Looking at Kenya

Written by Ian Batchelor

 

I was born in Kenya in 1965, a turbulent time in this part of Africa with the uneasy onset of the “winds of change” sweeping the continent, with all sorts of upheaval and uncertainty. Very few countries in Africa escaped this; some emerged pretty much unscathed, others today still bear the scars of this tumultuous change. Writers like Robert Ruark romanticised this time and period with novels like Horn of the Hunterand Uhuru, still two of my all-time favorite novels! Other classics and favorite reads that bring this period in Africa to life are the works of Izak Denisen, Bartle Bull’s Safari and Markham’s West with the Night to mention a few.

 

Kenya, too, went through its fair share of upheaval and growing pains, but it has put its hand up as one of the top safari and wildlife destinations on the continent. It certainly has the many famous and world-renowned areas like the Maasai Mara, Mount Kenya, the Aberdares, Tsavo, the Ngong Hills and Mau Forest, Lake Turkana (the Jade Sea) and then, of course, Amboseli at the foothills of Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain. Many of these unusual and distant names were made household names and put on the map by the early hunters and explorers that graced these inhospitable lands (the personalities and list is endless, from Stanley, Burton and Speke to “Karamoja Bell”, Finch-Hatton and Selous). They not only carved a name for themselves but for Kenya too. They created history, started the first safaris, and ventured into the most exciting and unexplored realms, giving birth to what Kenya truly is today, a spectacular land of wildlife, landscapes and tribal culture.  Many of Kenya’s tribes still live their lives relatively unchanged by man and the modern world, offering an insight into a bygone era of African myth and legend…the Masai, the Samburu, the Turkana, the Pokot…the list goes on!

Jumping to the present, I really believe that safari and travel to Africa through much of the last century was often seen as a type of fashion statement, something for the trendy and rich and famous! This was before Meryl Streep and Robert Redford brought Kenya and the era of safari travel alive again on the big screen with Out of Africa. The film was a massive hit, and even today I recommend it to would-be clients and prospective safari-goers. It truly embodies so many things about a very special place and a very special time.

 

A private safari to Kenya is a must for any keen traveler and wildlife enthusiast – it offers some of the greatest photographic opportunities in Africa, both wildlife and people. The land has so many varied landscapes and regions of natural beauty, some of the best coastline on the African continent, from world-class accommodations and facilities to the rugged semi-desert regions on Northern Kenya, inhabited by tribes that have not changed for hundreds of years. Some still warlike and proud, they have carved their own unique existence and niche in some rather inhospitable places. Other tribes are more approachable and amenable to tourists and visitor interaction. The Samburu and the Masai with their splendid, colorful “shukas” offer a wonderful distraction from game viewing and wildlife. This is one of the last places in Africa where one can have a truly interactive experience with the original native tribespeople in their natural state.

 

The beginning of any journey through Kenya starts with Nairobi, a city that is now one of Africa’s hubs. It bustles with life, color and sounds, and names like the Norfolk Hotel with the famous Lord Delamere room will ring bells. Today there is a myriad of choice and options. A particular favorite is The Giraffe Manor. This stylish and exclusive property offers something incredible unique. Whether dining or relaxing surrounded by Africa’s tallest mammals, it is not unusual for an inquisitive giraffe to put its head through the window and inspect one’s table!

If time permits, a visit to the Daphne Sheldrick Wildlife Orphanage is an inspiring and worthwhile way to spend some extra time in Nairobi.

 

The annual migration, or rather the “Great Migration” as it is more commonly referred to, meanders its way between Tanzania and Kenya in an endless cycle of movement and drama, from the birthing of the wildebeest calves on the short-grass plains of the Serengeti to the crossing of the Mara River into Kenya and the onset of the first rains. It is a miracle of nature, a magnificent and breathtaking journey, and something I believe everyone should try to see once in their lifetime at least. The Maasai Mara is wildlife-rich and possibly one of the greatest ecosystems and wildlife areas on the planet. It has diversity and beauty, teems with game, and has a rich make-up of predators. Lion, cheetah and leopard are all abundant, as are elephant and even black rhino in certain areas.

 

There are some wonderful safari combinations with the Maasai Mara, including conservancies to the north, such as Laikipia, Borana, Loisaba and Mugie, with sweeping views of the Aberdares and Mt Kenya (Africa’s second-highest mountain). These gems are now at the forefront of successful wildlife conservation. With community buy-in and support, they are leading the field in so many areas. Lewa is another conservancy that ranks among the best destinations on the continent, with many black and white rhino on the savanna plains. Other exciting wildlife areas in Kenya include Tsavo, the scene of the infamous man-eating lions at the turn of the last century.

Follow in the footsteps of those early adventurers and see for yourself. It will be a journey you will never forget!

Ian was born in Nakuru, Kenya in 1965. He spent the early years of his life in this incredible and varied land before his parents moved to Rhodesia, now Zimbabwe. Ian completed his schooling in Zimbabwe at Prince Edward High School for Boys before going to University where he attained an Honors Degree. He also spent a number of years in the South African Army in the 1980’s, part of a very interesting ‘life experience’ as he puts it!
Ian began his work in the safari industry in 1991, he started out as a trainee canoe guide on the Zambezi River and worked his way up through various positions and companies. He was a Game Ranger at a private reserve in South Africa and then went on to hold the Senior Guide position in a company in Malawi & Zambia. In 1996 Ian moved to Tanzania, initially managing an exclusive new safari camp and then later guiding private and exclusive safaris throughout Tanzania for a leading American owned company. He worked, lived and guided in east Africa for the next 14 years.
Ian is a qualified and experienced professional; holding both a PH and Professional Guide License in Zimbabwe and has a very strong conservation and wildlife centric background. A keen wildlife Photographer who loves to share his knowledge with his guests. Today he runs with his wife, Nonnie a successful safari operation, ‘Upmarket Safaris’ offering 50 odd years of combined experience – specializing in private guided journeys for the discerning traveler. They can be contacted at: ian@upmarketsafaris.net; nonnie@upmarketsafaris.net; www.upmarketsafaris.net

Second Generation Hunt

Written by Darby Wright

We had booked another full bag safari for 2021 with Simon and Kate Rodger’s Safaris de Moçambique. This concession borders Lake Cahora Bassa in Mozambique. My 27-year-old daughter would be the shooter, and her PH would be Brian Ellement, son of the well-known elephant hunter Mark Ellement from Zimbabwe. My son and I had hunted elephant with Mark about 20 years previously on a very successful hunt – we took a 58 lb tusker. We had met Brian and his sister during that hunt when they were about 10 years old, and now Brian was pushing 30! Mark has since passed on and is deeply missed.

 

We started off driving relentlessly searching for fresh buff tracks. After countless miles of driving and following buffs on foot, we were looking for a big, hard-bossed bull. Day after day we followed tracks until we made contact with herds of Dagga Boy groups. We would carefully maneuver, keeping the wind in our faces, crawling, sneaking, and trying to stay out of sight. KK had borrowed a .375 H&H and I had a .416 Rigby for backup.

Our Cruiser sunk to the axle trying to cross a sand river

Darby Wright with .375 H&H that Kayleigh Wright used on safari, .416 Remington used by Darby Wright for backup & .500 Jeffries used by PH Brian Ellement

Finally, after looking over quite a few buffs, Brian whispered that there was a very nice bull in a group. We kept shifting constantly, trying to get into position for a clear shot. The buffs were on the move, feeding into the wind with heavy brush all around them. I stayed back a few yards as KK and Brian moved into position. I saw the sticks come up and it seemed like forever before the shot went off. I was trying to video with my phone camera, and at the shot I jerked the phone, not getting any of the action on video. KK said the shot felt good and that she had been aiming low on the shoulder. Soon we heard the death bellow coming from about 150 yards away. The trackers started smiling and laughing and everyone was elated! We found this magnificent bull and he was a beauty! That night there would be a ‘Dindine’ (local term for a party) which included a full-blown celebration with sundowners, hors d’oeuvres and buff-tail soup.

 

We had gotten word that an agitated bull hippo had been harrassing fisherman, and one man had been severely injured while tending his nets. We loaded our gear into the Land Cruiser and headed out early the next day across the million-acre concession to investigate the situation. PHs are often responsible for eliminating problem animals, and upon our arrival several local fisherman ran up to our truck and in their native tongue told our trackers what had happened. The injured fisherman had been taken to a clinic but they weren’t sure he was going to make it. Those tusks are capable of causing horrendous injuries. We were never able to locate this aggressive hippo, so we decided to hunt the huge vegetation-choked lagoon for a trophy hippo.

Kayleigh Wright with leopard

Enjoying a nice bush lunch while out hunting

Sunset at Main Camp

After much searching we were able to find two hippo bulls completely out of the water sunning on a small island. However, they saw us and entered the water, heads bobbing up and down. We were all sitting on the ground glassing, and Brian set up the short sticks and told KK which one to shoot when comfortable. The .375 barked. “Great shot!” said Brian. He had seen the 110 yard shot connect through his binos. A search party was sent out in a dugout canoe to tow in the hippo once it floated, and when near the shore, we used the Land Cruiser to pull the 6,000 lb beast from the water. All the meat was given to the fishing village, and the excited villagers were thankful for fresh protein.

 

KK had leopard on license, so we set out to shoot several impala rams for bait. At 350 dollars each, that’s some expensive cat food! We hung five baits in likely-looking areas and checked them every day. One bait site was within a mile of camp, and bait number three was heavily fed on with big paw prints around it. We needed a fresh impala bait. A blind was built, and KK and Brian entered it about 4:00 p.m. while I waited in camp.

 

At 8:30 the driver came to tell me he was sure they had got the leopard, so we headed straight to the blind. Brian and the trackers searched with flashlights. KK and I waied in the blind. Suddenly, “KK come see your leopard,” shouted Brian. WOW! Now everyone was fired up. This had been a fantastic leopard hunt! We had another ‘Dindine’, a cat celebration like none other.

 

Meantime, a buff ribcage, hide and hooves, a bunch of mummified impala carcasses from leftover recycled leopard baits, and a horrendously rank hippo leg left over from a previous lion safari, were all transformed into croc baits. It took a few days of wiring and chaining these baits in prime spots. The hippo leg was taken to a peninsula, and when we snuck in the following day to check for crocs, some dinosaur had broken the thick wiring and the chain which held the hippo leg! It was a windy day, so we decided to use our boat to search for a big croc.

We glassed a lot of shorelines and coves. At one point Brian got out of the boat and walked across a peninsula to take a look at the other side. He came running back to the boat, waving for us to grab the gun and sticks and make it quick! KK and Brian led, then they began belly-crawling for a closer shot. I could see the monster croc lying half in and half out of the water, quartering to the right. He was enormous with a huge head and wide body. Brian had KK on the short sticks and it didn’t take long for the .375 to go off. BOOM! The bullet entered forwards into the back of the skull, and after several insurance shots taken for good measure, it was over.

 

This was a huge old croc. The dindine celebration would last well into the night. Drinks and cold beers would be flowing! This Second Generation hunt was an especially memorable safari – hunting with Mark Ellement’s son Brian, and Kayleigh.

 

Those memories will last forever.

PH Brian Ellement with big vundu, CPR (Catch Photograph Release)

Darby Wright lives in New Braunfels, Texas. After 36 years of owning and running a Fire and Water Damage Restoration Company, he now enjoys his time off hunting and fishing in Costa Rica, Mexico, Australia, Argentina, Canada, Alaska, Zambia, Namibia, South Africa, Zimbabwe and Mozambique. He and his family are always ready for the next adventure.

January 2022 Newsletter

The great migration… To the Conventions…

January is the start of what many refer to as Convention Season. The time to wave the African hunting flag. Long flights, many shows, house parties, fund-raiser events and, of course, the major expos – the two big ones being DSC and SCI. It’s a proud time, an annual rendezvous with many familiar faces and, hopefully, meeting many more new ones. But for how long is this model “sustainable” – a word the industry seems quick to use in justifying its existence. The costs are prohibitive and favor the large vendors, or those selling highly priced items. I am not sure that if you were a standalone outfitter, like those of 40 years back, the original backbone of the shows, that you would make it now. Here’s an analogy: It was reported this past year that the wildebeest tended to remain in Tanzania – lack of good grazing so migrating elsewhere was not worth the move. Kenya saw fewer animal numbers. Could be a pure coincidence? Things are definitely changing.

Richard Leakey (1944-2022) – Conservation Hero or Zero?

One of Africa’s most colourful conservation personalities passed away on 2 January 2022 having lived a full life: “But what a life he had: in a career spanning more than half a century Leakey transformed himself from a fossil hunter, who became a bestselling author and television star – and made a seminal documentary on human evolution for the BBC – to a pioneering conservationist with the hide of a rhinoceros.”

 

The quotation above comes from Graham Boynton’s tribute in the Daily Mail where he also describes him as “The fearless fossil hunter who saved Africa’s living treasures: TV star, ladies’ man… and a swashbuckling adventurer who lost his legs in a plane crash. Richard Leakey – who has died at 77 – was like a real-life Wilbur Smith hero.”

Renowned Kenyan palaeontologists, Louis and Mary Leakey, had three sons who grew up in Nairobi, where they attended the private Duke of York School. Jonathan, the eldest, Richard, and Philip, the youngest, spent their holidays with their parents on paleontological digs around Lake Victoria and Olduvai Gorge in Tanzania.

 

Richard and his brothers lived in tents in the bush, became fluent in Swahili, and spent nearly all of their time with the black workers on their parents’ field expeditions. Philip was quoted as saying, “We were different. We grew up in an environment where our father was considered far more African than European. We were misfits among our white peers because we identified more with all Kenyans than they did.”

After leaving school, Richard started doing his own fossil-hunting, and in 1964, at the age of 19, he discovered a 1.4 million year old human jawbone on his first independent dig, at Lake Natron in Tanzania. He decided not to go to university and instead pursued palaeontology as an independent researcher. In 1968 he received a $25,000 National Geographic Society grant to work on the eastern shore of Lake Turkana. Three years later he achieved global prominence when his team unearthed a well-preserved 1.9 million year old skull of Homo habilis, an early hominid first discovered by his parents.

 

Graham Boynton: “In two books written with science writer Roger Lewin – Origins (1977) and People Of The Lake (1978) – Leakey argued that his discovery proved that Homo habilis evolved into Homo erectus, the direct ancestor of Homo sapiens, or modern human beings. His find saw him ending up on the cover of Time magazine and becoming something of a cult figure, the first pop paleo”.

 

Although the scientific establishment regarded him as an upstart, Leakey was undeterred. Origins became a best-seller that introduced ‘palaeoanthropology’ to a broad audience. In 1980 he produced The Making Of Mankind, a major BBC documentary about human evolution, viewed by millions of people.

 

During the 1970s and 1980s, Leakey cemented his standing as a Kenyan patriot, both as chairman of the East African Wildlife Society, and as head of the government-run Kenya Museums. His tenure at the EAWS came under criticism as poaching, particularly of elephants, started becoming a serious issue, and yet the Society made little or no effort to bring this growing crisis to the attention of the world. His critics said Leakey was too loyal to the Kenyan government to rock the boat.

 

Kenya’s President, Daniel Arap Moi, finally took action in 1986, by which time the elephant population had declines by 85% and tourism to his country started to dry up [it was widely alleged that members of the President’s family were deeply involved in the ivory business]. Moi appointed Leakey to take over the running of 52 parks by the organization that would in 1990 be consolidated as the Kenya Wildlife Service. By this time most of the parks were being decimated by poachers.

 

“That Leakey arrested the decline and set up an outstanding conservation and policing programme is now a matter of public record. How he did it – by turning the KWS into a paramilitary unit, hunting down the poaching gangs and introducing a highly controversial shoot-to-kill policy – reads like a 20th-century African thriller.” writes Boynton.

 

Leakey raised millions of dollars for the KWS both from foreign government grants and from the animal rights movement, who applauded his success in combatting the elephant poaching in Kenya. But he made a lot of enemies in the process, where he was seen as setting up his own empire or ‘parallel government’, and he also became involved in conflicts with Maasai leaders over wildlife issues. Outside Kenya, he annoyed the southern African conservation community, where wildlife utilisation policies and hunting were espoused by many governments.

 

The southern Africans were particularly outraged when Leakey staged a massive publicity stunt by burning at least three million US dollars’ worth of ivory and rhino horn, an event specifically aimed at prime-time television audiences in the USA. This act was followed by several more in different countries, often generously funded by the animal rights movement. The southern Africans said this sent a signal to Africans that their wildlife was of no financial value, whereas those countries in which wildlife utilization through game ranching, wildlife harvesting, and hunting were showing that wildlife could successfully compete with livestock and crop-farming, thus making biodiversity conservation more viable.

 

On June 2, 1993, Leakey and four passengers took off from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport for a trip to Lake Naivasha in his Cessna 206, a personal gift from a wealthy American businessman. The engine quit shortly after take-off, and the plane crashed into the bush. The passengers were unhurt but the engine crushed both Leakey’s legs below the knees. After unsuccessful treatment in a Nairobi hospital, he was flown to England, where both legs were amputated.

 

In October 1993 Leakey returned to Kenya on artificial limbs, to find that in his absence his adversaries had moved against him and KWS was in disarray. He had made enemies in government by his management style and by flaunting his wealth – because of generous donor funds, his KWS senior staff earned far more than other public servants, and this caused jealousy and an opportunity to put a knife into his back. After first resigning, then being re-appointed, Leakey finally turned his back on the KWS.

 

So was Richard Leakey a conservation hero or a zero? I met him at an elephant conference in Nairobi in 1990, and again a few years later in Cape Town. He was a nice enough fellow in public, but he could be quite guileful in choosing his words to suit his audience. He befriended Dr Robbie Robinson, then Head of the South African National Parks, and elephant culling in the Kruger National Park was stopped. Currently this flagship of South African conservation is fast approaching the inevitable situation of too many elephants, with the looming impact of biodiversity loss.

 

Kenya’s continued wildlife policies of non-utilization and a ban on hunting have created a rift in relations with the southern African states, and Kenya’s wildlife populations are currently in decline. In the time that Namibia’s wildlife increased from about half a million head to 2 million (from about 1970 to present day), Kenya’s wildlife declined from about 1.5 million to half a million. The animal rights movement is relentless in its attempts to belittle Namibia’s community conservation success story, which includes hunting in its suite of wildlife management policies. The animal rights movement lauded Richard Leakey and showered him with financial largesse. At the end of the day, the welfare of wildlife, biodiversity and rural communities will be a true measure of his legacy.

Dr John Ledger is a past Director of the Endangered Wildlife Trust, now a consultant, writer and teacher on the environment, energy and wildlife; he is a columnist for the African Hunting Gazette. He lives in Johannesburg, South Africa. John.Ledger@wol.co.za

Classic African Hunting Literature: Chui!: A Guide to Hunting the African Leopard

Written by Lou Hallamore and Bruce Woods (Trophy Room Books, 2011, 238 pages.) Review by Ken Bailey

With few exceptions, African literature has generally been intended to allow the reader to live vicariously through the words and experiences of the author. As readers we’re inspired by thrilling tales of hunting adventure, and often it’s those stories that compel us to visit Africa for the first time. Once we go there, of course, we’re hooked, and African hunting literature helps quell our thirst for Africa until we can return.

Chui!: A Guide to Hunting the African Leopard is not like most African literature, but then, leopards are not like any other African game animal. There is a science to hunting leopards that is unrivalled by that of any other species. Leopard hunting is not a tracker’s game, as is the case for elephant, Cape buffalo, lion (often) and most of the antelope species. Certainly, finding and identifying tracks is part of the leopard hunting experience, but once you’ve identified a prospective leopard to hunt, it becomes a tactician’s game. A chess match of the man against beast variety. And there is arguably no better tactician hunting leopard today than Zimbabwe’s Lou Hallamore.

Leopard hunting is characterized by interminably long, often fruitless, waits over bait. It’s a game of patience, and for those accustomed to shooting two or three species a day, it can be an agonizing experience. In part, that’s because, as visiting hunters, most often with little or no previous leopard hunting experience, we really don’t understand the complexities of the strategies at play. And leopard hunting, as with almost any other activity, is a whole lot more interesting and enjoyable when you know what the hell is going on. In this regard, Chui! serves as a textbook and reference source that will help you understand the many nuances that are part of a leopard hunting game plan. That understanding, in turn, will help make leopard hunting infinitely more rewarding.

Hallamore has been hunting leopards for more than 40 years. That adds up to a lot of lessons, many, if not most, learned the hard way. In Chui! he reveals all the tricks, tactics and secrets he’s accumulated on the trail of leopards across those decades. For readers, and wannabe leopard hunters, this book offers a detailed education as to what you can expect when pursuing your leopard and, more importantly, why your PH is doing what he’s doing to help you go home with that cherished rug.

Individual chapters are dedicated to the importance of selecting the right bait, hanging it, locating and building a blind, blind techniques and equipment, PhD-level tactics for problem cats, dealing with wounded leopards, and how to handle the hide to ensure your trophy arrives home as you imagined it would. Nowhere else is this level of leopard hunting know-how found within the covers of one book, and reading it, and knowing it, will go a long way toward helping you become more than just the trigger man in the grand scheme. Becoming more engaged in the whole process goes a long way in getting through those inevitably long hours in the blind, and help you come to grips with what went wrong on those too-frequent occasions when leopard hunts aren’t successful.

Of course, no leopard book would be complete without at least a few harrowing tales of man-eating leopards and hunts gone wrong, and Hallamore and Woods include some decidedly hair-raising accounts. Chui! is also liberally illustrated with images and sketches that enhance the reading and learning experience.

If you’re interested in hunting Africa, undoubtedly a leopard is on your “must do” list of game. I can think of no better preparation for that experience than reading Chui! from cover to cover. And then reading it again. There will be test one day, and you’d best be prepared!

On Safari in Africa with Charles Price

I was born in Queenstown in 1967 and grew up on the farm, Bowers Hope, in the Tarkastad district.

My father, Murray Price, pioneered the hunting business in the Eastern Cape, with the first clients arriving in 1963. As children we were to be seen and not heard, so we used to hide under the table to listen to all the hunting stories passed around between legendary hunters from across the globe. That must have been the early influence resulting in my hunting career!

I grew up in the field in the Eastern Cape, mainly on our fifth generation-owned land, with my father and various PHs and trackers who taught me through experience. I learnt many things in my career, and one of these was to be more patient during the hunt and to wait for the best trophy we could get.

I currently hunt in the Eastern Cape on our fifth generation-owned and conserved property, as well as on one of the largest hunting concessions in the Northern Cape where the pristine land has been rehabilitated and managed to be the ultimate hunting area in Southern Africa.

Other countries I have hunted were Zimbabwe, Botswana, Namibia, and Cameroon. In my time I have been in some amusing situations. One I remember in particular was a gemsbok charge when I was with an F16 pilot who had been shot down over Bosnia and lived to tell the tale. The gemsbok was wounded and charged us, and the client ended up shooting it from two yards. We laughed over a beer later, picturing him surviving Bosnia and ending up being killed by a charging gemsbok – imagine the headlines! On another occasion, but not funny, was I nearly being taken out by a buffalo in the Charisa area close to camp.

A very special memory is of one of the most interesting and challenging hunts I have had, hunting with a family with an autistic child. Watching him grow and open up during the safari as he gained in confidence and an attachment to me, touched everyone deeply, especially the parents, seeing their child come alive.

Another memorable hunt was with a client who came on a 30-day safari to hunt the Big Five, having very had very little hunting experience. He was high on testosterone shots and various other drugs. After he ran out of marijuana, we ground up elephant dung in desperation and gave it to him to smoke as a joke! When he realised it wasn’t the real stuff, he completely lost it! But we had a good laugh about it later around the fire.

We also had our share of disasters. We had a group of elderly clients travel to us all the way from Canada, and upon arrival one of the ladies fell down a step and broke her hip. She had to be transported by ambulance to East London for surgery, and they ended up staying with us for a month recovering. They were very gracious about it, as it put an end to their safari.

And a close brush with death was in a recent buffalo hunt where the client wounded it and my son, Grant, finished it off as it was charging, and it landed on top of the cameraman!

My weapon of choice as back-up for dangerous or wounded game is the .458 and I recommend the .300

.300 Win Mag with 180 grain for plains game, and the .458 for dangerous game. And if clients want to improve their safari experience, I suggest they give themselves sufficient time beforehand and practice shooting off sticks as well as getting as fit as possible.

The best trophy animal one of my clients ever took was a 48 inch buffalo, though my favorite animal to hunt is the Vaal rhebok, as they are such beautiful, rare animals that always produce a challenging hunt in the mountains.

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