On Target at 85

By Ron Machado

 

When I stepped out of my room this morning, it was cold and dark.  I grabbed a sweater near the door and went to meet my PH and his tracker.  They were waiting near our hunting truck and within a few minutes, we were on our way.

 

But let’s back up a few months to lay out this hunt.

 

Early this year, I turned 85 and wanted to do something different for my birthday.  I contacted an old friend, Carl van Zyl, the owner of John X Safaris in South Africa, and spoke with him about hunting a Cape buffalo.  I had taken a Cape buffalo many years ago, but this time, I wanted a Dagga Boy, an old buffalo that had been kicked out of the herd by the younger males and was forced to live out his remaining years alone.  We agreed on a time for the hunt, and I sent off the deposit.  Several months passed, and after a two-day flight, I was in South Africa; more closely, I was at Woodlands.  Woodlands is the main ranch for John X Safaris.

 

That is how I ended up, sitting in a nearly new Toyota pickup with my PH, Clayton, his tracker, Bull, and a professional video operator, Aiden, looking at different animals and getting some great photography of the many wild game species.  Yes, there were Cape buffalo, hundreds of them, but none were Dagga Boys.

 

Late in the morning, we had driven to the top of a ridge and spotted a large herd of Cape buffalo drinking at a waterhole and got out of the truck to glass them.  There were several nice buffalo in that herd, but that was the problem; I wanted a loner, one that had been kicked out.  After a short time, Bull pointed to a dark spot a long way off in a large treeless pan; a shallow area where, during the rainy season, water collects, making a small lake for the animals to drink.  Because the rainy season didn’t start for another month, the pan was dry. Our binoculars only told us that it was a dark spot.  Clayton went to the truck and retrieved his spotting scope, setting it on the hood of the truck and watching the spot for a few minutes. Then he turned and said, “It’s a buffalo, and that’s all I can say.  We need to get closer.”

 

With that, we drove down the hill and past the waterhole as the buffalo there quickly exited on the far side.  We approached the area near the pan but could not see them because of a stand of trees.  Clayton pulled to the side of the trail, looked at me, and asked, “Are you ready for a walk?”  And therein could lie the problem.  Being well into my eighty-fifth year, my knees aren’t in the best condition. Looking at him and smiling, I replied, “Hell, yeah.”

 

As we started in single file, Clayton said, “Walk slowly, and watch you don’t make any noise.” We moved through the trees, for several hundred yards, and came to the open area.  We could see the buffalo about 130 yards away, lying in the sun sideways to us, his head facing away.  Clayton motioned me to his side.

 

“I can only see one half of its horns. But the one side looks good,” he said quietly.

 

“If one side is good, I don’t care about the other.  It doesn’t matter if it is broken or not,” I replied. Nodding his approval, he set the gun on the shooting sticks and put me in place for the shot.  We waited, as the animal was still sleeping.  Clayton whispered, “When he stands, he will take a few minutes to stretch.  That is when you will take the shot.”  Time passed with me on the sticks, Aiden with his camera over my shoulder, and Clayton and Bull waiting.  What felt like an hour and was actually only ten minutes or so, the buffalo stood, turned towards us, took a healthy dump, and started walking directly towards us.

 

“He is coming to the water,” Clayton whispered. “Shoot him low in the chest.”  But its head was held low, covering its chest and the buffalo offered no shot.  Closing the distance to about sixty yards, it started moving to its left, opening up a part of its right leg and chest.  I squeezed the trigger, and my shot hit low on its chest, just inside the leg. The buffalo turned, dust flowing off its back and, moving sharply to its left, it crashed into the brush at the side of the open area.  We approached the animal with our guns ready when Clayton, smiling, said, “This hunt is over.”

 

I had my Dagga Boy.

 

Note: For anyone who is concerned about the meat, none of the buffalo was wasted.  We the hunters enjoy what we shoot.  Also, John X Safaris sponsors a school for local children and provides all the meat and side dishes, and also donates to a food pantry that helps feed local families.  Nothing is wasted.

Bow, Arrow and a Bosbok

By Frank Berbuir

 

 

It is end of August and I am lucky to be back again in South Africa to hunt with bow and arrow.

We are on a nice farm, managed by a lovely couple, on the border of the North West Province close to the Limpopo Province. We are familiar with our small hunting camp – our Jagkamp – from a former trip.

 

 The landscape and scenery along the Crocodile River is stunning. There are some challenging and very rocky mountains, as well as dense bush and open plains, and we try our luck on stalking in these mountains for a bushbuck. However, because of the sharp rocks and high grass everywhere, it is not only difficult and noisy, but also risky – falling on these sharp-edged stones or twisting one´s ankle is not what we need.

 

In Africa everything is defending itself!  Every bush and tree has thorns, the stones are jagged and sharp, and even the grass sometimes has barbs. So we have decided to sit in a pop-up blind close to a natural waterhole. Izak, my experienced PH, chose this location because of several bushbuck that roam in this area. Our day starts early with a 30-minute morning walk to the blind. It is quite crisp but slowly the sun rises and makes us feel comfortable. First early morning visitors are guinea fowls running around the waterhole followed by other colorful birds.

 

Our 360-degree ground blind.

Giraffes close by our blind.

 Buffalo encounter on our way to the blind.

 

After an hour a black stork landed and started hunting for fish. Roughly an hour later three giraffes came close to the blind. Then it became quiet for the morning. In the afternoon we were sitting there again when suddenly from the mountains a herd of ten mountain reedbuck walked to the water. There was a stunning buck in the group but he was not what we were looking for. They stayed quite a while and it was interesting to observe them and their behavior, especially the youngsters that started playing around. Surprisingly, they were alerted and moved quickly away when a bunch of baboons came to the waterhole with a lot of noise. It was more or less over for that day when the light faded away and the baboons had finally left.

 

On our way to the blind the next morning we had a unexpected encounter with some buffalo that luckily were not interested in us at all and moved into the bush, but anyway that wakes you up when you are as close as 50 meters. After about three hours in the blind nothing had happened except for some doves and francolins flying around. Around 9 o´clock suddenly Izak tapped on my shoulder pointing to the right and murmured: “Frank, there is a bushbuck standing behind a tree. You better make yourself ready.” I saw it and could feel my blood pressure rising. Quietly I lifted my bow and soundlessly put an arrow on the rest. The bushbuck started moving slowly forward, staring at our blind. We both sat motionless in our chairs. Luckily the ram went into the right direction and would probably come right in front of our blind at about 25 meters.

“Stay calm and focused,” I reminded myself. Finally, after about two minutes that felt like eternity, indeed the buck stood in front of our blind.

 

“Wait until he is calm and will lower his head for drinking,” Izak whispered. Luckily the bushbuck turned slightly to the waterhole and offered a quartering away position.

   Equipment:

   Bow: Mathews Z7x @ 70 lbs

   Arrow: Carbon Express Maxima Hunter 350

   Broadhead: Silverflame 2-Blade @ 125 grain

   Optics: Zeiss Victory Binocular & Nikon Rangefinder

   Release: Scott

   Camo: Sniper Africa

Now was the right time to smoothly pull my bow at full draw and set the dot of my sight on his vitals.

With a slight tap on the trigger of my release, the arrow flew on its deadly mission, and within a split second hammered into and through the antelope. The ram jumped up, turned around and ran back in the direction he came from, but after roughly 50 meters we could see him stumbling, falling down, and finally expiring.

 

What an extraordinary performance again of my bow and arrow. We waited for a couple of minutes before we stepped out of the blind and walked to the bushbuck.

 

Overwhelmed and more than happy with this awesome trophy animal, Izak and I knelt next to him, and after a few minutes of silence in respect, we arranged the buck for some pictures. Back at our camp the “Happy Hour” beer tasted excellent.    

 

Once again, I had a tremendously good hunt with unforgettable impressions and memories in South Africa.

Shoot straight, take care, and always good hunting – “Waidmannsheil” and “Alles van die beste.” 

The beautiful landscape along the Crocodile River.

Habitat of the bushbuck.

View from our blind.

Landscape of North-West.

Bio

 

German hunter Frank Berbuir is passionate about the outdoors and hunting – especially bowhunting, which he has practiced for more than 25 years. Although he’s bowhunted in several countries, he’s become addicted to hunting in Africa since his first safari in 2004.  Frank is a mechanical engineer and a director for supplier quality development in the automotive industry.

A Leopard For Günter

By Sidney Lovell-Parker

 

August, 2024

 

The year was 2004, and I was finalizing the analysis for a potential offshore oil discovery between Portugal and Spain for the Italian company I worked for when my secretary interrupted saying that my friend Mike (Marco Antônio Moura de Castro) had already called three times wanting to speak to me. I returned the call curious and wondering what could be so urgent. Mike answered my call promptly, greeting me with the hearty laugh he had.

 

Mr. Parker” and another laugh. I knew that the call was not to give me anything and then came the request, “I need a big favor from you………

 

At the time, Mike was the president of the Safari Club International – Chapter Brazil, a position he was proud of. He had hunted with me about four times, twice in Zimbabwe, once in Bolivia and once in Mozambique. He was a good friend and an excellent travel companion. Unfortunately, he passed away two years ago. Mike was a hunter and collector. As president of the SCI, he had contact with hunters from many places and was involved in the social aspect, an activity he loved.

 

Mr. Parker, I have a German/Canadian friend of mine, a member of the SCI, who is in Rio for just two days and would really like to meet you. He saw your photo with a Leopard in the SCI magazine and would like to know what your experience was like.”

 

If there is one thing I don’t like to do, it is socializing, but I couldn’t refuse a request from my friend. He asked if he could share my contact information and I said yes. An hour later my cell phone rang and it was the German/Canadian. “Sidney Parker, I’m Günter Strangemann and Mike gave me your contact information.” We arranged to have lunch the next day.

 

The next day, a Friday, I called Günter and we arranged to have lunch at a steakhouse called Esplanada Grill, which was very convenient for me since it was two blocks from my office in Ipanema. We agreed to meet at the restaurant at 3:00 p.m. The lunch time seemed strange to Günther because it was so late, and he asked me twice during the call to confirm the time.

 

In Rio, it was common on Fridays that business people work until mid afternoon and then go out for lunch and relax, meeting up with acquaintances (friends or not). I arrived about ten minutes early, told the doorman that my guest was coming, and got a table near the entrance in a quieter place so we could talk.

 

At 3:00 p.m. sharp, a tall, burly man with red cheeks entered the restaurant, looking like a big bear. I looked straight at him and said, “Welcome to Rio, Günter. ”Mr. Parker I presume”, he replied, plagiarizing the famous journalist Henry Morton Stanley.

We sat down at the table, ordered drinks, and started talking. It was actually Günter telling his stories. He had hunted almost everything in various places around the world. Lions, elephants, hippos, rhinos, and all the antelopes and gazelles found in Africa. Not to mention the animals hunted in other parts of the world. The only one of the Big Five that he had not managed to collect was the Leopard. He had tried three times and failed every time. He had seen several signs of Leopards in the various areas he had tried, but had never seen one.

He was in Argentina hunting red deer and saw an article in a magazine that featured one of the leopards I had hunted. When he arrived in Rio, he contacted, Mike, asking for information on how to contact me. I then asked how long he had known Mike, and he replied that he had not actually met him personally and that he had only spoken to him on the phone when he asked for help in locating me. I burst out laughing, and Günther did not understand why I was laughing. We had been sitting for two hours eating an excellent sliced picanha. Günther was telling his stories and I was listening most of the time. Did I really understand that the reason for our meeting was for me to share my experience of hunting two giant leopards? After a few caipirinhas I think neither of us knew.

 

I checked my watch and it was almost seven o’clock. We had been sitting there talking for almost four hours. I asked for the bill and we left. Günther was staying at the Meridian Hotel at the beginning of Copacabana and I offered to drive him. On the way back he told me that he had not planned to go through Rio after his hunting trip in Argentina; it was an impulse decision after seeing my Leopard in the magazine. He then bought a ticket from Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro and then São Paulo, where he would catch the flight back to Canada. Since he was hunting in Argentina, he was carrying his rifle with him. Upon arriving at Galeão airport in Rio de Janeiro, the rifle was seized by the federal police. After much explanation, the tax officer told Günther that the rifle would be kept in custody at the Federal Revenue Service and that when he left the country, he could check the rifle on the flight to Canada.

 

Something told me that things would not be that easy. I then asked my new friend to show me the tickets, which he promptly did. Looking at the tickets, I realized what I had feared. One ticket was Buenos Aires – São Paulo – Toronto. The other one purchased in Argentina was Buenos – Rio and another one was Rio – Guarulhos (São Paulo). This meant that he could not ship his rifle directly from Rio to Toronto. In other words, he had to enter the country with a rifle and without a license to do so and take a domestic flight Rio – São Paulo and then board an international flight to Toronto.

 

I looked at him and said, “Günter, we have a problem.” Your flight to São Paulo tomorrow is at 10:30, but I will stop by the hotel to pick you up at 5:00. I explained the situation to Günther and left. That day at 5:00 in the morning, I picked Günther up at the hotel and we headed to the airport. On the way, he asked me if I could plan to take him hunting a leopard. I said yes, next year, 2005. After much conversation, I managed to resolve the situation with the rifle and my new friend boarded the plane back to Canada.

 

Three weeks later after meeting Günter, I called Wayne Grant to arrange and book the hunt. It was late November 2004. Wayne is a good friend of mine. He was born in Bulawayo, Southern Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe, in 1960. He began hunting professionally in 1980 and set up his own operation in 1985. We met in the early 1990s and have hunted together several times in Zimbabwe, Tanzania and Mozambique and have become good friends. He is without doubt the best PH I know and I know several. He is the author of two excellent books, “Into The Thorns” (on Leopard) and “Drums of The Morning” (Lion). Both books describe some of our hunts.

It was late November 2004. I explained the whole meeting with Günter and said that I would really like to take him hunting a leopard. Wayne said that I had already scheduled a client to hunt a leopard with me at the end of May 2005 and asked me if I intended to return to Africa twice that year or extend my stay to do the second hunt. I replied that my idea was to do both hunts in the same period. He would find another experienced PH to guide Lamberto (the Brazilian hunter) and he and I would do Günther’s hunt. Wayne cautioned, “Sid, you know very well that having two clients in the same area with the same objective, leopard, is not ideal”.

 

Of course I knew, but the area that Wayne had control over was quite large and with many animals and also cattle. Leopards are territorial animals and the size of their territory is proportional to the amount of food available. The more prey you have, the smaller your territory will be. Wayne obviously knew that. “Okay,” he said, “I don’t have any quotas left at the moment, but if there’s a cancellation, the spot is yours. I’ll keep you posted.

 

In early 2005, Günther would call me from time to time to check if everything was okay or sometimes just to chat. My German friend did not communicate by e-mail. The few times I sent him a written message I never received a reply. In one of these calls, in March, he told me that he would really like to bring a friend and wanted to know if it was possible. I asked if it would be just as an observer or if he intended to hunt as well. Before getting a reply, I said that another leopard would not be possible but that he could hunt plains game. I had already arranged a leopard hunt with Lamberto for the same period, in the same region and staying at the same camp. This did not please Wayne at all, and I confess that it did not please me either.

 

I knew the region of our Safari well. I had already been there a few times and it was where I hunted the two large Leopards. The area is in the western Matabeleland. The Matobo Hills Range is about 120 km long and about 60 km wide. It stretches east—-west. From the Bulawayo to Beitbridge road in the east to the Botswana border in the west. The Hills run in an east west line only about 30 km south of Zimbabwe’s second largest city Bulawayo. Rhodesia’s founder Cecil John Rhodes is buried there at a place called “World´s View”.

 

Our Safari was about 70 km west of Bulawayo in the western part of the Matobo Hills Range. The area we were hunting was about 200 000 acres in extent.

 

There are two camps in the area. The northern camp on the mountain, which belongs to a good friend of Wayne´s and also of mine – Graham Robertson. This camp is very beautiful and comfortable. It has a spectacular view of the region. In the dining room there is a picture frame with photographs of the best and biggest leopards hunted in the region. My two are in that “Hall of Fame”.

 

I have great memories of all the times I stayed there. This time we were going to stay at the southern camp. This was on a property which belonged to a local rancher named Alvord Mabena. It was also very comfortable but did not have the view or the charm of the mountain camp.

Wayne used to get a quota of about ten leopards on his areas of 200 000 acres plus about 50 000 acres of nearby adjoining ranchland. The topography is primarily granite koppies interspersed with maponi woodland, acacia thorn savanna and mangwe bushveld. Because of the granite hills which provide shelter for many small animals like rats, mice, hyraxes, lizards, birds, etc, there is a good population of snakes such as cobras, black mambas and puff adders.

 

These small animals in the koppies as well as klipspringers, duikers, bushpigs, baboons, monkeys, red rock hares, guineafowl, and francolins all who live in and around the koppies, are all prey for the leopards.

 

The leopards in this region have no problem with food. It is like having a good supply of live food in the pantry at home. And if they want something bigger and perhaps juicier, they can just hunt around the koppies for a Kudu, Impala or a young cow from some farmer.

 

This is certainly one of the reasons this region produces large leopards. Because of the human presence, the leopards in this region have developed nocturnal habits. Leopards do not mind the presence of humans but have developed habits to avoid them. They are extremely smart and, why not say, “educated” to the activities of humans.

And the day arrived. Everything was ready and well organized. It was May 25, 2005. Lamberto and I were going to fly from São Paulo to Johannesburg and Günther and John from Atlanta to Johannesburg. The difference in arrival times between the flights was approximately 55 minutes. Our meeting point would be at the Johannesburg airport at the registration and entry permit counter for the rifles. I had already hired an agent to take care of all the paperwork and he would meet me there with all the documentation ready.

 

Our connection from Johannesburg to Bulawayo was tight and if we missed the flight we would have to sleep in Johannesburg and fly the next day. I wanted to do everything I could to avoid that. With the permits for the rifles in hand, we picked up our luggage and went to check in for our destination, Bulawayo.

 

When I go on safari, I travel light. Three pairs of shorts, one pair of longs for special occasions, five shirts, three T-shirts, three pairs of socks, my Clark desert boots, one pair of sneakers, one light jacket and one for cold nights, two caps and underwear. That’s all I need. When you go on safari, you have daily laundry service at the camp.

 

When I saw John’s luggage, I almost fell over. John was carrying his rifle in a suitable, normal box, and another bag in the shape of a tube, approximately 1.5 meters high and about 0,60 meters in diameter. Very similar to those bags that you see in movies soldiers carrying on their backs to embark on a battle. When the bag was weighed, it came to 35 kg, that is, well above the permitted amount.

 

John, embarrassed, offered to pay the amount for the excess weight, but the employee explained that it was not a question of paying, but that it was not permitted because it exceeded the maximum weight that the porters could carry. That said, I asked for the key to what we later named the “grocery store” and started emptying it and distributing the contents between Lamberto, Günther and I. I almost lost my cool with what happened and we almost missed the flight.

Once on board the flight to Bulawayo I relaxed. Everything went well despite the small setback with John’s overweight luggage. As the safari progressed the contents of this bag proved to be   this proved to be a godsend. We landed and Wayne was waiting for us along with Bee, his main tracker at the time. We then headed straight to camp.

 

Our camp consisted of four en suite bungalows. The first and main one was Günther’s, then mine, separated by the fireplace. Further to the right and ahead was the dining room. Immediately after that were two en suite chalets where Lamberto and John were accommodated. Behind that were the PH’s accommodations and to the rear were the rest of the staff.

 

The next day Wayne and I met early to plan the day. I was responsible for taking the three of them to test the rifles. There is talk that this is necessary to check that the scope has not become unadjusted during the trip. This story is a not the only reason.  In reality, the aim is to check how well each person shoots and to assess Handling speed and accuracy. A scope that is correctly positioned and well secured with screw glue will not move unless there is a major disaster, and then the concern should be different.

 

I focused on helping Lamberto and with his second shot I saw that something was very wrong. He hadn’t even hit the target bench. Looking from above I could see from the small scratches on the scope’s tube that it was moving with each shot. I tried to explain to him but he didn’t want to listen and continued to waste ammunition. It was fine if that was what he wanted as long as he didn’t put anyone at risk in the hunt.

 

I then turned to John. He was not only a very good shot, but also a very fast one. He had, in my opinion, the minimum requirements needed to hunt any of the big five when it came to shooting.

 

Now I wanted to focus on my friend. Günther had a beautiful rifle, a Mannlicher caliber 9.3×64 Brenneke with a Zeiss scope. A beautiful set. We then began to practice and I soon realized that my friend was shooting reasonably well but without consistency. Sometimes the shots were a little high on the left and then a little low on the right. This was not at all good for hunting a Leopard. I decided, with Günther’s permission, to test the rifle since the results of the shots were not consistent. I fired two shots one above the other, both in the center. Now I decided to test if he would be able to shoot once the target was visible. The result, a disaster for a Leopard hunt at night.

 

There are a few ways to hunt a Leopard, most of which depend on the region and the animal’s habits in a given region. Those interested can read more about this in detail in my friend Wayne Grant’s book, “Into the Torns.” The technique we would use to hunt in this region was to bring the Leopard to us. In other words, by placing bait.

 

On this second night at camp, John revealed to us why his “Tube Bag” was so heavy. A good part of the bag was taken up by various types of cheese, pâtés, salamis, wines, cognacs and a variety of malts – some very welcome, unexpected treats.

 

On the third day Wayne and I talked before the others arrived for breakfast. We decided to make two groups. A professional hunter Bruce Cronjé would take care of Lamberto and John. The two of us would concentrate on Günther.

It would take a lot of work to get the German ready. Wayne then drew a life-size Leopard on a set of cardboards that we pieced together. We then chose a tree behind the camp and hung a real Impala as bait. Each time we tried we would place the Leopard in a different position. About thirty or forty yards away we made a curtain of blankets. Günther would be behind the curtain without seeing the scene in front of him. Günther would be shooting from a standing position with his rifle well supported on a tripod. Each time we changed the Leopard’s position for the next one. I would run the curtain and time the shot, Wayne change the position of the cardboard Leopard.

 

Everything worked perfectly except the main thing. A time of less than 2 seconds and an accuracy of less than 1 inches. We did this a dozen times until I told him to stop because I saw that the result was getting worse, probably due to the stress it was causing Günther. We stopped everything and I went straight to Günther and congratulated him: “My friend, you are going to get your Leopard. Go rest and tomorrow we will continue to place baits”. I looked at Wayne and he was looking at the sky. Praying? No! My friend is a convinced atheist.

 

The next day we left early. Wayne was driving, I was sitting next to him, Günther and Bee were in the back seat, and two other helpers were in the back. My German friend was beaming, probably because of his results from the previous day. He was laughing and telling his stories non-stop. I laughed sometimes but Wayne was serious, and every now and then he looked up at Günther and looked at me, shaking his head. He didn’t say anything and didn’t need to, I knew exactly what he was thinking.

 

At the end of the day, we only had two baits hanging. Using Impalas as bait is not practical and is expensive. An Impala costs 150 USD to make one bait. In addition, you have to hunt the Impala, which can be time-consuming. I then suggested that we buy an old cow for 200 USD, but that it would produce four baits. After agreeing on a price with the owner, Wayne took his Glock .40 and shot the cow indicated by the owner in the forehead. The next day, we would start with four baits to hang.

 

This activity is not as simple as it may seem. Sometimes you find tracks, sometimes you don’t, and based on your experience, you can imagine a place where the Leopard would like to pass. We had six baits hanging. Two Impalas and four cow baits. Now we had to let the baits start working, or rather, smelling.

 

The following days, days six and seven, were days with little activity. We checked the six baits to see if there had been any Leopard activity. Nothing. We returned to the camp and then it was party time. John’s “grocery store” still revealed delicious surprises.

 

All of us went to bed at about 10:00 pm, except Bruce and Lamberto who had had a hit on their bait and were sitting in hapis blind.

 

The next morning at 4:00 am Wayne woke me up and said that Lamberto had shot a leopard but the animal had run off into the thick forest. It was around 11:00 pm when Lamberto fired a shot at his cat.

They followed the tracks for a while but saw no sign of blood. It was a new moon night and it was completely dark. Although Lamberto was confident in his shot, Bruce decided to go back to camp and wait for daybreak and ask for our help to follow the tracks.

 

For the first time on this hunt, I took my Double out of the box. I had taken my John Rigby .470 NE, took 4 cartridges, put them in my pocket and went to meet Wayne at the Toyota. Wayne arrived at the same time and was carrying his .460 Weatherby Magnum. The .460 is the most powerful caliber I have ever shot and some Weatherby rifles are very light which makes you feel the recoil very strongly. Bee was also with us to help track the Leopard. We arrived at the point where we entered the thick bush and Bruce and Lamberto were already waiting for us. We were all prepared to follow the trail of a supposedly wounded Leopard.

 

It is an extremely dangerous operation in which every care is needed so that no one gets hurt either by the Leopard or by a shot from a companion. I loaded my Double with a soft point in the right barrel and a solid point in the left barrel. After a quick conversation, we entered the bush towards the blind. The two trackers in front followed by Lamberto and Bruce, with Wayne on the left side and me on the right side. I had already done this with Buffalo and Leopard and I can say that the adrenaline was high.

 

Our formation was in the shape of a circular arc and arriving in front of the blind we followed already seeing the signs of the

Leopard. After advancing about 15 meters, Bee saw the first drops of blood and further on a large red stain indicating that the shot had hit the lung. About 10 meters ahead, Bruce caught sight of the Leopard. It was dead. Lamberto’s shot was good, missing the heart by a few centimeters but hitting the lung; in fact, it pierced both lungs.

 

After loading the Leopard into the Toyota we returned to camp. Wayne and I, with Gunter, returned do the task of checking the baits. One of the baits was partially eaten by a Leopard!

 

Unfortunately, it ate a lot and probably wouldn’t come back the next day. Even so, Wayne decided to go to the blind with Günther and spend the night in the hope that the Leopard would return. When you have a Leopard that hits the bait, you have to check where it came in and where it left. Check the wind direction and only then decide where to place your blind. I prefer to stay away from the bait to reduce the chances of some small noise alerting the animal.

 

Nothing! The next day, nothing again. The Leopard didn’t come back. A little discouragement began to set in, with the exception of Günther who kept laughing and telling his incredible stories. We had a bait that I had a lot of faith in. It was on the bank of a river, which was dry at that time of year.

 

We had hung the bait under a small tree very close to the bank. The small tree hid the bait from vultures. We went there to inspect and see if there was any evidence of a leopard. To our delight, there was. A leopard had been there and nibbled a little, which indicated that it had found the bait at dawn and was probably already full. The footprints around it were huge. The claw marks on the tree were deep. It was clear to us that it had found the bait, an impala, at dawn and already satisfied its hunger, but with all the marks it wanted to make it clear that the meat belonged to him.

 

Looking across the river bed, we saw that the big challenge would be to find a suitable place for a blind. While on that side of the river we had plenty of vegetation, on the other side we had nothing. I never liked building a very artificial blind, but to do something in this case that looked natural would be a mission. That was what we had, so we rolled up our sleeves and went ahead. Hours later the blind was ready, comfortable and big enough to fit Wayne and Günther.

 

I crossed the river to see how it looked from the Leopard’s perspective. Perfect! Nothing looked artificial. We attached a fishing line to one of the Impala’s legs and the other across the river we attached to the blind. If anything moved in the Impala it would signal us on the other side. We were running out of time. We headed straight back to camp and once there Wayne and Günther quickly ate something and went back to the blind ready for the night.

 

They arrived at the blind around 3:00 p.m. They parked the Toyota about 300 meters away and continued on foot. Once inside the blind, Wayne took his Swarovski and began to inspect the bait and its surroundings. The bait was about 70 meters away from the blind. Wayne took the 9.3 x 64, loaded it and positioned it pointed at the bait on the other side of the river. The rifle was quite stable and at the right height for Günther to shoot from a kneeling position. Wayne unlocked the rifle and, looking seriously at Günther, said: “no more talk”. He lay down and began to read his pocket book.

 

I decided not to go with them to the blind. More than two people waiting increases the possibility of noise.

 

John had been trying to hunt a good Kudu and so far had not been successful. Bee had talked to some locals about it who told him about a place at the foot of a cliff that looked like a forest. No undergrowth but with many small trees. Actually, thin-trunked trees scattered around where a large Kudu appeared almost every afternoon. I had heard this kind of story in Africa a hundred times and most of them were dreams, or wishful thinking. The same thing in the end. I told John everything and we decided to explore the place. When we got there we saw that the description of the place was accurate.

 

There really was a forest at the foot of a cliff. It could have been a painting of a forest in Europe, full of leaves on the ground. The cliff was about 12 meters high but difficult to climb. But it was the only place where we could hide and wait for the possible Kudu. So we decided to go ahead. I started climbing, watching very carefully where I placed my hand. I told John to follow me and do the same. Every time I placed my hand, I thought it could be the place of a snake. These rocky outcrops are often frequented snakes. Black Mamba, Cobra, etc.

 

About 8 meters up there was a small plateau with a huge rock on the edge. In this region it is common to see these incredible formations. It is as if someone had placed it on the top of the cliff. This gave us good cover. I first checked to see if there were any snakes on the plateau. Fortunately, there were none, but there were a few scorpions. The sting of this small animal is rarely fatal to a healthy adult, but quite painful. I removed about four or five with the help of my cap and leaned against the large rock with my back to the small forest below. John followed my steps and did the same. It could be a long wait. Every now and then I checked the forest.

 

Around 5:00 pm during one of these checks I saw an extraordinary Impala. It was alone and its antlers must have been about 26 inches or more. For this region a record. John had already positioned himself and framed the Impala to shoot, but thinking about the Kudu that he so wanted to hunt, I did not release the shot, thinking that it might be close and would get scared and run away. It was a bad decision on my part. The Impala slowly moved away and the Kudu never showed up.

It was about 5:30 pm when John and I arrived back at camp. John was happy with the adventure and I was upset with my decision regarding the Impala. I had promised Lamberto that I would take him to test his night vision in the bush. To do so, I had asked the guys to place some baits of very rotten meat below a platform we had on a tree near the camp. As soon as I got to the camp, I had a coffee and left with Lamberto for the platform in the tree. The baits had been placed and smelled quite strong. The idea was to see if we could attract some animals like Bush Pig, Hyena, Genet Cat and Honey Badger. The idea was that Lamberto could test his new toy but if he wanted to shoot he could. The equipment really was wonderful. You could see clearly and perfectly. Lamberto lent it to me for a few moments and I watched a Genet Cat on the bait.

 

Back in the blind, Wayne was finishing one of the chapters of his paperback when suddenly the fishing line sounded like a guitar string. It was still daylight and Wayne imagined that it could have been a Kudu that had crossed the dry river and hit the fishing line with its horns. He slowly stood up and looked through his binoculars. There it was, a monstrous Leopard eating the impala bait!

 

He looked to the side and saw Günther already kneeling, positioning himself at his rifle. The seconds seemed like minutes at that moment. Wayne said, “shoot”, “shoot” and nothing. Suddenly, “Boom“. The shot

hit the Leopard in the heart and hit the spine, making that fabulous animal fall dead in its tracks. An hour later Wayne asked Günther why it had taken him so long to shoot. He replied laughing: “I was observing through the scope how majestic this animal is.” That’s Günther.

 

Meanwhile, Lamberto and I had been watching the Genet Cat for almost an hour. We could see it quite clearly when I started to hear the roar of an engine. It was coming towards us from behind. It must have been the Toyota coming to pick us up, but it was only 9 pm and I had scheduled it to pick us up at midnight.

 

The vehicle stopped, I could hear the door opening and closing and then I started to hear someone coming towards us. “Mr. Parker, we’ve come to pick you up. Wayne is calling you back to camp”. “Did they get the Leopard?” I asked. “Yes, a very big one”. I could barely contain my happiness.

 

Against all odds, we had managed to do it. When I saw the Leopard in the camp, I looked at Günther and he looked like a child with his Christmas present. He hugged me and laughed and cried. I hugged my friend Wayne and thanked him very much for all his effort. Everyone in the camp exploded in celebration. We took lots of pictures and there was free beer for everyone.

 

Two very large male Leopards in 10 days of hunting is quite an achievement.

 

We sat around the campfire, and at my request, the group began to sing the Leopard Song. This song moves me every time I hear it. It tells of a patrol of soldiers during the early colonial wars when Cecil John Rhodes´s columns were fighting the Matabele north of Bulawayo and when the Matabele warriors were surrounding the patrol in the darkness, in order to identify one another, they would call out of the names of their “impi” or unit.

 

In Wayne’s camps, it has become a tradition to sing this song every time a hunter manages to collect a leopard. The staff place the leopard in front of the fire, sit behind it and first begin to act out the hunt. One of them represents the leopard and the other the hunter. The one representing the hunter incorporates into his representation the mannerisms of the hunter observed during the hunt. In front of them sit the hunter, the PH and occasionally others. All this with lots of beer.

 

Once the representation is over, they begin to sing the leopard song, “Ingwe“. One of them sings the first note and the main group sings the second. A very primitive drum, sometimes made from a hollowed-out wooden trunk, sets the rhythm. The sound provokes great emotion in me. The drinking continues on both sides of the fire and the song is repeated several times. I have witnessed picturesque scenes at the end when everything is dark and it is difficult to find the bungalow or tent. When I hunted my two leopards, I confess that I had difficulty finding my bungalow.

 

I have all these moments and the Leopard Song well preserved in my memory: “Ingwe! Ingwe Banile? Ingwe msila, hela ma bala, ingwe msila! Mana lapha, se nkhlume lowe, ingwe msila”. (Leopard !Who is the leopard ? Leopard, with tail, he has spots, leopard, his tail. Wait there ! We wish to speak with you, Leopard, tail)

 

These si´ndebele words passed down through generations – about a battle fought so long ago, create a haunting mood of Africa, and the beautiful way these Africans sing this song, seemed a perfect end to our successful double leopard hunt.

One for the Road

By Terry Wieland

 

But what about snakes?

 

What about them?

 

It’s been a while since I wrote anything about snakes and, to be honest, I haven’t missed it.  Writing about snakes requires thinking about snakes and not being a snake guy, my mind prefers to dwell upon such burning questions as “Is a Mauser 98 better than a pre-64?” and “Rigby double, or Westley Richards?”  Hmmm.

 

But, the other day, the question came up yet again when, talking about Africa, my interlocutor fixed me with that familiar anxious look and asked, “But what about snakes?”

 

Snakes?  What snakes?  We were talking about living in a tent versus a house with walls and a door, and how sleeping in the open, under the stars, is preferable even to a tent.  No snakes involved.

 

“I thought there were always snakes,” she said.  “How do you keep them out of the tents?”

 

That’s a hard question to answer because it presumes that snakes are always trying to get into tents, surrounding them in the night, slithering about, probing for openings.  Such is not, in my experience anyway, the case.

 

But it brought to mind a tale I read when I was a child, about an expedition somewhere in South America.  The members had been together a long time, were thoroughly sick of one another and barely speaking.  As a result, they neglected basic camp chores like clearing all the grass away around the campfire— a measure to deter rodents and, hence, snakes.  During the night, a snake came through the grass, slithered into a sleeping bag, and curled up on the stomach of the sleeping man.

 

To cut a rather frightening story short, he remained motionless and terrified throughout the night, and they were only able to persuade the snake to leave quietly the next day by taking away all shade and leaving man, sleeping bag, and serpent to slowly roast through the heat of the day.  Finally, hot and annoyed, the snake slithered out past his head—it was a bushmaster, and truly deadly—and was hacked to death with machetes.

 

That is one of the two childhood experiences to which I can trace my herpetophobia.  Reading that story, in the Reader’s Digest, when I was seven or eight, came after my first encounter with a snake wherein, around the age of five, I was walking down a trail and stepped on a garter snake under some leaves.  It writhed up around my ankle, I ran home screaming, and that was that:  Herpetophobe to this day.

 

Well, maybe not quite a ‘phobe’.  In the interests of journalistic accuracy, I looked up the definition and find that I’m on the cusp between actual phobia and mere fear and dislike.  I don’t like looking at photos of snakes, but I don’t break out in a cold sweat, have a panic attack, and refuse to leave the house for a week.

 

Given that attitude, though, you would think snakes would have been uppermost in my mind when I first thought of going to Africa, but they never were.  It may be because none of the African writers who dominated my teenage years—Robert Ruark especially, but also John Taylor and Stuart Cloete—dwelt on snakes at any length.  (It was years later that I read Cloete’s novel, Mamba.  Thank the Lord.)

 

Uganda is not what you would call a snake paradise, but it has enough of them.  Mambas, cobras, that kind of thing.  Pythons.  But it was three months after I first set foot on the tarmac at Entebbe Airport that I encountered my first snake, and that was in a guerrilla camp in the southern Sudan.  It was a green mamba, and it was dangling from a branch above a waterhole where we were having our first bath in a week.  It was, I suspect, just curious, because it turned and climbed back into the foliage, leaving us to lather and rinse.  The Anyanya with the Lee-Enfield just grinned and shrugged.

 

That was in 1971.  I didn’t encounter my next African snake until 1990, and that was after two more trips to Africa that had taken me to Kenya, Uganda again, South Africa, South-West Africa (now Namibia), and Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe).  In 1990, in Tanzania, we were driving along a mountain track on the edge of the Rift, came around a bend, and there was a python curled up in the rocks.  We stopped and looked.  It raised its head and gave us that cool python stare.  We stared back, then decided it was up to us to move along, so we did.  I can’t say I shrugged, but at least I didn’t leap in the back and cover my head with a blanket or reach for the .450.

 

I’ve written this before, but if you are snake-sensitive, it’s a good idea to find out how your professional hunter feels about reptiles before you sign the cheque.  Most are indifferent, feeling about snakes the way most of us feel about poison ivy—best avoided but not life-threatening.  Others, however, mercifully rare, actually like snakes—like them—and want to introduce the rest of us to the joy of communing with serpents.

 

One such is Chris Dandridge, son of Darryl Dandridge, who was a noted snake admirer.  One time, reportedly, Darryl bet that he could stay in a large cage full of venomous snakes, naked, for a week.  He did and survived.  Or so I’m told.  Chris grew up with snakes.  We were wending our way north into Kwando one time, looking for a campsite.  No tents, sleeping under the stars, but this was something I’d grown to enjoy, memories of the bushmaster and the sleeping bag notwithstanding.

 

There was a clearing with a big old tree at the edge, which had a cavernous hole near the base.

 

“Better not here,” Chris said.  “There’s a black mamba that lives in that tree.”

 

A PH who knows the home address of a mamba?  At least he didn’t suggest we stop in for tea.

 

For various reasons, mambas seem to grip the imagination of African visitors more than any other snake.  Undoubtedly, they are dangerous.  According to the charts, their venom is right up there, they have the longest fangs and can inject the most venom, they can climb trees like a monkey and are so fast they can overtake a running horse.  Or so I’ve read.  Other accounts dispute the speed, and some insist they are not as aggressive as their reputation would have us believe.

 

My feeling is that if they are only half as fast, half as deadly, and as laid back as a hippie on weed, I’d still rather avoid them.

 

I have one black mamba story that various witnesses swear is true.  In the early 90s, the editor of Outdoor Life, a noted herpetophobe, was on safari in the Okavango.  He woke up in the night to the sound of scurrying, but it stopped, and he thought nothing more of it.  They went out hunting the next morning and returned to camp around noon.  He went into his tent and out the back into the attached lavatory.  There, coming in through the shower’s drain, was a black mamba.

 

Our hero went screaming out the front, the mamba continued on into the shower—he had no choice— then turned and slithered out the way he’d come.  The PH gathered some folks and beat through the bush behind, flushed the mamba, and killed it.

 

They pieced it together afterwards and concluded the mamba had been in the tent the night before and caught the scurrying mouse, pursuing it under the bed, up onto the chair, and so on.  Our man packed his bag and was at the airport in Maun by nightfall.

 

That story went the rounds of hunting and shooting writers for years thereafter, and while we all laughed, we all secretly wondered what we would have done under the same circumstances.  I can guarantee you, for a few nights at least, I would not have slept well.

Luangwa ( Loo – ung, “as in hung” – gwa)

By Richard Lendrum

 

So, Zambia is the country of my birth and, having left at three years old to move to Bulawayo, Rhodesia (now Zimbabwe), meant I remembered nothing. The sum total of my experience with the land of my birth was a visit to Kubu Lodge just upstream from Vic Falls – perhaps 15 years ago – and swimming in the iconic Devil’s Pools literally a few meters from the edge where the water cascades into the Boiling Pot below. So, the opportunity to go with my great pal and longtime contributor to the AHG, Ken Bailey, for his dream buffalo hunt, was just what I needed. Not only because it is my annual forced ‘get out of Joburg trip’ with Ken, albeit that we usually wingshoot, it was a great excuse to just immerse myself in what Zambia had to offer.

 

I fell in love. It’s why I will never desert this continent. The ride out to this wilderness area east of the country, was an eye opener. At one extreme, narrow roads with loads of trucks ensure you value life. Then on the other, there is utter poverty with people doing what they can to survive; selling berries they collect in the wild, dried fish, handmade curios and fruit and vegetables in roadside stalls, and essential goods in markets where human life is at its most vibrant.

 

My pictures will have to do the talking.

 

The bird life was extraordinary. A cruise down the river – I am not sure how many tourists do this on the Luangwa, and dare I say, I think it has every possibility of rivaling the boat trips down the Zambezi from Chirundu to Mana Pools, which I have been privileged to do. We counted 40 species of birdlife in the morning as we meandered down, and a monkey I had never heard of – Molony’s White-collared Monkey.    

 

The sad reality of much of Africa, and Zambia is no different – is that strong western, northern, or in this case, eastern powers, either initiate or engage in a partnership that leaves the country being plundered. Indigenous trees are indiscriminately cut by Chinese loggers and by local inhabitants desperate for survival, producing and selling their own charcoal. Bags of once wonderful trees are reduced to 80 or 90 pounds of black blocks shoved into a heavy-duty bag – all for around $3. Cyclists / taxis with two and three of these sacks loaded on to their bikes head to wherever they can sell them on the roadside between the Luangwa and Lusaka, the capital. I didn’t see much of the capital, (thankfully, I believe!) but we stayed in a piece of paradise – Wild Dog Lodge – owned by a tour operator selling safaris across the sub-continent.  Trees, birds, and Zambian hospitality that was just so slow but impossible not to love.  Time means nothing. And perhaps that is one of the lessons there.

Village life for the majority of Zambia’s country folk is something that needs to be seen to believed. We drove around a village near where we stayed – it hadn’t changed probably in hundred or more years. No electricity, no running water, one well for the entire village. Just the Chief had iron sheets on the roof.  And the happiest kids everywhere. Acceptance that this is it…  well certainly while they are so young. Living with and having no option other than to deal with what challenges they face. The village our tracker came from, which was about a day’s road trip north, had lost four people this year so far, from elephant, croc and lion. Four humans, lost in just one village. There are no statistics countrywide to record this. No way right now, that this human tragedy is even recorded, let alone noted. I was stunned. This is Africa.

 

I managed to bring home a collection of fantastic rocks, driftwood from the banks of this mighty river, some seedpods – all to add to the safari sanctuary of Afton – although it was a little nerve-wracking having to explain to the Zambian authorities when their scanners picked up the round objects on the X-ray – but that is another story.

 

I met a South Africa couple who had been in Australia for 30 years, huge farmers in the west of Australia, and what were they doing? Wanting to invest in Zambia and start farming there! Sure, they had made money, it was most probably safer, but then what? Obviously, there was something calling them back.

 

I flew home, thinking. Thinking how I could, in my small way, somehow help this lush, fertile country, blessed with an abundance of so much – vegetation, space, wildlife, people.

 

It’s starting with sharing this short account … designing the new logo for the Zambian Professional Hunters Association – and there will be more in the times ahead. Of that you can be certain.  

 

Enjoy the pictures.  

One for the Road

Superb trackers and valued friends, from left:  Lekina Sandeti, Momella Torongoi, and Abedi Shimba.  Lekina and Momella are both Masai.  Abedi, who died a few years ago, was part-Bushman, and taught both Roger and Derek Hurt about tracking and bushcraft from an early age.

By Terry Wieland

 

Hurry, Hurry! Shoot! SHOOT!” 

 

(And other helpful comments) 

 

Towards the end of his career in Africa, Robert Ruark had one particular tracker named Metheke without whom, he wrote, “I feel naked in the bush.”  He does not make it clear exactly who Metheke worked for when Ruark was not around.  Presumably, it was one of the Ker & Downey professional hunters, but Metheke always seemed able to detach himself to accompany Ruark, no matter who he was hunting with at the time.  Or so Ruark would have us believe.  He was Man Friday to Ruark’s Robinson Crusoe.

 

Ruark was very adept at creating ideal situations that embed themselves in your mind, making you seek out such perfection on every hunting trip henceforth.  Alas, perfection in hunting — and especially in hunting companions — is a very scarce commodity.  On rare occasions I have met trackers in Africa who compare favorably with the sainted Metheke.  Lekina Sandeti, a Masai who works for Robin Hurt in Tanzania, is one.  Cuno, who worked for Chris Dandridge in Botswana, is another; I never did know Cuno’s surname.  Nor did I know Charles’s surname, who was Clive Eaton’s tracker and always dressed in a shirt and hat more in keeping with a beach in Hawaii than on the track of a Cape buffalo.  His attire belied his ability, however, which was second to none when it came to finding game and tracking it.

 

Books and stories from old Africa often depicted trackers and gun bearers in less than flattering terms.  Some were outright racist to a point which, in this day and age, causes even the most non-politically-correct to cringe.  Even those who purported to like and respect the safari staff were often condescending in their treatment of native people and their foibles.  Most wrote about their trackers the way a wingshooter writes about a particularly gifted bird dog.  Ruark, I hasten to add, did like and respect them.  At times he was critical, but never condescending.

 

I don’t claim to be any less inherently racist — or at least, race-conscious — than other men of my age and background, but I have always tried to write about Lekina, Cuno, Charles, and the others in the same terms I wrote about the white professionals who headed up safaris.  Perhaps this is because, 20 years before I ever went on safari in Africa, I went there as a freelance foreign correspondent and spent long periods living in grass huts, mud huts, and, on occasion, refugee and guerrilla camps.  (Grass huts, by the way, are the most comfortable, and you become fond of the lizards that scurry around.)

 

In the course of that and later such expeditions, I learned enough Swahili to get by, or at least enough to show the trackers I was making the attempt, and this always seemed to put them on my side.  Earning the respect of your trackers is, of course, the best case.  Failing that, not incurring their enmity is something to be desired.  One time, I was told about a client in Botswana, hunting with some Bushmen, who made the mistake of treating them badly, constantly denigrating them and generally being a boor.  It has been my experience that people respond in kind, and that a little politeness goes a long way.  At any rate, the Bushmen determined on some revenge.  Knowing they could go long periods without water, while the fat American needed a drink every fifteen minutes, they took him out one morning and did a long, looping circle under the hot sun, with no water.  Hours later, dehydrated, hallucinatory, and almost dead with fatigue, they delivered him back to camp.  I don’t know whether he changed his ways, but the guides certainly got a bit of their own back.

 

Sometimes it’s not a matter of respect, mutual or otherwise, but simply competence.  For every superb Lekina or Cuno, I have met trackers and other staff that seem to have been hired at short notice out of the local saloon, and have no more idea about hunting than if they’d been hired to teach quantum physics.  One time, I was trying to locate a wounded wildebeest in the thick bush of Natal.  With no tracks or blood trail, going back the next day to search for it was like looking for the proverbial needle, but we had to try.

 

We split up, with the PH and one tracker going one way, and a tracker and me going the other.  By some miracle, a lone wildebeest bull appeared on an open slope about 200 yards distant.  We had no shooting sticks, and no convenient tree.  I was studying the bull in my binoculars while the tracker gesticulated wildly, insisting it was the wounded animal.  My only chance was an offhand shot.

 

“Hurry!” he shouted.  “Shoot!  Shoot!”

 

Already out of breath, nervous, I tried to place the dancing crosshairs somewhere near the shoulder, and yanked the trigger with predictable results.  The bull melted into the undergrowth.  My guide looked at me, practically in tears.  “Why you not shoot?” he asked, obviously thinking that killing an animal with a rifle required nothing more than pointing it in more or less the right direction and pulling the trigger.  The wounded bull — if it was our bull — was gone, then and for all time.  I should add that it was a hell of a head.

 

Guides like that make you even more nervous and likely to miss.  Others, like Lekina, know that their own chances of survival go up considerably if they keep you calm in a tight situation, and try to make things easier rather than harder.  Shouting “Shoot, shoot!” when the client is either not ready, or not in a good position to do so, accomplishes all the wrong things.

 

I’ve heard of, although I’ve never experienced, the extreme case of a guide running on ahead to try to spot a wounded animal, and then turning around and shouting to the hunter to “Shoot!” when he can’t even see it from where he is.  And, naturally, the shout then spooks the beast to make tracks.

 

On my first safari in Botswana, my professional hunter was a Tswana by the name of Patrick Mmalane, a Sandhurst graduate and captain in the Botswana Defence Force.  He had signed on as a professional hunter with Safari South.  Naturally, he being black as the ace of spades, I insisted on referring to him as my “white hunter,” which caused great mirth among the trackers.  Since Patrick and I both held the Queen’s Commission, we declared our end of the dining table to be the officers’ mess.  We became quite good friends, and I went back the following year for a four-week odyssey wherein we drove around Botswana, wingshooting, seeing the sights, and setting a number of local beer-drinking records.

 

Patrick eventually left hunting and rejoined the BDF, and the last I heard he was a lieutenant-colonel.  I mention all this because it was interesting to see his relationship with our trackers.  They were Bushmen, in whole or in part, and as at home in the bush as Patrick and I were on a drill square.  While Patrick was good with a rifle, and held command in an easy grip, he was not a tracker, and game spotting was not his long suit.  The trackers treated him with the same somewhat bemused respect that an experienced sergeant-major accords to a newly appointed young officer.

 

In the end, we all proved ourselves to each other — and earned whatever respect we had — through our own abilities, and by the end of the week, one Cape buffalo bull and several lesser species later, we all got along with a kind of easy familiarity.  Everyone did his job, no one screwed up, and we had a pretty happy ship.

 

It would be nice to be able to say that eventually I ended up with one tracker who did for me what Metheke did for Ruark, but those were other days.  A tracker/gun bearer/factotum of the Metheke stamp is either a distant memory or, more likely, an ideal that never really existed — certainly not for visiting client-hunters like Ruark, or me.

 

One of my most treasured memories of hunting in Africa, however, is when, on my second safari with him, Lekina Sandeti invited me to be a guest in his hut, and to drink a cup of the buttermilk-like concoction that is a staple of Masai life.  This was, I was told by my PH, a great honor.  Whether Metheke ever did the same for Robert Ruark, I don’t know.  As I say, those were different times.


By submitting this form, you are consenting to receive marketing emails from: AHG. You can revoke your consent to receive emails at any time by using the SafeUnsubscribe® link, found at the bottom of every email. Emails are serviced by Constant Contact

This will close in 2 seconds

0
    0
    Your Cart
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop
    Privacy Overview

    This website uses cookies so that we can provide you with the best user experience possible. Cookie information is stored in your browser and performs functions such as recognising you when you return to our website and helping our team to understand which sections of the website you find most interesting and useful.