The Benefit of Doubt

By Mary Hayes

 

During my hunting experience in South Africa, I learned a very important lesson about taking pride in what you do and to never doubt yourself. I have carried this knowledge with me since the time I had this amazing opportunity.

 

Hoooonnnnnk… Shoooooo. Hooooooonk… Shoooooo.

 

“Dad can you please put your mouthpiece in.”

 

Shoooooooooo.

 

“Urgh!” I cried in frustration. All night I had been trying to get my dad to put in his mouthpiece that would keep him from snoring. It was about 1 a.m. and at that point I finally decided to give up. I desperately longed to see the back of my eyelids instead of the small, thatch-roofed room around me. My thoughts started to swarm around in my head like bees, stinging, rushing around frantically. Tomorrow I have to hunt. Tomorrow I either make the shot of a lifetime or fail. These thoughts continued to rush around my head, until one lone memory of the previous day crept in. It almost seemed to shut out all the others.

 

That afternoon on the hunt, my father had made a funny comment about how many times he’d missed that day: “I’ve never heard a gemsbok laugh before.” My father had shot at the animal many times, and he had missed every single time. It turned out to be just because the gun was two inches off. More thoughts till I finally fell asleep at 4 a.m.

 

Too soon I heard my father say, “Mary are you awake? Mary, there’s a whole bunch of impalas over in that field.

 

“Do you want to shoot one?” asked Pete, our hunting guide.

 

“Mmmmm… sure,” I replied.  As I picked up my heavy gun, all I could think about was how much I didn’t want to do this. I was tired, scared, and overall lacking in self-confidence. When I shot, it was not surprising to me that I missed.

 

“Why are you so tired?” my dad asked.

 

“What do you think?’ I retorted.

 

“I slept great!” my dad said with energy and enthusiasm.

 

“Exactly!” I replied.

We started walking towards a thick forest. All you could see was darkness as we trekked through the trees. The jeep started to fade away until it was just a tiny speck in the distance. Pete was guiding us through the thorns and thick, heavy brush.

 

“Did you see that?” he whispered.

 

“What?” we whispered back.

 

“There’s a buffalo right behind that tree.”

 

I stood very still and slowly turned my head toward the tree. There was an enormous Cape buffalo. “The only difference between this and buffalo hunting is that the animal we are looking for isn’t trying to kill us,” Pete whispered. The fear that had crept into my mind disappeared. We continued like that for a long while and eventually we weren’t looking for the impala anymore. We were looking for buffalo. It was exciting to see dark shapes moving around or a pile of fresh dung. We were in the buffalo territory! But we had to abandon the hunt because we were too far into the forest, so we headed back to the jeep.

 

We steadily bumped along the rough terrain, and the rocking motion almost lulled me to sleep. All I could do was replay the Cape buffalo or impala hunt in my mind over and over again, wanting to remember each tiny detail of it so that I would never forget any second of experience.

 

It was a different thrill from anything else. It was something that I felt belonged to us – me, my dad, my grandfather and Pete, something special, something that might not happen again. Suddenly, “Hey Mary,” I heard Pete’s voice over the loud rumbling of the jeep.

 

“Yes?”

 

“I see a blesbok in that field over there, do you want to shoot it?” I looked. Sure enough, there was a blesbok in the field. A pang of hesitation hit me. What if I miss? What if I injure the animal and it dies a slow painful death? What if… no.

 

No, I was not going to let the “what ifs” be my downfall. There are way too many of them in life and I realized I was never going to get anywhere if I let the “what ifs” drag me down.

 

“Yes,” I replied. I found a rest for my rifle, steadied myself and pulled the trigger. When I looked up, the blesbok had moved only ten feet away from his original spot and was now continuing to eat grass. I had missed! “What ifs” were swarming now, panic started to settle in and I was having trouble focusing.

 

“Do you want to go after it?” Pete asked. I looked over at my grandfather and dad, sure I was going to see scowls and looks of disappointment, but all I saw were reassuring smiles. I nodded. Pete carried the tripod sticks, and I carried my gun. We walked down the hill and set everything up.

 

“Now remember, keep yourself steady and make sure you’re confident before you shoot. Don’t doubt yourself,” Pete instructed. I nodded my head and swallowed. I lowered the gun to the sticks and put my eye up to the scope. For once, all my thoughts were positive, and even though only Pete was with me, I could feel everyone’s voices encouraging me, giving me new strength and energy. I zeroed in on the animal, took a deep breath and squeezed.

BAM! I lifted my head. Pete was smiling.

 

“What?” I asked

 

“You hit it!” Pete replied

 

My doubt quickly turned to excitement and elation. I was thrilled. “Seriously?” I screamed.

 

“Yep, straight through the lung,” Pete said. I did it! I actually did it!

 

Pete started walking towards the dead blesbok. Pops, my grandfather, appeared from behind the hill and put his arms up in a questioning gesture, and I thrust my arms up in confirmation. Then my father appeared and the next thing I knew we were all down in the valley celebrating. “Go find something to put in the blesbok’s month,” my dad said.

 

Everyone went over to examine the animal while I wandered around to find flowers. It was an old tradition that when an animal dies you need to put a bundle of grass or flowers in their mouth out of respect for their lives and to thank God for His creation.

As I trudged along the rocky landscape, I started to think about how I was going to tell everyone at school what I had done, thoughts ricocheting back and forth in my mind. I had hunted and killed an animal. Maybe their reactions would be something like: “Oh my gosh, wow!” Or “That’s amazing!” Then reality settled in. I realized what their real reactions might instead be: “Oh my gosh, you killed an animal! How could you?” Or “What? That’s horrible!”

 

My self-doubt kicked up. Why did I do it? What made me kill that animal? Did I come all the way to South Africa just to take a life? I spotted some beautiful purple flowers in the bare, dry landscape. Shooting the animal was only a small puzzle piece in this trip. In fact, it wasn’t even about the shot at all. The shot was the destination, the hunt was the journey. I pondered for a while until I heard the voices of the others.

 

“Mary! Where are you?”

 

I quickly pulled the flowers out of the ground and ran back to where the blesbok was and put the flowers into its mouth

and said a quick prayer. We took some pictures and loaded it up in the jeep.

 

After a wonderful a picnic lunch in a beautiful rocky outcrop we went back to the lodge. That night as we all sat around the fire, all the chatter was about the hunts of the afternoon and at that moment I felt unashamed and proud of my accomplishments.

 

I concluded that even when self-doubt, judgement and fear may conflict you, there are still some things that no one can take away from you. My hunting experience in South Africa was one of these things. It wasn’t about killing the animal; it was about being with the people I love and hunting.

 

My experience in South Africa, is something I will never forget. In a way, I am almost thankful now for the insecurities I had had about myself, because without them, I wouldn’t have been able to overcome those weak spots in my self-esteem. I learned the benefit of doubt.

Afton 20 years later

In August of 2002, I first visited  Afton Guesthouse in Johannesburg, SA. The place was recommended by a PH who is no longer in the industry. I was fortunate enough to stay several times during my six weeks and three-country hunt. I was able to harvest all of the Dangerous Seven.

 

Fast forward to April of 2022, some 20 years later. I was fortunate enough to stay again with my wife, daughter, son-in-law, and two clients. What a difference two decades has made.

 

Afton was, in 2002, a warm and welcoming place for someone who had never been on the African Continent before, or an old pro. It featured old, creaky wood floors and skeleton key access for each room. It offered a few curios here and there and had some recommendations for places near to safely have  dinner and cocktails.

 

Today’s Afton is a beautiful blend of those features, but brought into a more modern world. The rooms are really updated while keeping that warm and homey feel. The meals that are now available are nothing short of outstanding, and enjoying a beer or cocktail in the boma area with a fire pit and nearby swimming pool brings this place to a whole new level.

 

The trophy room allows guests to get a close-up look at a wide variety of Southern Africa’s diverse wildlife options, while the sitting room is both warm and comfortable. The entire place displays the incredible artwork of the local people, ranging from wonderfully detailed wood carvings to leather work, and even some beautiful hand-made knives with scrimshawed bone handles, all of which are available for purchase.

 

I truly enjoyed my stay 20 years ago but the new owner/management made my stay now just that much more enjoyable. The other options offered to travelers, even if they do not have the time to stay, are phenomenal. They organize an outstanding meet-and-greet service at the aircraft, which can be incredibly comforting, especially to the first-time Africa traveler. When it comes to assistance with bringing your firearm and getting the license, there simply are no words to describe how smooth they make it.

 

Just a few years ago I traveled with my wife, three daughters, and their husbands/fiancés, none of whom, other than me, had ever been to Africa before. We did not have time to stay in Johannesburg as we were catching a flight up to Victoria Falls before returning to SA for a 10-day hunt. The issue was we had extra luggage for the hunt and firearms, all of which were a problem going up to Zimbabwe. The Afton staff made arrangements for an aircraft meet, walked our group to customs, and met us again on the other side. They then took possession of our firearms and extra luggage and secured them until our return from Zimbabwe, where they again met us at the aircraft, through customs, and then assisted with getting the firearms and luggage checked for the trip down to Cape Town.

 

I cannot begin to find words that describe how fantastic Afton was 20 years ago and surely cannot put into words how it has grown into what I can only call the finest customer, hunter, and service organization in Southern Africa. I will, without question, continue to recommend Afton to all my customers or anyone needing to travel through Johannesburg, SA.

 

Afton is truly the place where “THE SAFARI BEGINS”.

Ron Hugo started A-Fox Hunting consultants. A small family-run booking agency. They book hunting and touring trips worldwide from all of North America to New Zealand and South America but they specialize in African adventures. Ron says, “No other agency will work as hard to get you exactly what you want at the best pricing.”

Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences Part 6

Written by Neil Harmse

 

Chapter 7. Lion Problems

 

As previously mentioned, during the 1980s the southern Kruger Park boundary was continuously faced with problems caused by lions crossing. into private properties and killing livestock. Once these nomadic lions realised how easy it was to catch and feed on domestic stock, they tended to remain in the area and habitually prey on the animals. Once hunted, they realised that they were safe on the park side and would come through after dark to raid the cattle kraals or kill the livestock in the camps.

 

Sometimes these young lions tended to show ‘bloodlust’ with such easy pickings and would kill four or five animals in one attack. I realised that the only way of making contact with these killers would be by setting up a hide and waiting for them to return to their kill to feed again. They were always more suspicious when approaching a kill of a domestic animal than one of natural prey, so the hides had to be carefully sited and disguised, and movement kept to a minimum. With care, I could sometimes shoot two or three in a night. If that sounds unsporting, I must stress that it was not sport hunting at all, but an attempt to rid the area of killers causing financial loss to the farmers and the community.

 

We did try to dart, capture and then relocate some lions further into the park, as far north as the Satara area, but this did not work. Within a week or two, these same lions returned and were again killing stock. They became wary and would not return to a kill, so they then had to be followed on foot from a kill – which could be quite ‘hairy’, especially in the dark. My tracker, Petrus, was very steady in this work and could be relied upon to keep a spotlight trained on the lion, allowing me to pick a shot. For this, I used a rechargeable battery with a spotlight and red filter. Following lion at night through the bush is pretty hair-raising work and shots were normally at close range.

Magagula (left) who assisted me with a lion hunt, with Petrus (right).

I remember one time when Petrus was down with malaria and I used a substitute tracker named Magagula. I had used him on hunts before with no problems, but this tracking in the dark was new to him. I carefully explained what to do and he seemed OK with it. We picked up a group of four young male lions moving back to the park at about 11pm and were following behind at about 15m when the light was switched on and trained on them. One of them stopped and turned to look back. I raised my rifle, ready to shoot – when Magagula’s nerves failed and he suddenly switched off the spotlight. I whispered to him to switch it on again, which he did,

but he simply flicked it on and off! Believe me, it is quite daunting standing in the bush in pitch blackness with lions a few metres ahead. Fortunately, the lions ran off and made their way back to the park. We never managed to catch up with them.

 

An amusing incident occurred with Magagula a few weeks later. I was driving along the road past the cattle kraals when I noticed something lying across the road. There was Magagula, drunk as a skunk, sprawled on the road with his bicycle beside him. I stopped and, in the headlights, picked up the spoor of three or four lions along the road and all around Magagula. They had obviously seen him lying there and, out of curiosity, sniffed and smelt all around him before moving off again. Fortunately, most lions are not man-eaters by nature and I think these ones were put off by the smell of beer! In his drunken state, Magagula was completely unaware of what had happened. I loaded him into the back of my Land Rover and dropped him off at the compound. The next morning, I collected him and took him to show him the tracks around where he had been lying. I must add, however, that even this did not cure his drinking.

 

Lioin raiders.

A raider lion taken out.

Most of the lions which caused problems were young males, although occasionally a mature lion or lioness was also a culprit. On two occasions, a large cow was killed and partially eaten. Waiting at the kill brought no results: the lion did not return. From the tracks, we saw that the killer was a large, mature male which had been hunted before and was wary of returning to his kill. The third attempt on a late afternoon was foiled by a tractor driver who arrived at the kraal just as the lion was trying to get into it. The lion ran off and they radioed me to advise what had happened. When I arrived, I saw from the tracks that it was the same lion that had previously made the kills. The tracks were fresh and reasonably clear, and seemed to be heading to the river boundary of the park. Petrus suggested that we cut across and try to get ahead before the lion reached the river. We could then perhaps get a shot. So we set off at a fast pace to make up time.

 

We arrived at the section of the river bank where Petrus thought the lion would cross, but no tracks were visible. We moved back into the tree line and sat down to wait. It was not too long before Petrus pointed and indicated that he could hear the lion. I trusted his instincts, as he was seldom wrong, so I moved to get ready if I had to shoot. Sure enough, we spotted the lion moving towards us, seemingly unaware of our presence. I took careful aim at his chest as he came forward and as my shot struck him, he seemed to leap up and flip over. I gave him a second shot and he fell flat. This cattle-raider had reached the end of his career. 

Leopard stock killer.

Not long after this, the raids seemed to become fewer, with the lions apparently behaving themselves and although there were sporadic kills in other areas, I was happy to have some respite from shooting more of them.

 

I would just mention that most of my lion control work was done with a .375 H&H and although it is not a favourite calibre of mine, I found it ideal for cats such as lion and leopard. It did prove effective in having a shock effect on them and knocking them down.

To order Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences – the complete book with illustrations, (US $15 excluding S&H) contact Andrew Meyer at andrewisikhova@icloud.com

The Night Of The Leopard

By Don Stoner

 

The Land Cruiser rolled to a stop on the rough, hard-packed ruts my PH called a road. Then, shifting into four-wheel drive, we slowly turned onto the soft white sand of the dry river bed. Five minutes later we caught the odor of the rotting bait wired to a branch overhanging the river. There were leopard tracks, and large ones at that, but the warthog bait had not been touched. The trackers began the unpleasant job of cutting the old bait down and replacing it with a fresh ham of zebra. 

 

As we left the river bed, jolting up a rocky track, we saw some bush cattle grazing through the thorn scrub. It was these cattle that had brought us to this isolated ranch deep in Africa. The ranch was owned and run by two elderly settlers in their seventies. In 1946 they had come out to this wilderness area, where they had wrestled a livelihood for fifty years. How they managed to eke a living from such a harsh land at their age was a wonder. Unfortunately, a large leopard had taken a liking to their scrawny cattle and in recent months had killed five of them.

 

This was a significant financial loss to such a small ranch. A leopard that has lost its fear of man and hunted where people worked, was bound to present a threat to humans sooner or later. As a result, the game conservation department had issued a permit to kill it, and the couple had asked for our help. I had not had plans to hunt leopard on this safari but it was hard to refuse such a request. This would be hard, potentially risky, and time-consuming work that the old gentleman couldn’t manage, but we just couldn’t refuse.

 

Over the next day we shot and placed three fresh baits in likely places. Each morning we carefully checked for any indication that the leopard had found one, but to no avail. We walked through swamps, along streambeds and through dense areas that looked like they might yield clues to the big cat’s location, but with no luck. Then, on the third morning, the old native caretaker came to tell us he had heard the cat calling as it followed a streambed during the night. He thought he knew exactly where it had been. We immediately set out to see if he was right and if we could find the spoor.

 

A small but deep stream cut through a very thickly wooded portion of the property and came from wild “protected” land into their small ranch. We had already picked this as a very likely route for the leopard to use if he came in looking for cattle. However, our bait, nicely situated on the south bank of the river, had been completely ignored. There was no easy way across the stream and, since it was inhabited by both croc and hippo, we were not inclined to wade. We thought that if the cat did walk the north bank he certainly would smell or see the bait and could, more easily than we, cross the river. I was to learn that hunting leopard, especially a cattle-killer, was not to be so easy. 

As we followed our guide, he led us right to this same stream. The big cat had apparently followed the north bank and completely ignored our inviting bait. After quite a search along the south bank we eventually found a small tree which had fallen across the river creating a shaky, slippery bridge. By reaching from limb to limb it was possible to balance on the thin trunk and shuffle across. There is nothing quite like the knowledge that the black water running under your feet is home to both crocs, and hippo. Our native tracker’s bare feet did well, but our boots gripped less surely. In addition, the branches were fairly small and, while they offered assistance balancing, were not strong enough to support our weight if we lost balance and fell. It was a shaky crossing but eventually we all, including my brave wife, made it, and on the far side we found the tracks. The leopard had coolly walked right past our bait to the backyard of the ranch house. 

We had some hard decisions to make. If we wanted this particular cat, it looked as if we would have to go onto his turf, as he wasn’t coming to ours.  Old cattle-killers are smart, well-educated. They have usually been hunted hard by ranchers and if they have survived long enough to get old, they have become very wise to the ways of man. This one was old, smart, and felt secure in the morass of vegetation on the far, inaccessible side of the river. If we were to hunt him, it would have to be in this thick riverine bush. Just to get bait across the river would be a daunting task. It would have to be carried across the tree bridge and then some distance though dense cover. And what about the proverbial “correct leopard tree”?

 

I knew that the selection of a tree in which to hang leopard bait was very important. It must have a large limb, accessible to the leopard but out of reach of lion and hyena. This limb should be in a position to allow a blind, or hide, to be built down wind and in a direction to have the setting sun behind the tree to silhouette the leopard as he comes to feed.  In this jungle we couldn’t even see fifty feet let alone find a tree with a limb that would have light behind it. We were, in fact, in a depression formed by the

Author Don Stoner.

banks of the river which, during the flood season, must get quite large. The thought of sitting in this mess to wait out a cattle-killer was less than inviting. Still, if we were going to get this one, it looked like this was what we would have to do.

 

Thoughts of Jim Corbett’s accounts of hunting man-eating leopard in India hung in the back of my mind like a dark apparition. But, if Keith, my PH, was gutsy enough to go for it, I certainly wasn’t going to back out. Finally, we picked a tree with a big branch about fifteen feet off the ground. A blind was then constructed out of branches and grass about fifty yards away. Then a tunnel had to be cut through the heavy foliage to enable us to see the bait. Thick bush surrounded the blind. The leopard would have no difficulty approaching unseen and unheard if he became suspicious of the disturbed vegetation.  This was not the way I had always heard you hunted leopard. This was his game in his ballpark and, somehow, I was beginning to feel more like the bait than the zebra quarter in the tree. Keith, however, had a reputation for success at hunting leopard, and he seemed confident.

 

I have grown up hunting in the swamps of Florida. I am used to hunting in vegetation so thick you have to push your way through, but somehow the realization that a cat big enough to kill a full-grown cow would be sharing the same tangle of vines and bushes in the black of night with nothing but branches to hide behind, is sobering. Visibility you ask? We could see perhaps three yards with a light, except for the tunnel we had cut to the bait. At this point I was beginning to question my professional hunter’s sanity, not to mention my own. Still, this was not sports hunting nor was it intended to be.  It was an attempt to kill a specific problem cat, and I had been “lucky” enough to have the opportunity to try. 

 

When all was ready, we left the dark gloom of the dense riverbed to wait in hope at this bait. The following morning was spent discussing leopard. We found an old book of leopard photographs in the camp and made a detailed examination of each picture to discuss exactly where to place a bullet for an instant kill. Keith patiently talked me through each instance. There must be no error if we were to try to take a cat in this situation. A wounded leopard in that tangle of jungle with no way to get out safely would truly be a disaster. I’m sure there could be potentially worse situations, but somehow none came to mind. 

 

I have read and been told that more hunters miss shots at leopard than any other dangerous game. This may be due to the relatively small size and quickness of the cat, or sometimes it is the poor light. But mostly, it is just nerves.  How can you miss a target at fifty yards from a rest? Either you can’t see it, or you rush the shot, or you are so nervous you jerk the trigger. This time we simply couldn’t afford a poor shot and risk a wounded leopard. Compounding the problem was that since this animal seemed to be very cautious, it suggested that it had been hunted before and, as a result, would probably take no chances. It was unlikely that it would come to the bait until it was quite dark. If true, we would probably have to use a flashlight to see well enough to shoot. I was told that I would have only a few seconds to get my shot off once the light came on. I was also told that once we were in the blind at four pm we would stay there until either full light in the morning or the leopard came. No leaving once it was dark, no matter how cold or uncomfortable. I also realized that the flashlights we were talking about were good old-fashioned Eveready – one with two cells and one with four. In this day of modern portable lights, we tend to forget just how faint a D cell flashlight with a bulb is at fifty yards. How I wished I had brought a really good light. 

Marvelous bulls, but too young to take.

The seriousness of the situation was reinforced when Keith gave me the game plan. Hydrate well in the morning but stop drinking by one pm. Nothing except the clothes I wore with no metal buttons or trim. No moving in the blind, not even to urinate. Even the ammunition was limited to reduce the risk of unwanted noise. One round in the chamber and four more in the magazine. There would be no spares in the pocket or belt loops to jingle or risk making noise. Back to the rifle range to recheck the scope and to zero it at exactly fifty yards, the distance from the blind to the bait. I began to feel the pressure. This must be both a quick and an absolutely correct shot. Keith would have a 12 ga shotgun with SSG buckshot and the two flashlights. That is all we would carry for the night. There would be two folding chairs and a wool blanket in the blind. Ever try sitting on a folding chair for twelve hours without getting up or moving? 

 

Well, dangerous game is why I came. This was no joke, no joyride, only deadly serious business. If I blew it, we would have real honest-to-goodness deep trouble. To make matters worse, not only would I create a problem for myself, but for my PH as well. More professionals are injured hunting leopard than any other of the Big Five dangerous game.  I appreciated the confidence Keith was willing to place in me.

I tried to get some sleep during the afternoon before we left the camp. In all probability I would have to be awake all night. The anticipation was too great and sleep wouldn’t come. Keith joked that he slept well in leopard blinds because he knew the client would be absolutely wide-awake listening to every sound. He was right. Somehow, I felt staying awake all night wouldn’t be too difficult.

 

Finally, we loaded our gear into the Toyota and drove to the river where the faint trail started, leading to the blind, about twenty minutes away. Our tracker went in with us to cover the entrance of the blind with branches after we were in it, and then he returned to move the vehicle away from the area. The two trackers would spend the night in the vehicle waiting until we called on the radio to return. A few last whispers were exchanged and we settled in for the wait. I noticed an uneasy feeling and a heightened awareness that I have felt before when in dangerous situations. The afternoon had been sunny, and since we were dressed warmly enough to stand the cold night, I felt damp with sweat from the exertion of walking to the blind. Nevertheless, it wasn’t long before the chill of evening began to seep through my clothes.

 

Closed in the blind, sitting in a semi-reclining position, there is nothing to watch but the sky. As the light faded I watched, through the branch of a huge tree overhead, the clouds as they drifted by. Then one by one the brilliant stars of the Southern Hemisphere began to come out. Africa is a fascinating land. In the stillness, the call of birds floated through the brush picking up tempo as the shadows lengthened. Leaves rustled and occasionally a twig cracked as unseen forms slipped by in the shadows and heavy foliage. Antelope, hyena, lion, the hippo whose tracks we had seen, or just a mongoose? It is amazing how much you can hear when everything is absolutely silent. My legs cramped, my back hurt and I would have loved to move. But movement is not an option as it would risk giving our presence away. It is just a case of mind over matter. Or, as a sergeant of mine used to put it, “I don’t mind and you don’t matter”. Years ago, while in the military serving as a sniper, I began to learn this art of sitting without movement and have refined it by many hours of practice sitting in deer and turkey blinds.

The river bed where we had to hunt this leopard.

As the sky turned to indigo, we heard a bushbuck bark three or four times. The cat was on the move. Birds called a warning and we strained to hear any sounds. Then we heard it. Four coughing grunts that could only mean leopard, and, nearby. As the curtain of darkness fell, black clouds passed overhead and the wind suddenly picked up. A storm was coming. We could hear the wind in the brush and the trees and branches began to sway. All I could think was the possibility that the wind would carry our scent to the cat and that we would be left sitting cold, wet and deaf through the night. Rain and wind cover all sounds. He could be within a few feet and we wouldn’t hear, see or smell him. The wind would even cover the sound of teeth tearing at the bait and 

the movement of the tree in the gusting wind would prevent us feeling the tug on the fishing line running from the bait to our hand. Things were not looking good. It’s Murphy ’s Law again. If anything can go wrong, it will. The wind continued, but at least no rain came. I felt frustrated and helpless. There was nothing to do but wait and hope. So near and yet so far.

 

As the night wore on and, just as I finally relaxed realizing there was nothing to do but wait it out, Keith touched my arm. He slowly moved his hand to mine so I could feel the line that was attached to the bait. Yes! It was moving. Was it just the wind? No, it also moved between gusts.

 

“Get ready. When I turn the light on, shoot.” It was a barely audible whisper. Ever so slowly I eased up into my rifle, trying not to disturb the sights carefully trained on the bait. How many times in the past have I trusted this rifle with its carefully handloaded bullets? The hours of practise will, hopefully, pay off. The light flashed on cutting through the blackness like a knife. My eyes strained to adjust to the sudden change. Yes, there was a huge leopard on the limb, but which way was it facing? All I could see were spots. Then, in a flash, I could make out eyes and a front shoulder. The crosshairs of the scope swerved to center on a rosette of spots just behind the shoulder and I touched the trigger. In the flash of the muzzle, I could see him leap.  I saw nothing else, blinded by the flash.  It had been all of five seconds, but it seemed like an eternity. Keith muttered, “I thought you would never shoot.”

 

Then the inevitable question. “How did it feel?  Did you hit him good?” Yes, I was sure of the shot, right behind the shoulder. We heard a single rustle of leaves, then a low gurgling growl and silence. Absolute silence.  We waited, all the while probing into each bush, tree and clump of grass with the dim lights. Nothing. We waited longer, both half afraid to find out the truth. Was he dead or would we find nothing but a blood trail?

 

Carefully we got out of the blind after inspecting every shrub in view. Keith took the lead with the shotgun and I followed walking backward, back-to-back, watching the rear. With one slow step at a time, it was the slowest and longest fifty yards I have ever walked. The relief was almost audible as the light fell on the beautiful spotted coat, stretched out in a bush right where it landed as it made its final leap. The open jaws displayed the long white teeth of one final snarl. So beautiful and so savage. I thought of William Blake’s poem:

 

Tyger tyger, burning bright,

In the forests of the night;

What immortal hand or eye,

Could frame thy fearful symmetry?

 

Then we noticed a surprise! This was not a large male as we had thought, but rather a very large female. My next thoughts were whether she could have a mate close by. After appropriate congratulations and a little backslapping, we hoisted her to start the trek out. Keith hefted her, with my help, onto his shoulders and we both staggered about forty yards before he let her slip to the ground. Keith is big and quite strong but this cat probably weighed close to 140 pounds, and carrying that weight in the dark through roots and mud was just more than even he could do. She was far too big and we simply couldn’t carry her through that dense vegetation in the dark.  We needed help. Keith then announced that I should stay to guard my trophy and keep the hyena off while he walked out to get help.  Ah, yes!  We did try the radio but had no signal. Suddenly the four rounds I had left in my rifle seemed very inadequate. Even in the States I would hardly drive to the corner store without more ammo than that. Was he kidding me? Stand in the middle of a jungle like that in the black of night with lion, leopard, hyena and hippo around with only four bullets? Ok! So I figured out the best approach. I dragged her up against the roots of a huge tree and then sat a bit elevated, with my back against it so I could keep a lookout with the flashlight.

Lion with gemsbok kill. She didn’t like us this close and it was almost a problem.

Then came the punch line! “Doc, those batteries are about done, so better keep the light off unless you really need it because we will need it to get out.” Right! I had a good mind to tell him I would walk out and he could stay. The only problem with that idea was that I wasn’t at all sure I could find my way out. To say I was a bit tense would be an understatement, but there was really no alternative. I admit to feeling a bit uneasy as I watched him disappear into the thick foliage. It would take him at least half an hour to reach the other side of the river where we knew we had radio contact. Another half-hour for the men to get to him and then another half-hour to get back to me. So, I’m going to have a very riveting hour and a half providing they don’t get lost, and that is a distinct possibility. I really don’t like having no light. And yes, I could hear something passing nearby several times. Once when the steps seemed to stop almost in front of me and only a short distance away, I did use the light. Whatever it was scurried away quickly. I’m sure some primitive instinct gnaws at you when you are alone in the dark in a jungle. 

 

After what seemed to be an eternity, I heard voices and saw a dim light approaching. We quickly yelled to each other. Keith was back with the two trackers who were far more sure-footed and used to carrying burdens than we were. Even with help, it was a struggle to get the big cat out. Footing in the dark was treacherous. The riverbed, covered with vines and roots, was wet and slippery. At the river there were new concerns. At first, they felt sure they could balance the cat on their backs and, helping each other, get over. I felt unsure. I certainly couldn’t have made it and I have done some technical rock climbing. After a discussion, I insisted we get a length of rope and tie it to the leopard just in case. To lose such a beautiful animal in the river would have been unthinkable. Halfway across it happened. The slippery trunk combined with the extra weight proved too much and, in a frantic couple of seconds, the cat went into the river with the tracker barely hanging on to a single branch. Keith’s hat, accidently knocked off in the commotion, fell into the water and was swept past my side of the tree. I instinctively reached to grab it, but recoiled as he yelled, “Let it go. Don’t put your hand in that water.” Potential danger is never very far away in this country. After pulling the leopard out of the water onto the far bank, we finally made it back to the truck. We were tired, sweaty even in the cold, but elated. 

 

The cold night air cut through our damp clothes as we rode in the open truck. We were anxious to get back to camp and wake everyone, but we felt we must first show the rancher the cat to be sure this was the right one. If so, their anxieties should be greatly relieved. As we pulled up to the house it seemed so isolated in the cold moonlight. I could imagine many of our pioneer homes were very much like this homestead. The native foreman quickly identified the leopard as the one they had seen. The rancher and his wife were delighted when we showed it to them. She seemed particularly relieved. I believe she had felt very uneasy with this killer so close to her house. What would have happened if she had stumbled on the bold cat in the barn or her back yard? Those of us who live in civilized places simply can’t understand the intimate threat of predators, but I think our forefathers would have.   

 

Jy moet eenvoudig inkom om fees te vier,” they said in Afrikaans, inviting us to come in and celebrate. It was like stepping back in time as I went through the door. It was an experience I won’t soon forget. The joy, relief and heartfelt thanks were almost overwhelming. We all sat at a handmade, wooden kitchen table in a kitchen lit by an oil lamp that looked like a movie set for a Western. Remember, no electricity in this simple house. “You must have a drink with us to celebrate.” The old gentleman took a bottle from a shelf along with four glasses. He carefully poured three glasses with what I would call two fingers of whatever it was and then poured me a full glass. Then with a great smile, he made a toast and we all clicked glasses. As we sat and talked, or rather as Keith talked, it was easy to understand the gist of the conversation even if I couldn’t understand the words. Occasionally Keith would speak in English to explain something to me. Soon all the glasses were empty except mine. Being a near teetotaler, all I could handle of the strong stuff was about two sips. After a half-hour of visiting and really enjoying their hospitality, Keith gently nudged me and said, “Come on finish up.”

 

“Keith, I can’t drink a whole glass (about 6 oz or slightly more)!” 

Don Stoner with warthog kill.

“Come on now, don’t embarrass me. They have shown you a great kindness and it would not be proper to leave it.” With that injunction, I managed to finish it all very quickly. Remember that I had not eaten or drunk anything over the last twelve hours. We then excused ourselves to return to camp as it was about 1:00 am. Before we were in the vehicle, I knew I was drunk because I felt unsteady. The drive back to camp over the next hour was a dizzying, swirling, nauseating run. In the open vehicle with no doors and no seat belts and nothing to hold on to across rough terrain, I repeatedly had moments of fearing I would lose balance and fall out. Thank God, the cold air and the hour or so drive helped sober me. By the time we returned and woke the entire camp, I was a little more steady and not quite as queasy. After the renewed celebration and pictures, I finally collapsed into bed and deep sleep, not waking until about 8:00 am. What a night it had been! One I will never forget, but also one I felt blessed to have experienced. 

 

Over the next several months Keith checked with the little ranch to be certain no more cattle had been taken. Thankfully, we had indeed killed the right leopard and all was well. I have to say that I experienced a certain sense of pride for having helped these two old homesteaders and their little community of workers. I also felt deep appreciation for tough old folk like them who, in this day and age, were still surviving by hard work and daily risk. It was probably at least twenty miles to the next neighbor through rough country with no paved roads and no electricity. They grew most of their own food and produced beef to sell. They also supported a little community of native help who seemed to be almost like family. Most striking of all, they seemed to be happy and content with so little. How sad that we, who have so much, find so little contentment. I think that way of life may offer more than all the conveniences and wealth we have. I am thankful I had a small opportunity to experience it and possibly provide some needed help.

 

Now, more than a quarter century after the episode above, recorded as accurately as possible, I can still relive the experience and feel both the great apprehension and elation. The sounds still rustle in my ears and the feeling and smells still come to life in my mind as if they have been indelibly imprinted. As I re-read Jim Corbett’s book about hunting killer-leopards, I can relate to some of his experiences. This is what hunting and life in the wild is about. It is living to the max, experiencing the full impact of your emotions, fears and triumphs.  It is about learning how others live or have lived. We have lost so very much in our “civilized world”. I may be among the last generations that will have the opportunity to experience these things, but I pray that will not be so.

 

I hope my children or grandchildren will not be deprived of similar experiences. 

 

On the Menu: Braaied Guineafowl Breasts Tandoori Style

Whilst tandoori ovens are in short supply, this spicy dish tastes excellent when braaied over hardwood coals. The longer the meat is left in the marinade, the greater the tenderising effect of the yogurt, and it can be overdone, with 4 hours being sufficient.

 

Ingredients

 

8 guineafowl breasts 

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1 teaspoon ground cumin

½ teaspoon ground turmeric

2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

1 tablespoon curry powder

2 tablespoons sweet paprika

1 cup plain yogurt

2 tablespoons lemon juice

4 minced garlic cloves

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 teaspoon salt

 

Method

 

Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat, then add the coriander, cumin, turmeric, cayenne, curry powder and paprika, stirring often, releasing the spices, until fragrant (approximately 2-3 minutes) and let it cool completely. Whisk the cooled spice-oil mixture into the yogurt, then mix in the lemon juice, garlic, salt and ginger.  Stir in the guineafowl, cover, and refrigerate for 2-4 hours.   Lightly oil the braai grid. Grill over a medium heat, and be carefull not to burn the meat, approximately 5 minutes on each side.

 

Serving Suggestions

 

Serve with a fresh salad, including cucumber, red onion, red wine vinegar, and olive oil.

Signed copies of Everyday Venison and South African Gamebird Recipes, by Leslie van der Merwe, are available from www.gamechef.co.za

Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences Part 5

Written by Neil Harmse

Chapter 6. Elephant Problems

 

During the early 1980s, I was kept rather busy with problem animals along the southern boundary of the Kruger National Park in the Malelane area. There was a serious drought in this region at the time and almost every animal seemed to find grazing, browsing or other food on the private farms and estates along the boundary of the park, where irrigation was implemented.

 

Lion were a particular problem during this period. The drought had caused a lot of fatalities among the game animals and left enough carcasses lying in the veld to provide ample meat for even the weaker young lions and cubs to survive and thrive. Normally, these would have succumbed to starvation.

 

As these lions matured, they were forced out of the prides by the dominant males and became nomadic, pushed from one area to another until they eventually migrated out of the park boundaries and found easy pickings among domestic animals such as cattle and goats in the border areas. Cattle losses were heavy, with half a dozen beasts sometimes killed in a single night. Understandably, the farmers were upset and I was constantly on call when lions raided their cattle.

 

Elephant, too, became a headache for farmers, as the agricultural estates offered a variety of food such as mangoes, litchis, citrus and sugar cane – all staunch favourites among elephant during this dry period. Every night these hungry giants would cross the boundary fence and enter the agricultural areas, causing extensive damage to the plantations and orchards. Mango and litchi trees, which take years to mature and produce their first crop, would be broken down and destroyed nightly.

 

Being highly intelligent animals, these elephants were exceedingly difficult to control. They knew they were trespassing and therefore only raided at night, returning at first light to the sanctuary offered by the park. There they would spend the daylight hours resting in the shade, dozing and digesting their food in safety, as they waited for nightfall and their next raiding session.

 

Trying to chase these raiders out of the plantations at night became quite a challenge. When they got in among the ripe mangoes, they were very reluctant to leave this delicious food source. I remember even resorting to the use of a shotgun loaded with number 8 or 9 shot in an attempt to teach them a lesson and persuade them that it was wiser to remain in the safety of the park – but to no avail. Quite often during these night raids, an elephant would be on one side of a large mango tree with me on the other side. As I moved around, so would the elephant and all I would be able to see were his legs moving around the base of the tree. In the dark, this ring-a-roses (or, rather, ‘ring-a-mangoes’!) was a very nerve -racking game.

 

One particular group of these raiders became quite bold and sometimes stayed until the early daylight hours, causing a great deal of damage – especially to the mature trees. These elephants also started to become aggressive and dangerous, chasing the staff who arrived early to begin picking or spraying. Consequently, it was decided that this group of animals would have to be permanently removed.

 

After much soul-searching, I obtained a permit to shoot this particular group before they injured or killed someone. I thought it would be an easy task, but that was not the case. It was a large estate and when the elephant raided a crop, I always seemed to be at the wrong place at the wrong time. It was almost as if they had ‘inside information’ about my whereabouts.

 

I tried to establish an intelligence network among the field workers and other staff to inform me of any sign of the raiders in the orchards, or of the boundary fence having been broken or crossed. After a frustrating few weeks, my luck changed and we located a group of three young bulls in an open area near the plantations, but unfortunately only about 300m from the Kruger Park boundary. This area had sparse vegetation with scattered acacia trees, gwarri and raisin bushes, as well as short grass.

 

We had to get closer without spooking the elephant into making a break for the park border. The wind was not in our favour, constantly shifting, and the trio were on the alert, ready to hurry back to their sanctuary. My companion was armed with a .375 H&H and I had my .404 Jeffery. We slowly circled, trying to get the wind in our favour. Attempting to stalk them in this open terrain, with sparse bush and shrubs and just a few acacia trees to give cover, was difficult. The elephants were bunched close together and showing signs of nervousness, their trunks raised and feet shuffling. I was worried that they would either rush for the boundary – in which case the opportunity for a shot would be lost – or they would spot us and charge. We made an awfully slow approach, stalking carefully from shrub to shrub and tree to tree, until we were about 25m away from them. I wanted to drop the first one dead in his tracks in order to leave us free to deal with the other two before they made a dash for the park fence. My plan was to try to get about 10m closer, which would put me in position for a brain shot, but suddenly a shot rang out from behind and to my left. That gave me a shock and I saw a puff of dust fly from the one bull’s head – too high to hit the brain. The bull immediately swung towards us, shaking his head from side to side, making it difficult to get a brain shot, especially from this range. Alerted now, the other two bulls broke away and ran towards the park boundary. I fired at the wounded bull and he seemed to rock backwards, but did not go down. Another shot from the .375 had no apparent effect and he started to follow the others. I decided to anchor him and fired for the point of his shoulder as he swung around. This stopped him, affording me an opportunity for a side brain shot – which instantly ended matters. He collapsed on his left side and never moved. The other two bulls disappeared into the park. Fortunately, they had either learnt their lesson or had opted for raiding other pastures further afield, because we had no further trouble from them.

 

Then the lions started up again!

A mango tree destroyed by elephants.

A farm gate destroyed by elephants.

Destruction of land and trees by elephants.

An elephant raider shot.

To order Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences – the complete book with illustrations, (US $15 excluding S&H) contact Andrew Meyer at andrewisikhova@icloud.com


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