Or, the hunters may see that the elephant has old broken tusks and is of no value to them as a trophy, and they will let him go on his way.

 

So actually, the teeth of the elephant are the important thing, really. Or are they? What is the mark, or the reward, or the measure, of this hunt? Whether the beautiful teeth of the elephant ring the stone fireplace or whether they remain in the aging head of the beast matters not to the experience of the hunt, which has been full and perfect. So why the anxiety? How will the hunter feel really, when he has spent twenty thousand hard-earned dollars, and has walked hundreds of rough hot miles in the wilderness and goes home empty-handed with experiences only? Will he feel complete? Or will he feel let down, disappointed, and short-changed in some way?

 

Why does he want the teeth of the elephant to be big? The elephant is old, with a very large body. The hunters say that they strive to, and pride themselves in culling the old, past-breeding bulls who are approaching the last trek in life’s walk. So why do they care, or place emphasis, on the beauty or weight of the teeth? Is it recognition they are seeking – a little bit of fame will now come the hunter’s way if the ivory is heavy? Is it because he will be able to ignite admiration, or envy, from his peers? Does he think that he will be a different, better man if he shoots an elephant with eighty-pound tusks than if he shoots one with thirty-pound tusks? If the truth is, like he says, that the hunt itself is the reward, why does he care whether the tusks are old and broken, or if they are old and long? The hunters huddle down in their sleeping bags and look up into the night and the American whispers.

 

“How far ahead do you think he is”? The professional hunter laughs quietly. “Who knows? He has walked hard and straight for six hours. I think he was headed for the escarpment for a reason. I don’t think he is spooked. His dung has not been loose, and dropped and scattered whilst running. The wind has been good. Maybe he knows of a secret tree, a place where something has come into fruit. Sometimes, elephants just pack up and go. Who knows the reason? Tomorrow, hopefully, we will find out. Go to sleep”.

 

But he did not sleep. After all these miles, not only today, but for the last twelve days, after all these miles, will he shoot an old, broken-tusked thirty pounder? The trophy fee on the elephant is a further twelve thousand. He has already spent twenty. “Shall I spend twelve thousand to pull the trigger for part of a second?” “Should I count my blessings and be thankful that for twenty thousand I have given myself this fantastic experience? One that will  not be around for much longer?” “I have walked in the wilderness. I havewalked in the past. Shall I just look at the elephant? And irrespective of his size, let him go?” Once more, further away, the hyena called into the night but now no one heard him.

 

The hunters, two trackers, a game scout, the professional hunter and the American, woke up stiff and cold. They drank no tea. They packed their sleeping bags, wiped the dew from their rifles and began to climb into the Zambezi Valley escarpment on the tracks of the bull.

 

It was four o’clock in the afternoon when they saw him for the first time. At ten o’clock they had stopped in a densely wooded thicket that smothered a small clear spring way up in the hills. The elephant had spent time in this glade and had fed and rested there some time during the night. The hunters had eaten the cold boiled eggs and some bread and then they too had pushed on, more carefully now, as the heated wind was beginning to whirl and eddy. Nomzaan, the number two tracker, saw the bull first. He was a long way off, still moving. He was moving slowly, but was moving none the less. The hills of the escarpment are quite open, mostly seas of gently undulating red brown and yellow grass. The trees are sparse and only thicken up in the streambeds and down along the base of the hills, so it was easy to see the tusks of the bull elephant. The two trackers, in unison, uttered “Hau!” while the professional hunter whispered “My God!” and the American and the game scout said nothing.

 

This was one of the few. This elephant was over seventy years old and must have lived many of those years in the protected National Park areas. But an old bull like this cannot stay in one place, he is compelled by something, some ancient urge, to walk the old elephant roads and visit far away swamps in which his father and grandfather before him had submerged their old grey bodies. He has escaped poachers, landmines and hunters. He has seen everything there is to see in the African bush. He is a living monument to old unspoiled Africa. He is nearing the end of his days.

 

“My God, he is the biggest elephant bull I have ever seen – his tusks curl into the grass – he’s a giant! He’s got to be near a hundred!” “A hundred pounds? each side?” The American was incredulous. “Yes! It’s too far to judge, I’m getting carried away! But he is the elephant of ten lifetimes. Nomzaan! The wind!” The trackers checked the wind with their ash bags. The government game scout walked up. “What is it? You see the bull?” asked the professional hunter. “I see him Sah. But the boundary of the Sapi is very near. The elephant is going back along the escarpment to the Mana. We cannot hunt in the Sapi”.“Yes I know, the boundary is near, you are correct. But I believe the boundary is on that small stream, the Silazi which is still ahead”. The scout said nothing.

 

The elephant was now nearly out of sight, heading west over a ridge, toward the Sapi. The hunters had new energy now and they dropped down the rough hills to the north. The breeze was coming off the escarpment from the south and eddying dangerously west, and the hunters had to try to circle around downwind from the bull’s chosen path.

 

It was a frantic, sweating half hour and the hunters dropped their backpacks in the shade of a mahogany tree and went on, carrying only their rifles and their water and once more, they saw the elephant. But still, he was moving. He was close to two hundred and fifty yards away, walking slowly through the sea of grass. The hunters conferred. The professional hunter’s face was tight with anguish. “We have to run, that dark line of trees is the Silazi, our boundary. We have to run like hell.” They ran. The hills in the Zambezi Valley are strewn with cannon-ball sized rocks and they are ankle twisters. The American was the first to go down but the others dragged him up and on they went. Noise was no longer a factor. They had to catch the bull before he crossed the boundary.

 

When the group came panting and wheezing up to the crest of a small ridge where they had last seen the bull, they began to search frantically with binoculars but it was the game scout who saw him. The elephant was still ambling along, slowly, but surely, below the hunters about one hundred and fifty yards away. The tall, gaunt old bull was about forty yards away from the Silazi, his head down, pushing those curved ivory columns along in front of him as if concentrating on keeping them in line, obedient, out of the stones and dirt. The professional hunter grabbed the double-barrelled rifle out of the American’s hands and thrust it at Nomzaan then be reached over towards the number one tracker, Uboyi, and took hold of the scoped .416 and pushed it into the hunters chest.

 

“Take him, take him! In the lungs! Lean on this anthill here! Come on! Take him, I’ll back you up!”

 

The American scuffled onto the anthill. He was shaking. His whole body  was shaking. He looked through the scope and saw the giant, saw his longivory poles and saw his long thick slow-motion legs. Time slowed. Swish, swish, swish went the legs. Flap, went the ears. Swish went the legs in the American’s throbbing skull. His breathing slowed, the hours of campfire talk echoed hollowly in his head.

 

“Elephant hunting is a hunt of the legs and the heart -you have to walk him, you have to track him and walk him and find him.” “Elephant hunting is not shooting. Elephant hunting is endurance, and a matter of the heart!” “You find him, and you go into the bush for him. You get close, then you snick the safety off your double and you get five yards closer! You can smell him! You look up into his deep red-brown eye, and knowing now, that he will kill you, you kill him.”

 

But he looked now, over his high-powered .416, through the scope at the great bull as he left the grass angling for the stream. Swish went the great legs in the scope. Swish, swish, swish.

 

This book is a book for hunters. It is not a book that has been published in the hope that pro-hunting argument will reach out there to the anti hunters. There are numerous papers which have been published which argue the hunting case far more eloquently and completely than I could. So this chapter has not been cobbled together in order to drag out the well-known reasons why hunters hunt. I have included it in order to try to address the questions of ethics applied to hunting leopard by several different methods. But as can be seen by the story of the elephant hunt above, one thought, or one statement, or one answer, can, and does, lead off to another question and another unexpected branch in the stream, and it helps to illustrate one thing – that ethics are dictated by many different circumstances and traditions and cultures. We may not all have the exact same feelings in one particular situation as somebody else might.

 

Would you have shot the great elephant?

 

To state the obvious, ethics are involved every day, in every walk of life, in business, in war, in school, in marriage, in sport – the examples are endless. You don’t cheat at cards, you don’t pick up your golf ball, you don’t shaft your partner in business – ethics mean the relating to, or treating of, morals. Every hunter knows the black and white of ethics pertaining to hunting – it would be pointless to list them here. The debate, or questions which I feel compelled to address, are the “grey areas”. More specifically, the grey areas concerning hunting leopard.

 

The elephant hunt brings home what I mean by the “grey area”. Is the American hunter legally allowed to kill the elephant? Sure. Would you and I, would most of us kill this elephant? Sure we would. It is legal, it is a once in- a-life time elephant – you have worked like hell to come up to him, you deserve him, plus, you will be killed by your professional hunter if you don’t take the shot. But, isn’t there also that sneaking, stubborn, righteous pride when you hear that he doesn’t pull the trigger? That he set himself certain standards, certain ethics, that he would hunt elephant by? And shooting a twelve-thousand-pound animal at a hundred and fifty yards with a scoped .416 failed these standards.

 

Every one of us is different, and although we may agree, in most cases, on the black and white areas, we have to respect that our feelings or perceptions when confronted with the grey areas, may differ from person to person. So we approach the issue on ethics pertaining to leopard hunting. Hunting leopard over bait, hunting leopard at night with the use of a light, and hunting leopard with hounds. These are the three main issues. The ethics of hunting leopards with hounds is covered in the chapter “Enter the Hounds” so I will not address it again here.

 

Safaris in Zimbabwe are operated on three types of land designation. Big game government concessions which are owned and managed by the government, Communal Lands, which are also government owned, and finally, private land.

 

Big game safari concessions, like Matetsi in the northwest and Chewore in the far north, in the Zambezi Valley, are put out to auction every five years or so. The safari operator who wins the auction gets to operate safaris on these areas. These areas are land which has been set aside solely for the purpose of safari hunting. They are wilderness areas. No people, save those connected with the safari operation, live on this land. These areas are closely controlled by the Department of National Parks and Wildlife as they bring significant amounts of foreign currency into the country. Leopard, and in fact game in general, live out their lives in these areas largely unmolested by humans in the way which nature intended. On the smaller concessions, like Matetsi, where each unit or area is about eighty thousand acres in extent, the influence, or effect of man, is more pronounced, more intrusive for the game, than in big concessions like Chewore north, for example, which is nearly half a million acres. But when compared to communal land, or private land, even these smaller concessions are “unspoiled”.

 

Because of this absence of human activity on concessions, leopard behave in a very similar fashion to those which live in National Parks. They are not purely nocturnal. They move and hunt and carry out life’s functions in daylight hours as well as the night. Because of this, in the pursuit of “fair play” or ethics, you cannot hunt at night on a government area. There is no need to really. If you work hard and do your job correctly, and of course, receive your allocation of luck, you will draw a leopard onto your bait in the daylight. But I should make it clear here that it is no walk in the park. Any, and all leopard hunting requires skill, determination and self-discipline.

 

Communal land, once known as “Tribal Trust Land” is similar to what Americans know as “Reservations”, where the Native Americans have been allocated land so that they can live in their traditional manner. And so it is in Zimbabwe. The communal lands are where most of the population live in their traditional rural way. Communal lands vary greatly across the country. Some are more amenable to coercing a living from the soil than others. Some are closer to the main centres of commerce and communication than others, and some are harsh areas of dry bush land way off the beaten track, often butting onto National Parks and safari areas. These less-populated, more remote communal lands often have both resident and transient game populations which vary greatly from area to area depending on human activity and weather patterns. The people who live in these areas often suffer from the attentions of elephant in their hard-won crops and predators killing their goats, sheep, cattle and donkeys. In Zimbabwe, a successful programme called “Campfire” has been implemented and these projects have greatly assisted the rural people. They have protected and enhanced game populations and they have helped bring foreign money into the economy. Campfire is an acronym for Communal Areas Management Programme for Indigenous Resources, and it deals not only with wildlife, but other natural resources like timber. With these Campfire projects, some of the money paid by safari operators and by foreign hunting clients, is ploughed back into the community. The theory is that if the local rural people realise some material benefit from this controlled hunting, then they will curb their poaching activities and husband the wildlife.

 

But wild animals, especially leopards, live a different life on these communal lands than their brethren do on the concession areas. The predators – lion, hyena and leopard – because of the human activity, have become almost totally nocturnal. It is a situation which prompts some thought. In the more remote parts of Masailand, in Tanzania, the amount of human activity is probably similar to that in the Zimbabwe communal lands. But in Masailand, the predators are not only nocturnal, they are active during the daytime too. As long as they do not molest the Masai livestock, the Masai leave them alone to live out their lives as nature intended them to. This has been the status quo in Masailand for hundreds of years. The Masai tradition is to live happily as neighbours with the wildlife. They do not eat wild game meat. But in the Zimbabwe communal lands, game has been persecuted for many many years and the animals know that the people want them in the pot. They are wild and leopard here very seldom move around in the daylight.

 

The game laws regulating hunting on these communal lands are different from those that are in effect on government concessions. Communal lands are treated in many instances like private land, and what is pertinent to this essay on leopard hunting, is the fact that one can hunt at night and one can use artificial light in these areas.

 

So much for the laws and regulations. What about the ethical considerations of private land leopard hunting? We have already pointed out that leopard, because of their predations on livestock, are going to be killed one way or another. That is not a matter of ethics it is a matter of survival. If you farm livestock in an area where predators live, then sometimes you are going to be confronted with the problem of dealing with an animal that has killed your livestock. And, sadly, in Africa, this means, ultimately, the end of all resident predators on all farmland. The first to go in so many areas in Southern Africa, were the lions. You cannot farm cattle in a lion area. The lions cannot resist eating cattle and in the last sixty years or so they have been just about wiped out in all cattle ranching areas. A sickening situation existed for many years up at the Matetsi/Hwange area in northwest Zimbabwe. A cattle rancher ran his cattle along the Matetsi safari area boundary and over the years shot literally hundreds of lions and lionesses “protecting livestock”, and this, coupled with unadjusted large lion quotas on the concessions, badly damaged the lion numbers in this part of the country. In 2005 the Department of Wildlife finally acknowledged the problem and cut the lion quota, and hopefully the situation will improve.

 

Leopard, although notorious livestock thieves, are not as one-dimensional in this pursuit as are lions, as they are able to “make do” on a much wider variety of game than lions are, and being such adaptable creatures, have been able to survive in areas where the last lowing calls of the lion cannot even be remembered.

 

People who have not hunted leopard on private land, or people who know little or nothing about hunting leopards on private land, often believe, erroneously, that shooting a leopard with the aid of a light is easy. They have heard, or read, or been told, that the leopard is blinded and freezes, deerlike, in the light. The only way to find out the truth of the matter is to seek information from those who know. It is not reasonable to form an opinion on hearsay. I do not want to sound dictatorial here – everyone has a right to their own opinion – I am saying that it should be a researched, or well-informed opinion. It should not be based on something said or bandied about by someone who is not qualified to dispense advice.

 

Fifty percent of our leopards which are successfully drawn to bait during the season, are either completely missed, wounded, or escape with no shot having been fired! And this is from double-rest sandbags at one hundred yards! If it is so easy to shoot a leopard at night with a light why are these animals wounded, or missed? The reason is it is not easy at all. The hunter is nervous and the leopard does not always present a clear easy shot, and does not “freeze” for the light!

 

This does not even take into account the enormous amount of work, and tactics that have gone into enticing a big leopard to come into your bait in the first place! So there is nothing “easy” about it! This whole book is about the cunning nature, the awareness, the contrariness of private land leopard, so it makes no sense to repeat all of that in detail here.

 

For a leopard on private ranch land to come into your bait while you are waiting in the blind, you have to be silent. You have to possess serious self-discipline you cannot sniff, or cough, or snore, or go to the toilet. You have to move gently and silently, and you have to do without your normal amount of sleep and you may have to spend more than a dozen nights out in the cold bush, away from camp. No fire, no shower, no servants, no hot meals or cold beers. You have to shoot well under difficult unfamiliar circumstances. You may do this kind of safari several times before you are lucky! You may spend gut-wrenching amounts of hard-earned cash before you finally run your shaking hand over that beautiful silky skin. There is no free lunch in hunting educated leopard on private land and anybody who says it is unsporting or unethical, has not tried it and is badly misinformed.

 

Part of our understanding, or definition, of hunting ethics seems to be grafted around how easy something is. Consider this: One client returns with his guide to camp after a hard day out in the bush. “Damn, them critters in this area are spooky, damned wild, huh?” The PH  replies, “Yes, they’re wild animals. They’re not constrained by fences, or anything else, they’re persecuted by lions, leopards, hyenas, cheetahs, wild dogs, poachers and their dogs, and of course by us hunters. They’re not tame, we have to hunt these animals, really hunt them. We have to get the wind right, and catch them unawares”. But the client is unhappy.

 

A client, on another safari, returns home to the States and is recounting his hunt “Well, it wasn’t really hunting, the game stands there looking at you, you drive up, select the one you want, and shoot it. It was like a zoo!” This fellow, too, is unhappy.

 

So the point here is that hunters want things to be difficult, but not too difficult so that they can feel that the animal has had a fair chance. We are back to the “grey area”. What may seem good or fair for one hunter, may be unacceptable to another, even though it is legal.

 

South Africa has been plagued in recent years by the “canned lion” factor. This is the story. Lions are bred in captivity and sold to foreign hunters to shoot. Sometimes the animals are shot in a small sized pen. Other times they are shot in a “large” pen. Sometimes they are released immediately before they are shot into the “large” pen. Sometimes they are released a day, or a week before, into this pen. Sometimes there is a game played by the safari operator and the client. The client knows that the lion is not a wild free roaming animal. He knows that it is has lived its whole life in a cage. But the operator spins him a yarn about how this bad old lion has forced its way under the game fence into his property and is now a marauder, killing the game on his farm. “The Lion” he says, “has probably come from the Kruger National Park”. The operator and the client play this game and pretend that they are “hunting” a wild animal. This way their “conscience” is clear. The client goes home with his trophy and bullshits anyone who wants to listen, to the story about his wild lion, and the operator goes home with the client’s money. Everyone is happy. But this practice received quite a lot of bad exposure and certain restrictions were imposed. The enclosure into which the lion was released had to be of a certain size and the animal had to be released a certain number of days before being hunted.

 

One thing surprised me during the whole “canned lion” saga, and this was the number of clients, “hunters” who were quite happy to carry out this type of hunting! The biggest association of hunters in the world – Safari Club International – changed their record books so that “record” lion shot in South Africa would have their own separate category so that they did not “taint” and unfairly compete with lions that had been hunted in a free roaming, wild state, but business went on unabated. I, personally, know of several high-ranking personalities who “hunted” these South African pen-bred lions! When this lion rearing, for hunting purposes, came under pressure, the breeders formed an association and took their case to the Department of Wildlife saying that they were providing a substantial number of jobs and they were bringing a significant amount of money into the country via the hunters and more importantly, they had legally been given permission by the government to operate these predator breeding businesses! In August 2006, the Professional Hunters Association of South Africa (PHASA) issued a statement saying that they unequivocally were against this practice of shooting pen bred lions, and would take action against any of its members who were involved in it.

 

So here, once again, we have a situation where something may in fact be legal, but ethically, it is wrong, and as hard as it is to believe, many so called “sportsmen” or “hunters” are purchasing these hunts!

 

Recently in the Orange Free State province of South Africa, the Department of Wildlife made serious efforts to try and clean up this ‘canned’ lion hunting  and they laid down restrictions governing how large an area had to be in order for a lion to be hunted, and rules were made that ensured that the lions were ‘free roaming’ and self-supportive for at least 6 months before they could be taken. These lions could not be baited and they had to be hunted on foot. A wildlife officer has to accompany all lion hunts. A step in the right direction. Several wildlife experts actually came to the defence of ‘canned’ or, more accurately, ‘farm-bred’ lion operations saying that if they were shut down, the hunting pressure on the few remaining wild lion areas in Africa would be devastating. So once more we have a grey area.

 

Hunting a pen-raised lion which has never killed its prey, has never raised  a snarl, or a claw in anger, is pathetic.

 

Hunting a lion in a 5000-acre game farm, on foot, where he has to hunt and kill his own food, and has a good chance to evade the hunters, is different. But is it ethical? Is it sporting? Once again, a grey area – personal choices. I had a client back in the early eighties who came on his first African safari and hunted buffalo and plains game. He was a likeable fellow and a competent hunter and we enjoyed a good safari together. A few years later l bumped into him at a hunting convention and he told me about a recent safari which he had undertaken in Botswana. One of the trophies he had taken was a leopard and I was interested to hear the story of that hunt.

 

The long and the short of it was that the hunters had cut some good-sized leopard tracks and followed them by truck. In Botswana there are large areas of sandy bushveld in semi-desert terrain where tracking cats, if not exactly easy, is quite common. A bushman tracker runs on the spoor whilst the hunters follow in the Land Cruiser. Eventually, in a successful hunt, the leopard is spotted when he breaks cover and is pursued by vehicle. When he has had enough and can run no longer, he turns and will sometimes charge at the vehicle. This is the kind of hunt which was described to me. I was quite surprised at this method of hunting and when my client saw the puzzlement on my face he said, “Well, it’s better than baiting – I wouldn’t shoot a leopard off of a bait!” So there is the issue. It is, what perception does an individual have of that particular situation, of that kind of hunting? Botswana enforces various limitations on the hunting of cats with bait. But some operators utilise the method described above!

 

Personally, I find that ridiculous. What skill, or hardship is there in shooting a cat from a vehicle? The fattest man on earth could do it. Of course the tracking that the bushman is carrying out is a thing of beauty, it is hunting in its purest form. If someone were to hunt on foot, with the bushman, and take a leopard, I would say that that would be the absolute pinnacle of cat hunting. I have done it several times with lion, but never with

a leopard.

 

Here is another example of a “grey area”, or rather a situation where things have been made “easier” to ensure that the hunt is successful: In the equatorial jungles of Cameroon and Central African Republic lives one of the most beautiful, elusive and sought-after trophies in all of Africa – the Bongo. Traditionally, until fairly recently, there have been only two ways that the bongo has been hunted. Firstly, by ambushing a salt lick or an open glade or swamp in the deepest, most remote piece of jungle that a hunter can get to, and secondly, by slow, painstakingly slow, “still hunting” or stalking. With the first method, the hunters usually build a “machan” or tree platform high up where they have a good clear view of an open area which they know a bongo bull frequents. The hunters sit on this platform enduring ants, mosquitoes, rain and cramping muscles in order to collect the orange ghost of the jungle. With the other method the hunter obviously has to be a man of the bush. He has to move silently, with the aid of maybe one pygmy, through the jungle, following tracks, or maybe just stopping, checking the wind, waiting, looking, and hoping for luck. Very, very difficult.

 

Unsurprisingly, the success rates on these type of hunts is very low. I had a client who had been on four bongo safaris and never even seen one! On his fifth hunt, he and his wife were sitting, exhausted, at the edge of one of the big swampy, grassy clearings found in the jungle when the wife saw movement about five yards away. Something was sneaking through the tall thick grass. My client raised his rifle slowly, silently. Out stepped a bull bongo! He shot it in the chest and that beautiful animal turned out to be one of the greatest trophy bongo ever taken! But as I have said, the success rate on these hunts was poor.

 

Some operators began to use dogs. The pygmies in Central Africa have packs of curs, similar to the cursed rural terriers of Southern Africa, but smaller in size. These dogs are skilled hunters and do not yap and bark before it is time to do so. The hunting party relies heavily on rainy weather. Without rain they are unable to find or follow bongo tracks. When it does rain, they are out looking for spoor as soon as the rain lets up. The tracks are followed by the pygmies until they feel they are close to their prey or until the bongo is spooked, and then the dogs are unleashed.

 

The yapping hounds bring the bongo to bay very quickly, and whilst his attention is focused on the dogs, the hunter must close in and finish him.

 

Success rates climbed fast.

 

Several of my leopard hunters have taken their bongo this way and I was absolutely amazed to hear this news. Some of these guys are huge, out-of-condition, indoor types who smoked like trains and could not walk quietly on concrete, let alone in the thick jungle! So once again, hunters have “made a plan” – they have found an easier way to get their trophy.

 

Ethics? Grey areas? Once again, it bears thinking about.

 

A safari operator I know well was faced with cries of ‘unethical’ when be defended hound-hunting of leopard. In his paper, written in answer to these cries, he made a point which I thought was an accurate assessment of what many, or probably most of we hunters subconsciously do. We ask ourselves a series of questions and if the answers to those questions are satisfactory, if they meet the level, or standard of fairness and honesty and acceptable morals which we hunt by, then we are okay, we are in the clear.

 

But we must not forget that we are all different, some of us see grey areas in the white, and some of us see them in the black. And unfortunately there are some out there who see nothing at all.

Into the Thorns is now available at Good Books in the Woods

www.goodbooksinthewoods.com

jay@goodbooksinthewoods.com

Buffalo Hunting – Fitness And Attitude

By Ken Moody

 

As important as gun and caliber selection is fitness and attitude. Hunting Cape Buffalo is not particularly easy and at times can be demanding, both physically and mentally. The constant walking, checking tracks, driving areas, crawling, kneeling, glassing, and blowing a few stalks all take their toll on the unprepared hunter and can turn an exciting adventure into a miserable experience for both the client and poor professional serving as guide. Second guessing the professional, looking for easier options, and flat-out quitting are all the result of the unprepared mind and body. Let’s talk attitude first, as your willingness to improve your level of physical fitness directly correlates to the positive mental attitude required to achieve it. You cannot ‘think’ yourself into decent shape. You must first realize that you’ve taken on the hunt and that certain requirements are going to be made of you. Aside from shooting accurately, you must first be positioned to make the shot, which means you have to be where the buffalo is. If you’re sitting on the truck panting for breath, you’ll never be there when needed.

 

Before booking a buffalo hunt, it is important to first ask yourself why you want to do it. Hopefully, you’ll want to undertake such a hunt because of the difficulty it entails, the danger it provides, and the feeling of euphoric success that occurs when you accomplish it. Doing the hard things properly and achieving a hunting goal such as bagging a Cape Buffalo on foot in the thick jess is admirable. Prepare your mind and body for it by first realizing the value of having the opportunity to do it and project a positive attitude when preparing to undertake it. While others waste their precious time on this earth not doing the hard things, not accomplishing much of anything, not striving to push themselves, and never taking any chances, you’ve decided to risk your very life so that you might actually live! Celebrate your decision to be one of us, the buffalo hunters, and take pride as you prepare to undertake this life-changing safari. You are not ordinary, and the decision to hunt buffalo proves it. Never forget that! Now that you have the right mindset, start to think about your level of fitness. A new gym membership is not required, as bench pressing doesn’t impress a buffalo. You can pump all the iron you like, but if you can’t walk around the parking lot, you’re of little use in the bush. Increasing your stamina is the greatest single thing you should concentrate on. Simple walking is the best solution to improving your stamina and increases your ability to stay on track longer. You don’t need to work out to fitness apps, go to spin class, do calisthenics, or employ much work out diversity to prepare for a buffalo hunt. Just increase your walking routine and think in miles, not feet. Walk a mile and see how you feel. If you’re winded, keep your routine to a mile or so until it becomes easy for you and then increase to two miles. Once you can easily walk two miles, add uneven terrain to the regimen by incorporating a few hills and valleys into your walking. Go to local parks and walk in the woods as opposed to staying on a track or street. Enjoy the routine and your surroundings as you progress.

 

Once you feel like the two-mile treks are improving your stamina, put on a backpack and carry your unloaded rifle or similarly weighted object to simulate the hunt more closely. Carry the rifle, don’t sling it. You’ll be surprised at how heavy it becomes when it’s constantly in your hands, as it should be while buffalo hunting. In time, your stamina will improve and you might actually begin to enjoy the walks. You can then begin to incorporate other aspects of the hunt into the routine by walking two miles geared up, then immediately heading to the range to shoot from shooting sticks. If possible, you might set out targets along your route and practice stopping along the route and shooting while you’re a bit winded from the walk. Th is practice will best simulate the actual hunt and help you control your breathing when you need to put bullet on target accurately.

 

Once a month, try to go for a long walk of about five miles or so. Th is action will test and improve your stamina and greatly increase your confidence when you might need to take a long track in the bush. All of these walking routines will not only improve your health, but they’ll also keep you on track longer and ensure your attitude doesn’t suffer due to an improper level of fitness. Buffalo are hunted with your feet so make sure yours can keep up and help the professional help you by showing up to hunt in reasonable shape. Everyone will be happier in the end except for the buffalo, who hopes you arrive with a breathing mask, brand new boots, and a carton of cigs in your oversized backpack. 

Bulletproof – 30 Years Hunting Cape Buffalo is a beautiful, full color, exciting read from Ken Moody. It contains good information regarding hunting cape buffalo and many adventure stories throughout its chapters.

 

“Thirty years of hunting ‘Black Death’ has provided me with many lessons and encounters and while I didn’t want to do an encyclopedia on the subject, I have created 136 pages of informative content that makes for an easy weekend read,” says Ken.

 

Purchase price is $25, which includes shipping to anywhere in the US. You can pay via Venmo at Ken Moody Safaris or PayPal @kenmoody111.  Please provide your shipping details with the order. If you’d prefer to send a check, send $25 to:
Ken Moody Safaris
POB 1510
Jamestown, TN 38556

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