Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences Part 9

Written by Neil Harmse

 

Chapter 10. Bad Luck Safari

 

 

There are times when, no matter how carefully things are planned, nothing seems to work out as one hoped. I remember one safari to Botswana years ago which seemed to go wrong from the very beginning.

 

I was contracted to do a photographic safari with a client who was the principal of the College of Photography in Johannesburg. He wanted to experience and compile a photographic journey through a varied wilderness region, desert, swamp and bushveld. I felt that Botswana would offer exactly the trip he was seeking.

 

In those years, there was not as much choice of four-wheel-drive vehicles in South Africa as there is today. Toyota Land Cruiser and Land Rover were about all. Just before commencing this trip, the Jeep agency brought out the model CJ-6 long wheelbase and, as my old Land Rover had seen a lot of wear and tear, I decided that this Jeep seemed a good proposition for the safari and decided to purchase one. I had it fitted out with a bush bar, roof rack, jerry-can brackets and high-lift jack and felt this vehicle from the USA was just the right thing for our pending adventure.

 

Stephen and I left Johannesburg early in the morning with the aim of travelling across the Botswana border at Martin’s Drift and carrying on to Francistown, where we planned to overnight. This stage of our journey was quite uneventful and I must admit that the Jeep seats were a lot more comfortable than the old Landy. Instead of finding accommodation in the town, we travelled a few kilometres out of it and set up a fly camp on the road to Nata in order to get an early start the following day. Little did we know what was in store for us.

 

After early-morning coffee and rusks, we packed up camp and set off for Nata, one of the few places where we could refuel en route to Maun. Our plan was to refuel and have ‘brunch’, then travel south-west along one of the tracks leading to the Makgadikgadi Salt Pans. This system consists of several desolate pans, collectively covering about 16 058km² of nothing but white salt-covered expanse, an extremely inhospitable area with virtually no wildlife or plant life. Stephen was very keen to experience and photograph this region.

After a few hours’ grinding along in fourwheel- drive, we made our way to Sua Pan, one of the largest of the salt pan systems, where I stopped to allow Stephen to walk along the crust-covered surface taking photographs of some of the few varieties of algae which occurred in spots. It was impressive to just stand and stare across the vast expanse of white salt surface stretching to the horizon.

 

After about two hours, I suggested to Stephen that we get going if we still wanted to reach Maun by late afternoon. After he had stored all his photographic paraphernalia safely in his boxes, we were ready to set off. I turned the key – and NOTHING! The engine did not turn over. I tried several times, with the same result. The Jeep was dead. I checked everything, but could not get it to start. The battery was stone-dead. We were now in a very tight spot. We tried to push-start the vehicle, but because of the thick salt crust surface, there was no way of moving the Jeep. In desperation, I used the high-lift jack to raise the rear wheels, wound a rope around the tyres and, with the vehicle’s gears in second, tried hauling on the rope to spin the wheels in order to start the vehicle. We simply did not have the strength to get a kick out of the engine. It was now growing late in the day and I suggested that we get some food going and try to take stock of our situation.

 

After a meal of mostly tinned foods, I suggested that I take a knapsack with some food and two water bottles and make my way northwards, towards the main Nata road, to find help. I planned to leave early the next morning, while it was still cool. Stephen would stay with the vehicle and supplies to wait for my return. I warned him that it could be two days before I got back.

 

Following a fitful night’s sleep, and after taking some careful compass bearings, I was ready to leave the next morning. About roughly 3km along our backtrack, I heard a droning sound which I thought could be an aircraft or vehicle. As the sound got nearer, I realised it was a vehicle. After a while, I saw a Land Rover heading towards me. I have never felt so relieved in my life. It turned out to be one of the Botswana Department of Wildlife & Fisheries rangers who had seen our tracks from the previous day and decided to follow them to investigate. I could have hugged him! Before long, and with a pull-start from his Landy, the Jeep was mobile again. He offered to follow us to the main Nata-Maun road and then he would have to turn off on the Pandamatenga road. We would keep going non-stop to Maun, where we could hopefully get a new battery.

 

Maun in those days consisted of Riley’s Hotel, Riley’s Garage, Riley’s General Dealer and a few trading stores. The mechanic checked the battery, only to find a dead cell, but he had no suitable battery in stock. He managed to contact a supplier in Francistown who had a truck coming through the following day and would bring a battery for us.

 

We managed to book in at the hotel for a comfortable and congenial evening. After an excellent meal, we spent an interesting evening in the bar chatting to some of the guides and professional hunters. They included the famous Harry Selby, Lionel Palmer and Darryl Dandridge, who were killing time in the off-season. It was a great privilege to spend time with these guys and hear their hunting stories and experiences. I must say that Stephen took all this in his stride and accepted it as part of his ‘African adventure’.

 

The truck with the new battery arrived at about 10.30am and an hour later, we were ready to begin the next leg of our safari. We had arranged to hire two camp helpers and guides to accompany us to the Okavango. We had planned to travel along the road following the Thamalakane River, turning off along a track following the Santantadibe River, skirting Chief’s Island on the west, and making our way north to Seronga, then westwards to Tsodilo Hills in the far north, famous for its Bushman rock art.

 

The thick sand of the track along the Thamalakane made for terribly slow travelling and by late afternoon, after turning off on the Santantadibe track, we decided to set up a fly camp to call it a day. We soon had a fire going with some of our fresh meat on the coals and relaxed with cold beers from the cooler box. The meat done, we placed it in a dish and were busy preparing a salad when a hyena rushed in, grabbed the dish and made off, leaving us staring and cursing. Our stock of precious fresh meat had just been drastically reduced. Our first supper turned into tinned sausages and beans, but at least we still had salad. We would have to take more care in future. Hyenas proved a damn nuisance, as they tried to get at meat and supplies in our Coleman cooler boxes and chewed one corner almost off. A few uneventful days took us into the swamps, where Stephen managed to get some good photos of game in the area, including elephant, buffalo, lion and the usual selection of antelope species. Unfortunately, trying to get shots of hippo and crocodile proved a challenge, as these would never quite come out of the water and just photographing their heads in the water made for rather indifferent images.

 

There was a pool with some hippo and a few fairly large crocs, and earlier we had come across a camp of local citizen hunters. They had shot a buffalo and I had the idea of drawing a croc out by baiting it with a buffalo lung. After a bit of haggling, we traded for a lung, which we hauled near the water. I hacked off a few pieces and threw them into the water to attract the creatures. Then, with the help of our guides, we started to drag the lung to the water’s edge. I motioned to Stephen to keep his camera ready. He was walking along with us as we dragged the lung when a croc of about 5m suddenly came charging out the water at great speed, heading directly towards us. I had never realised just how fast these creatures could move on land. The guides dropped the lung and fled. With a lunge, the croc grabbed the lung and, in a flash, was back in the water, lung and all. I looked around for Stephen, but he had taken off with the guides and did not even think of using his camera. He did manage to get a few photos of the frenetic activities as the crocs twisted and tore at the lung in the water.

 

To make up, a while later Stephen managed to take some great shots of a pride of lions which were fairly close and some cubs engaged in playful antics with the adults.

 

Our next misfortune came the following day, and the blame was mostly mine. While crossing one of the smaller swampy streams, water splashed up into the engine compartment of the Jeep, which brought us spluttering to a stop about midstream. The water was only about knee- or thigh-high and we climbed out to dry the spark plugs and distributor. I opened the distributor taking out the rotor and then dried and sprayed Q-20 into the unit.

 

After this, I replaced the cap and dried and sprayed the spark plugs. I then tried to start the engine. It simply cranked, but would not start. I told the guys to push it across to dry ground, where I would check it. After moving it about 15m, a thought occurred to me. Had I replaced the rotor? Jumping out, I found the rotor was not there. I remembered placing it on the edge of the mudguard panel, but it was now missing. It was somewhere in the water. I realised that I did not have a spare rotor – after all, who brings along a spare rotor!? Moreover, it was about four days’ walk back to Maun. Our tracks could be seen where the Jeep had moved through the water. I had everyone on hands and knees, chins above the water, groping on the bottom along the tracks, trying to feel the missing rotor. After about an hour’s search, finding bits of wood and stones, as well as the odd piece of bone, one of the guys finally found the rotor. I was so relieved that I could have kissed him! I now always carry a spare rotor as part of my spares kit.

 

The next few days were quite uneventful and a good variety of game animals kept Stephen busy with camera, lenses and filters. He was enjoying the trip immensely and just as I was hoping we had used up all the bad luck in the barrel, the Jeep suddenly lost all its brakes. When I pushed the brake pedal, it simply sank to the floor with no pressure. On crawling underneath the vehicle, I found the problem: a metal brake pipe had been rubbing on the side of the chassis and had worn through, leaking brake fluid out and resulting in a loss of pressure. I turned a small self-tapping screw with adhesive sealer into the broken pipe and managed to bleed the brakes with four bottles of brake fluid I had in my spares. Then we were off again, with brakes on only three wheels.

 

After this, our luck finally seemed to change and we managed to complete the rest of our journey northwards with no further mishaps. However, while heading back to Maun through some longish grass, we suddenly crashed to a grinding halt. The Jeep had hit a hidden tree stump, badly buckling one of the tie-rods, so we now had no steering. After a lot of head-scratching and throwing ideas back and forth, one of our guides remembered experiencing a similar problem and suggested cutting a straight mopane branch and binding it in place. We removed the buckled tie-rod and managed to use binding wire to fix a reasonably straight mopane branch on the steering system. This did not give us much of a turning circle, but at least we made the last part of the journey, very carefully, to Maun, where we could have the vehicle repaired. We then drove the long road back to Johannesburg, still with brakes on only three wheels.

 

Thus ended a rather disastrous safari, although Stephen enjoyed his African adventure and said it was a trip he would always remember.

Above: Discussing routes with a game warden.

Left: Stephen viewing the vast salt pans of Makgadikgadi.

To order Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences – the complete book with illustrations (US $15 excluding S&H), contact Andrew Meyer at andrewisikhova@icloud.com

Classic and Contemporary African Hunting Literature

Land of the Black Buffalo

Paul Smiles (Faber and Faber Limited, 1961, 184 pages.)

Reviewed by Ken Bailey

 

On a comparative basis, there is very little in the way of classic hunting literature focussed on what is today’s Botswana; professional hunting wasn’t prevalent there through the golden years of East African hunting. Paul Smiles’ autobiographical Land of the Black Buffalo is one of the few available books dedicated to this wonderful game land.

 

In 1948, after serving in WWII, Smiles took on the job of game ranger in northeastern Bechuanaland, in what became Botswana following its independence in the mid-1960s. He lived in a camp called Chuchubegho, which was little more than a small two-room house and a couple of outbuildings in a grove of trees, from where he and his small staff had responsibility for a vast and remote region. His job was twofold – to rid the area of tsetse flies and, concurrently, of buffalo. Tsetse’s and the sleeping sickness (Trypanosomiasis) they carried were a threat to the emerging cattle industry, and buffalo were prime hosts of the disease. Land of the Black Buffalo details Smiles’ time battling these two disparate animals in a linear area created by the establishment of two miles-long fences that separated the “settled” area from the game area.

 

As one might expect, the book describes his many harrowing encounters with buffalo in the thorn veldt, but he gives equal billing to his efforts to eradicate the tsetse, and the reader is sure to learn plenty about the ecology of tsetse flies and their impacts on game, cattle and people. Did you know, as an example, that tsetse flies don’t lay eggs? Instead, as Smiles describes, they extrude nine or 10 grubs, or larva, that they hide in rock piles and under logs. There the larva pupate before eventually emerging as adults, winged marauders that live on blood and potentially transmit a disease that can be fatal to people and livestock, but to which game is immune. And they aren’t born carrying the parasite that causes sleeping sickness, but pick it up when feeding on the blood of animals carrying it. It was for that reason that his orders were also to wipe out any buffalo between the fences.

 

In Land of the Black Buffalo, Smiles also describes his encounters with elephants and giraffe that were notorious for destroying the fences, along with his many confrontations with lions, one of which had severely mauled his predecessor.

 

What’s particularly enjoyable about Smiles’ book is how well it’s written. He was clearly well-educated and crafts a sentence well. His writing is descriptive but down-to-earth, not the stuffy writing you find from many Englishmen of his era; it’s an easy and enjoyable read that should be in everybody’s library of African hunting literature.

Young and Dumb, but Alive!

By Ryan Phelan of Hotfire Safaris

In the early 2000s, I was running a private game reserve in the Tuli Block in Botswana. We had one particular elephant bull that was becoming a nuisance, as he was destroying our solar pumps and panels and threatening my fencing staff.

 

I brought this to the attention of the Botswana Game Department, and they proceeded to show me the ordinance that said I could go ahead and destroy the animal and notify them of the GPS location and mark the left and right tusks.

 

Being still fairly young, cocky and relatively inexperienced, I loaded up my 9.3×62 with four 286gr Barnes Super Solids and hopped on my motorbike to find a culprit elephant.

 

Once I reached the area that the fencing guys were working in, it did not take long to locate the offending bull. I parked the bike, loaded a round, and adjusted my scope power to minimum, this being 4x magnification. I started slowly after the bull, which was walking slowly into the wind in the scrub mopane.

 

I sensed the bull knew of my presence, but he was not too perturbed. Each time he walked I would run closer, and when he stopped to listen, I would stop. This continued for a while, until I thought I was close enough. I then remembered my PH mentor saying to me, “When you think you are at the right distance, get closer.” So I did. At approximately 18m, I rested on a scrub mopane and took aim on the bull that had stopped to listen.

 

He turned broad-side, and I just remembered my teachings: “Aim for the top of the back of the zygomatic arch.” I squeezed off. In a flash the bull turned 180 degrees, and I fired the second round in the same place on the other side of the head. He spun right around once more. I let fly the third round, upon which his back legs gave way, and I put the fourth round into the back of his head as it flung up into the sky. I was later to discover that this fourth round exited the front of his head.

 

I was left standing and shaking, with an empty rifle and many thoughts running through my head. I put a few more rounds into the rifle, cocked it and slowly headed up to the bull. He was dead!

 

At the end of the conflict, my emotions hit home, very hard. I had read all the books on the early ivory hunters, and all I wanted to do was hunt my own elephant. I had done it. But the feeling was not what I thought it would be. Here I was, a mere 24-year-old, and this bull a good 40 years old or more. I walked away quietly and sat down under a mopane tree to gather my thoughts and to thank the bull for giving me this opportunity that many people nowadays will not get. It was a very somber moment.

 

Thinking about the lessons learnt from this, I was fairly inexperienced and had gone out on my own. Secondly, using a scoped rifle at 18m is not ideal, especially when trying to put second, third and fourth shots in when there is just grey matter in your scope picture. What I did learn was that if you are to miss the brain, miss on the low side, as it clearly interrupts the blood flow to the brain and disorients the animal. This was what saved me.

 

However, the penetration of all the rounds was faultless, as was evident by the last shot entering the back of the head and exiting the forehead.

 

This area in Botswana had high numbers of elephants and they were, in a way, boxed in between the backline fence, which was the western edge of the Tuli block, and the South African game farms all bordering it across the Limpopo River. It was inevitable that human animal conflict would arise, and nothing was being done about the rising numbers. The reason cited for this was that funding for the game department was coming in in part from NGOs that were anti hunting or anti culling. They thus felt stuck between a hard place and a rock. Knowing numbers needed to be brought down but not being able to do it themselves. They thus were quite happy for any landowners etc in the area to deal with the problems themselves as it absolved them from being in hot water.

 

Springbok Slam on a Short Timeline

By Michael W. Mills, Maricopa, AZ, USA

 

Africa is a place that grows on you. The more I experience Africa, the more I want to return. Planning for my Africa 2022 trip started before I completed a hunt in 2021.

 

Fast forward a year, I’m in South Africa with my wife, Greeta, and long-time hunting partner, Bruce. After a few days in the Limpopo Province, attempting to add to my Tiny 10 goal by hunting klipspringer and duiker, then seeing the biggest kudu I’ve ever seen in the wild, a 59” brute, my attention turned to the Karoo and the main focus of the safari—springbok.

 

Concluding the Limpopo portion of our hunt, we left very early in the morning on the fourth day of a seven-day hunt, for the 12-hour overland trip south, in order to arrive as early in the afternoon as possible to get in some hunting time before dark. Two of those seven days were travel days – so hunting time was precious.

White Springbok

About The Karoo

The Great Karoo is a plateau region extending across a vast area and several provinces. It consists of open rolling grasslands interspersed with volcanic hills and the occasional tree; it’s quite different from the Limpopo bushveld. The Karoo is comparable to the landscapes of northeastern New Mexico, where I’ve hunted pronghorn antelope. While the landscapes may look similar, the similarity ends there, as the Karoo offers a far greater amount and variety of wildlife, and is the native range of springbok.

 

Operating in the Northern Cape Province, Julian (Jules) Theron, known as, “Jules of the Karoo,” owns the Plaatfontein farm, located near the town of De Aar. Jules has spent decades nurturing springbok development, and it shows. Jules’s relatives first came to this area in the 1840s. Now, five and six generations later, he and his son Izak continue the family’s commitment to the Karoo and springbok. There are an estimated 30,000 Springbok on Plaatfontein’s roughly 300,000 acres, making for good opportunity to see springbok without having to spend days locating animals.

 

The Springbok Hunt

The objective in the Karoo for both Bruce and me was to obtain Springbok Grand Slams. I trusted Numzaan Safaris and Jules of the Karoo would help make my dream a reality. That trust proved to be well placed.

 

A Springbok Grand Slam (“slam” hereafter) consists of the four colors variations of this species, the common, copper, white, and the smallest and more rare, black springbok. There are herds of common springbok only, but often we encountered mixed herds, some with all four colors.

 

A big plus for the hunt was our local tracker’s incredible eyesight accompanied by very good optics. In reality, he should be called an expert spotter, rather than a tracker.

Above: Copper Springbok

Right: Common Springbok

With minimal cover, our stalks had to be well-planned. We found the springbok’s comfort zone was generally 250 to 300 yards.

 

We had less than three days to hunt. It’s recommended that five to seven days be allocated for the pursuit of a quality springbok slam, but we just didn’t have that luxury. One could complete a slam in a day, and some people have done so, but to secure large-horned trophies typically requires more time.

 

Hunting that first afternoon proved rewarding, relieving some pressure on this condensed hunt. Bruce connected with two springbok before dark, taking a nice common ram and adding a larger-than-normal white ram.

 

Simultaneously, after finding a small herd with a good common ram, Arnold Cloete, my PH, and I stalked slowly using a lone tree as cover. We got within 300 yards, but needed to get to a better shooting location. Leaving our tracker at the tree, we walked together in the open.

 

“Bend 90 degrees at your hips and grab my belt to stay immediately behind me,” he requested. “We’ll appear as a four-legged animal.” He held his shooting sticks high as we walked to simulate gemsbok horns. 

 

We made our way to a rock outcropping without disturbing the grazing herd, putting us in position to connect with the common springbok ram. I assumed the ram we were seeing was a representative animal for the species. That assumption was later corrected when Arnold put a tape to his horns; they measured just under 17 inches in length.

 

Common springbok are the most frequently seen and were the originating sub-species for the other springbok types. They also have the largest body and horn size.  Trophy pricing for the common springbok is generally in graduated cost as the horn length exceeds 14 inches. Rams larger than 17 inches are rare.  At the Theron Lodge we did see horns that measured close to 20 inches— those are exceptional horns!

 

The next morning Bruce completed his slam, having obtained a very nice assemblage of rams. Arnold wanted to begin the day looking for a respectable black ram, knowing that it might take time to locate, but we quickly shifted our attention to a white ram the tracker spotted in a distant pasture.  After shooting high, the ram moved off, requiring a short pursuit in the truck.  A follow-up shot and we had our second ram.

 

Shortly thereafter, good fortune was with us, and we found a large black ram. A quick stalk, and two rams were headed to the skinning shed. With these successes, the pressure was easing for getting my slam.

Black Wildebeest

Black Wildebeest – Greeta and Arnold

We started the day intending to hunt springbok all day, but our plans changed at lunch as management wanted us to turn our attention to pursuing black wildebeest, given the coordination of hunters. That gave me a chance to relax a little, as it was now my wife’s turn to be the hunter.

 

Greeta was hunting for the first time in Africa and was seeking a black wildebeest to continue moving our trophy collection towards the “Beest” Grand Slam completion. She had already taken her first Africa animal in Limpopo, a common blesbok.

 

After arriving to an area where black wildebeest have existed in their natural range for millennia, we glassed several lone bulls, and a short stalk ensued. While Greeta lined up vertically on the front leg, as instructed by Arnold, her shot was low and carved a light groove in his leg. What are the chances of a grazing shot that does not draw blood and only shaves off the hair? The way the animal reacted, Arnold thought it had been hit. But subsequent groundwork and glassing of the bull did not reveal any blood.  It was only later we would discover the groove in the hair.

 

Now spooked, those bulls joined a small herd of cows, circled around a small mountain, and headed over a shallow pass. Greeta and Arnold attempted a second stalk, but with disturbed animals, they couldn’t close the gap to a reasonable shooting distance before dark set in.

 

The focus of the morning on the final day of our hunt in the Karoo was to find a copper springbok. Arnold’s plan included a lunch away from the lodge to allow maximum time to get a copper and then get back on wildebeest.

 

Mornings are cool to cold on the Karoo in July; it’s the southern hemisphere’s winter. This particular dawn we had frost on windshields, and fog. In fact, the fog was so thick we had to delay getting into the field over an hour past the normal starting time.

 

Once afield, with the fog gradually burning off, we spotted several copper springbok in a mixed herd. We were facing into the sun and maneuvered to approach them from the east. As we moved into position they were gone. Springbok can run very fast, and this group, possibly spooked by our movement or a wind shift, had vanished.

White Springbok

Black Springbok

A little later a reasonable copper ram moved to within shooting distance. With the foggy overcast and the soft light, I questioned if it was a copper or a common. I was firmly told, “Remember Rule #1 and shoot.” My slam was completed.

 

Rule #1—trust & obey the PH—had come up at the beginning of the hunt, in Limpopo. After Greeta and I tuned in our rifles, Arnold sighted-in his .223, in addition to his heavy backup gun. I found that odd. He told me the first day in the field that my rifle was too much for the pygmy antelope, but perfect for springbok shot at longer distances. I had taken a RW record steenbok the prior year with that same rifle at short range and dismissed his comment.

 

He must have talked with Johan, the camp manager, as the correct calibers for various game was the topic of discussion at supper that night. Johan convinced me that hunting klipspringer and duiker with a smaller caliber was the correct thing to do. Now I understood why the .223 had come along on the hunt. Arnold was thinking ahead, knowing what caliber I was bringing to this safari. After making the decision to use his .223 for pygmy antelope, he reminded me of Rule #1. While it carried a serious tone, it became a running joke between us the subsequent few times I questioned what was going on.

 

Having completed my springbok slam, the day’s hunt plan was holding. We dropped the ram for skinning, then headed southwest for black wildebeest. We anticipated correctly that the herd would remain in the hilly area where we’d left them the evening before. True to form, our tracker sighted a herd first, several miles away. The herd included the bull Greeta had shot at the previous afternoon. The tracker, Arnold and Greeta set off on what would turn out to be a very careful two-hour stalk. With a little tree cover, they slowly worked their way along a depression that closed roughly a third of the gap to the herd, moved to a hill and then carefully moved again, further east to another smaller hill.

 

The herd had shifted during the stalk to the side of small mountain, unaware of the approaching hunters. The three stalkers remained out of sight and closely watched the wind, which remained favorable the entire stalk; they gradually closed to within 150 yards.

 

Arnold positioned her on a perfectly placed flat rock on that small hill, giving her a solid shooting platform. After the shot, Arnold summoned us on the radio with the good news and a request to bring the truck as close as possible in that rocky terrain. His plan had been executed perfectly and we completed our Karoo hunt with four hours to spare. What a relief!

 

Summary

 

Three of the four rams have larger-than-average to exceptional horn lengths and could score SCI Gold. My slam was completed in under two full hunting days. This is not the norm, and serves as a tribute to the tracker employed by Jules and Izak, and to Arnold’s excellent PH and people skills, a team effort for which I am very appreciative. The lesson? When on a tight timeline, the right team at the right place is critical.

Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences Part 8

Written by Neil Harmse

 

Chapter 9. Concerning Snakes

 

One of the most frequent questions I am asked by people venturing into the bush on a trail or hunt is: ‘Do we have to worry about snakes?’ To be honest, there are snakes all over, even in suburban gardens, but they do their best to avoid contact with humans. Over the years I have spent in the bush, covering many miles on trails and hunts, my incidents and encounters with snakes have been relatively few and, as mentioned, these reptiles do their best to keep out of our way.

 

My first serious encounter was on a day in the late 1960s in the Waterberg. I was working on a geological survey and when it was almost midday, I decided to sit down and have a sandwich for lunch. I found a convenient tree log to park on while eating. I placed my field bag with my notebooks, maps and equipment on the ground with a bit of a thump, which must have disturbed the reptile – a yellow Cape cobra, which shot out from under the log. It was trying to get away, but as I jumped up, it turned and spat venom directly into my eyes. The snake then disappeared, and I was left squirming with excruciating pain, especially in my left eye, which had taken the most venom. Grabbing my water bottle, I rinsed my eyes, but this did not seem to help. I was about 2km from camp and, like a halfblind man, stumbled back to it. There was a Fitzsimmons snake-bite kit and I managed to use a vial of anti-venom serum, diluted with water, to rinse my eyes again. I then made my way to the farmhouse and phoned a doctor in Warmbaths, who suggested rinsing my eyes with milk and then coming through to him as soon as I could. After rinsing my eyes, the farmer drove me to the doctor for treatment. He flushed my eyes and then bandaged them, with instructions to keep them closed and out of sunlight for a day or two. After two days, the bandages were removed, and medicated drops prescribed. My left eye was still badly inflamed and had to remain covered for about a week. My eyesight eventually recovered, but to this day, I still have trouble with my left eye, especially in harsh light or while night driving with oncoming headlights.

 

Many years ago, in the early 1970s, I was doing some geological mapping in a very remote area in South West Africa (now Namibia). I was alone and had parked my Land Rover and 46 proceeded on foot towards some rocky outcrops, plotting and mapping as I went along. I had my field bag over my shoulder with my notebook, reference books, measuring tape and pens, and had my clipboard and geological pick in my hands.

 

Ahead was a large outcrop of sandstone with a high and vertical cliff face reaching above it. Suddenly a black mamba shot out from some scrub and sped away towards the cliff. It reached the cliff face and moved left and right, trying to find an escape route. Unable to find a gap, it then turned and came back directly at me. Now, the black mamba is one of the most dangerous, venomous and aggressive snakes in Africa, and definitely not a creature to take lightly. This one must have been about 3m long and seemed to be moving like lightning. All I could think of was that if it bit me, I had no hope and my body would not be found for weeks, maybe months. I simply froze! Not a movement. I think I had stopped breathing. The mamba shot past me, about half a metre away, at unbelievable speed and kept going, just wanting to get away. Had I moved or taken any aggressive action, it would have struck and I would not be writing these words.

 

Another snake incident was years later and concerned a Mozambique spitting cobra or

Mfezi.

 

My good friend and expert wildlife guide, John Locke and I were contracted by the North West Province Nature Conservation to conduct a training course for prospective rangers in the Borakalalo Reserve. One evening, John and I had a campfire going and I went to the bathroom to clean up. This facility was rather rustic, constructed of poles, reeds and thatch. Standing at the washbasin, I heard a strange, hissing noise emanating from beneath it. Looking down, I saw a large snake curled up on a ledge. Needless to say, I beat a hasty retreat, hoping that the snake would move away on its own if left undisturbed. After about an hour, John and I went to see whether the reptile had gone. As it was getting dark, we had torches to see better in the dark recesses of the facility. We saw no sign of the snake, so we went back to our campfire to get a few chops and sausages going.

 

While sitting and enjoying a drink and dinner, we heard a strange, swishing sound moving closer. Jumping up and flashing torches, we saw a large Mfezi or Mozambique spitting cobra making its way over the loose sand from the ablution block and heading directly towards our camp. The snake must have picked up our movements and swung off to the left, directly to my tent, where it slid under the groundsheet. There was no way I was going to sleep in the tent while the snake was sharing the same space, even if it was under the canvas sheet. Wanting to make it move, I went inside the tent with a broom to try to push it to the side and out, while John was on the outside with his torch trying to see which way it was moving. Eventually a terribly angry Mfezi shot out and sped up a tree, below which my Land Rover was parked. Not wanting the snake to get into the car, I drove it away and parked on the other side of the camp. After a very uneasy night, at sun-up we could see where it had slid from the tree and moved into the bushes away from camp. We could again breathe easily. Thankfully, we did not encounter the snake again for the remainder of our stay.

 

Once, on a walking trail in the Manyeleti, I was leading a family group when I heard the sound of a herd of elephant ahead of us. My old tracker, Petrus, with us. He was walking ahead, following the tracks. As usual, when we approached the herd, he moved back to see to the safety of the people in the event of us having to back away suddenly, should the matriarch or one of the cows become a bit nasty. A breeding herd is always unpredictable because of the cows with young calves and sometimes immature bulls within the herd. We were walking slowly along and I was concentrating fully on the elephants. As Petrus was passing me to move to the rear of the group, I felt him grab my jacket and pull me backwards. Astonished at this sudden move, I looked at him and he pointed down, in front of me. There, where I was about to put my foot, was a nasty-looking puff adder curled up, watching me with beady eyes.

 

I was saved from what could have been a very bad bite by Petrus’s sharp eyes and quick reaction. We watched the ‘puffy’ for a short while and then left it in peace, giving it a wide berth and carried on observing the elephant herd. Again, the snake was simply basking in the sun and not really aggressive, but this would have changed, had I put my foot on it. While involved with game control operations in the southern area along the Kruger National Park border, my family and I had a house on a large estate in the Malelane area. Early one morning, I heard a high-pitched screeching or squealing coming from somewhere at the front of the house. Grabbing my shotgun, I ran through the house and onto the enclosed veranda. There was a large mamba trying to grab a big frog, which was the cause of the high-pitched screech. Before I could fire a shot, the mamba turned and was gone, into a tree on the side of the house. I fired a few shots into the tree, but with no result. I could not see where the snake had disappeared to.

 

When I eventually returned to the porch, the frog was dead, obviously bitten by the mamba. My two children, six-year-old Janet and five-year-old Craig, were standing wide-eyed, watching the incident. The snake gone and the frog dead, I went to put the shotgun away and asked the children to fetch a spade, pick up the frog and throw it over the fence into the veld. Inside the house, while storing the shotgun, I suddenly heard loud screaming from the children and, grabbing the gun, ran back. The mamba had returned to collect its prey and as the children ran away, it turned to chase them. I had heard of this behaviour before, but had never experienced it. I once again grabbed the gun and as I came around the side of the house, I encountered the terrified children with the mamba in pursuit, going in the opposite direction. Without hesitation, I blasted the snake, almost in two halves, from the close-range shot of the shotgun. With children and dogs around the house, I was taking no chances sharing our home space with a reptile like that.

 

Over many years and many miles through the bush, I can honestly say that the encounters I have had with snakes have been few and far between. Snakes are generally less of a problem than people imagine and for the most part, given their instinct for survival, they will move out of your way and do their best to avoid contact with humans.

To order Campfire Thoughts & Reminiscences – the complete book with illustrations (US $15 excluding S&H), contact Andrew Meyer at andrewisikhova@icloud.com

Hurry up and “Wag n Bietjie”

A Kalahari Leopard 

By Ryan Phelan of Hotfire Safaris

 

 

Max was back! Back on his fourth adventure with Hotfire Safaris, this time in the vast Kalahari of Botswana. The quarry, a leopard.

 

We had ten days booked to search over a million acres of Kalahari in Unit KD6 for a majestic leopard, and we teamed up with good friend Adrian and his awesome hounds for the hunt.

The ‘Wag-n-Bietjie’ bush has small, black, hook-thorns that grab and hold you – the ‘wait-a-bit’ bush. Hurry up and wag-n-bietjie, aptly describes the ebb and flow of hunting leopard in the Kalahari bushveld. The highs and lows, the slow, frustrating nothing-happening periods suddenly broken by frantic, crazy, adrenalin-pumping action.

 

The planning and build-up was done, but the anticipation was heightened when we met Max at Johannesburg airport and set off on the road trip to Botswana. We were surprised during our drive to the camp to see the Kalahari transformed into a sea of long grass by an unusually wet season, when about a 1,000mm of rain had fallen. I feared that the odds had been heavily altered in favor of the quarry.

 

At the camp we settled around the fire with refreshments to discuss how the hunt would be conducted as this was a new type of adventure for Max. This hunt would be different from the normal leopard hunt where a bait is used to lure the cats. The wily Kalahari leopard in the KD6 area do not come to bait!

 

Adrian explained how his dogs operated, the different scenarios that could happen and how we would need to deal with each eventuality. He said that the scent-holding ability of the dry Kalahari sand is very low and makes it difficult for the dogs to work. It was therefore necessary for us to traverse the vast area by checking all the cut lines and sandy roads in an attempt to find the fresh tracks of a large male leopard. Trackers would then have to follow the track until we bumped the cat and the dogs could be released onto the fresh scent. The vehicles would follow as closely as possible for the safety of dogs, trackers, and hunters in the thick, thorny Kalahari bushveld.

 

Sounded easy at the time!

With plans all laid out and everyone understanding their roles during the hunt, we flattened a good, hearty Botswana beefsteak and turned in for the night. 

 

Day 1 started at first light, and the two vehicles went out in different directions to scout for fresh tracks. The KD6 area is loaded with predators of all types, from cheetah to wild dog, brown hyena to lynx, jackal, and the occasional wandering lion and, of course, leopards. So, scouting for leopard track was not as simple as it had sounded the previous evening.

 

Travel a short distance, stop, check the tracks. No, it’s brown hyena. Go, stop. No, it’s cheetah, and so on. I realised as we made our slow progress along the traverse, what a headache the numerous predators were for the local tribes folk living with their goats and cattle.

 

We had seen many different tracks when sunset brought Day 1 to a close, but the only fresh leopard track was a female. The traversing was, however, a good introduction to the area, conditions, and how the days would unfold.

 

Before daybreak on Day 2, we set out to look for tracks on a long cutline, which is a straight clear-cut line through the bushveld. We travelled about 280 kilometers, talked to some local villagers about leopard in their area without learning anything helpful, and found some decent leopard tracks that were, disappointingly, about two days old.

 

We were feeling very down when we got a call from the second vehicle informing us that they had picked up a fresh male leopard track some 60 kilometers away from our location. We hastily headed in their direction with revived enthusiasm and high expectations.

There we learned that the male leopard had killed a porcupine the evening before, rested, and then started moving again. The track looked good, but we only had about two and a half hours of daylight left when the 12 trackers eagerly got to work following the leopard tracks.

 

Tracking in a normal year in the Kalahari would be done by two to four trackers, but this year, because the incredible rains had resulted in a thick cover of long grass and crusted soil, a large team of highly skilled trackers was needed.

Tracking is slow going at the best of times, but it is incredible to watch these talented men methodically go about their work. They seem to understand the cat and see through its eyes, picking up on the slightest evidence of where it has moved in order to keep on following it. The pace quickened at times in more open areas and then ground to a halt when the track was lost. The group would then fan out, sometimes up to 400 meters apart and circle back, searching for a clue. A faint whistle in the distance would jolt the hunters parked in the shade of an acacia thorn tree, out of their daydreams. The track had been found, and off we would go again.

 

Hurry up and wait-a-bit.

 

When the giant red orb began descending in the western sky, we decided to GPS the spot and return the next morning to continue on the tracks. We were lucky to see a pack of wild dogs on our way back. A great sighting, but I pessimistically fretted that the wild dogs might push that leopard further and faster.

 

Later, after a few whiskeys and an incredible Botswana meat dish at a hot fire, we were off to bed after a hot shower to remove the Kalahari dust.

 

Day 3 was a cold start, a typical semi-desert chilly morning with a beautiful sunrise. It was back to the last GPS location and on with the tracking.

 

The day was long but when you walk with the trackers and see and learn from them, and try to understand what they are seeing, time passes quickly. We tracked the cat until dusk with only a short break for food and drinks during the peak heat of the day. Getting closer but still nowhere close enough to let the dogs loose.

 

We plotted the route of our two days’ tracking in the GPS and concluded that the cat was moving northwest in the direction of our camp, which was about 35 kilometers away. He was probably heading in that direction because of a higher concentration of wildlife attracted by the availability of water in the area around the camp. We did not know whether he would take a day to get there or make a kill en route and take longer, but we decided to look for his tracks in the vicinity of the camp over the next few days.

 

Needless to say, after that long day, a whiskey beckoned to settle the dust in the throat and boost the spirits again. 

Day 4. We started working outwards from camp in two directions and eventually we found a fresh cat track.

 

We could not decide whether or not it was the male leopard. We compared pictures and measurements of the various leopard tracks we had found. A leopard track in soft red sand pushes out to different dimensions compared with one on firmer sand. The debate raged on and by this point the dogs were baying for action, but we had to be careful. If we committed and released the dogs, there was no calling them off. We had to be sure of the size and sex of the leopard.

 

Finally, considering that it was only Day 4, we called it off on that track and headed for camp. The dogs would get their day!

 

Day 5. Dawn broke and we had mixed feelings; heightened concern about time whittling away, we were halfway through the hunt, as well as a strange sense that the big leopard was in the area, and this could be the day. 

 

Once again, we divided our forces to scour the dry sand roads for tracks. At 8.45 a.m.  a call came through from Patrick and Max. They had found a fresh track entering the area and fresh scat on the road. Adrian and I rushed to their area with the dogs to where the trackers were waiting, and confirmed that this was the leopard we were after, and off went the trackers. We were hopeful of catching the cat bedded up after a night hunting and feeding, as it was only 10.30 a.m.

 

The move and wait-a-bit scenario continued in the long grass throughout the day. The body language of the trackers soon started showing that things were heating-up. They even kicked into a jogtrot at times. 

 

We must have bumped the cat but not seen him at around 3.30 p.m. as evidenced by the lie-up area and running tracks. Things started to get real, and the pace quickened. The dogs in the vehicle also seemed to sense the presence of the cat, and started howling.

Suddenly, a tracker up front in the thick thorns shouted that he had caught a glimpse of the cat as it crossed a cut line. It was heading for some very thick stands of ‘wag n bietjie’ thorn bushes. Adrian let loose some of his front runner scent hounds and the chase was on. Trackers running, dogs baying, Land Cruiser trying to keep up, going over, round or through the thick bush.

 

The rest of the pack was set loose, and the intensity increased. The cat was smart and knew his terrain. He was running circle after circle losing the younger dogs, but the older ones were staying the course and then calling in the younger ones to join the fray. It became clear that this cat was not going to tree, and we realised that things could erupt at any second and then blind fury could come hurling out at us in a flash of spots.

 

We knew that the cat was getting tired and would soon make a stand but where, and would we see it. The sun was setting, eyes playing tricks, adrenalin playing havoc with the senses.

Then, at last shooting light, the dogs started consistently baying around a small grey bush and I realised that this was it.

 

‘Wait for my command! We don’t want a dog shot,’ I said to Max.

I spotted the head and neck of the cat. Max suddenly saw it as well and upped the shotgun.  ‘Don’t shoot, don’t shoot, the dogs are around it,’ I warned.

 

And then the cat lunged out at the dogs, causing them to back off slightly and a clear shooting lane opened up.

 

‘Sho..,’

 

Boom. Max was ready and dropped the hammer before I could finish the word. The cat spun around and took off for about 25 yards before crashing to the ground.

 

Just incredible, the sound of the dogs, the trackers elation, the dust in the air, dry throats, the palpable release of tension. It was done, and all were safe.

A clean kill.

 

A moment to remember for a thousand sunsets.

 

A few plains game animals were taken in the remaining days to round off an epic adventure.

 

A big thank you to Max and Hotfire Safaris yet again, as well as to Adrian and his hounds for making a joint success on this hunt.

 

A special dedication to Dutchess, a lovely young hound that was taken before her prime on this hunt. May she continue to run the scent in her star-life.

The community in KD6 were grateful that the animal that preyed on their livestock was down. They only tolerated the cats in their grazing land because of the benefit that the fees that the trophy tag world bring to them.

 

The success of organised hunting in community concessions was evident. The 15 local trackers and guides as well as all the camp staff had regular employment and thousands of dollars go into a trust for the community to build schools, drill boreholes for water, build clinics and other upliftment projects.

 

This model shows that, when animals have a value and the local community benefit from that value, the animals will be conserved even if there is a risk to domestic livestock. The model assures that only the old males will be taken, allowing the number of the species in that area to increase. Strict adherence to the limited tags for leopard in that vast area also shows that it is not about greed and more about sustainable utilization of our natural wildlife. 

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